Ray
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Ray got a reaction from muratx in HMS Diana 1794 by Ray - FINISHED - Caldercraft - A 38 gun Heavy Frigate
The Stern& Quarter Galleries being built at same time as coppering hull.
This proved to be quite tricky to build and even more so as I am going with the low quarterdeck sides. I lined up the transom so that the rail across the top of the stern gallery will line up and be the same height as the quarter deck sides, when they have the rail caps on them, this has meant the side windows are a bit to high by about 5mm and its to late to change the height, so I will have to live with it, I added a extra 3mm piece under the windows which brings the whole gallery down so it finishes in about the right place. Could I have tried to removed it all and lowered it, it is so well glued up it would have been a nightmare to do and could have ruined the whole stern, the good thing is the top stern gallery rail and the quarterdeck rail will line up and look right. Once the quarter galleries were made up the stern gallery was done and the rail across the top added a length of 1x4mm walnut was well soaked and then bent into shape and fixed whilst very damp with cyno. Back to a bit more coppering as I mentioned before I have been building this up whilst coppering.
Starting the stern gallery
Galleries building
Top rail added
ready to paint
curtains
painting
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Ray got a reaction from Shipyard sid in HMS Diana 1794 by Ray - FINISHED - Caldercraft - A 38 gun Heavy Frigate
Copper plating the hull.
Firstly I decided to go with the copper plates supplied with the kit although I much preferred the look of the ones used on Pegasus, the cost would have been over £100 to update them too much for me. I started from the edge of the keel and fixed a row of tiles left over from Pegasus on the edge, I then came down 3 Rows before running a gore line, I did it by eye and feel and looking back at Pegasus to get the same sort of effect, as there does not seem to be a definitive way of doing this. One advantage I have found with these plates are they fix very well, maybe it is the dimples on the fixing side holding the cyno better than a plain flat surface, they also cut well and dress down fairly easily with a file or sanding wheel, when you need to make up the triangular stealers.
First few tiles on
Gore line marked out
Gore line tiled
About a quarter done
First side nearly done
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Ray reacted to mobbsie in HMS Diana 1794 by Ray - FINISHED - Caldercraft - A 38 gun Heavy Frigate
That's some fantastic plating Ray, I totally agree with you regards the gore line, in my case it was just luck it worked out ok.
Thanks for posting the details.
mobbsie
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Ray got a reaction from Bill Hime in HMS Diana 1794 by Ray - FINISHED - Caldercraft - A 38 gun Heavy Frigate
David, Juergen, Andy, MarkThanks for the comments guys David she is quite large but I agree with Andy you have to build the one that floats your boat.
Mark….. The gore line I could not find any information that lays down rules for where it should be, and I am not a fan off the method where two or three rows of plates that go in a band around the water line, so I set the gore line so it looks right to me, I did the same on Pegasus and I looked at her, and used her as a guide as the hull shapes are not dissimilar, hope this is of help.
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Ray got a reaction from jablackwell in HMS Diana 1794 by Ray - FINISHED - Caldercraft - A 38 gun Heavy Frigate
Copper plating the hull.
Firstly I decided to go with the copper plates supplied with the kit although I much preferred the look of the ones used on Pegasus, the cost would have been over £100 to update them too much for me. I started from the edge of the keel and fixed a row of tiles left over from Pegasus on the edge, I then came down 3 Rows before running a gore line, I did it by eye and feel and looking back at Pegasus to get the same sort of effect, as there does not seem to be a definitive way of doing this. One advantage I have found with these plates are they fix very well, maybe it is the dimples on the fixing side holding the cyno better than a plain flat surface, they also cut well and dress down fairly easily with a file or sanding wheel, when you need to make up the triangular stealers.
First few tiles on
Gore line marked out
Gore line tiled
About a quarter done
First side nearly done
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Ray got a reaction from GrandpaPhil in Lady Nelson By Ray - FINISHED - Amati/Victory Models
The Lady Nelson
This is my finished Lady Nelson
Great fun to do, and a good relearning curve, having not built a model for many years, and I am well pleased with the end result. The kit I would I recommend it, 100% yes, great quality materials super plans and drawings, plenty of wood, both planking and dowel, cord as well, the only short fall some 3mm blocks and eyes but is there anything perfect. I can now open the box of my next model HMS Pegasus in earnest, not sure whether to do a build log for her?
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Ray got a reaction from Shipyard sid in HMS Diana 1794 by Ray - FINISHED - Caldercraft - A 38 gun Heavy Frigate
The main wale The main wale planking was done next; again the timber needed dressing before it could be used, as the edges were very rough. After all the planks were fixed I taped over the top thinner plank so as to protect it, and to maintain the difference when rubbing down the rest of the wale. The wale was rubbed down and filled and top plank uncovered and the whole wale painted black.
