paulb
-
Posts
117 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Events
Everything posted by paulb
-
Almost all pics have been updated. I will check on the the remaining ones, but first a little update. All cannons have been glued to the Quarter Deck, including troot brails (if this is the correct term) and all tackles. Before doing that, I first had to make the decoration on the inside of the bulwarks (the thin black lines). Unfortunately, the kit has no foto-etches of these parts, so I made them from styrene strips (0.25x0.50mm), which I painted black. These lines determine the position of the eye-bolts for the troot brails and tackles. Please don't mind the "stains" on the deck. It's just been sanded, and a full coat of transparent varnish will follow. Next the cannons in the Captain's Cabin. Four completely geared, two in reserve. I will continue now with the mast sleeve for the mizzen-mast and the binnacle.
-
Back after a long time of inactivity. Apparently Photobucket has changed their terms and conditions in the meantime, causing all my pictures to be invisible. I will try and find an easy solution to this problem (rather than paying Photobucket $400 annually). Maybe Flickr is an option. Work on the quarterdeck is progressing.
-
Nice job, Graham, and It seems it will be a scratch model, rather than a kit model . Very nice to incorporate some original Victory material! I'll be following your built.
-
Very nice progress, Robert. Excellent job. Quarter deck barricade well done, no visible deviation from the vertical. Turns out I was over-concerned... Progress on the beakhead, roundhouses and bow is impressive. You were well prepared. I'm happy you're ahead of me now: gives me the opportunity to pick up your solutions
-
I like your coppered roof. I broke exactly the same part, epoxy glue is very, very useful, I use it more often now. About the Quarterdeck Barricade Assembly: looks very good. However, after glueing it onto the deck, the beams will follow the curve of the deck. As a result, the supports, pillars and hammock cranes may not be vertical anymore. I had some problems getting them vertical anyway. Another issue with the Barricade is the size. It is about the same height as the Belfry, which is too tall. I have accepted it, but I'm not completely happy with it. Cheers, Paul
-
Looks good. I like the coppering with the 1/3 overlap. Firstly, the main quarter gallery seems perfect. After fitting the gallery decorations there will be less excess, but still, there will be some, which is fine Second, the beakhead bulkhead, also seems OK. Can I make one general suggestion: I would give everything a finish of matt PU transparent varnish. It will give the ship a less shiny, more quiet character. But this is just my personal opinion. Regards, Paul
-
hanks, guys, for your kind remarks! Some more work on the Forecastle. I added some details to the Belfry and the Forecastle Breast Beam Assembly. As most parts are cut from a plate, only two sides are tapered. Where needed I tapered all four sides. This is the original: And my version: I also adjusted the Galley Stove Chimney to look more realistic. The original: And my version (please ignore the dust): Some work on the gratings, again the original with the dovetail joint: And my effort (don't mind the wood structure, this is makro ++):
-
The skid beam pillars are somewhat difficult, so you have to take it easy. Try one, they're always too long, take off some of it and so on. Use glue which cures slowly, so you have time to correct them. What is your plan with the rope handrail? It is supposed to go through the pillars of the middle companionway. Is that still possible? Your ship looks great, very neat! Paul
-
Thanks David; Gil is a great source of inspiration, and so are others. I finalized painting the hull, bulwarks and Captain's Cabin. I repainted the gun ports and the gun barrels.
-
Thanks Elijah and Robert. Considering the fact that you have already painted the hull, you are not much, if at all, behind me, Robert. In the meantime I continued working on the planking of the hull and the bulwarks. Finally the planking of the hull is complete, including the forecastle and quarterdeck capping rails and the waist capping. Only the Poop is left to plank. I fitted the forecastle snatch block as well. A brass sheave will be fitted later. The white lining between the deck and the bulwark is the waterway and will be painted yellow ochre. Then the quarterdeck screen assembly: Is was somewhat difficult to choose the right colour: in some (older) pictures the screen is dark brown, on more recent pictures (such as mine) the screen is Victory-yellow. I decided to paint the screen dark brown. You may notice the hinges on top of the alongship screen panel. These panels were lifted to make place for cannons during sea battle. Some pictures: Now the big painting job can start. The outside yellow-on-black bands (my second planking is not good enough to allow for natural wooden planking). First I will paint the hull yellow, than I will indicate where the black bands should come. Finally I will paint the bulwarks yellow. Hopefully you will see pictures of a completely different HMS Victory .
-
Nice work on the Upper Gun Deck, Robert. Such a pity that ultimately you will only see about 10% of it. But it's good to know it's all there
-
Excellent job, Heinz. The craftmanship is amazing. Paul
-
Following some relative rest (and waiting for Caldercraft to send me some planks), I decided to change some work already done. I was made aware that the Skid Beams were not quite like the ones on McKay's drawings and I failed to insert a King Plank while planking the Quarter Deck. First the Skid Beams: instead of one solid beam, the Skid Beams consist of two overlapping beams: Than the King Plank: McKay clearly draws a King Plank on the Quarter Deck, but not on the Poop: This is the result: I removed the deck planks already glued and the old skid beams frame. Next I made a jig for the new (half) skid beams, and waited for Caldercraft to send me a 6mm Tanganyika plank, which they did (free of charge). I made a new frame because the distances between the beams were different now. I put back the Skid Beams and planked the deck, now including a 6mm King Plank.
