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Gender
Male
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Location
Sydney, Australia
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Interests
We own a small classic yacht - a gaff sloop - which is excellent for day use & racing also. Cherub gets lots of use.
I enjoy fishing & used to surf a lot. These days I'm a family man but we sail together.
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Mark Pearse reacted to a post in a topic: La Lomellina by Louie da fly - scale 1:100 - Theoretical Reconstruction of a Genoese carrack sunk in 1516
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Mark Pearse reacted to a post in a topic: La Lomellina by Louie da fly - scale 1:100 - Theoretical Reconstruction of a Genoese carrack sunk in 1516
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Hi Steve, Nice work on the wheels. Looking at the photos, the scolloped edge is fabric rather than rigid, so perhaps paper. Cutting that shape will be difficult though. I wonder if there's a craft scissors that do it, like the zig-zag ones but curved....Spotlight are good for stuff like this & just might have it.
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FriedClams reacted to a post in a topic: 21' Fisherman's Launch by vaddoc - Scale 1:10 - Plans from Howard Chapelle's "Boatbuilding"
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Mark Pearse reacted to a post in a topic: Golden City by Louie da fly - Scale 1:50 and 1:25 - solid hull - Paddlewheeler
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Onwards... I have glued both gunwales to the hull, & the port side sponson. The timber has about 4 coats of brown-orange shellac, finished with steel wool. I will give them another go before painting. The plywood deck had a prominent change in colour of the veneers at the height the top edge needed to be, below the deck line. For the gluing, I had swallowed my pride & decided on CA glue, as I didn't want to put any mechanical fixings through the timber as I couldn't see a good way to hide them, & using CA did allow just enough time to make sure the strips were accurately placed. The sponson-gunwale relationship is critical to the appearance, so errors were just not on. The port side sponson went on quite easily yesterday, & I had a go at the starboard side, which didn't go well... I was fighting some twist in the timber & was struggling to get a good bond with the load of that twist. I've learned that with CA, you need to get a good bond first time if you can, & the struggle had gone on too long. So, I pulled it off & set up the heat bending frame with an inbuilt twist....It's not much twist, but these native hardwoods have strong opinions & this one needed more encouragement. You can see from the pencil line on the bench that the brackets were repositioned & the upper legs bent. So the sponson is in the same basic curve ....just with some twist. It's now clamped, heated (heat gun) & on the clamps for for a day. Tomorrow, I'll sand off the dried CA glue from both surfaces (vip in my experience) & try again.
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Thank you, all very helpful. I'll probably use epoxy glue rather than CA, & pin the timbers in position so they don't slide & set in the wrong position - which would be bloody terrible..... Then spot fill the pin holes. I'll research some suitable pins. Hi Ronald, thank you - the planking looks good at least partly as they are pre-cut & therefore constant width rather than tapered. The actual yacht is strip-planked (ie: wood/epoxy composite using narrow constant width planks, with fibreglass & epoxy resin over), & the model is following that in the planking.
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Hi Andy I'm no guitar expert, but that's a gorgeously classic shape. Understated & well proportioned indeed....
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Hi All, I am building a 1:20 model of a small yacht. The hull topsides will be painted (black) & there's a gunwale & sponson on the topsides. The gunwale, at scale, is about 1.5 x 4.5mm, the sponson about 4 x 7mm. The setout of the sponson is important to the whole look of the yacht, so needs to be accurate. I can paint first, then glue the timber , or glue then paint. In the first case, painting is easier as there's less cutting in; in the second, getting the sponson setout right is easier. I'm posting this here to get some advice on this. I am probably painting with a brush. thank you all in advance...
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The current progress is towards painting the hull. Concurrent with the work below, I am working on some test panels for a hull paint - but just a little on my thinking: black shows gloss more than other colours, & as a gloss object at scale will look more real if the gloss level on the model is less than the actual...I'm going to be a bit fussy on that. The sponsons need a bit of assistance to make the curve of the hull shape, & fortunately Blackbutt respond to some heat reasonably well. My method was to scribe the hull shape on the bench, adding a bit more curve to the shape. Set up some angle brackets, clamp the middle one & heat sections (with a hot air gun) away from the middle & progressively clamp them. I suspect this isn't as good as actually making a small steam box & then clamping, partly because you haven't got much of an idea what effect the heat is having on the timber. Anyway, it worked well. I also gave one half of the gunwale the same treatment & then put them on the hull in a temporary way. That's partly so they have somewhere to stay while retaining the curve. Looks great. The last part of the sponson near the stern droops a bit, but that can be tweaked later. One aspect I'm not sure about, & would certainly welcome opinions: whether to paint the hull then glue the sponsons / gunwales, or glue them & then paint the hull. Painting is easier in the first case, getting the timber strips accurately positioned is easier in the second. I am leaning ever so slightly towards the latter. It would be good to get whatever opinions I can, from you all.... I'll also do a post on the in the paint section of this forum... thanks in advance,
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A little more.... The sponsons are now shaped. Below is the method I use for holding the strips while shaping, & my tools of choice; which works for 1:12 but techniques that work at this scale obviously might be an issue for much smaller scales. The back of the sanding block is 240 grit, & I have some finer (the softness of fingers helps sand curves), also some fine steel wool. Here's the strips: 2x 700mm lengths of sponson, 1x 1m of gunwale (a thin coat of shellac, hence the colour).
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I decided the next major job is to paint the hull, & before that I have to make & position the gunwales & sponsons. In particular, the sponson line is important to the hull's appearance, & must be just right. It's mainly about the tapering gap above the sponson, between it & the gunwale. Hence the need to do both. The gunwale position will be a constant distance below the deck line but the sponson is tricky. My plan is to use brass pegs as dowels to fix the final position, put them aside & install after the hull is painted. On the actual yacht, the timberwork around the cockpit is teak, varnished or unfinished; & the hull timberwork is Spotted Gum - a tough hardwood that steam bends well. On the boat they have faded somewhat so I have used some Blackbutt that I have, a length of floorboard from a building site. I ripped some strips off on a table saw & then used a well sharpened plane to bring the timber sizes down further, & then to shape them. The strip on the left is a future gunwale, about 2.5 x 4mm. And shaped, finely sanded & one coat of shellac wiped on. I'll do some more coats later. Below are the future sponsons, about 4 x 5.5mm.
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