usedtosail

Stropping those blocks to the masts was not very difficult, so once they were in place I was able to add the topmast shrouds, the topmast stays and preventer stays, and the backstays. I served these lines like their lower counterparts. On the backstay pairs I seized a short piece of served line in the middle as a cut splice. Working from the mizzen mast to the fore mast, I first seized the deadeyes to the ends of the topmast shrouds and added the lanyards, but did not tighten them up yet. I then added the stay and preventer stay but again did not tighten the tackle lines yet. Finally I added the backstays, tightened them, then the stay and preventer stays, then finally the topmast shrouds. I found this the best way to keep everything taught without pulling the masts out of alignment. I am still working may way up to the bow, with the mizzen topmast just about finished.
 

 

 
I had a bit of a scare when I was adding the fore topmast stay and preventer stay. I started to tighten the tackle lines and the bowsprit decided to come unglued and slid back into the hull. I realized that the only thing holding the bowsprit was the glue in the hole in the bitts which didn't; really make a good gluing surface. Nothing was pulling the bowsprit forward. So I held the bowsprit in the bitts with some clamps and drilled a small hole through the bitt into the bowsprit and put one of the nails that came with the kit into the hole. I cut off the excess nail and put a drop of brown paint on the end to hid it. Now the bowsprit can't move and I could continue rigging the stays.
 

 

 
Next I'll be adding the topmast futtock staves and the ratlines, then rigging the topG shrouds on the fore and main masts.
 
 

Stropping those blocks to the masts was not very difficult, so once they were in place I was able to add the topmast shrouds, the topmast stays and preventer stays, and the backstays. I served these lines like their lower counterparts. On the backstay pairs I seized a short piece of served line in the middle as a cut splice. Working from the mizzen mast to the fore mast, I first seized the deadeyes to the ends of the topmast shrouds and added the lanyards, but did not tighten them up yet. I then added the stay and preventer stay but again did not tighten the tackle lines yet. Finally I added the backstays, tightened them, then the stay and preventer stays, then finally the topmast shrouds. I found this the best way to keep everything taught without pulling the masts out of alignment. I am still working may way up to the bow, with the mizzen topmast just about finished.
 

 

 
I had a bit of a scare when I was adding the fore topmast stay and preventer stay. I started to tighten the tackle lines and the bowsprit decided to come unglued and slid back into the hull. I realized that the only thing holding the bowsprit was the glue in the hole in the bitts which didn't; really make a good gluing surface. Nothing was pulling the bowsprit forward. So I held the bowsprit in the bitts with some clamps and drilled a small hole through the bitt into the bowsprit and put one of the nails that came with the kit into the hole. I cut off the excess nail and put a drop of brown paint on the end to hid it. Now the bowsprit can't move and I could continue rigging the stays.
 

 

 
Next I'll be adding the topmast futtock staves and the ratlines, then rigging the topG shrouds on the fore and main masts.
 
 

Stropping those blocks to the masts was not very difficult, so once they were in place I was able to add the topmast shrouds, the topmast stays and preventer stays, and the backstays. I served these lines like their lower counterparts. On the backstay pairs I seized a short piece of served line in the middle as a cut splice. Working from the mizzen mast to the fore mast, I first seized the deadeyes to the ends of the topmast shrouds and added the lanyards, but did not tighten them up yet. I then added the stay and preventer stay but again did not tighten the tackle lines yet. Finally I added the backstays, tightened them, then the stay and preventer stays, then finally the topmast shrouds. I found this the best way to keep everything taught without pulling the masts out of alignment. I am still working may way up to the bow, with the mizzen topmast just about finished.
 

 

 
I had a bit of a scare when I was adding the fore topmast stay and preventer stay. I started to tighten the tackle lines and the bowsprit decided to come unglued and slid back into the hull. I realized that the only thing holding the bowsprit was the glue in the hole in the bitts which didn't; really make a good gluing surface. Nothing was pulling the bowsprit forward. So I held the bowsprit in the bitts with some clamps and drilled a small hole through the bitt into the bowsprit and put one of the nails that came with the kit into the hole. I cut off the excess nail and put a drop of brown paint on the end to hid it. Now the bowsprit can't move and I could continue rigging the stays.
 

