fnkershner

Thanks for the answers. I spent most of the weekend planking and I decided the same thing. Flush with the false deck. And I didn't bevel. I only plan on 1 layer of planking. And I didn't install the drop keel. I am going to install about 10 planks of "B" on both sides. And yes I am looking forward to all that sanding.

Continuing with the Foremast Yard Braces.
The Fore topgallant yard brace originates at the main topmast stay collar, runs through the block on a pendant from the yard, returns to the block on the topmast stay collar, then through  a block at the aft of the foretop and belays to a cleat at the belfry.
 

 
The brace runs from the block on the collar to a block on the aft of the foretop and then to the belfry.
 

 
Next on to the mainmast yard braces, with great care to avoid dismasting the ship.
Cheers, Gil

FOREMAST YARD BRACES; in separate posts.
 

 
Fore coarse yard brace. Begins from the main stay collar, to the yard pulley, returns to a block on the main stay collar and then down to the fore brace bitts.
 

 
Fore coarse yard brace block
 

 
Fore topsail yard brace, runs from the main stay collar, through a block from a pendant off the yard, returns to the block on the mainstay collar, then down the main stay and through a block to a block on the first skid beam, belaying to pins on the second skid beam.  (As mentioned earlier, different sources show the presence or absence of pendants for the brace blocks).
 

 
 
 
 
 
 

Finished and placed on the ship....






 
Kind regards
Doris

How I made the swivel guns....

I also decided to change wooden colour on the front staircases and painted them into red/vermillion to achieve better and probably more realistic result. Red colour  - vermillion was probably used on fitting on the real ship.
 





 
 

Hello dear friends,
Thank you for your kind words and support, that means a lot for me.

Mirabell61: I suppose that royal family could take their pets also on board. I like making sculptures, sometimes it is a fun....
 
 Oh yes, I have to keep an eye on them.
 
During previous days I have finished other staircases and also 8 pieces of small half-pounder swivel guns made of card.
Here are some pics, so you can enjoy them.

Thanks Augie, Ben and Paddy.
 
Well I'm barreling down the home stretch and speaking of barreling I have mounted the barrels
to their carriages and will be putting them in place once I'm back in town.
 

 

 
Thanks for stopping by.

Rusty - I think this particular build will be the closest I ever get to scratch building. I will watch your work with great interest.

I have the distinct honor of being able to work with Chuck again on my  next project,
the HMS Winchelsea.  This is the same ship that Chuck is designing and currently
building. I cannot put into words my gratitude to Chuck for allowing me to participate
in his project. I will make every effort to build her as described in the plans and
practicum although I will never be able to reach the outstanding level of craftsmanship
Chuck has set.
 
 The HMS Winchelsea was launched in 1764 and is a Niger class 32 gun frigate. This
build will show how she appeared during the American Revolution. The model will be
fully rigged at 3/16" scale. I will be using various woods throughout the build but the
primary wood used will be Boxwood, Holly and Swiss Pear. All of these woods are
from Jeff at Hobby Mill.
 
As Chuck has very eloquently detailed his log and I could never reproduce that either.
I will just show how I worked my way through the build.
 
Here is a sample of some the plans that I will be using to build the Winchelsea.
 

 
The first step in the build will be to cut out and assemble the knee of the head. There are
eleven parts to the head knee assembly and they will all be cut from 3/16" Boxwood. The
pieces were rough cut with the scroll saw and finished with files, sandpaper and chisels.
To simulate the caulked joints.
 
Once assembled Chuck states " The entire assembly must be tapered. This taper extends
from the upper stem piece towards the bobstay piece.  The aft edge of the upper stem
should remain 3/16” thick.  It should gradually be reduced to 3/32” thick along the
forward edge of the bobstay piece. The taper is 3/32” at the top of the bobstay piece
but it also gradually widens back to 3/16” as it works its way down towards the cutwater. "
 
Hopefully you can see this taper in the photograph.
 

 
Next it will be time to cut out the bulkheads and the bulkhead former. These will all cut
from Birch 3/16" aircraft 4 ply plywood. As there are so many bulkheads, a total of 27,
I anticipate it taking a least a week to cut them out and fit them prior to gluing.
 
That is if my mind doesn't wander!  

More progress pictures

Well lets see?..... Single digit temperatures, 10 inches of snow and sleet - good weekend for doing some modeling!
 
Scott and Ronald thank you for the comments! Ronald, The jig I have is the model shipways fair a frame. I bought it cheap on ebay and it does a good job of holding the ship in place.
 
Richard, I'm honored to hear you have a picture of my ship on your workbench! Thank you! I hope you get your deck to work to your expectations.. 
 
I've made some progress this week. The quarter galleries are coming along slowly but surely. And I completed the tiller and the binnacle as well as getting a good start on my 12 pounders. Does anyone know where I can get a smaller ships bell, the one included in the kit looks way too big when set on top of the binnacle.
 
Richard 

Well, I nearly finished the main mast.   The plans indicate the hardware was either painted white or galvanized.  I opted for galvanized on the masts various other topside items.  I'm following a theory here that on the ships I have seen the hardware was not specially painted to show.  Rather, if painted it was painted the same color (and probably same paint) as surrounding areas.
 
