James H

Brass chain - various sizes
Artscale

 
The good folks at Artscale have sent me a few samples of their new brass chain. The samples sent are:
 
Gross - €3,00 Coarse - €3,00 Medium - €3,00 Fine - €3,00  
All chain is provided on metal spools, in 0.5 metre lengths. Each spool is packed into a clear sleeve with a product information insert. The insert is useful as it provides dimensional detail for the chain links. It's very difficult to actually review chain, so this article serves as a guide as to the size of this product and it's suitability to your own project(s). I can tell you that the chain quality is very good and will certainly find its use in my future project work. 
 
Chain isn't something many of us actively seek out, so here's a handy article for you to bookmark, if you need to buy something specific. Check out each link for the sizes above and you'll be taken directly to the product page.




My sincere thanks to Artscale for providing these samples to be published here at Model Ship World. Head over to their site for this and many other goodies (including coffee!)
 
 

I’ve asked, but I don’t think it’s coated, so should be easy enough to blacken. I’ll try with a test piece shortly. 

Brass chain - various sizes
Artscale

 
The good folks at Artscale have sent me a few samples of their new brass chain. The samples sent are:
 
Gross - €3,00 Coarse - €3,00 Medium - €3,00 Fine - €3,00  
All chain is provided on metal spools, in 0.5 metre lengths. Each spool is packed into a clear sleeve with a product information insert. The insert is useful as it provides dimensional detail for the chain links. It's very difficult to actually review chain, so this article serves as a guide as to the size of this product and it's suitability to your own project(s). I can tell you that the chain quality is very good and will certainly find its use in my future project work. 
 
Chain isn't something many of us actively seek out, so here's a handy article for you to bookmark, if you need to buy something specific. Check out each link for the sizes above and you'll be taken directly to the product page.




My sincere thanks to Artscale for providing these samples to be published here at Model Ship World. Head over to their site for this and many other goodies (including coffee!)
 
 

Brass chain - various sizes
Artscale

 
The good folks at Artscale have sent me a few samples of their new brass chain. The samples sent are:
 
Gross - €3,00 Coarse - €3,00 Medium - €3,00 Fine - €3,00  
All chain is provided on metal spools, in 0.5 metre lengths. Each spool is packed into a clear sleeve with a product information insert. The insert is useful as it provides dimensional detail for the chain links. It's very difficult to actually review chain, so this article serves as a guide as to the size of this product and it's suitability to your own project(s). I can tell you that the chain quality is very good and will certainly find its use in my future project work. 
 
Chain isn't something many of us actively seek out, so here's a handy article for you to bookmark, if you need to buy something specific. Check out each link for the sizes above and you'll be taken directly to the product page.




My sincere thanks to Artscale for providing these samples to be published here at Model Ship World. Head over to their site for this and many other goodies (including coffee!)
 
 

Brass chain - various sizes
Artscale

 
The good folks at Artscale have sent me a few samples of their new brass chain. The samples sent are:
 
Gross - €3,00 Coarse - €3,00 Medium - €3,00 Fine - €3,00  
All chain is provided on metal spools, in 0.5 metre lengths. Each spool is packed into a clear sleeve with a product information insert. The insert is useful as it provides dimensional detail for the chain links. It's very difficult to actually review chain, so this article serves as a guide as to the size of this product and it's suitability to your own project(s). I can tell you that the chain quality is very good and will certainly find its use in my future project work. 
 
Chain isn't something many of us actively seek out, so here's a handy article for you to bookmark, if you need to buy something specific. Check out each link for the sizes above and you'll be taken directly to the product page.




My sincere thanks to Artscale for providing these samples to be published here at Model Ship World. Head over to their site for this and many other goodies (including coffee!)
 
 

Cheers guys. Of course, the Cobra is still being built in another topic, and that's now halfway through.
 
BUT....HMS Sphinx begins this week, and that's where the lion's share of my time will be spent.

STAGE 99: REAR VALANCE, FOG LIGHTS & CONNECTING THE BODY TO THE CHASSIS & 
STAGE 100: REAR BUMPER, FRONT & REAR LICENSE PLATES

The rear valance is now fitted with fog lights. I also fit the reg plate from stage 100 too. 

Before the body can be fitted to the chassis, all the wiring is finally connected and batteries inserted into the engine compartment to check that all is ok.  Fitting the body took me quite a bit of time in making sure all lugs and holes were in alignment, and also that all cables were safe from being trapped. That aerial is also most at risk here when you turn the car over.

