lamarvalley

I don't know how I missed this build log but until today I did. Great read and good info... except for the funeral parts of course. Sorry to hear of so many losses... my condolences to you and your wife   Here's to improved karma for the future 
 
Now, i hate to say it and sound like... well.... someone else... but where are the most recent planking pics. Enquiring minds and all that... 

I don't know how I missed this build log but until today I did. Great read and good info... except for the funeral parts of course. Sorry to hear of so many losses... my condolences to you and your wife   Here's to improved karma for the future 
 
Now, i hate to say it and sound like... well.... someone else... but where are the most recent planking pics. Enquiring minds and all that... 

Congrats!!! Clear a space on the shelf.... pop a bottle of something and celebrate. She is done and done well. Good job!   

In my planking, I fair the hull first, then I take a strip of masking tape and lay it on a frame. I will do a separate piece of tape for each frame, so any frame will be good to start. I mark the upper edge of the sheer strake (maybe the wale on a larger ship) and the lower edge where the garboard strake fits into the keel rabbet. Once the extremities are marked, I take the tape off and lay it out on the bench flat. The space between the two marks is what must be filled with planking on that frame.
 
Now, let us say I want 16 strakes of planking in the hull. I use a pair of proportional dividers to break the space on the tape into two equal parts. Once I have two equal parts, I break both parts into 8 parts. The proportional dividers will divide up to 10 increments. Once the 8 parts above and below that first break are marked, I have 16 equal parts marked on the tape. Now, I replace the tape on the frame, being careful to place it exactly where it was when I marked it the first time. I place it so that there is a little frame exposed so I can transfer the marks from the tape to the frame. I repeat this process for each frame, as well as the bow rabbet and again in the stern. Make sure you label each piece of tape.
 
Once all the marks are on the model, I have width of each plank marked.
 
Now I can spile the first plank, either at the sheer line or at the keel. Usually I begin at the sheer line. I use poster board to create the templates for my planks. If I am doing the forward most plank on the sheer line, I cut the poster board so that it slightly longer than the plank I am shaping and maybe twice as wide. I want to rough cut the poster board so that the bow end will be a rough fit. You can tape it into place on the model if that helps you.
 
Spiling is nothing more than transferring a curved line from the model onto a piece of planking material. hold the poster board up to the sheer line and on the back side trace the line along the deck onto the poster board. That is the upper edge of the plank. I cut the poster board to that curve. Now I have the shape of the upper edge of the plank. I hold the poster board back in place and mark where the frames fall along its length. Next I measure the width of that plank using the marks I made earlier. I transfer those marks on to the poster board template where I marked the frame centers. Now I connect those marks and I cut the poster board to that line. That is the lower edge of the plank. I have a template for the plank.
 
I can place that template onto a piece of wood and trace around the edges and then use a scalpel to cut the plank out. I cut leaving the pencil line so I can sand and fit the plank into its position on the hull.
 
You can use the poster board template to get the shape of the upper edge of each plank in the hull. Just tape a poster board template on the frames below the plank above leaving some open space, maybe 1/4" or so between the lower edge of the preceding plank and your poster board template. Take a compass and run the metal point along the lower edge of the plank above and the pencil will mark that curve onto the poster board. You can place a mark at each frame location and that will be plenty. Connect your marks and cut the poster board to that curve. Check the fit against the lower edge of the plank. Once it is good, then mark your frame centers and measure the plank widths to get the lower edge of your new plank.
 
I like to spile and taper every plank in the hull, but it will not always be necessary, depending on the hull form. Some planks will be mostly straight and can be gently teased into a subtle edge bent curve. Experience will tell you when to taper and when you can get away with a short cut.  
 
I hope this helps you.
 
Russ

Finally... pictures! And nice ones too... well done Sjors... 

Looking good Randy, I know how much work the rigging is. 
 
I'm not sure what you mean but I think you meant this, sorry but my english language is not great. See the picture. 
 

Looking good Randy, glad to see you're getting it figured out....

Finally... pictures! And nice ones too... well done Sjors... 

Because I post picture in the log of the San Ildefonso, also pictures in this log   
 

Here are the promise pictures....
 