 

 
Next I'll be adding the topmast futtock staves and the ratlines, then rigging the topG shrouds on the fore and main masts.
 
 

Nicely done

Stropping those blocks to the masts was not very difficult, so once they were in place I was able to add the topmast shrouds, the topmast stays and preventer stays, and the backstays. I served these lines like their lower counterparts. On the backstay pairs I seized a short piece of served line in the middle as a cut splice. Working from the mizzen mast to the fore mast, I first seized the deadeyes to the ends of the topmast shrouds and added the lanyards, but did not tighten them up yet. I then added the stay and preventer stay but again did not tighten the tackle lines yet. Finally I added the backstays, tightened them, then the stay and preventer stays, then finally the topmast shrouds. I found this the best way to keep everything taught without pulling the masts out of alignment. I am still working may way up to the bow, with the mizzen topmast just about finished.
 

 

 
I had a bit of a scare when I was adding the fore topmast stay and preventer stay. I started to tighten the tackle lines and the bowsprit decided to come unglued and slid back into the hull. I realized that the only thing holding the bowsprit was the glue in the hole in the bitts which didn't; really make a good gluing surface. Nothing was pulling the bowsprit forward. So I held the bowsprit in the bitts with some clamps and drilled a small hole through the bitt into the bowsprit and put one of the nails that came with the kit into the hole. I cut off the excess nail and put a drop of brown paint on the end to hid it. Now the bowsprit can't move and I could continue rigging the stays.
 

 

 
Next I'll be adding the topmast futtock staves and the ratlines, then rigging the topG shrouds on the fore and main masts.
 
 

I finally finished the yards with all the blocks and foot ropes. I'll leave the parrels until I am ready to add each yard.
 

 
I have started rigging the bow sprit by adding the gammoning. Adding the stays and sprint sail yard will be next.

Thank you Glenn. They took a bit of time but were fun to make and rig.
 
I am working on the rigging of the bowsprit shrouds and stays and the lower mast shrouds. I had to drill out the holes in the stem for the bowsprit stays because of the serving on the lines. I was a bit apprehensive about it but I just drilled half way from both sides and it worked out fine. I also had to drill out two eyebolts so the served line would fit through them for the bowsprit shrouds. I am working on a lot of lines at the same time as it takes time for the lacquer to dry on the fixed seizings.
 

Its been a while since the last update but I have been making some progress with the rigging. I finished rigging the lower shroud deadeyes and the stays. I started to move onto the futtock staves and ratlines by first enlarging the supplied plans that show the ratlines to the same scale as the model, cutting out the shroud sections and gluing them to some manila folder material. I trimmed them to fit behind the shrouds and immediately saw that the mizzen mast was too high! The mizzen mast top was almost as.high as the main top, so I should have noticed it sooner. I made the mast the correct height but it did not fit all the way into the hull when I installed it. So off came the mizzen shrouds and stay and out came the mast. I trimmed the bottom of the mast to fit more into the hull and checked the height, which was now good. I was able to salvage most of the shrouds but I did have to remake one pair and the stay. These are now re-installed and I just need to tighten the shroud lashings and tie them off to the shrouds.
 

 
While I was reworking the mizzen mast I also started adding the futtock staves to the fore and main shrouds.
 

 
I have also started making the futtock shrouds using the supplied PE hooks. I did have to carefully drill out the holes in the hooks to fit the line for the shrouds.

I have finished the standing rigging for the lower masts, including the futtock shrouds and ratlines.
 

 

 
I have added the topmast to the three masts, which I glued in place to make sure they stay straight. I just wish I had remembered to include the few blocks I stropped previous that go between the mast top and the cap on the fore and mizzen masts. I will now have to strop them in place, which shouldn't be too much extra work.
 