You might notice no rear wheels in this picture. That's because I broke the rear axle as mentioned at the start, and I decided it safest to fit the wheels last, prior to turning the car the right way round. The valence is now fitted and the number added. I also screw the front reg plate into position. 


 
 
All done!!!!!!!!







 
Conclusion
A lovely project that will doubtless be much loved by any petrol head or Shelby fan. The details are superb and the size of this means it's no shrinking violet. You'll need a nice care to display it, and also a strong shelf! All electronics worked as they should, from the engine sounds, to horn, rear lights and front lights. A year's worth of work is finally at an end and my bench will certainly look different with this now gone from it.

Just a quick update before I take a short break to start work on Sphinx (next week).
I'll be splitting my time for this, but will glue and make a few parts while I'm waiting on Sphinx stuff to dry etc. Nonetheless, my priority is Sphinx as you'll want to see it released as soon as possible.
 
For Granado, this is roughly where I'm currently at. On the side which will be exposed frame-wise, I added treenails. My intention was to drill and use black monofilament for these, but I got sick of breaking drill bits, trying to get inside the curve. I then decided to use a jeweller's beading tool to make an impression with a rounded head in the centre. A soft pencil was then used to colour the indent, and any excess removed with an eraser. The keel was then slotted into the jig and the double frames carefully glued onto the keel. I spent a few evenings doing this to make sure it was right and everything was level. A few slivers of wood were pushed into places to ensure an even gap between frames, whilst things dried.

 
Clamps were used to hold the upper timbers in position against each other.

 
The keelson is made from two parts, perfectly fitting, as seen here.

 
I have started to build the riders and their ribs, but I've now stopped work as I highlighted an error to Tom at CAF. The side floor timbers are supposed to be slotted on the underside. This is because some of the internal timbers run through those slots, and they are needed so those planks can be located in the hull. Those timbers are missing those slots, and Tom is now aware and remaking those to send out to customers. 
 
I have, however, glued the keelson into the hull, and you'll see that image next time.

Cheers guys. Of course, the Cobra is still being built in another topic, and that's now halfway through.
 
BUT....HMS Sphinx begins this week, and that's where the lion's share of my time will be spent.

STAGE 99: REAR VALANCE, FOG LIGHTS & CONNECTING THE BODY TO THE CHASSIS & 
STAGE 100: REAR BUMPER, FRONT & REAR LICENSE PLATES

The rear valance is now fitted with fog lights. I also fit the reg plate from stage 100 too. 

Before the body can be fitted to the chassis, all the wiring is finally connected and batteries inserted into the engine compartment to check that all is ok.  Fitting the body took me quite a bit of time in making sure all lugs and holes were in alignment, and also that all cables were safe from being trapped. That aerial is also most at risk here when you turn the car over.

You might notice no rear wheels in this picture. That's because I broke the rear axle as mentioned at the start, and I decided it safest to fit the wheels last, prior to turning the car the right way round. The valence is now fitted and the number added. I also screw the front reg plate into position. 


 
 
All done!!!!!!!!







 
Conclusion
A lovely project that will doubtless be much loved by any petrol head or Shelby fan. The details are superb and the size of this means it's no shrinking violet. You'll need a nice care to display it, and also a strong shelf! All electronics worked as they should, from the engine sounds, to horn, rear lights and front lights. A year's worth of work is finally at an end and my bench will certainly look different with this now gone from it.

STAGE 98: SUN VISORS & REAR VIEW MIRROR

The liner is now fitted with the sun shields and rear view mirror. 



The liner itself now just pushes into place with no problems. 

The aerial is perhaps the only real puzzling part for me. This should've ideally been a push fit for the last item added, but instead it needs to be screwed into the underside of the body before you can fit it, providing a hazard from this point on as you work on the model. Take care with that aerial!

 

STAGE 97: HEADLINER

Even though you get the liner, you can't fit it yet. Instead, both doors are fitted. Make sure these are nice and tight. They should also face a little resistance when pushed fully closed, giving them a positive close-fit.


 

STAGE 96: DOOR TRIM AND SILL PLATES

Those sparse door entry points need prettying up, so these trims and sills are now added. These just push into place with zero fuss on both driver and passenger side.