The whole of the hull including the wale was given a coat of 50/50 satin water based varnish and water, I use this as a sealer, I find both paint and the copper tiles adhere to it very well (I did a test strip to make sure).
First plank on
Ready to fill and paint
Narrow top wale plank
Wale in progress and lined gun ports
Masked up and painted
Wale completed and 50% water-varnish sealer on
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Ray reacted to Alfons in 80' ELCO PT Boat by Timothy Wood - FINISHED - BlueJacket Shipcrafters - Scale 1/4" = 1'
Nice work, you are making steady progress. As previously said, I am looking forward to following the painting process
/Alfons
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Ray got a reaction from Gabek in HMS Diana 1794 by Ray - FINISHED - Caldercraft - A 38 gun Heavy Frigate
Copper plating the hull.
Firstly I decided to go with the copper plates supplied with the kit although I much preferred the look of the ones used on Pegasus, the cost would have been over £100 to update them too much for me. I started from the edge of the keel and fixed a row of tiles left over from Pegasus on the edge, I then came down 3 Rows before running a gore line, I did it by eye and feel and looking back at Pegasus to get the same sort of effect, as there does not seem to be a definitive way of doing this. One advantage I have found with these plates are they fix very well, maybe it is the dimples on the fixing side holding the cyno better than a plain flat surface, they also cut well and dress down fairly easily with a file or sanding wheel, when you need to make up the triangular stealers.
First few tiles on
Gore line marked out
Gore line tiled
About a quarter done
First side nearly done
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Ray got a reaction from fnkershner in HMS Diana 1794 by Ray - FINISHED - Caldercraft - A 38 gun Heavy Frigate
Copper plating the hull.
Firstly I decided to go with the copper plates supplied with the kit although I much preferred the look of the ones used on Pegasus, the cost would have been over £100 to update them too much for me. I started from the edge of the keel and fixed a row of tiles left over from Pegasus on the edge, I then came down 3 Rows before running a gore line, I did it by eye and feel and looking back at Pegasus to get the same sort of effect, as there does not seem to be a definitive way of doing this. One advantage I have found with these plates are they fix very well, maybe it is the dimples on the fixing side holding the cyno better than a plain flat surface, they also cut well and dress down fairly easily with a file or sanding wheel, when you need to make up the triangular stealers.
First few tiles on
Gore line marked out
Gore line tiled
About a quarter done
First side nearly done
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Ray got a reaction from freewheelinguy in HMS Diana 1794 by Ray - FINISHED - Caldercraft - A 38 gun Heavy Frigate
Copper plating the hull.
Firstly I decided to go with the copper plates supplied with the kit although I much preferred the look of the ones used on Pegasus, the cost would have been over £100 to update them too much for me. I started from the edge of the keel and fixed a row of tiles left over from Pegasus on the edge, I then came down 3 Rows before running a gore line, I did it by eye and feel and looking back at Pegasus to get the same sort of effect, as there does not seem to be a definitive way of doing this. One advantage I have found with these plates are they fix very well, maybe it is the dimples on the fixing side holding the cyno better than a plain flat surface, they also cut well and dress down fairly easily with a file or sanding wheel, when you need to make up the triangular stealers.
First few tiles on
Gore line marked out
Gore line tiled
About a quarter done
First side nearly done
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Ray got a reaction from mobbsie in HMS Agamemnon by mobbsie - FINISHED - Caldercraft / Jotika - 1/64
Hi Mobbsie
Coppering looks great I am at a similar point with my Diana and the coppering patten looks about the same, its a bit scary where to put the gore line as you do not know if it is right untill you have completed one side. I have found the Caldercraft plates fix very well, and cut well, second side should be a walk in the park, all be it a longish one.
Regards Ray
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Ray reacted to mobbsie in HMS Agamemnon by mobbsie - FINISHED - Caldercraft / Jotika - 1/64
Hi Guys
Thanks for looking in and the kind comments, suggestions and remarks, appreciate them all.
Andrieke, it's not that difficult when you get started, you will every now and then get one that overlaps slightly but generally it's not a problem. I found my biggest problem was / is that when gluing a plate down the time allowed for adjustment varies a lot, you can place a plate and move it time and again, place another one and the glue grabs straight away, if it's not in the correct position it then needs to be cut off.
Another problem I've found is crushing the plate pattern, when cutting or trying to shape a plate it's easy to squash the rivets, this does have an adverse effect to the finish, as I've just found out, overall the effect is pleasing but don't look to close, there are a few howlers.
