Chasseur

I had a chance to get in front of some good builders at the Monthly Guild meeting we hold at Maine Maritime Museum every month. Of course lunch is part of the deal.
 
I took several parts and components and described what I was doing and asked a few questions.

Here I l have assembled the main equipment and my tracings of the scroll work at the bow, a few chains a toy anchor etc. here we are looking aft and I asked more about the difference in the two sides of the windless and the fact the photos show the chain on the smooth barrel. Most discussion was all about chain. We talked about sizes and treatment of the typical jewelry chain we all start with. How to make it look real. Also how to make large realistic anchors without casting anything. This is still going to be a challenge. As this phot shows the chain is on the smooth barrel. most we OK with that but uI still need to look firther to find an explanation of the two different side barrels . Back home in the shop I continued working making more pieces. Here is a fun piece. I nested brass square sections, so the ends would be open squares ready to receive the handles. As per photos these handles should be stored loose and not left in place. here the two break "shoes" are lying on,the plywood. They will hang from the brass bracket now in place. here I have progressed and aligned the first three pieces. I noticed the rope winch is sitting backwards in this photo. Here I have set the forward winch on thickened deck beams painted to match. The exception is the black steel drive assemble on white as clearly show in the archive. here I have the chain box and the mast boom supports. At this larger scale I need to add in the edge trim, so I soaked some 1/32" plywood and then clamped it in place to dry to shape. The Laun box is the typical approach I take to size out the ID of deck houses hatched etc and then use that to build the planking sides. In this case i have to remove it because the chain box is empty More to make and progress. The main rope winch legs are clearly black in the survey photos ...and mistake one or really mistake 659. I wanted the thickened deck planks to line up with the deck and the spacing was off, so the top white cross member was shortened about 1/8" remember this goof for a future posting
So let's take a look of how it's coming You can see here I am building up the forward hatch, all for now cheers

Hi Elijah.
 
Yep, but it's not a swimming pool as such; but more like a spa.
 
Regardless, it'd be a great place to relax!
 
Thanks
 
Patrick

This time I had to, finally, to try out the new material for the making of the "sea".
In one of my current project it is very important for me to get a clear sea. At the same time the sea must be filled in layers and is highly desirable that this "layered" was not noticeable. To this end, it was purchased the kit of two-component silicone Encapco K and the set of pigments for him.
 

 
Portions of this silicone need mixed in equal proportions. For coloring necessary to add pigment to component A. Components are quite liquid, as compared with an epoxy resin.
So I added a little bit of blue, green and yellow pigment in a measured amount of component A, mixed thoroughly and got the desired color. Further I separated 60% colored component and mixed with the same amount of component B. The resulting composition I mixed well and filled into the bottle with a syringe with a long nozzle.
 

 

 

 

Yes, Jeff, the wire can be very, very thin compared with the thread. But it seems to me, the use of different diameteres of the wire or threads for the making of the stays and ratlines gives a good visual effect.
 

 

Yes Igor that is the plan. I built the jig mostly for an article I am writing for lone warrior so the ratlines you see here are for a 1:300 scale warship. I am still debating whether to use thread or wire for Preussen's ratlines. If I go with wire then I'll have to use a little different method when attaching them in the bottle.
 
I am just in the final stages of finishing the article for Lone Warrior and then I'll be onto the Preussen full time and looking forward to that en-devour soon.
 
I am also looking at modifying my jig design if I use wire as I will be tinning and soldering the wire. The biggest hurdle is I'll be using very fine wire to keep the lines within scale.

Yes Igor that is the plan. I built the jig mostly for an article I am writing for lone warrior so the ratlines you see here are for a 1:300 scale warship. I am still debating whether to use thread or wire for Preussen's ratlines. If I go with wire then I'll have to use a little different method when attaching them in the bottle.
 
I am just in the final stages of finishing the article for Lone Warrior and then I'll be onto the Preussen full time and looking forward to that en-devour soon.
 
I am also looking at modifying my jig design if I use wire as I will be tinning and soldering the wire. The biggest hurdle is I'll be using very fine wire to keep the lines within scale.

Hah Nils!
 
I just had a little chuckle. Those vents reminded me of a whole bunch of meerkats checking out the view. All standing up straight and facing the same direction.
 