 

STAGE 93: UPPER VENT GRILLE STAGE 94: REAR WINDOW

The windshield wipers from the previous stage are now screwed into position on the upper vent grille, and the panel slid into place on the body, then screwed into position. 





 
 
STAGE 94: REAR WINDOW & STAGE 95: REAR WINDOW FRAME & RADIO ANTENNA

You know the drill! Both rear window and frame fit nicely into position with ease.



 
 

Pack 12
This is it folks....the final work on this behemoth, and the finished result is VERY heavy and impressive. I've had a snag along the way that delayed me posting this. When you manoeuvre your car around, DO NOT put the weight of the model on any of the back wheels. I did that and snapped the wheel fixing point of the rear axle. You live and learn, and it was so frustrating. 
 
STAGE 91: WINDSHIELD & STAGE 92: WINDSHIELD FRAME AND WIPERS

Real care needs to be taken not to touch the main clear area of the windscreen, for obvious reasons. Thankfully, this just sits neatly in place with zero effort, and the windshield frame locks it into position with a few clicks. 


 
 

Cheers guys. Of course, the Cobra is still being built in another topic, and that's now halfway through.
 
BUT....HMS Sphinx begins this week, and that's where the lion's share of my time will be spent.

Cheers guys. Of course, the Cobra is still being built in another topic, and that's now halfway through.
 
BUT....HMS Sphinx begins this week, and that's where the lion's share of my time will be spent.

STAGE 99: REAR VALANCE, FOG LIGHTS & CONNECTING THE BODY TO THE CHASSIS & 
STAGE 100: REAR BUMPER, FRONT & REAR LICENSE PLATES

The rear valance is now fitted with fog lights. I also fit the reg plate from stage 100 too. 

Before the body can be fitted to the chassis, all the wiring is finally connected and batteries inserted into the engine compartment to check that all is ok.  Fitting the body took me quite a bit of time in making sure all lugs and holes were in alignment, and also that all cables were safe from being trapped. That aerial is also most at risk here when you turn the car over.

You might notice no rear wheels in this picture. That's because I broke the rear axle as mentioned at the start, and I decided it safest to fit the wheels last, prior to turning the car the right way round. The valence is now fitted and the number added. I also screw the front reg plate into position. 


 
 
All done!!!!!!!!







 
Conclusion
A lovely project that will doubtless be much loved by any petrol head or Shelby fan. The details are superb and the size of this means it's no shrinking violet. You'll need a nice care to display it, and also a strong shelf! All electronics worked as they should, from the engine sounds, to horn, rear lights and front lights. A year's worth of work is finally at an end and my bench will certainly look different with this now gone from it.

Pack 10
Well, we are definitely creeping close to the finish line after this package, and this one comes in a reasonably large and heavy box due the inclusion of the fenders. As she sits now, this is one imposing model. Agora have left a teaser too with the fenders not being fitted during Pack 10, but presumably waiting for next month until we can see things coming together for the exterior. And with this pack...we have wiring! Not sure what battery this will use though. 
 
STAGE 74: DISTRIBUTOR, SPARK PLUG WIRE AND OIL PAN

 

 
The ignition coil is built from three parts which just push fit together. No glue needed here at all. The same goes for mounting it to the engine, and it will only fit one way too.

 

 
Plumbing the engine issues quite therapeutic and the suggested sequence of plumbing works well too. The vinyl hose needs to be cut to different lengths before being connected between the distributor and the main body. Everything is nicely colour coded in the instructions, so it's very hard to get wrong. I did use a little spot of CA between the hose/wire and the spark plug connectors as they did come off fairly easy. The oil pan was also fitted, though in hindsight, it would have been easier fitting that before the spark lines. 

 

 
The beast can now be mounted into the chassis. For this, there's only two screws, but as the engine compartment builds up, everything becomes real sturdy. 

 
 
 
STAGE 75: SIDE PANEL AND FRONT RIGHT SHOCK ABSORBER

 

 
The right hand shock absorber piston is fastened to the car by means of another serrated pin. The radiator is now fastened to the side panel, and the piston body itself now screws to the outside of the right side panel. Onto the latter slides the shock absorber spring and then the whole unit is carefully lowered into position so the piston fits to the piston body. A little tricky, but not too difficult. Two screws hold the side panel securely in place. 

