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Mark Pearse
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Ranger type yacht by Mark Pearse - 1:12 - SMALL
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Ranger type yacht by Mark Pearse - 1:12 - SMALL
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Thanks John, & best wishes. I'll put a coat of shellac on the mast soon & we'll see if the glue joint is less visible. I'm starting on the metalwork, beginning with some easier stuff, which reminded me of some techniques, the main one being: capillary action will flow the solder provided there's sufficient heat where you want it to flow to. The four jib tracks are done, & I just had enough of the smaller sections of brass for these. I'm still confounded by the changes in the K&S range, to drop out so many smaller sections. The base part of the tracks was thinned a bit by sanding them - they are still a bit thick but look ok. I'll probably give them another sand later.... The subtle line down the centre lengthways is on most metal jib tracks, & I put it on as one of the "delicate" details. I think that if you include a few of these in a model it can give an overall effect that you think there's more detail than there actually is. More cleaning up later & then the tinning finish (thanks again Wefalck).
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Pomeranian Rahschlup 1846 by wefalck – 1/160 scale – single-masted Baltic trading vessel
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Ranger type yacht by Mark Pearse - 1:12 - SMALL
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Ranger type yacht by Mark Pearse - 1:12 - SMALL
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I've started on the model base, as it will take some time so I'll start now & do concurrent with the model itself. The mast timber had a dark stain, possibly ok, but I decided to patch, using the same technique I'd use for full size. The glue is visible, but I think it will reduce when the shellac finish goes on. The base will be a scale section of a concrete hardstand area of a boat yard, so stains etc. The overall base is plywood, treated with thinned epoxy to help reduce warping, then undercoated, sanded etc. The lines are joints in the concrete, & there will of course be cracks. And .... getting a but arty ... some thick undercoat with a spike to do more cracking. And some random blobs of undercoat. I'm looking at mineral paint for the concrete, it's interesting stuff - but importantly the finish is flat & hard. And I think a good base for weathering, if I can find a colour I'm happy with. thanks,
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Le Gros Ventre 1767 by woodrat - Scale 1:48 - POF - French exploration vessel
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Große Jacht 1679 by Baker - Corel - 1:50 - modified model from the Yacht D'Oro kit
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Brass stock in small sections....?
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Mark Pearse reacted to a post in a topic:
Brass stock in small sections....?
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Brass stock in small sections....?
Mark Pearse replied to Mark Pearse's topic in Metal Work, Soldering and Metal Fittings
what sort of saw blade is used for cutting brass? -
Mark Pearse reacted to a post in a topic:
Brass stock in small sections....?
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Mark Pearse reacted to a post in a topic:
Brass stock in small sections....?
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Mark Pearse reacted to a post in a topic:
Brass stock in small sections....?
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Hi John yes I did, & got some brass flat strips from them - at 6mm or 1/4 width. I can use a sanding block to reduce a small amount of that, to say 5 or 4mm width. As a follow-up, I did get some brass square C channel via eBay (3 x 1mm, 300 long) by Albion Alloys UK, the shipping hurt but I'll recover......
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The strips I'm after are in the width range 2-6mm, & thickness range 0.5-1mm. It's very surprising, as you'd think these would be used a hell of a lot. I dug out every scrap I could find & in most cases I can make the scraps work: for jib tracks, chain plates etc. I was going to use some 3 x 1mm squared C channel as a mast track, but that's not available from K&S, I found a seller of Albion Alloys (UK), but the cost of shipping makes it v expensive. I'll try eBay I suppose,
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Brass stock in small sections....?
Mark Pearse replied to Mark Pearse's topic in Metal Work, Soldering and Metal Fittings
Thank you all for the responses. K & S don't seem to have any rectangular strips (aka flat bar) narrower than 1/4". I believe I was looking at their store website. And thanks also for the guillotine suggestion, I hadn't realised that can work. I went right to the bottom of the scraps box & I can largely work with what I have in bits & pieces, except for the square C channel 3 x 1mm nom. I'll think about some alternatives, including eBay. -
I'm planning the metalwork & ....!!!! the smaller sizes of brass flat bar don't seem to be available. 6mm (1/4") width seems to be the minimum width - but a mere 5 years ago the range was much greater. It's kind of shocking. any suggestions?
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Brass flat bar in sizes below 1/4" width seems to have vanished.... Does anyone have any recent experience of buying smaller sizes? 2-5mm widths, in thicknesses like 0.5, 1, 1.5, 2mm. any suggestions extremely welcome
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that's great, well done indeed
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Hi Vaddoc If there's a conflict in the information, the approach I take is to work out which aspect of the information to give priority to & which one to adjust. In the case of a conflict between the hull shape & the profile of the stem, I would likely prioritise the hull shape & allow the stem profile to adjust. (The stem profile will still be close, as unless there's an error the amount of adjustment should be minor). I encourage you to be decisive on this sort of choice....what would a boat builder do....? I would add that in some respects CAD is a double-edged sword. Its precision can make it look like the situation is worse than it really is. If we were still working with pencils, a lot of conflicts would be within the thickness of a line, or within the manual tolerances of draughting.
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One detail that had been bothering me was the winches I purchased, for the running backstays & the mast halyards - nice but technically not very good. Steve from this forum (Bedford) kindly offered to assist & turned up some flanges perfectly to size, the difference is wonderful. They will be soldered together & tinned (thank you Welfack) the winches before: and after (now that's a winch): happy days....
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Hi Patrick I'm curious - the leeboards are massive, & unless I'm missing something the plate behind that supports them isn't very large & is only at the top - so the leverage on the top part of the board & the mechanism, at times, must be huge. It just looks quite surprising that this amount of structure & support is enough.... Any reflections of yours on this would be interesting to hear. thanks,
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Some more details on the boil: The tiller is underway, & either finished or nearly there. Possibly another coat or two of shellac, the actual tiller is an aged piece of hardwood, so would be good to give it some of that character. The bowsprit & spinnaker pole are underway, here they are tapered & cut to length: I will do the pole, including end fittings primarily in timber. The actual pole is unfinished carbon fibre , so satin black, & the ends unfinished cast alloy of some sort. The basic details of the end fittings are roughed out, & since the photos the ends were treated with some CA glue to harden the timber & avoid splitting when cutting the beaks. To replicate carbon fibre, I rubbed the pole with black paint, with no undercoat. It's looking ok, so a gentle sand & another coat might do the trick. To help articulate the joint at the end fittings of the pole, I did a groove by rolling the pole under the blade of a craft knife, they have a nice straight long blade.
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thank you both, & I also like that contrast between varnished timber & the weathered timber
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Hi Steve, that would be fantastic - as a guide they will be around 9mm diameter, if that's not too small for your equipment, with a hole in the centre. I'll confirm later via a personal message.
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