thibaultron

Once again you have brought us a wonderful product! You are a resin printing Guru!

Beautiful!

Thanks for the link!

Not assuming the same density. I asked how big a planet 1.3 times the mass of Earth would be. (Mars and the assumed similarly size impacting proto-planet (named Thea) being about the same size.) So the starting value would be 1 Earth mass, not .9. And then it went off into strange assumptions and calculations.

I have a thread on printing cannons in resin, that may be of help.

If using CATGPT, just be careful to verify the answers! I asked it a simple question about what size a planet with 1.3 Earth masses would be, and it started with the Earth being .9 Earth masses, and went into LA LA land after that! (Yes, I have weird questions in my head! I was watching a documentary on the formation of the moon. Mars size proto-planet sideswipes Earth sized proto-planet and leaves our Earth, the Moon, and the leftover stuff escapes orbit).

Found this description. https://amesburycarriagemuseum.org/news/2024/5/10/spotlight-on-collections-the-doctors-buggy

Well just stick in a few "Pink Flamingo"statues!

Chuck. I was thinking about your counting of the collars problem. Maybe leave the proper number, still on the base sheet, and supports, and let the modeler separate them?

This is a picture of the USS Thomas Freeborn labeled as taken in 1861. I think this shows a gray, or faded black carriage. as the barrel is also gray.

For CNC machining , as far as software, you will need at least windows 10, for compatibility with the other software. UGS software (free) is used to drive the CNC router directly from your computer, with newer CNC machines, via an USB cable. Some of the newest machine can use a thumb drive directly, to cut the file. To create the cutting files you need a "Creator" program to generate the cut files. The general ones are Easel (a very basic program, with limited 3D object usefulness). It requires an on going subscription. Carbide Create, better but not full 3D object machining and limited 3D model creation) also a subscription based program, with a high monthly fee. VCarve, Desktop ~$350 to purchase, no monthly subscription. For modeling you will still need to use some type of 3D CAD program to create the original scale model. The typical two used are both subscription based SketchUp and Fusion 360. I have not tried it but Blender is supposed to also be able to create 3D files that you can use to send the the CNC programs previously mentioned, and it is free! Others will have to chime in on the Blender option.

Would putting screens in the windows help reduce the bird impacts? Any opinions?

For really small detailing, you might want to check out the 3030-PROVer MAX CNC Router Machine with Linear Guide & Ball Screw Motion, Achieve ±0.05mm Accuracy for High Precision Metal Aluminum Copper Acrylic Engraving, Supports 4th Axis Rotary Kit It has ballscrews for the axis feedscrews. The stated accuracy is + .05mm or 0.002 inches.

Drop them in in ones and twos, so they don't jam. Pharmiststs tray to funnel.

You can buy decal sheets that you run through a printer to create your own.

Most of the plans from Chappelle's books are available from the Smithsonian, for a suitable fee.

A few years ago Clayton A. Feldman (a former Editor of Ships In Scale) wrote a practicum on building the Lexington, using new research, to generate a new set of plans for her. While I'm sure that his practicum uses either POF or POB for the hull construction, you could use Davis's solid hull methods for the hull. Back when Davis wrote his book, less was available to draw plans from. I suggest you at least look at the practicum, for the plans. It available from the NRG store. Building the Continental Navy Brig Lexington, A Practicum by Clayton A. Feldman. They also have another of his practicums, that covers three models of increasing complexity, to help get a new modeler started. This is also available from the NRG. Progressive Scratch Building in Ship Modeling by Clayton A. Feldman. I have the later, bought when Ships In Scale was still in publication, and found it quite helpful, in understanding ship modeling.

The museum I contacted, came through with 2 additional archived photos the Oil Junction Depot, that helped me determine more details of the building. I also found a photo on the Web showing the door. The windows were double hung single pane ones, not the 6 panes I thought. The sign was also about 10" shorter than my guess from the corner shot I had. It took about half a day to find a true type font that was close to the one the Southern Pacific used for the depot signs. It is call the "Consolidation" font. The real railroads used their own drawn fonts, not any "Standard" ones created for our computers. Here is a picture of the "Final" version. The lettering on the sign is 3D, not just flat painted ones. I also have the sign without the lettering, should I decide to try making decals for the lettering. The 3D letters are only a scale 1/4 inch thick, so in HO scale they would be the same thickness a a sheet of paper. Here is a picture of the old model. Here is the final version, without the sign lettering, showing the new door and screen door . Note, that the picture that showed the door also showed that the sashes (under the OSB used to board them up) were brown, so that was also changed from the white I used before. And here it is with the sign lettering added. I've been working on the Commonwealth cannons also. I now have 7 of the twelve size barrels, I have drawings for completed. When I'm done there will be three versions of the cannons. The first will be with the original cypher when they were cast under the "Rebel" rule, the plain barrels used when Charles retook his throne, and had those cyphers ground off, and the version that were cast later with his crest. Then I have some sizes that a member asked for that were specific to drawings he found for HMS Tiger. I'm going to concentrated more on the cannon, now that I finished this depot.