 

 

 
 
 
STAGE 76: ENGINE CENTRAL PANEL, PUMP AND BRAKE FLUID RESERVOIR

 

 
This one is dead simple. The brake fluid reservoir is push fitted to the support snd the completed assembly screwed to the right hand engine bay wall. Care is needed not to trap any cabling under this wall, and the side screws mean you'll need to manipulate some of the surrounding parts to be able to get a clear shot. 

 

 
 
 
STAGE 77: FRONT LEFT PANEL, SPEAKER AND SUSPENSION

 

 
It's now the turn of the left hand engine bay wall too be fitted. This is done in the same way as the first except the speaker needs to be fitted first and the retainer/support screwed into place to trap it. Care needs to be taken to ensure the wires flow from the recess properly.

 

 
 
 
STAGE 78: BATTERY, STRUT BAR, WATER PUMP AND PIPES

 

 
Almost everything in this pack is a push fit. The handle is first attached to the battery with the only screws to be used here. This needs to be a sold fit as the battery lifts out to reveal the actual battery pack for the car's electronics.

 
The oil filter can now be built and plumbed in, as well as the strut bar being attached. This makes everything quite rigid.

 

 
 
 
STAGE 79: WASHER FLUID RESERVOIR, ELECTRONIC CIRCUIT AND WIRING

 

 
It seems ages ago since we looked at any electronics, but here I get to plug the supplied cables into the circuit board. These are all numbered both on board and cable with only one board socket remaining free (06), which accommodates the speaker we recently fitted.

 
The board is now screwed into position as seen and the cables fed through various channels. I started with the cable the furthest away from the channel as I didn't want to end up with a rat's nest of untidy wiring. Cables 01, 02, 03, 04, and 05 are now connected to the various sockets that run from the battery box, steering column, lights, pedal etc. The speaker is also plugged into socket 06 on the circuit board.The windscreen washer fluid bag is also pushed into place next to the oil filter.

 
 
 
STAGE 80: LEFT FRONT FENDER STAGE 81: CHASSIS FRONT PANEL STAGE 82: RIGHT FRONT FENDER

 

 

Not too much to write about here except both fenders are now screwed to chassis front panel after the hood supports are fitted.

 

 

 

 
 
Until Pack 11, that's it!

Ok, onto Pack 3! Let's change that background to white also, as I need to get a new blue sheet and lockdown prevents this!
This is a lovely pack goodies because we now get to work on the lower chassis and put together some large parts that give an impression of just how big this 1:8 beauty will be when complete. Quite a bit of work to do here too, and let's face it, many of us haven't much else to do with our time at the moment! 🤣
 
Stage 15: Rear Main Chassis Assembly
Not much in this packet, but it is pretty significant. Take the rear main chassis part and connect to the fuel tank assembly. As simple as that, but now you can see how this thing is starting to grow, and the fit is superb!



 
 
 
Stage 16: Rear Floor Pan
Again, only one part here, but I got 2 packs of screws. Only one of them is used, so the other looks like I can just use for any spares I might need (although the instructions also show the pack, but no use for them). Take the Rear Floor Pan part and fit to the rear chassis. Pretty obvious where this goes. It's simply like fitting a square peg to a square hole, metaphorically speaking. Nine screws hold this in place.



 
 
 
Stage 17: Lower Rear Axle
This pack gives us the differential housing cover and the lower rear axle, plus screws. Take the differential cover and fit two screws into it so they go fully home. This just nests to the outside of the axle. Note the orientation of the differential though. That's pretty crucial.




 
 
 
Stage 18: Upper Rear Axle
Carrying on from the previous stage, we now get to complete the rear axle using this pack of components. Again, check the orientation of the differential from the previous stage and then fit the upper rear axle. You can clearly see that orientation here. Secure the parts with screws. You can also slip the springs into position too. 



 
The upper rear axle assembly can now be fitted to the rear chassis. Noting orientation, sit this so the two rods that the springs are sat on, connect to the lower chassis as thus, and then secure with two screws...


 
 
 
Stage 19: Left Rear Wheel Housing
Another pack with one part, but oh how beautifully it fits! Take the housing and secure to the left side of the lower chassis with three screws.





 
 
 
Stage 20: Left Leaf Spring
Now, you need to pay attention here to make sure you get the orientation of these vital parts, correct. You'll struggle to disassemble otherwise. These photos should clearly show you how this fits. Note the shape and position of the details on the leaf sprint itself, and be careful not to bend this part as it's a little pliable. Take the front shackle (very different to the rear shackle) and note which side of the leaf spring it fits to. Now push the pin into position to secure. One side of this is serrated, and when you push it fully in, those serrations will bite into the plastic and lock it. Use pliers for this.



