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James H

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About James H

  • Birthday 02/26/1970

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    www.modelshipworld.com

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Anderton, Lancashire, UK
  • Interests
    Foreign food, travel in general, modelling in timber and plastics, photography and guitar playing.

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  1. These tend to be the thicker sheets. Use of multi-axis CNC is used to create parts that would be more challenging to produce from plan sheets showing various profiles.
  2. I did say a number of the CNC-milled parts were packaged separately, and here they are. These parts generally have more work on them by means of a multi-axis approach, shaping some quite complicated parts and taking the guesswork out of trying to visually fathom parts from multiple profile drawings. CAF seem to use a lot of lost wax casting for their brass fittings, and the production is very good indeed. You will of course need to clip the parts from the sprues, and then file away any remnant of the connection point. Here you can see the variety of brass parts included. Wooden rigging blocks are included for the cannon, and the rigging cord appears to be a decent quality too, with no fuzziness. Individual brass sheaves are also included for those machined bitts, and wire to mount them. Cannon! The photo actually doesn't show these in their best light. They are very well made, complete with crests. Photo Etch. This is the strip and dowel timber supplied. The big bungle consists of many strips, and all timber is nicely cut with no bad edges, ends or splits. INSTRUCTIONS Readers are best taking a look at the link I previously posted, which will give you a look at the whole manual. Here are a few sample images though. The final set, Pack 6, will follow in a week or so.
  3. PACK 5 This pack isn't optional. It's very much needed for this project. Not only that, but I'm very confident that this is the heaviest of all the packs in this set. Some stats for you; there are almost SIXTY sheets of laser-cut parts. There are also about TWELVE spare sheets of CNC routed parts that occupy the regular pack of timber sheets. In addition to that, there are also TEN individually bagged CNC-shaped parts, including bitts and capstans. Also included is rigging cord, lost-wax brass castings, wooden rigging blocks and wire. A pack of strip wood, large sheet of PE, brass cannon, manual and plans complete this very detailed pack. Laser cutting, again, is very good, and rear scorching will be easy to remove. For all of these sheets, I would give both sides a sanding in fine and then superfine grit paper so get the best out of the cherry wood utilised in the kit. This is something I tend to do so that the timber colour shows through nicely and any resins released by the cutting process, are removed. Tom has made sure that the sheets are as uniform in colour as you can get from a natural product. Part sheets are numbered and those numbers are to be cross-checked against the parts maps supplied in the rear of the instruction manual. As shown in a previous post, there is some debris which needs removing from the milled parts sheets, but the parts themselves are perfectly good and won't need much more than regular clean up before use. Timber elements here include deck beams, furniture, partitions, gratings, deck planking etc. This comprehensive pack is best explained by taking a look at the manual itself, provided by CAF. While I include some photos in the next post, you can preview this pack by clicking THIS link. Continued....
  4. We've had a small number of members like that. They persisted in their arrogance, and they are now gone, being arrogant elsewhere.
  5. I don't know of a UK supplier any more. There used to be Modelling Timbers, but alas Keith has. now sadly passed. I can vouch for Hobbymill.eu. Their quality and cutting is superb and they're very reliable. @Wahka_est
  6. Sort of. We came up with those skill levels as the more advanced kits still need the modeller to be able to think stages ahead and work that into their planning, irrespective of each of those subsequent photos being detailed. We ALWAYS suggest that anyone tackling a kit like Indefatigable, will be familiar with various building techniques through previous projects. That has to be our caveat. Much depends not only on previous experience, but also success. Of course, some modellers are absolute naturals and can build relatively complex models on their first foray, but many also fail to complete, or have a low level of success. If you go ahead and try Indy, then take your time and ask questions. Chris Watton is a member here, and I'm the guy who built that model for the instruction manual.
  7. Depending on where you are located, buying in chapters helps to negate import duty due to breaking down into smaller consignments.
  8. I don't do them as I'm absolutely crap at figure painting. Doing the ones for Surprise was through necessity only.
  9. I like to use Plastikote matt white for a finish coat.
  10. If you ever lose any pegs, just cut them from the sheet yourself? That's what I inevitably do if I lose any while building the prototypes.
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