 

Stropping those blocks to the masts was not very difficult, so once they were in place I was able to add the topmast shrouds, the topmast stays and preventer stays, and the backstays. I served these lines like their lower counterparts. On the backstay pairs I seized a short piece of served line in the middle as a cut splice. Working from the mizzen mast to the fore mast, I first seized the deadeyes to the ends of the topmast shrouds and added the lanyards, but did not tighten them up yet. I then added the stay and preventer stay but again did not tighten the tackle lines yet. Finally I added the backstays, tightened them, then the stay and preventer stays, then finally the topmast shrouds. I found this the best way to keep everything taught without pulling the masts out of alignment. I am still working may way up to the bow, with the mizzen topmast just about finished.
 

 

 
I had a bit of a scare when I was adding the fore topmast stay and preventer stay. I started to tighten the tackle lines and the bowsprit decided to come unglued and slid back into the hull. I realized that the only thing holding the bowsprit was the glue in the hole in the bitts which didn't; really make a good gluing surface. Nothing was pulling the bowsprit forward. So I held the bowsprit in the bitts with some clamps and drilled a small hole through the bitt into the bowsprit and put one of the nails that came with the kit into the hole. I cut off the excess nail and put a drop of brown paint on the end to hid it. Now the bowsprit can't move and I could continue rigging the stays.
 

 

 
Next I'll be adding the topmast futtock staves and the ratlines, then rigging the topG shrouds on the fore and main masts.
 
 

Next up:  The Gun Carriages.
These took a few weeks prep.  I already had added the 1/16” filler to the carriage sides.  I needed to make the parts – front axle, rear axle, etc.  You can see all of the parts on my Jan 29th post.  I made 35 of each, just to make sure of 30 good ones.  Once all of the parts were made, I assembled the carriages.  Now all I need is to find the right paint color.  What colors have you all used for this, or was it a custom mixture?
 



 
For the gun tackles, I purchased blocks from Chuck P’s Syren Ship Model Company.  I just wanted to mention this, because the blocks are spectacular!  Makes me want to replace all of the kit’s blocks with Chuck’s, but it’ll cost a lot to do this – they are reasonably priced, but there are so many of them on Constitution. And no, Chuck is NOT paying me for this advertisement!  I’m a long way from rigging, so I might start replacing them a little at a time.  In the meantime, I’ll be making the gun tackles when I’m closer to installing the guns, probably AFTER the hull is completely planked.
 
I wish you all a wonderful Thanksgiving Holiday.  I have many things to be thankful for and will be counting my blessings on Thursday along with many of you. 
 
Fair winds,
Bob

Hi all, thanks for the likes!  I really appreciate it, and it encourages me to keep going.
 
With Thanksgiving approaching and family coming over, the Admiral said it was time to shut down the shipyard and make it ship-shape for our guests and safe for the grandkids.  Now that I’ve done that, it’s a good time to update the build log.
In my last entry, I was going to clean things up on the outer planking and then begin the wales.  I DID begin cleaning up the planking, and filling where necessary, but every time I filled and sanded, there were more places I needed to fill and sand.  I got frustrated and decided to move to something different for a while.
 
So, on to the bulwarks!
 
I decided to go with the “glue-drop method” of adding the rivets/bolts.  I admire the workmanship, and the patience that some of you have gone to in order to make these look more realistic. However, I couldn’t envision spending the next 10 years punching out tiny brass rivet heads (and losing them).  Likewise, the thought of drilling tiny holes and going crazy trying to insert tiny plastic rivets was not my cup of tea!  So, glue dots it was.
 
First, I made the bulwarks by edge-gluing the planks.  For the curved bow section, I soaked the planks, and clamped to the frames to set the curve.  I edge glued these as well once they were dry.  This didn’t work out as well as I had hoped, because I glued these “on-edge” vs stair-stepped as they probably were when they were wet on the frames.  So, I repeated the process, but once dry, I glued the planks to the frames with the intention of adding glue dots to these curved sections on the hull.
 