Where's David Attenborough?
 
Nice work, of course!
 
Cheers Patrick

Patrick and Bob
 
You are both as always too kind. I have learned so much from yours and other logs.
 
I agree that this boat is just too big. I have no idea where I will store or show it. I asked for the living room since like many folks we never sit in there any more, but was shot down. Today I completed the main boom.....wow it is like making a table leg.....40 inches long. I shall post it next week
 
time to close up for now
 
cheers

head gear looks even sweeter Rob........very nicely done!   get better my friend.......hope to see you back soon!  

Hi Jeff, Sorry to hear about the health issues. Great work on the jig for the rat lines I can envision some other uses for a devise like this.
 
Michael

I got the first two sets of rat lines started. First shot is overall look. Glued threads on with white glue then an extra secure with hair spray. Used Gem Tack to dollop the dead-eyes. Painted the lines with a flat black wash to get ride of the fuzz's. Used Raw Sienna and Dark Chocolate for dead eyes and Soft Butter to model the cordage between the eyes. A wash of Brown Ink to tone down the yellow a bit but just enough to give some contrast. These will be used for my 1:300 ships for an article I am writing but allowed me some practice for the Preussen. I decided to can the paper dead-eyes and go with Igor Sky's techniques for blocks et al.
 

 
Second shot shows a close up and an number 11 scalpel blade for scale reference. Dead-eyes measure 1.5 mm in diameter.
I am leaning towards using wire for the Preussen and soldering on each individual piece after I tin the lines. That way I can get even smaller in scale. We're entering the watch making trade here! Once I remove them I can trim a little closer and then they're ready to install.
 

 
Just another tricky day in the man cave. Been so busy lately I rarely get into the cave ... Jeff

Yes Igor that is the plan. I built the jig mostly for an article I am writing for lone warrior so the ratlines you see here are for a 1:300 scale warship. I am still debating whether to use thread or wire for Preussen's ratlines. If I go with wire then I'll have to use a little different method when attaching them in the bottle.
 
I am just in the final stages of finishing the article for Lone Warrior and then I'll be onto the Preussen full time and looking forward to that en-devour soon.
 
I am also looking at modifying my jig design if I use wire as I will be tinning and soldering the wire. The biggest hurdle is I'll be using very fine wire to keep the lines within scale.

Yes Igor that is the plan. I built the jig mostly for an article I am writing for lone warrior so the ratlines you see here are for a 1:300 scale warship. I am still debating whether to use thread or wire for Preussen's ratlines. If I go with wire then I'll have to use a little different method when attaching them in the bottle.
 
I am just in the final stages of finishing the article for Lone Warrior and then I'll be onto the Preussen full time and looking forward to that en-devour soon.
 
I am also looking at modifying my jig design if I use wire as I will be tinning and soldering the wire. The biggest hurdle is I'll be using very fine wire to keep the lines within scale.

Many thanks, Daniel, for your words of support!
 
After returning from vacation, I proceeded directly to the manufacturing phase of the sea and move the model into the bottle.
Bottle has been selected and prepared a long time ago. And the first thing I did was the exactly define volume of the future "sea".
 

I got the first two sets of rat lines started. First shot is overall look. Glued threads on with white glue then an extra secure with hair spray. Used Gem Tack to dollop the dead-eyes. Painted the lines with a flat black wash to get ride of the fuzz's. Used Raw Sienna and Dark Chocolate for dead eyes and Soft Butter to model the cordage between the eyes. A wash of Brown Ink to tone down the yellow a bit but just enough to give some contrast. These will be used for my 1:300 ships for an article I am writing but allowed me some practice for the Preussen. I decided to can the paper dead-eyes and go with Igor Sky's techniques for blocks et al.
 

 
Second shot shows a close up and an number 11 scalpel blade for scale reference. Dead-eyes measure 1.5 mm in diameter.
I am leaning towards using wire for the Preussen and soldering on each individual piece after I tin the lines. That way I can get even smaller in scale. We're entering the watch making trade here! Once I remove them I can trim a little closer and then they're ready to install.
 

 
Just another tricky day in the man cave. Been so busy lately I rarely get into the cave ... Jeff

Thanks guys for the comments...  
 
Here is another batch as we are still  catching up with the posts. I am not too far ahead any more and soon will be posting in real time.   Today we will see progress on the hull decoration.
 