Now do the same for the other side...

The leaf spring can now be fitted to the lower chassis. Note how those shackles match the underside when they fit. Lastly, the spring plate can be fitted with two screws.



 
 
 
Stages 21 and 22: Right Wheel Housing and Right Leaf Spring
The last two packs are the same as the previous two except we now fit these for the right hand side of the lower chassis.

 
 
 
And here's how it all looks when done! More next time!

Amazing build  - you got there in the end.
 
OC.

Its a nice looking model.

STAGE 99: REAR VALANCE, FOG LIGHTS & CONNECTING THE BODY TO THE CHASSIS & 
STAGE 100: REAR BUMPER, FRONT & REAR LICENSE PLATES

The rear valance is now fitted with fog lights. I also fit the reg plate from stage 100 too. 

Before the body can be fitted to the chassis, all the wiring is finally connected and batteries inserted into the engine compartment to check that all is ok.  Fitting the body took me quite a bit of time in making sure all lugs and holes were in alignment, and also that all cables were safe from being trapped. That aerial is also most at risk here when you turn the car over.

You might notice no rear wheels in this picture. That's because I broke the rear axle as mentioned at the start, and I decided it safest to fit the wheels last, prior to turning the car the right way round. The valence is now fitted and the number added. I also screw the front reg plate into position. 


 
 
All done!!!!!!!!







 
Conclusion
A lovely project that will doubtless be much loved by any petrol head or Shelby fan. The details are superb and the size of this means it's no shrinking violet. You'll need a nice care to display it, and also a strong shelf! All electronics worked as they should, from the engine sounds, to horn, rear lights and front lights. A year's worth of work is finally at an end and my bench will certainly look different with this now gone from it.

Just a quick update before I take a short break to start work on Sphinx (next week).
I'll be splitting my time for this, but will glue and make a few parts while I'm waiting on Sphinx stuff to dry etc. Nonetheless, my priority is Sphinx as you'll want to see it released as soon as possible.
 
For Granado, this is roughly where I'm currently at. On the side which will be exposed frame-wise, I added treenails. My intention was to drill and use black monofilament for these, but I got sick of breaking drill bits, trying to get inside the curve. I then decided to use a jeweller's beading tool to make an impression with a rounded head in the centre. A soft pencil was then used to colour the indent, and any excess removed with an eraser. The keel was then slotted into the jig and the double frames carefully glued onto the keel. I spent a few evenings doing this to make sure it was right and everything was level. A few slivers of wood were pushed into places to ensure an even gap between frames, whilst things dried.

 
Clamps were used to hold the upper timbers in position against each other.

 
The keelson is made from two parts, perfectly fitting, as seen here.

 
I have started to build the riders and their ribs, but I've now stopped work as I highlighted an error to Tom at CAF. The side floor timbers are supposed to be slotted on the underside. This is because some of the internal timbers run through those slots, and they are needed so those planks can be located in the hull. Those timbers are missing those slots, and Tom is now aware and remaking those to send out to customers. 
 
I have, however, glued the keelson into the hull, and you'll see that image next time.

STAGE 99: REAR VALANCE, FOG LIGHTS & CONNECTING THE BODY TO THE CHASSIS & 
STAGE 100: REAR BUMPER, FRONT & REAR LICENSE PLATES

The rear valance is now fitted with fog lights. I also fit the reg plate from stage 100 too. 

Before the body can be fitted to the chassis, all the wiring is finally connected and batteries inserted into the engine compartment to check that all is ok.  Fitting the body took me quite a bit of time in making sure all lugs and holes were in alignment, and also that all cables were safe from being trapped. That aerial is also most at risk here when you turn the car over.

You might notice no rear wheels in this picture. That's because I broke the rear axle as mentioned at the start, and I decided it safest to fit the wheels last, prior to turning the car the right way round. The valence is now fitted and the number added. I also screw the front reg plate into position. 


 
 
All done!!!!!!!!







 
Conclusion
A lovely project that will doubtless be much loved by any petrol head or Shelby fan. The details are superb and the size of this means it's no shrinking violet. You'll need a nice care to display it, and also a strong shelf! All electronics worked as they should, from the engine sounds, to horn, rear lights and front lights. A year's worth of work is finally at an end and my bench will certainly look different with this now gone from it.