I did a test application on a mock-up panel.  The rivets were difficult to see once dry, but under magnification I noticed that the glue had flattened out too much.  Then I did another mock-up panel and applied 3 coats of varnish prior to applying the glue dots.  The rivets were much better defined this way.
 
I sanded / varnished all of the panels in a likewise manner.  I then sharpened a bunch of toothpicks to apply the glue dots.  I applied to one panel and let it dry.  I was happy with the results – but then realized that this panel, as well as most of the other panels would have pin rails attached later, and the “rivets” would get in the way. 
 
I tried to remove the rivets in the pin rail area and found that they were quite easy – almost too easy – to remove with a simple knife tip scrape.  That worried me, that I would knock them off in handling.  So as soon as possible, I decided I would paint them.
 
I identified which panels would have pin rails and avoided this area while applying glue dots to all of the remaining panels.  I had to keep switching toothpicks as the glue quickly built up on them and had to keep refreshing the glue puddle I was dipping into as it dried/thickened fairly quickly.  Under magnification there were some dots that were a bit flat and needed to have extra glue added to define the dots.  There were others that needed to be scraped away and redone completely.  Once done, I attached the panels to the ship’s frames and added glue dots to the inner planksheer.  Then I painted them all.  The bulwarks are not as shiny as they look in the photos under bright light.  Overall, I am happy with the results.  Much better than nothing – it would have looked wrong – and much easier/faster than other techniques.


 

 

Topmast stays
 
Thanks as always for the likes and kind comments.
 
I rigged the stays from aft to fore, starting with 0.40mm line for the mizzen (3 X Mara100) . One end of the stay is seized round the head of the mizzen topmast, this end being served for about six (scale) feet beyond the eye. The other end was reeved through a block seized round the main mast, just below the hounds. This end has a thimble seized into it, which in turn is lashed to another thimble hooked to an eyebolt just abaft the main bitts. I used Mara150 for the lashing (about 0.20mm):
 

(Just notice some ratline knots I'll need to fix!)
 
I've previously always made my own thimbles from copper tubing (eg Speedy log here). However I was impressed by the quality of the wooden thimbles in this kit and so was happy to use them.
 
The main topmast has both a stay and a preventer stay, each fitted with a mouse in imitation of their big brothers at the main top. I used 0.65mm and 0.50mm line for these two stays (9 X Mara150 and 3 X Mara70 respectively), serving each to about six scale feet below the mouse. I made the eye in the end of each stay and the mouse in the same way as I described for the main stay (here), with one minor variation. Previously when making a mouse I'd used my metal working lathe with a drill bit in the tailstock to make the hole through wooden dowel prior to shaping it. This time I decided that it would be easier, given the small workpiece and low powered machine involved, to perform this operation on the Proxxon lathe, simply by holding a drill bit by hand and pushing it against the dowel. I'd marked the centre of the dowel with a pointy tool and this was sufficient to keep the drill in place as it made the initial cut:
   
I used a 0.90mm bit to give clearance for the served line. Then it was on with the turning tools to create the shape and size (aiming for the mouse to be about 3X the diameter of the stay):

Here's the stained result - I will darken these further to match the stays:

 
The stays then rove through blocks seized to the fore mast before having 4mm double blocks seized into their ends. With eyes and mice on the other ends, it is not possible to do this operation off the model. As usual, Quadhands proves invaluable (this is the fore topmast stay, but the idea is the same):
 
As usual, I used 18/0 fly tying line for the seizings (or more accurately, to fake the look of a splice).
 
The tackle for the main  topmast stays consists of the double block and a single 3mm block seized to a hook. Opposite the hook I created a loop (becket?) in the strop using a 0.90mm drill bit and CA, as previously described. For the tackle line I used 0.25mm Mara100 seized to the becket:
 

The tackle is then hooked to eyebolts, one either side and just abaft of the foremast:

Here, I've temporarily jammed the spare line into the pinrack.
 