From time to time we need to clean up and touch up the hull.  This presents a problem that I have because I need a painting process that I can do in the shop or in the field so to speak.  That means water based acrylics from the local hardware store.   You can see in details  [ and it frustrates me] that the application of bondo putty and sanded to 600 grit finish actually gets worse with added coats of paint.  Case in point to follow here below.
 
for the outside decorations, first we must decide what we are trying to replicate and then find a way.  lets talk first about the cove.
 
 Here again an image from the Nova Scotia archive.  The cove looks like an applied piece with two Ogee curves ....raised "lips ...all painted light [i assume yellow.  

 
  Another NS Archive photo...here on the stern, if you zoom way on there is no such detail.  the lower edge of the thicker plank is obviously black.  I came to the conclusion that the two "lips or one lip and plank would have been black and only the inside would have yellow.  all the practicums etc describe the piece as a cove so unlike Charles Notman larger schooner I can't simply paint a piece and glue it on.   My scale is large and it is very difficult to paint.
 
 Just to continue the research, here is one shot from Bluenose ll that agrees with my conclusion of the aft detail on the bluenose.  This photo is the justification I am using for my current solution.
 
  this detail however disagrees and shows the two lips to be yellow...what to do.

I could take a 3/16" by 1/16" strip and pull it or file it to try to put and extrude mill work.  I suspect the small size and soft grain would be a problem. Styrene my work but I have yet to ever use it. 
 
 here I tried process of placing a yellow racing stripe and then putting black tape over it.  I did not like this at all.  Plus as alluded to above I hated the paint that comes through in the photo more clearly than to the eye.  I took both sides after this photo and sanded, re puttied, sanded and painted again.
 
here after refinishing the outside hull again I chose to follow  the Bodbar practicum.   I have installed the yellow racing strip and it is crisp and looks ok.  If I every find a material to make the millwork cove however I may try to redo this.    
The "filigree" or whatever it's called is another interesting thing. The Eisnor plan was traced scanned and scaled and that is what I have taped to the hull. Interestingly, the pattern on Bluenose ll is smaller.    In the first photo of this posting above when one zooms way in , it is clear this was carved and not applied.  I plan to first try to pin prick the pattern and use sharpie yellow pen to create.  If this does not work I was told to go to Joann and find ear ring filigree that matched as closely as possible, spray it yellow and glue it on. I prefer not to apply something here because it will literally stick out like  yellow filigree.     
 here is a view that shows the side including the chain plates and the cove stripe. I used brass strips and pins.
 
 here is a shot across the deck to pick up the chain plates ready for stropped dead eyes
 
 I though I would show you now the pop out deck for the rudder access.  This will be covered up some by the steering box.

 
 Here it is open.  

 

Hi Jond:
 
These last posts were very enlightening for me. I've bookmarked this page now so when it comes (in the very far future) to making my deck gear I can emulate (on a smaller scale) your methods. To be honest one of the things that has been giving me "nightmares" (aside from my children becoming teenagers) is the metal work for Bluenose - and particularly the winch gear, etc. But your approach has opened my eyes to some possibilities beyond the suggestions given by Gene Bodnar in the BN practicum - which I was going to follow, but (all respect to Mr Bodnar) I think your way produces nicer results. Thanks again! 
hamilton

For this next installment of deck equipment, I want to divert to the issue I had with the deck color.  Like most folks these are parallel efforts, so we shall continue the story that way. Sort of multitasking
 
 
 
 I think I have figured out my approach to the equipment, so lets start to put it together and see what we need to do. Here we see the block forms I made for the engine box and tool box and unpainted gears.  
here is my first attempt with the intermediate drive gear.  I quickly learned I needed to replicate the steel frame and reduce the shaft size as it will attach to the tool box. this large 1/8" wood dowel shaft is convenient for the ID of the gears but wrong.    
here I am starting to build up cabin and hatches.  [ too much deck shine}  
  Lets put the windless on deck and think about sequencing.[ too much deck shine]  
 I love this view.  
 