Unfortunately Hamilton I don't eat in my workroom, only coffee and soft drinks allowed, but I'm pressing on.
I do have a few pics of the completed starboard side and If anybody has a suggestion for improving the port side please don't hold back.
An almost completed side
Starboard side is now complete
As way of distraction I decided to have a go at the rudder, not as easy as I first thought.
So there we have it, right up to date, any suggestions will be warmly received.
mobbsie
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Ray reacted to Beef Wellington in HMS Diana 1794 by Ray - FINISHED - Caldercraft - A 38 gun Heavy Frigate
Ray, you're way more experience than me, but I definitely agree with your approach. I don't know why CC put the coppering so far into the build instructions, it just seems to make it that much harder to manage and like you I liked to have the freedom to work on the hull without worrying about breaking anything delicate. I love the way she is looking already, the planking, wood tone and the black look very nice indeed!
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Ray got a reaction from muratx in HMS Diana 1794 by Ray - FINISHED - Caldercraft - A 38 gun Heavy Frigate
The main wale The main wale planking was done next; again the timber needed dressing before it could be used, as the edges were very rough. After all the planks were fixed I taped over the top thinner plank so as to protect it, and to maintain the difference when rubbing down the rest of the wale. The wale was rubbed down and filled and top plank uncovered and the whole wale painted black.
The whole of the hull including the wale was given a coat of 50/50 satin water based varnish and water, I use this as a sealer, I find both paint and the copper tiles adhere to it very well (I did a test strip to make sure).
First plank on
Ready to fill and paint
Narrow top wale plank
Wale in progress and lined gun ports
Masked up and painted
Wale completed and 50% water-varnish sealer on
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Ray got a reaction from Bill Hime in HMS Diana 1794 by Ray - FINISHED - Caldercraft - A 38 gun Heavy Frigate
The main wale The main wale planking was done next; again the timber needed dressing before it could be used, as the edges were very rough. After all the planks were fixed I taped over the top thinner plank so as to protect it, and to maintain the difference when rubbing down the rest of the wale. The wale was rubbed down and filled and top plank uncovered and the whole wale painted black.
The whole of the hull including the wale was given a coat of 50/50 satin water based varnish and water, I use this as a sealer, I find both paint and the copper tiles adhere to it very well (I did a test strip to make sure).
First plank on
Ready to fill and paint
Narrow top wale plank
Wale in progress and lined gun ports
Masked up and painted
Wale completed and 50% water-varnish sealer on
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Ray got a reaction from fnkershner in HMS Diana 1794 by Ray - FINISHED - Caldercraft - A 38 gun Heavy Frigate
The main wale The main wale planking was done next; again the timber needed dressing before it could be used, as the edges were very rough. After all the planks were fixed I taped over the top thinner plank so as to protect it, and to maintain the difference when rubbing down the rest of the wale. The wale was rubbed down and filled and top plank uncovered and the whole wale painted black.
The whole of the hull including the wale was given a coat of 50/50 satin water based varnish and water, I use this as a sealer, I find both paint and the copper tiles adhere to it very well (I did a test strip to make sure).
First plank on
Ready to fill and paint
Narrow top wale plank
Wale in progress and lined gun ports
Masked up and painted
Wale completed and 50% water-varnish sealer on
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Ray got a reaction from mobbsie in HMS Agamemnon by mobbsie - FINISHED - Caldercraft / Jotika - 1/64
Hi Mobbsie
l have just started coppering Diana a test row first and am going to do it in a very similar up x amount of rows and a gore line when it looks right the same as I did on Pegasus. I will add a batten at the water line before more tiling, one good thing the caldercraft tiles stick well.
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Ray got a reaction from shurick in Lady Nelson by shurick - Amati/Victory Models - Scale 1:64 - first build
Hi Shurick
l built Lady Nelson and my buid log is on the site she rearly is great model to build and ideal as a first build you can learn all the model building skills on her I look foreward to your updates.
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Ray got a reaction from de_kryger in HMS Diana 1794 by Ray - FINISHED - Caldercraft - A 38 gun Heavy Frigate
Second Planking
I started planking from the top of the wale, this position was marked out as per the instructions measuring down from the main deck gun ports. I like to lay the second planks semi-wet to damp and fix with cyno gel; I find the cyno grabs damp timber much better than dry timber. One thing I will comment on is the quality of the planking the 1x4mm being the worst, it is nowhere as good as the planking supplied in the two Victory kits I have built, the edges are rough and splintery, and also show saw marks, four out of ten would be my best mark I could give the 1x5mm a little better, So before soaking I had to sand all the planking edges a bit of a pain. I went downwards with the 1x5mm for five rows,( the instruction say plank right down to the keel and plank upward last), I then went upwards with the 1x4mm only because I thought it was only a matter of time while working on the bottom I would break or damage the fore or quarter deck sides, this way their thickness would be doubled and be a lot less fragile. The planking as gone ok so far.