The fore topmast stay and preventer stay are made of the same size line and are also seized and fitted with eyes and mice. They rove through the bees then end in similar tackles to the main topmast stays, hooked to eyebolts either side of the bowsprit. This time the spare line is temporarily hitched around a timberhead:
 
Here's the current state of play:

Photography inside the dust cabinet isn't great, but at least the rigging is starting to take shape.
 
On to the topgallants next.
 
Derek
 
 

Let me dive right in...
 
Dont forget that if you eventually build this kit,  the two volume set from Seawatch will be a must have.   Yes you will spot the differences easy enough,  but the books along with my instructions absolutely compliment each other and you will want to have them at your side.
 
I always like to begin by building the stem assembly.   As was true with Cheerful and the Winnie,  All of the parts are laser cut.  In this case yellow cedar was used.  But there is one major difference.  On the Winnie, you could just punch out the pieces and glue them together with little or no tweaking.  But this model is being built at 3/8" scale.  That means the parts are much thicker than with Winnie.

 
The laser cutter as you know will not cut with the edges at a perfect right angle.  Normally I would just flip some parts and that would do the trick so everyone would get a perfect fit with the edges fitting nice and tight.  These parts however are so thick that even with the best of laser cutter settings, more than just an exaggerated bevel is produced.   When the wood starts to reach 5/16" or 3/8" thick, the laser starts to introduce a slight curve as well.   Most of this can be compensated for by doing my usual flipping of parts.
 
But where the edge is narrower, lets say at the end of scarph joint....the flipping isnt enough.  So each part has been strategically made a fraction longer on one end only so you can make adjustments for the tightest fit possible.
 
In fact...most edges still dont need to be touched and I recommend that you dont touch almost all of them.  I have taken the liberty of circling every edge in the stem knee assembly that should be tweaked.   I am talking about knocking off the char and sanding the edge very slightly to get a really nice fit.  Just a few swipes with a sanding stick along these narrower edges and you will have a perfect fit.  Not too much though.  Test the it regularly and flip it over to look at the joint on both sides.   
 
Just a quick hitting with the sanding sticks on the edges marked with red circles will make these parts fit nice and tight.
 

Also Note 
 
The lower end of the stem will form an actual and true boxing joint.   But to simplify the building process this segment of the stem needs to be built in two layers.  I will do this a lot on this project which you will soon see.  Make sure you assemble the two layers carefully and have the longer piece on the correct side.   The two halves were glued together first and then that segment was glued onto the completed head/stem assembly after tweaking the scarph joint for a tight fit.  Hope that makes sense.
 

Also note above the dashed red line where the boxing joint will be.  The top layer of the stem was left a bit longer than needed to assure it could be trimmed back flush with the end of the gripe.  I used a sharp #11 blade to slice it back so it was flush and neat.  You can see this was done on my assembly already but once you glue that segment of the stem on your assembly you will see its just a hair too long....that was done intentionally so you could get a great fit on your model and the boxing joint will have nice tight seams.
 
Once completed the thinner knee of the head was also sanded and installed...note how that is pre notched to receive head timbers much later in the project.  Just center it port to starboard.   Dont sand any laser char off at all until you test it on your assembly.   It will fit almost perfect from the get go so only the edges that are visible after gluing it in position should be sanded free of char.  This piece can be delicate so more than one laser cut piece is provided just in case.
 
Now it was time to thin down and taper the entire head assembly to receive the figurehead.  The fore edge of the stem was sanded so a graceful bevel was introduced.  Just like on the Winnie.   The forward edge was reduced to 4mm so the space between the legs of the figure will actually fit.  Otherwise the figurehead will not fit...I wont go nutty with the instructions here because so much of this is repeated from the Winnie and other projects.   But this completes the first part of of the project which means its truly official now.
 

