ChrisLBren

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I've made, installed and rigged the four guns that I'm mounting on the quarterdeck. Once again, I used the cast kit gun barrels and modified Lumberyard pear gun carriages. The barrels were filed, the bores drilled out and brass rings added for the breach rope. The blocks and rigging line were again from Chuck.
 
I also added the belaying pins to the various pin rails after blackening the brass pins from the kit. Lastly, I added the eyebolts at the base of the main and mizzen masts. The remaining quarterdeck items are the upper main capstan, the ladder and railing at the ladder way, the mizzen topsail sheet bitts and the wheel assembly. These will all be done next.
 
Bob

Minor milepost... all the full frames have been cut, installed and spacers added.  The five broken ones have been replaced along with slapping myself upside the head when I realized two of them could have been repaired.   
 
I've started "pre-fairing" in that I'll sand it pretty close to fair except for the frames at the end, get the keel and keelson notches flat and fair, and then tweek the keel's rabbet to account for the changes the garboard strake will have to follow.  I'm also sorting out the inboard side as far as fairing.  The end frames will be faired in once the keel and keelson are installed and the cant frames are done. 
 
And yes, it continues to be a fun ride.
 

Why scratch?
I always had a high requirements for a wood quality and fitting quality. Unfortunately, even expensive kits were never that close. After getting a first pack of boxwood, I would never go back to any inferior wood. Hence, only scratch. Not that scary though, I do most of the parts from scratch anyway.
It's a pity that kit producers do not offer a wood upgrade. For a serious build, cost is spreading over a number of years, so is it really so important?
Speed of the build is not important, I enjoy the process. As Remco says - "Treat each part as if it is a model on its own, you will finish more models in a day than others do in a lifetime".
 
Why Hahn?
For a weird reason, don't like the realistic framing style, like David Antscherl suggests. First - you don't see anything between frames, and second - uneven spacing and shape of frames make me feel dizzy when I look on them. Physically. I know it sounds weird, but I just can't. So - frames would be spaced evenly, even if it's unrealistic. So what, I'm not adding a rocket engines to my model
Also, Hahn's method for a frame construction looks easier. Yes, the wood usage is higher, but again - why that matters? I will build it for 5 years at least, so paying a bit extra for additional wood is not a problem. And I truly like the design of Hahn's jig!
 
Why Beavers Prize / Oliver Cromwell?
This ship has no honorable history. It was built in 1777 in Philadelphia, started a pretty good career - capturing 7 ships in 3 months after a start - but then was defeated by british HMS Beaver. Was downgraded from 24 cannons to 12, and served remaining time guarding british coast. Died in a hurricane after a number of years, slowly degrading and having a continuous problems with discipline onboard.
But there is something in the lines of that ship that touches me. Look on the model - hull proportions are pretty nice. It's not too high, and not too low, and I was looking for that photos a lot, admiring its beauty:
 

 

Hi all,
 
I am about to start the French 64 Canon ship L'Artesien. I will build this ship pararell to Le Rivoli, as I want to have the opportunity to change between Projects, when I am stuck with one, or change between the two according to what's on my mind.
 
I was thinking about how to approach these two projects. It was clear to me that I didn't want to build open frame models. I do like the look, but I am scared about the time consumption, because I love to have a perspective on when projects come to a successful end.
 
Having said that, there was still to decide which route to go. In the end I think it will be a mixture of the russian bulkhead method and my own ideas. See how it goes.
 
L'Artesien will be fully rigged with most her sails set. More or less like the model shown in the Musee de la Marine., Paris.
I will post updates and let you know how I am getting on.
 

I'll never understand you kit bashers(smile). It's easier just to scratch build if you don't want to build out of box with the materials you've already paid for as part of the kit.

prepared the mast collar

Hello friends,
completed Upper-Deck  equipped, including Longboat half as a cross section model.
Regards Karl      
 
 
 
T e i l  4 9

Thanks so much Scott.
 
Just returned from a trip up north to see the kids and grandkids and to attend my 50th law school reunion. Had a great time, but happy to get back to Essex.
 
I've completed the waist deck framing. The construction followed the materials and procedures used for the other deck framing ( all of which has been previously described ). With this step, all of the upper deck framing is now done. I've included a full profile photo of the model to this point. The next work will be the limited deck planking to be done in the waist.
 