Jason
At the end I have posted two pics with Diana along side Pegasus hope this gives you the size compassion.
Rough planking
First few planks on
Working upwards
Planked upwards to the top
Planking well under way
Diana and Pegasus
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Ray got a reaction from jablackwell in HMS Diana 1794 by Ray - FINISHED - Caldercraft - A 38 gun Heavy Frigate
The second planking is completed sanded, filled, and sanded again and lastly finished off with wire wool, I have also lined the gun ports with lids, all the gun ports have been painted. One thing I did do was to add a 1mm strip to the bottom of the keel as to my eyes the distance between the planking and the keel bottom looked to narrow.
Bow planking
Stern post and stealers
second planking completed
First sanding
Filler aplied
Lined gun ports
Extra wood added to allow easier lining of bow gun port
After final sanding
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Ray got a reaction from Mirabell61 in HMS Diana 1794 by Ray - FINISHED - Caldercraft - A 38 gun Heavy Frigate
Second Planking
I started planking from the top of the wale, this position was marked out as per the instructions measuring down from the main deck gun ports. I like to lay the second planks semi-wet to damp and fix with cyno gel; I find the cyno grabs damp timber much better than dry timber. One thing I will comment on is the quality of the planking the 1x4mm being the worst, it is nowhere as good as the planking supplied in the two Victory kits I have built, the edges are rough and splintery, and also show saw marks, four out of ten would be my best mark I could give the 1x5mm a little better, So before soaking I had to sand all the planking edges a bit of a pain. I went downwards with the 1x5mm for five rows,( the instruction say plank right down to the keel and plank upward last), I then went upwards with the 1x4mm only because I thought it was only a matter of time while working on the bottom I would break or damage the fore or quarter deck sides, this way their thickness would be doubled and be a lot less fragile. The planking as gone ok so far.
Jason
At the end I have posted two pics with Diana along side Pegasus hope this gives you the size compassion.
Rough planking
First few planks on
Working upwards
Planked upwards to the top
Planking well under way
Diana and Pegasus
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Ray got a reaction from mtaylor in HMS Diana 1794 by Ray - FINISHED - Caldercraft - A 38 gun Heavy Frigate
Thanks for the comments guys, I Just have the last couple of planks to go on and the second planking will be done, I will update once I have sanded her down.
I have made quicker progress than normal as 12 weeks ago I had a total knee replacement so have not been able to play golf or go carp fishing, so I will probably slow down a bit soon, but it has been great to do the build as it takes your mind of the painful knee (even at 2 o’clock in the morning).
Pegasus & Diana what a difference in size between Pegasus the littlest frigate (sloop) & Diana the largest frigate.
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Ray reacted to Beef Wellington in HMS Diana 1794 by Ray - FINISHED - Caldercraft - A 38 gun Heavy Frigate
Ray, planking is looking great despite your challenges with the wood. I've read from others similar concerns over the quality of the supplied wood in CC kits, I think I just got lucky with mine, but the tanganika did need each plank to get sanded to get a decent edge. Its a shame because otherwise they seem to be high quality. You also seem to be moving on at a cracking pace
Thanks for posting the side-by-side, amazing to see the size comparison between these two frigates.
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Ray got a reaction from Bill Hime in HMS Diana 1794 by Ray - FINISHED - Caldercraft - A 38 gun Heavy Frigate
Second Planking
I started planking from the top of the wale, this position was marked out as per the instructions measuring down from the main deck gun ports. I like to lay the second planks semi-wet to damp and fix with cyno gel; I find the cyno grabs damp timber much better than dry timber. One thing I will comment on is the quality of the planking the 1x4mm being the worst, it is nowhere as good as the planking supplied in the two Victory kits I have built, the edges are rough and splintery, and also show saw marks, four out of ten would be my best mark I could give the 1x5mm a little better, So before soaking I had to sand all the planking edges a bit of a pain. I went downwards with the 1x5mm for five rows,( the instruction say plank right down to the keel and plank upward last), I then went upwards with the 1x4mm only because I thought it was only a matter of time while working on the bottom I would break or damage the fore or quarter deck sides, this way their thickness would be doubled and be a lot less fragile. The planking as gone ok so far.
Jason
At the end I have posted two pics with Diana along side Pegasus hope this gives you the size compassion.
Rough planking
First few planks on
Working upwards
Planked upwards to the top
Planking well under way
Diana and Pegasus
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