The start of my build log...always a very exciting moment for a model builder!!
 
I am assuming most of you are somewhat familiar with the Ketch Rigged English Sloop Speedwell - 1752.   David Antscherl and Greg Herbert have produced a wonderful series of books for model builders on how to build a great model of her.   Not only can you build one as a POF model,  but as a POB and lift model as well.
 
Why would I choose this as my subject.  Those of you that know me,  I have always selected a subject that was unique at the time.  Never been done!!!  The Syren, The Winnie, The Cheerful etc.  I chose this subject for several reasons actually, knowing full well that this would become a commercial laser cut kit like my other Syren projects.
 
First- I never really wanted to build a POF model.  I prefer the look of a fully planked hull myself.  But the craftsman side of me won out as I was looking for a challenge beyond just another POB project.  I can build those and sometimes it feels like I am just going through the formulaic motions with each of them.   This would certainly be a design and engineering challenge as much as a builder challenge.
 


Second-  I am always increasingly frustrated and disappointed to regularly see pirated kits come out almost monthly as of late.  Mostly all the rage are those POF kits from China. 
 
A coincidence??  That almost all of them released are also subjects of Ancre, Seawatch, or Anatomy of the Ship Books.  I think not.
 
You may have noticed the latest pirated kit produced from one of David Antscherl's designs, the Hayling Hoy is now making its rounds.  None of the parts fit as is typical and the instructions render this kit almost unbuildable....again very typical.  Just check out the build logs of pirated Hayling kit from China on other forums.  Its a complete disaster and a waste of money.  Literally unbuildable but they are still selling them to unsuspecting builders.
 
So I reached out to David and Greg and asked them if I could develop the Speedwell before a really bad pirated version is released (and one is actually on the way-surprised?)  They agreed and are as excited as I am about it.  I just dont want to see a crappy unbuildable version of Speedwell being sold to builders.   Hopefully they will wait until this one is released.  Maybe I should do one of Hayling as well. LOL.
 
My goal...to design a kit based on the books where the parts actually do fit.   One that would encourage POF building for folks who want to give it a try.   To also write a set of English instructions that are in depth and easy to understand.  In short, to make a legitimate kit of from a Seawatch book under license and permission from the author with the authors help and guidance.  Will this stop folks from building the knock-off version when it comes out.....probably not.  But at least you will now have a choice.  The pirated version of Speedwell is currently almost ready and being done by the same company who pirated Hayling.   Coincidence again??  I think not.
 
Also and I dont mean to digress....but a pirated version of yet another Seawatch book....Ed Tosti's Naiad Frigate is also set for release very soon as well.   Again a coincidence...I think Not.    Why dont you ever see a subject from these guys that wasnt first a Seawatch Book or Ancre book?   Honest inquiring minds want to know.
 
Anyway
 
There will be differences between my Speedwell of course.  I will be modifying it for simplicity so  you dont have to be a master builder with every expensive tool in shop.   The design concept for this POF model will be unique and allow a novice and intermediate builder to tackle it.   It will also be at 3/8" scale which should also make it much easier to build.  
 
Here is the preliminary framing plan which will show just how different it will be.
 

It will be planked from the wales upward so there is no reason to over complicate the project with bent frames....If you compared this to David's plan it is completely different.  BUT make no mistake.   Yes the folks who pirate these POF projects will claim its different and therefore original. 
 
BUT make no mistake.  This is a 100% copy of Davids work.   All of this is directly lifted from his plans and only modified to make production and building a bit easier.   But it is a copy...literally traced.  But the difference here is I give full credit to David and will be paying for the privilege to use his knowledge and expertise and hard work and years of research on this subject.  
 
I do hope you will swing over a chair and watch this new Speedwell project come to life.  A huge thank you to David and to Greg who will no doubt think I am pain in biscuit by the time this is completed.
 
speedwellsheetone.pdf
 
speedwellsheettwo.pdf
 
speedwellsheetthree.pdf
 
SpeedChapOneMono.pdf

SpeedChapTwoMono.pdf
 
 
 

I have finished the standing rigging for the lower masts, including the futtock shrouds and ratlines.
 