While I’m CADing the British Commonwealth cannons, I’m continuing with drafting some small Santa Fe Railroad depots. I do a day of cannons, then a day of depots. I’m CADing small stations for the eventual display I’m making to show a variety of SF depot designs. I have models of several of the standard depots. Most of these are larger standard types, so a few small unique ones will help to save some space, and be different from the more common kit models I have. This latest depot, is the Oil Junction Depot. This is a small depot that served a junction of the Santa Fe and the Southern Pacific in California. The depot was built to SP standards, by the looks of the drawings and photos. While this building still exists in a museum, the information on it is scarce. All I have is three photos, and the drawings from an article in a SF Historical Society magazine. A small photo in the magazine, and another I found on the Web, are fairly low quality, making details hard to see. The biggest problem, is that the depot had screens on the windows, and door, completely masking the window and door details. I contacted the museum, to see if they had any information on the building on their site. They helpfully told me that all they could help me with was pointing me to a small photo hidden on Web site. Once again, the screens hide the details. They were unwilling to actually walk out and just give me a short description of the windows and door! The SP depots have similar looking details to the SF, so I used my drawings of the door and windows to use on this depot model. I did find specs for the SP paint scheme, and pictures of still existing depots to “paint” the depot with. The article indicated that the SP colors were used. Here are some graphics of the model. Note, that the hole in the back wall is for a vent that is screened over. Not sure what I’m going to use for screening, I’ll have to research that. The light green interior walls are also SP standard

Here is the first of the Commonwealth cannon barrels. This is the 32 Pounder 108 barrel. I'm going to draw all the barrels I have 2D drawings for, initially, with no cyphers. The earlier cannons had the "Arms Of The Commonwealth" cypher on them, then when Charles II retook the throne, these were removed Filed off), leaving no cypher. Cannons cast during his reign had his cypher cast on. I will draw that "Commonwealth" and Charles "Tudor Rose" cypers after I've finished all the barrels. Yes the trunnions are too long. I did this on purpose, after doing a couple of barrels for Chuck, last year. He leaves his long, so that modelers can then trim them to match the carriages they build, which might end up a little wider than a "Perfectly Scale" width. Easy to do for small scale models. When installed the ends can be trimmed to match the model carriage.

Looking at the video, I'd say about 1" round object.

I finished the baggage shed drawings for the Boron Station. I started with the only two photographs I could find. One is a color photo of two sides of the shed, as of about 1995. The other is a picture out of the magazine I found the drawings in. Here is the color photo I found showing one end and the side with the sliding door. I heavily adjusted the original to highlight the battens so I could scale for the drawings. The battens are spaced 12 inches apart. The door is shown at the righthand side of the picture. The exposed door framing resembled that for a sliding shed door. This framing would originally be on the inside. I think the door used to have the standard tongue and grove siding when built in 1912. As time went on the siding started to decay, and they nailed a piece of plywood on the inside to strengthen it. By 1995, all the siding had decayed leaving the exposed framing shown in the photo. I CADed the door as having the original style siding. The shed was drawn as being 12 X 16 feet, as indicated by the battens, and I made the door opening the standard 82-inch height of a shed door. The door opening measures out at 30 inches, which is narrow for a standard shed door, but I went with the shown width. Here is the picture from the article, showing just a little of the opposite end on the station side. The portion of the window that is visible, shows that it is in the same position as the one on the side shown in the color photo, and that the pane was originally a 6 pane 2 vertical x 3 horizontal sash, like the ones on the station. I left the rear wall plain with no doors or windows. That seems correct for a building like this baggage shed. Here are two colored drawings of the shed, showing all four walls. Note that the photos showed exposed rafter ends. This was also typical of the standard Santa Fe shed designs. These next two graphics show the station and shed; in the general configuration they were in when at the Boron spur area. The red and black tiles/linoleum floor shown in the station, was what the station drawings showed. The graphics show the building as seen from the tracks. This last graphic shows the underside of the roof with the rafter ends. Now that I finished these drawings, I’m going back to CADing cannons, this time the British Commonwealth Pattern ones, from the mid to later 1600s.

First, what do you want to do with the CNC? Are you making 3D parts, what materials, metal and/or wood? What type of machine CNC Router or a full CNC mill. Do You want high precision parts? What size parts are you planning to cut. Personal or commercial production plans. As far as software, I would recommend the Vcarve program (Pro if your machine will be bigger than 24" X 24") if you can design the parts on Sketchup, Fusion, or another 3D program. The other carving programs are subscription based, and not as powerful. Do you have a machine or are you looking for recommendations?

Here is a colored image, in as correct a set of colors I can get out of my CAD program.

I finished the rest of the depot 3D CAD. I added the roof trim boards, both to the roof edge, and the wall to roof joint. I also drew the bathroom vent, a hole for the coal stove stack (which I bought 18 of), and the station sign and supports. Looking at these graphics, I have to add locating tabs to the underside of the roof.