Bob
 
 

After a little absence,I have something of an update.Aside from very little time,my broadband connection is giving me grief   Either lightning fast or more commonly working at a snails past.I shall contact my provider and give them what for when in the right frame of mind.
Anyway,half the deck planked,given a scrape and light sand and then a couple of coats of poly to prevent glue marks whilst working on the other side.I have moved away from shellac as firstly,I like the variation of tones and secondly it means I can use my acrylic ageing techniques should I choose.I am ,due to the pleasing appearance,considering NOT treenailing and risk spoiling the effect.
The other side of the hull is now built and shaped so my next job is to sort the upper gunport frames on this side.
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

I've posted this ship on my Confederacy log as well - I agree Karl - perfect ship and will use this log when I make my attempt at her.  

A minor milestone -- work on the gun deck is complete. I have made, installed and rigged the last four guns, added their deck ringbolts and made and installed the jeer capstan, the second of the three required capstans. I also tied the line for the main course tacks to their bulwark cleats.
 
The guns were done the same way as all the others (very glad to be done with them). The capstan was done in boxwood, with a pear cap The pawls (stops) were also made from boxwood, painted black and added to the deck.
 
Next up will be the deck framing for the gangboards (midship decking).
 
Bob

Thank you very much indeed Alistair   I am glad that I have moved away from my preferred boxwood for the deck.It was upon seeing a fine model of la Salamandre on other site by a professional French builder that made the decision.The warm glow of the finished pear against the ebony swung it for me   The only boxwood used was for the carvings.I am hoping that any dramatic colour variation will be toned down with the shellac(another first and learning curve for me   ).
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Hi Tom,
I will be watching your progress as well - wishing you the best.  I also own this Monograph and hope to start her next year - in 1/36th scale.
Chris

Hi Jay,
My process with pure Tung Oil is simple - apply first coat thinned 50 percent with mineral spirits (this is key for your base coat for maximum absorption) - let dry for 24 hours.  Lightly steel wool with 0000 - then apply second coat full strength - let it sit for 10 -15 minutes then buff with t shirt - watch for seepage (you shouldn't get much - since you thinned your base coat). Again let dry for 24 hours - steel wool and apply final coat full strength and remove excess after 10 minutes or so.  Let dry 24 hours and you're done - I don't steel wool final coat.
 
Keep in mind this is using pure Tung Oil on a hardwood (in my case Pear) - you should be good to go after letting the final oil coat cure for a few days.  I've never had a problem glueing a part to a surface i have applied this finish to - again you do need to sand or scrape the area you will be glueing the part to - then just reapply some oil after the part has dried - works like a charm.
Chris

Sure Ill add to the discussion - I use pure tung oil as a finish.  In order to glue a part to the finished surface - all you need to do is sand the area with 320 grit or scrape.  Then you glue (PVA or Cryno) - and after dry reapply the oil for a perfect finish. 
Chris

Sure Ill add to the discussion - I use pure tung oil as a finish.  In order to glue a part to the finished surface - all you need to do is sand the area with 320 grit or scrape.  Then you glue (PVA or Cryno) - and after dry reapply the oil for a perfect finish. 
Chris

Hi Tom,
I will be watching your progress as well - wishing you the best.  I also own this Monograph and hope to start her next year - in 1/36th scale.
Chris

Hi Folks,
 
today I started my new Project and my first Scratch Build Log.
 
The "Gros Ventre"  the Kings Gabare according to plans from Gérard Delacroix. 
I want to build the ship with pear wood and I hope i can handle it   
 
Here are my first steps:
 

threaded bars....I hope this is right
 

washers
 

nuts
 
and the Woodparts
 

 

 
Now I´m waiting  for the plans, they are one the way to me. 
 
Stay tuned 

Looks terrific Remco - cant go wrong with Fiebings.  Personally i think treenails standing out against dark/black wales looks odd.  Subtlety is always better.  
Chris

Thanks guys - your compliments are giving me some motivation to get back in the shop this weekend.  Work and the babies are making it really tough right now.  I can see the finish line - if i can just steal an hour here or there it should help me to get some momentum going again.  

I'm still working and not just daydreaming about my next project.  Chesstree installed - bit of glare as the tung oil dries - hoping to tackle the fenders and ladders next

I'm still working and not just daydreaming about my next project.  Chesstree installed - bit of glare as the tung oil dries - hoping to tackle the fenders and ladders next

Rail construction continues… And everything is lining up - unbelievable !!!

Thanks guys - your compliments are giving me some motivation to get back in the shop this weekend.  Work and the babies are making it really tough right now.  I can see the finish line - if i can just steal an hour here or there it should help me to get some momentum going again.