ChrisLBren

After a short break I'm back to making frame's, I haven't  ran into any problems  with the plans,everything seems to line up,and all the frames are symmetrical,if there's a slight mistake it's my fault because I redraw every frame by hand before I transfer to wood,I  don't have access to a copier to duplicate the plans in multiples,other than that the framing seems to be going good she's  starting to look like a ship with very nice line's. 

Hi all, not much news from La Palme, scratch, scratch............ scratch. I'm getting closer to finishing the inside of the hull. I made some sanding blocks at the beginning and worked with them, but in my eyes this is not purposeful. It's best to work with the drawing plates - the result is great and, above all, precise.
 


 

 

Hey Group,
I am currently building a 48 inch long by 16 inch wide build board for LGV.  Both the 3/4 inch birch ply and 3/4 inch MDF are not dead flat.  I am hoping that by screwing either board into 3 inch by 1 inch battens on the underside it will remain flat.  Does one board over the other have an advantage as far as no future warpage ?  Also it is my understanding that sinking screws into MDF may not be the best idea - I could be wrong here.
Thanks

Hi Group,
 
I am considering making an investment here soon.  Currently I use a Proxxon MF70 which is a great little machine - however I am now building in 1/36th plank on frame for the foreseeable future.  I picked up an Emco Unimat 3 a couple years ago from a member of this site which I will set up as my lathe and want a bigger dedicated mill.  
 
 
It seems the models that are most mentioned here are Sherline series or the Proxxon FF230.  I need the ability of a tilting table and or vise for either choice.  Most swear by Sherline - would love thoughts as to model and accessories needed for my specific needs of larger scale/complicated assemblies.  Sorry if my question here is redundant or been addressed.
 
Black Friday is approaching - so I am curious if either would potentially go on sale based on past history.  
 
Thanks

I moved on to the fcastle rail and knightheads. The knight heads are laser cut but the tops needed to be shaped on all four sides. The laser cut rail needed to be sanded smooth and the edges softened. This is where I ran into another oops moment. I hooked the end of the rail snapping off the end two slots. I broke out some sheet stock and remade the first three slots.

Why three you ask? This way the joint would be over the cathead and covered by the cat block. Just in case the seam was visible plus added strength when glued in place. The fun part of the cat block was it needed to be sanded to the curvature of the rail. Not difficult but I needed to go slow to make sure I didn't over sand! 

Once everything was test fitted it was painted and glued in place.
 

 
 

Wow very very nice Tobias !!!!

Wow very very nice Tobias !!!!

Wow very very nice Tobias !!!!

I have seen a few logs that have a tilting mount adapted for the MF70 and its vise.   From my search on the web most tilting vises sold commercially are too high (3 and 1/2 inches is the lowest I have found) to work well with the MF70's range.  So I am assuming most of these mounts are home made.  
 
I would want to purchase one and would be happy to pay for materials and labor for anyone who could build one of these of me.  I am sure this item would be in demand by many other modelers on this site who own the MF70.  
 
Please feel free to PM or post.  I do have a design already drawn up with specs.  
 
Thanks,
Chris

Thanks so much - this is exactly what Ive been looking for. Im going to order it now.  
 

Thanks so much - this is exactly what Ive been looking for. Im going to order it now.  
 

I have seen a few logs that have a tilting mount adapted for the MF70 and its vise.   From my search on the web most tilting vises sold commercially are too high (3 and 1/2 inches is the lowest I have found) to work well with the MF70's range.  So I am assuming most of these mounts are home made.  
 
I would want to purchase one and would be happy to pay for materials and labor for anyone who could build one of these of me.  I am sure this item would be in demand by many other modelers on this site who own the MF70.  
 
Please feel free to PM or post.  I do have a design already drawn up with specs.  
 
Thanks,
Chris

After 2 months of consistent work - 63 frames are cut and assembled and ready for sanding/bevels. One partial stern frame remains to be assembled later.  I need to tweak both the stern keel parts to make sure everything fits snug and re do bow parts part h and i.  Then to cut the rabbet.  Thanks for stopping by. 

Nice work Tobias !!!!

Nice work Tobias !!!!

Nice work Tobias !!!!

Nice work Tobias !!!!

Lots of fun doing the stern timbers.
This is the key shaped opening for the sternpost and rudder head being cut using a mill and finishing of with the rotary tool

The stern timbers temporarily in place
The stern module front and back


sort of in place but not yet fixed. The window frames need work.