For my two cents worth i can hardly add much to Adelines' response as she hit most of the points that I would bring up. Aesthetics are key to the builder and I for one am building for my pleasure first and for accuracy second. I am not that experienced a builder to think 'museum quality' so I can be flexible about being true to the original.
There is a saying here on MSW... your ship, your decisions. For most this is a hobby to enjoy with color schemes and various kit/scratch build alterations (bashing) left to the shipwright.

Yeah, very impressive! Not only do they look great but they function too!   Theo sets a very high bar.

Wow.. Thank you all for the reactions and for following this build
.. it is inspiring and it is really appreciated ..
 
After having blackened all the hinges, I continued with the hatches, they are cut out of a block of sandwiched mahogany fineer & black paper.
 

 
I only made a few eyes and some “L” shaped hooks at this stage to see if my theory will hold.
 

 
As for the nails.. 
A few “old processors” (socket 370) were sold on ebay for a couple of euro’s (they are obviously getting sold out there for recycling of their gold)
Anyway I will have enough nails for several future builds to come..
 

 
Today I made a serie of 4 hatches (to time the “production line).
The hatches themselves are pretty quick to make, but it takes time to install them.
I need to fine tune each hatch so it will fit inside the frame and “cut out” the frames so the hinges and the “L hooks” can be installed
 
So here’s the result .. (only a 100 left to build..) 
 

 

 

 

 

Nice build so far Randy.

Hi Randy, sorry about the computer.....always bad news.....pictures look great.  I like the color of the yards...very nice

Looking forward to the lighted finished version. I'm sure you are too 

Saturday, November 2, 2013
 
Probably I will not publish new progresses in next fortnight, so I add now a bit of new images, shot this time with the traditional photo camera instead of the smartphone.
 
There are small changes from the last published: I reinforced all over the gunwale which now looks very strong (one of my fixations ..) and I covered with planks the small area of the deck just over the well-known element 46b I added later.
 
.01
 
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High Resolution Images:
01 http://i58.servimg.com/u/f58/12/86/14/83/p1090617.jpg
02 http://i58.servimg.com/u/f58/12/86/14/83/p1090618.jpg
03 http://i58.servimg.com/u/f58/12/86/14/83/p1090624.jpg
04 http://i58.servimg.com/u/f58/12/86/14/83/p1090620.jpg
05 http://i58.servimg.com/u/f58/12/86/14/83/p1090621.jpg
06 http://i58.servimg.com/u/f58/12/86/14/83/p1090622.jpg
07 http://i58.servimg.com/u/f58/12/86/14/83/p1090625.jpg

Oh man Theo, I love watching you figure things out and then produce fine products such as these. It all has to take a while to do 208 of them, fantastic.... I gotta bookmark this page. Great job! 

I think we all understand life and how "in the way" it can get.  It always seems to have other plans.  Great to hear you are on the plus side of the med situation - that is always a good thing!!

Randy it is good to hear that the tribulations of life are resolving well and that your mind is at a level of peace that you can again focus on your model,
 
Michael

A day or two....
Let's see, that thursday or friday......
Ok, I'll wait for that !
 

I'm glad things are returning to normal for you Randy.  Life has it's many distractions, some annoying and some downright scary.  Some folks take solace in their projects.  Others, like me, can't focus during those periods and need to resolve what's going on first.
 
In any case, welcome home.  Looking forward to your progress.

I've been pretty quiet of late due to dead computers and other obligations and such but I've been lurking and your Aggie is looking splendid Mobbsie. Those 4 little boats are amazing and show you've a very talented builder. Very nice Sir! 

Impressive work Popeye and an approach which I will take on the next build. The san fran is my training vessel.... I'll make it work but like so many aspects it is more after thought than planning. That's okay, that's what this is about... learning and adapting.
 
Robbyn, I like your thought of structural bulwark building of the pinracks... might be another thing to think about when ship number 2 gets underway...  . It would certainly seem to hold up to the tension of the rigging if it were part of the whole rather than an add on .... hmmm...

....
 
For large and more detail photos see also: http://www.flickr.com/photos/ilhan_gokcay/sets http://www.flickr.com/photos/ilhan_gokcay/sets/72157626433922489 http://www.flickr.com/photos/ilhan_gokcay/sets/72157626433922489/page16