 

 
I have added the topmast to the three masts, which I glued in place to make sure they stay straight. I just wish I had remembered to include the few blocks I stropped previous that go between the mast top and the cap on the fore and mizzen masts. I will now have to strop them in place, which shouldn't be too much extra work.
 

 

I have finished the standing rigging for the lower masts, including the futtock shrouds and ratlines.
 

 

 
I have added the topmast to the three masts, which I glued in place to make sure they stay straight. I just wish I had remembered to include the few blocks I stropped previous that go between the mast top and the cap on the fore and mizzen masts. I will now have to strop them in place, which shouldn't be too much extra work.
 

 

I have finished the standing rigging for the lower masts, including the futtock shrouds and ratlines.
 

 

 
I have added the topmast to the three masts, which I glued in place to make sure they stay straight. I just wish I had remembered to include the few blocks I stropped previous that go between the mast top and the cap on the fore and mizzen masts. I will now have to strop them in place, which shouldn't be too much extra work.
 

 

I have finished the standing rigging for the lower masts, including the futtock shrouds and ratlines.
 

 

 
I have added the topmast to the three masts, which I glued in place to make sure they stay straight. I just wish I had remembered to include the few blocks I stropped previous that go between the mast top and the cap on the fore and mizzen masts. I will now have to strop them in place, which shouldn't be too much extra work.
 

 

I have finished the standing rigging for the lower masts, including the futtock shrouds and ratlines.
 

 

 
I have added the topmast to the three masts, which I glued in place to make sure they stay straight. I just wish I had remembered to include the few blocks I stropped previous that go between the mast top and the cap on the fore and mizzen masts. I will now have to strop them in place, which shouldn't be too much extra work.
 

 

I have finished the standing rigging for the lower masts, including the futtock shrouds and ratlines.
 

 

 
I have added the topmast to the three masts, which I glued in place to make sure they stay straight. I just wish I had remembered to include the few blocks I stropped previous that go between the mast top and the cap on the fore and mizzen masts. I will now have to strop them in place, which shouldn't be too much extra work.
 

 

I have finished the standing rigging for the lower masts, including the futtock shrouds and ratlines.
 

 

 
I have added the topmast to the three masts, which I glued in place to make sure they stay straight. I just wish I had remembered to include the few blocks I stropped previous that go between the mast top and the cap on the fore and mizzen masts. I will now have to strop them in place, which shouldn't be too much extra work.
 

 

Thanks Glenn and for the likes.
 
After a nice week's vacation in Canada I am back in the shop. I have finished installing the futtock staves and have started adding the catharpins and futtock shrouds. I apologize for the crappy photos but I find taking pictures of rigging not easy.
 

 

 

Crowsfeet & Topmast Backstays
 
Thanks guys. I decided to stick with the 6/0 fly tying line for the crowsfeet. Here's the current state of play, with the crowsfeet on all three masts (now that I've started the rigging in earnest I've put the model in my dust cabinet, which makes photography a bit trickier):

I've also rigged the topmast backstays, seen above with the small clips holding the laniards in place prior to final adjustment. Each backstay is made from a single line (I used 0.50mm for the mizzen and 0.65mm for the main and fore masts) fitted with a horseshoe splice in the middle to fit over the masthead:

I served the central 40mm of each line, and created the horseshoe by splicing in a short 6mm length of line to form the straight piece. 
 
Here's a description of the method I used.
 
I seized a 3mm deadeye into the end of each backstay and used 0.30mm for the laniards connecting them to the deadeyes already fitted to the channels:
 
Topmast stays next.
 
Derek
 

Here's a small update...very small!
 
This is Indy's figurehead, albeit still needs some touching up. Again, this was done by my friend, Mark. He's far more patience (and ability!) than I have.