thibaultron

Just another thought - you said there's no hobby shop near you; what if you call the guy at Big Rich Models who curated your electronics? He'd probably be happy to talk you through debugging the boat.

If anyone wants to build this model boat.  There is a Marx version on eBay right now.  The Marx version has metal parts which I think are superior to Lindberg's plastic ones. You would have to paint the metal parts to make them look like chrome but that is not hard with spray paint.
The price is probably prohibitive though. They want $299 plus $74 shipping.  That price is close to a Dumas wood one on eBay that is similar.
 
I would like to have both but not at that price.  I would like to make another with a white hull.  There is a Lindberg Sport Fisherman boat for $425.  I would like to make that too but I think it is too expensive.  Off all I would like to try my hand at the Dumas Chris Craft Commander.  It is listed at $325 plus $30 shipping.  I just might spring for it and start another log so everyone could watch me crash and burn.  I usually work in plastic.
 

Thanks Ian.  If this boat ever hits the water you will have a big hand in getting it there.

Bob, your model 3150 motors are definitely brushed; if they were brushless they would have three leads.
 
Your post #7 shows your ESC is the "brushed" type, ie for brushed motors.
 
Interesting that everything works with the deck off. All components are therefore good. Sounds like possibly RF interference.
 
I see from your pictures that the leads from ESC to motors are pretty long and loopy. Brushed motors generate a lot of electrical noise as the brushes pass from one coil to another via the commutator; this electrical noise can then be radiated by the long motor leads. I recommend you try soldering small capacitors, say ceramic 0.1uF leaded, right at the motor terminals. This is a classic configuration to reduce noise from brushed motors; one capacitor from each motor power pin to GND (the motor metal case) and a third capacitor between the two motor pins. See this pololu description:
 
https://www.pololu.com/docs/0J15/9
 
As they say, it will also help to twist each pair of motor leads together in a spiral from ESC to motor, so the two wires "cancel" each other's radiated emissions.
 
Finally, and I realize this would affect your trim and ballast, try moving the rear battery up forward beside the other one so its noisy lead isn't near the Receiver and ESC. You could then twist the leads from batteries to ESC for the same reasons.
 
You're very close........eyes on the prize!!   👍
 
 
 
 

I was playing with the transmitter trim and I think I caused the problem.  I had the decks off and everything was working even the rudder servo.
 
When I put the decks on the trouble started.
 
If I replace the ECS what are the specs I an looking for. I think I have brushless motors and the ESC needs to match.
 
The Transmitters have a receiver included.

If the motors are acting like that, it sounds like the ESC turns them on, has an internal protection alarm of some sort (short? overcurrent? temperature? other?), shuts motors off, and waits the "reset period" before trying again. Check the motors are actually 12V not 6V, maybe.
 
Later Edit:  I found a photo on pg1 of your log. The motors are clearly labelled 12V 4.5A; the ESC is quoted as 30A continuous.
 
Are you starting up with throttle at high? Try turning on with throttle at neutral then slowly increase speed and see if motors are ok up to a certain point where problem occurs again. I'm not familiar with those "land" Transmit units with the wheel and trigger which I always associated with cars; I always use aircraft Transmitters.  There must be a separate switch for fwd/reverse then trigger goes from zero to full speed in selected direction?

Strange happenings. I tried to operate the R/C equipment. The Tx and the Rx were bound. Things worked like before when the motors turned in a stop and go, stop and go manner. 
 
Then everything quit.  My volt meter’s batteries were dead.  I will still check the voltage. 
 

I broke off two of the plastic handrail stanchions while working on the electronics. I am a clutz.  That's the reason I haven't finished my Cutty Sark model.  I keep hitting thin plastic parts and braking them off.
I got these metal stanchions on eBay.  They are from an old Marx version of this boat.  It had metal parts but the Lindberg version has them in plastic. 
I sprayed them chrome this time. The davits show what they look like unpainted.

Ian.
Thanks for your help.
I will use my volt motor to check out what you suggested.
You can come here. This is where I live.
IMG_2114.mov

The Tx and the Rx will not bind anymore. There has been a steady disintegration of the working of everything. 
At first the motors would go on and off, on and off when I pulled the trigger on the Tx. The Rx would flash red on and off with the motors. The servo would turn by itself intermittently.  The servo control would not work. Now nothing works.

Bob, it would be worth a little debugging before spending money on a new RC set!
 
The two most likely problems that come to my mind are (1) the ESC somehow burned out, and (2) the RC Tx and Rx are no longer binded for some reason. I'd be surprised if anything is wrong with the Tx or Rx.
 
If the ESC is burned out then it will not supply power to the receiver via the 3-pin "throttle" connection and the boat's innards will be inert. I recall you have a voltmeter at least; with the battery connected to the ESC measure the nominal 5V it should be supplying for the Rcvr. Centre pin is +5V, GND is usually a black wire. If no voltage, it's the ESC.
 
If the Tx and Rx are no longer linked, then the Rx will ignore the Tx and again the boat will be inert. You could test this by connecting any 6V battery to the Rx's "BATT" pins (if you have a spare 3-pin connector with the wires, or cut one). Now that the Rx does not depend on the ESC, test for servo operation. If nothing happens try repeating the binding process. If you're sure they are binding according to the instructions in the TX and Rx manuals, then OK maybe one of them is at fault but again I'd be surprised.
 
Wish I could just pop over to help.....
 
Good luck!

Here is where things stand.  I've worked on the electronics.  Everything is hooked up and nothing works right.
I am going to replace the transmitter and receiver.  They are not too expensive.  If that doesn't fix things I will replace the ESC.  Those are the only possible things that an be fixed. The batteries and the servo are OK.
 
I keep breaking the plastic hand rail stanchions by laying my arm on them while I am working on the electronics.  I have some metal ones coming today.  They are from the old Marx it.  That kit has a lot of metal parts where the Lindberg kit made them in plastic.  If you are looking to build this boat I would suggest getting the Marx kit for the metal parts. There is one on eBay now but they want your first born and your next year's salary for it.   There is a guy on eBay selling the metal parts.  That's were I got mine. I may end up swapping out my plastic rudders for the metal ones I have coming.  The plastic ones seem very precarious hanging down beneath the hull.
 
I have some block and tackle pulleys coming that I will rig the dinghy with.  That dinghy looks fragile hanging out held only by thread,  I also have metal davits I could replace the plastic ones with.  The plastic looks too fragile.
 
So it loos like it will be a week or more before I get it in the water.  There are no hobby shops that sell R/C near me.  The closest one is in LA or San Diego.  I buy most everything on line now.

I added life rings, something all boats like this should have.

He was a bit, wasn't he!

Thanks Shipman
I don't have cancer.  I have more tests to undergo.

In case anyone was interested in the real boats specs.

@thibaultron OMG that is awesome! Also I learned a thing. I'd thus far been unable to find a translation for the modern Danish word "Lot", old Norse "Undirhlutr". This  video taught me the English word "Underlout", which is middle English for "Subordinate".  Thank you for sharing!

Chris, do you mind if I tag along as I have nearly finished my Victory SIB?
Peter vG

Thank you Tomek!

Two single about 4 mm, one double 4 mm. Six belaying pins  - bottom diameter approx. 0.8 millimeters (Belaying pins)
 
Greetings
Tomek

I look forward to your progress Chris, I have the same package ready and hope to learn a lot from you. 17th century ships are in a class of their own.

I haven't checked for blocks, but I have plenty left over from my Wuetender Hund build. I suspect only a handful are needed. As for pins, I suspect the subject predates their widespread use.             

Chris, can you tell what blocks or belaying pins are required to complete the model?