-
Very nice deck. Personally I would not use a satin finish. Generally in models, it is better to finish more matt than in real life. Paul
- 527 replies
-
- 2
-
-
- caldercraft
- victory
- (and 1 more)
-
Hi Gary, love your work. The shrouds are a subjects of a lot of debate: are they shroud-laid or cable-laid, which once are wormed, parcelled and/or served. For the lower shrouds it's easy, and just like you mentioned. However McKay in The 100-gun ship Victory says all shrouds for the Fore Mast, Main Mast and Mizzen Mast should be wormed, parcelled and served. Clearly this is not the case on the present Victory where only the foremost shrouds are protected this way. But all the shrouds are wormed, parcelled and served a certain section down from the bight over the mast. According to McKay the shrouds of the Fore Topmast and the Main Topmast also should be wormed, parcelled and served. Probably this only applies to the foremost shrouds. The shrouds of the Mizzen Topmast should be served and tarred. None of the shrouds of the Topgallant Mast are either wormed, parcelled or served. I hope this is of some use for you. Paul
- 85 replies
-
- 1
-
-
- finished
- caldercraft
- (and 1 more)
-
I would definitely go for a matt finish. Even then there is still some shininess.
- 295 replies
-
- 1
-
-
- victory
- caldercraft
- (and 1 more)
-
Planking and galleries look great, Robert. Re 2nd planking and wales: I bevelled the latter but not the former. Like others I used anchor stock and top-and-but system for the wales, and because I plan to paint the hull, the bevelling was necessary. There is some debate about which wale has the anchor stock,and which one has the top-and-but. I followed McKay.
- 527 replies
-
- 1
-
-
- caldercraft
- victory
- (and 1 more)
-
Quarter Deck Thanks Bob and Elijah, First some last details before fitting the quarterdeck: the Skid Beam Assembly and the Fore Brace Bitt Assembly. First the Skid Beams: I varnished the beams dark brown (Wenge), and used matt black (Revell) for the frame. This black kills the wood, but it helped to finish with a matt transparent varnish, which brings some life back. The quarterdeck bitt pins have 3 sheaves, and the head ends are covered with zinc (I guess). In the model I simulated reality as much as possible with a brass platelet on the head ends, finished with matt, transparent varnish, and I added 2 sheaves per pin (2 and 4 mm). On the quarterdeck the pin should have 3 sheaves. The manual does not mention them and there is only room for 2. After long thinking about the option of thickening the pin, I have decided to fit 2 sheaves. Not 100% true to reality, but visually OK and fairly realistic. The head ends were primed with MetalPrimer, then painted with metal paint and finished with matt, transparent varnish. Finally a dry fit of the quarterdeck:
-
Thanks Bob, love your HMAV Bounty. I am following your HMS Victory, Heinz. Very inspirational and showing great skill. It humbles me to receive a compliment from you. A few photographs of the finishing touch of the upper deck. I decided to mount the main mast sleeve now, and to do it according to the McKay drawings and to the situation in Portsmouth. This means the addition of a reinforcing double flooring around the mast, and a double sleeve, made from styrene. In addition I made an apron around the Elm Tree Pump as per next photograph
-
Hi Gary, It is a wonderful job you're doing. I wish your log was way longer to show all the small steps you've taken to get this result. About the blocks: I replaced all my blocks with those from http://clasicmodel.com/shop/. Great quality, see below.
- 85 replies
-
- 1
-
-
- finished
- caldercraft
- (and 1 more)
-
I've got a question about the color of the (visible from the Quarter Deck) skid beams of the Victory, the ones supporting the boats. The manual calls for black, Gil Middleton painted them brown, which I like a lot, but Longridge and McKay don't mention color. Does anyone have any historical reference as regard to the correct color? All I found is picture taken from below(i.e. standing on the Upper Gun Deck). It seems the dark beams are the Skid Beams, which are covered on top by canvas. They look pretty dark, but so do the pillars, which are dark brown.
-
You are most welcome Ian and Sjors. Your Victory and Agamemnon are both very inspirational and instructive for me. Now the last fittings of the Upper Gun Deck, before mounting the Quarter Deck. Any parts like stanchions, pillars and the Elm Tree Pump are provided with a metal pin at the bottom, before glueing them on the deck. The pin sticks through the deck for extra strength. The Elm Tree Pump consists of several parts. According to the manual the handle is plain brass, but the pump on the HMS Victory has a wooden handle. I drilled a 1mm walnut stick lengthwise, stuck it over the brass handle, sanded the sides flat and finally gave it a matt finish. Additionally I gave the pump a water outlet, otherwise it would not be of much use. Unpainted: Painted (with the exception of the handle): I might fit the mast sleeve now or later. Probably now for easy access.
-
Thanks Ian and Elijah. @Ian: Nice work you are doing with your Victory. The construction of the wales often causes a lot of discussion. You are absolutely right about what Longridge writes:main wale anchor stock (because of its strength), middle wale top-and-butt (because it uses less wood than anchor stock). Surprisingly enough on plan no. 2 in the same book the drawing shows the reverse, and is very similar to McKay's drawing. I have followed McKay, not because I know for sure he is correct, but his drawings are the most recent and I had to make a choice. Both solutions have sources to support them.
-
Nice to recieve such quick replies, thanks for your compliments. @ Ian: I studied Dafi's Victory. Nice piece of work indeed! @ Kevin: I won't. It will be done during the painting of the hull. regards, Paul
-
Cannons, complete: Some details:
Our Emblem ®