Cheerio
Dick

After 2 months of consistent work - 63 frames are cut and assembled and ready for sanding/bevels. One partial stern frame remains to be assembled later.  I need to tweak both the stern keel parts to make sure everything fits snug and re do bow parts part h and i.  Then to cut the rabbet.  Thanks for stopping by. 

Greetings MSW.    I am back after completing Chuck's Confederacy scratch after a 7 year build finished in 2016.  (he did give me some cheats on the figurehead and some sculptures....)  She is an incredibly designed kit - I learned a ton - and ironically it was built in several apartments while single with nothing but a crappy Delta scroll saw and an old Preac table saw, along with Xacto knifes.  Jeff Hayes perfectly milled wood helped a ton !  And then I got married and my twins were born which slowed down everything in 2013. 
 
I have always wanted to build a fully framed French ship and collected a full library of Ancre subjects (the 74 Gun Series, Monographs of the 74 timbers, Commerce de Marseille, and La Renommee).    So  after buying a house in the suburbs - I built out a workshop.  I gathered the necessary tools over the past few years -  Byrnes Table Saw, Thickness Sander, Disc Sander,  Proxxon Mill, Proxxon Planer, Wood River spindle sander and a Dewalt full size table saw to reduce my flitch of pear wood to usable size.  I have also collected Lie Nielsen chisels and its Lee Valley Sharpening system.  
 
So it seems I can't fail right ?  
 
I did...
 
Call it being a Dad of young twins or just sheer intimidation.  I could not complete the stem for La Renommee to my standard so I quit.  I then decided - maybe a simpler subject would work - so I began construction on La Jacinthe in 1/32 scale.  Not only did I have issues with consistency of enlarging the plans (thanks FedEx/UPS store) - I grew bored with its construction - I have already successfully completed several plank on bulkhead models. 
 
So I returned to the enlarged plans that Delacroix sent me for Le Gros Ventre in 1/36 scale - a noble subject - with nice lines, simpler sculptures and yet a serious challenge.  I have heard from several members on this forum that building fully framed in larger scale is easier...
 
So here is the start of my build log - it will be messy showing all of the mistakes in order to build a fully framed model.  Here are my results after 2 months of work - the last photo showing my useable parts.

Greetings Group,
 
I restarted this build in earnest beginning of August and have completed 20 frames (roughly 1/3rd of the total frames).  The frames have not been sanded or bias added, simply assembled (each frame is 12 parts and stacked) with some extra "fat along the bold line of the frame patterns.  
 
I carve out early a couple hours early 430 AM - 630AM before the kids go to school and my day starts - has been working really well so far !

After 2 months of consistent work - 63 frames are cut and assembled and ready for sanding/bevels. One partial stern frame remains to be assembled later.  I need to tweak both the stern keel parts to make sure everything fits snug and re do bow parts part h and i.  Then to cut the rabbet.  Thanks for stopping by. 

Happy Labor Day group.  Quick update - halfway there - 32 frames of 64 completed (each consisting of 12 parts).  I am very happy I bought a flitch of Pear back in 2017 as the price has doubled and framing consumes quite a bit of wood at this scale.  

Thanks for the replies everyone - I believe I can make due with my existing mill to complete the keel parts on my LGV.  I would like to have own one for the more complex assemblies of the bow and stern parts.  A tilting table, vice, DRO and a mill that reaches 10000 rpm is necessary from the posts I have read so far.  Any additional thoughts are appreciated.  
 
No problem about "highjacking" this thread re wood supply.  I bought a flitch of Pear wood a few years back and had a local cabinet shop reduce it to useable boards in 3/8, 1/4 and 3/16.  I then dimension to spec with both the Proxxon planer and Byrnes Thickness Sander.  I have a nice supply, however, I did burn thru a lot of wood for the frames.  I cant imagine how much waste would have resulted using the "Hahn" method.  

Thanks for the replies everyone - I believe I can make due with my existing mill to complete the keel parts on my LGV.  I would like to have own one for the more complex assemblies of the bow and stern parts.  A tilting table, vice, DRO and a mill that reaches 10000 rpm is necessary from the posts I have read so far.  Any additional thoughts are appreciated.  
 
No problem about "highjacking" this thread re wood supply.  I bought a flitch of Pear wood a few years back and had a local cabinet shop reduce it to useable boards in 3/8, 1/4 and 3/16.  I then dimension to spec with both the Proxxon planer and Byrnes Thickness Sander.  I have a nice supply, however, I did burn thru a lot of wood for the frames.  I cant imagine how much waste would have resulted using the "Hahn" method.