shortgrass

Note: The books by David Antscherl include volumes 1-4.

Unfortunately I am no longer able to ship model due to physical difficulties.  Over the years, I have accumulated a number of books/manuals related to ship modeling.  These will be listed below.  If any of them are of any interest, please contact me and hopefully we can come to an agreement about the sale of the books.  The books are:

- The Fully Framed Model - The Swan Class Sloop 1767-1780 - David Antscherl

-Bomb Vessel Granado and Armed Transport Bounty - Anatomy of the Ship

-Masting and Rigging of English Ships of War -Lees

-English Man of War - Goodwin

-Ship Modeling - Mastini

-History of Ship Models - Wolfram zu Mondfield

-Rigging Period Ship Models -Petersen

-Ship Models Stem to Stern - Roth

-Rigging of Ships (1600-1720) - Andersen

-The Art of Rigging - Biddlecombe

-Plank on Frame Models - vol. 1 and 2 - Underhill

-Masting and Rigging Clipper Ship and Ocean Liners - Undershill

-Seamanship in the Age of Said - John Harland

-Period Ship Kit Builders Manual and The New Period Handbook - Keith Julier

Thanks ccoyle for moving it to the correct area.  I was one of the long time members of the original Model Ship World before it crashed.  It is good to be back again. 

After a long hiatus, I am back at my bench working on the Occre model Essex.  Life has taken me away from ship modelling for the last few years.  I don't have any pictures yet, but must say so far am impressed with the quality of the Occre kit.  The bulkheads fit together very well with the false keel and there was virtually no alterations that had to be made.  I am taking my time with this model (have a tendency to rush ahead).  Will post some pics later.  Feels good to be back.

Thanks for the feedback.  Really appreciated.  I will go with the TItebond.

Starting to plank the deck of the Essex. (whaling ship).  Just curious and would like some opinions.  The instructions say to use contact cement (glue) to adhere to deck planks to the false deck.  I have never done this before - always used Titebond type glue.  Opinions ???

Thanks for the tip Bruce but I think that is above my level.

I am thinking of starting something a little different these days.  I am looking at doing a cross section of a ship.  Looking online I have seen a couple that look kind of interesting.  There is the Corel of HMS Victory and the OCcre of the Santisma Trinidad.  Would appreciate any opinions on these two options and/or any other suggestions.  Thanks.

Am in the process of starting to second plank the hull of the Independence.  I have noticed a number of recommendations about using contact adhesive or super glue to apply the second planking.  I am not keen on using contact adhesive.  Any other recommendations ?

I am about to start planking the hull of my ship.  I have done quite a bit of research trying to find the recommended length of planks for the hull.  I would prefer not to use full length planks but do the planking in a more traditional manner.  Any help would be appreciated.

I am working on an older kit - the USS Independence by A/L  Seeing the mistakes in the kit (and the ones I have made), I am trying to get a better idea of how to approach my next build.

Can someone explain the actual procedure for cutting a bearding line and rabbet line for planking.  I understand the logic for cutting these lines to make the planking lie more evenly and smoothly.   I just have a difficult time understanding how deep to cut the bearding/rabbet lines; how close to the false keel, etc.  Would appreciate any and all feedback.

Will try and post a pic or two.

In addition to the Independence, I am also working  on a model called the Mystique.  It is an older A/L model.   The problem I am having is that the bulwarks have a significant bend to them right out of the box.   My problem is that if I try to plank them length wise I will end up with a number of very thin planks with sharp ends.  My other alternative to plank them vertically which will entail a large amount of small planks.  My question is - are the inner bulwarks normally planked in a vertical or horizontal fashion ?

A little while ago, I managed to get 3 kits for a small price.  I am currently working on the Charles W. Morgan - it is an A/L kit that is approximately 20 years old.  Apparently it came out around 1984.  The instructions, as you imagine are not to-days's standards but are quite detailed.  I will post some pictures in a little while.   Am currently planking the deck which has taken me quite a while.  The Charles W. Morgan was a whaling ship and this is quite a change for me as in the past I have been building British fighting ships.  Will keep you posted.

Thanks Allanyed - that helps a lot.

Okay - now I am getting frustrated !!   I am trying to put the second deck on the ship - as instructed I cut it in half prior to planking some of the deck.   Try as I might, I cannot get the deck to fit onto the main gun deck.  As far as I can tell, there are no instructions/guidance as to how far above the main gun deck the second deck will lie.  Any help would certainly be appreciated.  I got back into ship modelling a little while ago and apart from this difficulty am really enjoying the build.  Thanks.

I am working on the older kit of the HMS Fly and am using a soft pencil to show the caulking between planks.  It is bit of a dirty process and am wondering what other ways are there to show caulking between planks.  Also more efficient methods and more accurate  caulking methods.  Thanks in advance.

Dave

I have started work on the HMS Fly again and am taking my time.  I want to put a rabbet and bearding lines in - particular the rabbet line.  How far from the edge of the false keel should I start the rabbet ?  How deep does one normally make the depth of the rabbet ?  I would really appreciate any assistance  you can give me.  Thanks.

Thanks  Chuck.  That really helps get my head straight about doing the planking.  How do you hold the planks on while the glue is drying ?

This is a short tale of my experience trying to plank the hull of the gunboat William - which is a bit bluff bowed.   The bulkheads are ready for the 1st. planking.  I tried using brass nails, but that did not work - not really happy about using them anyways.  Regular store bought clamps won't work very well.  Have had previous success with "push pins" but the bulkheads on this ship are not very wide - no success this time with the push pins.  Am thinking about getting some "drawing pins" ( metal one with wide head) and see if they will work.  Am getting a little frustrated as until I solve this problem I am stuck.  Was thinking about making some home make planking clamps, but need some guidance.  Don't want to purchase ones as am on a limited budget.   Any help/guidance would be appreciated.

Kit looks awesome Chris.  I do admire the professionalism (such a word ???) and effort you put in to making up these kits.  I look forward to purchasing some of these kits.  Liked the Alert but must say the Speedy is really attractive and am leaning towards that kit.

I am in the process of getting ready top plank the HM William, but unfortunately have discovered that I am a little short on Limewood for the first planking.  Can I use Basswood in conjunction with the LImewood or is it a totallyt different wood ?

Am in the process of building  a couple of ships but have run into a "block" with regard to the William.  As I said a little earlier, I have been away from model ship building for about 10 years and seem to have forgotten the process for making filler blocks for some of the bulkheads bow and stern.  The HMS William is a little bluff in the bow.  Would appreciate any help as I don't want to start planking until I have the fillers in place and the planking has something more substantial to adhere.  Thanks.

Chris - am pretty sure the next kit I order will be from you - either the Alert or whatever comes next.