 You can see I am playing with the fuel tanks aft of the main mast that showed up in the 1940 survey photos   
 
 while working on the forward hatch, I realized I had made the skylight too big.  I changed out the luan building block and needed new decking.  here it is just basswood [ blond].  
 here you can see the cherry stain that gets the warm look we need.  
 here you can see [ despite the flash] the affect of aging the walnut stain provides.  Also note this is a matte stain only finish.    
I put on just the satin and it looked different.  so to match it in I had to build up three coats of spar again then satin.  It looked like the rest but   TOO MUCH SHINE!!!  
 Here I bit the bullet and really sanded everything.  The risk and result is I hit high points exposing the light wood and needed to tone that down.  
 here it is all sanded and ready to come back  
here I had added a satin old maple Minwax poly shade to grab the blond areas and bring all more together.   My logic was I thought to use two step stain now with so much varnish still on the  just sanded deck would be a waste of time.  I  need a thicker finish for outside use than a static model and to  get on with things this coat should help.  I thought it worked out ok.  
 here we are with another 2 coats of satin poly.  It still shines but is better than befgore and I need to move on  
back to the fittings and hull
here you can see the combined copper rings and nylon cut gear getting painted out to be the main windless break.  
 alright ...I did it ...two rings for the the aft hawse;  hammered copper joined and soldered before installing.    
all for now cheers 
 
 

Thanks so much guys, your input is always welcome.
 
No problem Ken!
 
Welcome to my build Mike, glad to have you.
 
Well I must have not fit something right when I assembled the carriages. I saw that the axles did not stick out past the trucks.  I sanded a toothpick to the same diameter as the axle, drilled out the existing axles a little and glued the toothpick in and trimmed off to the right length. Used a very small twist drill to make holes for cotter pins. Because of the small scale I just used splinters of wood for the cotter pins. Looking at other builds and the diagrams of these guns in Ship Modeling from Stem to Stern by Milton Roth I made some effort to add some more small details like bolts, ring cotters, etc. to make them look a little better. Mine don't look as nice and smooth as the others who have done this but at this scale it looks ok until you blow up the pictures. There is still some minor clean-up to be done and there was a lot of very fine sawdust clinging to these in the pictures from the surfaces they were sitting on.
 
Jesse
 

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 179 – Swinging Boom Hardware
 
Another small detailing chore.
 
The primary purpose of the lower studdingsail booms, commonly called swinging booms in this period, were to secure the feet of the studding sails sometimes used on either side of the foresail, and less commonly outside the mainsail.  These booms were also sometimes deployed in port for the mooring of small boats.  I expect to store two of these booms on the cabin deck skid beams and include hardware to support them on the fore channels only.  The first picture shows the iron brackets at each end the port fore channel.
 

 
The forward bracket is simply an iron bar with a hole to accept a gooseneck at the end of the boom.  At the aft end of the channel is an iron cradle to support the boom when fitted but not extended.  Both fittings are bolted through the channels.  The next picture shows one set of roughly formed fittings.
 

 
The support bracket to the right is being formed in the next picture, beginning with the bending of a right angle.
 

 
After bending the brass strip, it is hammered in the vise to form a sharp angle.  The round cradle at the end was then formed as shown in the next picture.
 

 
The end of the strip is left long to facilitate bending of the curve.  The bracket at the bottom of the picture has two bolts fitted.  In the next picture a fitting is set up for soldering of the bolts.
 

 
The bolts were then filed off and the pieces finish filed and buffed, pickled, degreased and blackened.  The last picture shows the starboard fore channel with the brackets installed.
 

 
 
Ed

Yeah I had the same, still on the mend and I missed three days of work. Get lots of rest Rob!
Take care ... Jeff

Happy Birthday Nils and good to see the Brass Meister is back at it!
Blessings on your day*

Yeah I had the same, still on the mend and I missed three days of work. Get lots of rest Rob!
Take care ... Jeff

Yeah I had the same, still on the mend and I missed three days of work. Get lots of rest Rob!
Take care ... Jeff

Hi Bill,
 
presume you mean the rims of the skylight panel lids....
The rims are made by inserting 2,5 ² mm lead sockets (for conduct wire ends) through the drilled holes in the brass panel, and soldering these to the panel. The German word is "Aderendhuelsen", sorry do`n t know the engl. term. I also used these for all the hull`s portholes
The remaining end at the rearside is then cut off, The skylight ports remain without "glassings"
 
Nils