For the top of the main top mast, I decided against trying to make a brass strip look right, so I just twisted some wire and soldered it up. 
 
For the area of abrasion around the boom rest I used the dull side of aluminum foil.
 
The last thing to do is the spring wire loop and the small ring.  Then on to the foremast where I suppose most things will be done the same.
 

Thank you E&T.
 
Ok Ben.... you should have excused yourself.  You had insider information!
 
Yes Chuck has graciously allowed me access to the Winnie and I will be starting her shortly.
As this will be a long slow build while he continues to design her I will try to complete the Fly
at the same time. Gotta keep the Grand kids happy you know!  
 
I have completed the stand. I made it out of some Maple I had available.
 
 

 

 

 
I kept the dowels low on the stand so they wouldn't cover the frame work. Now I just have to put
on a couple of coats of sealer and I can set the cross section in it.

So let me share some of my first impressions of this kit. First off have I said this boat is a monster? She is very big! I am looking forward to a lot of nice detail.
 
The pictures below are the result of about 90 min of tinkering. All of the parts fit together vary nicely with almost no sanding. You will note that the laser burn marks are still evident. What you see in these pictures is also almost completely without glue. Everything is snug and tight. It to some force to get it together, but I am ready for sanding and fairing.
 
The plans are excellent. The instruction are good. They could be a bit more detailed, but they come in several pamphlets. One for each language. I forgot to mention that each bundle of planking is labeled! With dimensions and what it is to be used for. I have not seen this on any other model. The labels are in 4 languages.
 
PS you will note the mat it is laying on is 33 inches wide! This is a whale of a model. Not sure what the admiral will say when I try to display it in the living room.

Working on locating and cutting out the gunports for the lower gun deck.
 
First I marked the center of each port on the hull using plan sheet #8 measurements. Then I placed a small nail at each center so I could look down the side of the hull to see if they all were in algnment. A couple had to be adjusted slightly.
 
Second I created a small jig that measures 14mm square, which is the gunport dimensions, with a belaying pin for a handle and a 2mm wood dowel for a pilot. I drilled a 2mm hole in the center of each port location.
 
Third I placed the jig in each center hole and traced the sides on the hull to mark the square cutout.
 
Fourth I drilled more holes in the marked squares to aid in making the cutouts.
 
Lastly as each cutout was cut and squared off, I placed the jig into the hole until it fit snuggly. The result is a nice square hole of the correct dimension.
 
Vince P.

Thanks CaptainSteve. I blame the photographer (Mike Graff is an excellent photographer)
 
Sometimes, the stars just line up right and I can get a little work done. My wife went to bed early tonight, and the cats didn't come down to help, so I was able to start putting the mainmast shrouds on:
 

 

 
And I realized that when I posted the photos from the other day, I didn't include an overall view of the foremast shrouds:
 

 
With a little luck (and a quiet house) I should be able to start trimming the mainmast shrouds.
 
Thanks,
 
Harvey

Bill - Unfortunately we sold the house so I don't have my personal piece of heaven in the forest. But in the new place. The Admiral was kind enough to allow me to set up a work table in the Office/Bedroom. As log as I promised there would be no sawdust. All sanding and power tools are in the Garage.

So let me share some of my first impressions of this kit. First off have I said this boat is a monster? She is very big! I am looking forward to a lot of nice detail.
 
The pictures below are the result of about 90 min of tinkering. All of the parts fit together vary nicely with almost no sanding. You will note that the laser burn marks are still evident. What you see in these pictures is also almost completely without glue. Everything is snug and tight. It to some force to get it together, but I am ready for sanding and fairing.
 
The plans are excellent. The instruction are good. They could be a bit more detailed, but they come in several pamphlets. One for each language. I forgot to mention that each bundle of planking is labeled! With dimensions and what it is to be used for. I have not seen this on any other model. The labels are in 4 languages.
 
PS you will note the mat it is laying on is 33 inches wide! This is a whale of a model. Not sure what the admiral will say when I try to display it in the living room.

Well when you are getting frustrated with your current project there are only a few choices on what to do:
 
1. You could continue on. From My experience bad things happen in this situation
2. You could burn the model and give up
3. Or you could just put it away for a bit and turn to another project.  The only downside of this is the evil stares from the admiral. and she says "Another project?!!"
 
Elsewhere on this site there is another log of this wonderful kit. Seeing that build reminded me what was on my shelf. One thing led to another and now you will see the results.
 
Being a huge fan of America's Cup I just had to have a nice kit of a famous boat from that series. I think this is one of the most beautiful boats there is.
 
So without Further ado I give you the Endeavour!

Ok All as requested my build log is started. I will not continue to clog up Richard's build log.
 
But Richard I do have a couple questions if you could help me. I am planning on starting my planking this weekend.
 
Questions:
 
1. On your first strake of planks at the deck. Did you build it to be exactly flush with the false deck? I have looked at the plans etc. and it is not quite clear on this subject. My thinking it that I may need to adjust a bit to take into account the thickness of the deck planking.
 
2. On planking the bulb. How did you know when to switch from the "B" planks to the "A" planks. did you just use B until you ran out? Also did you taper the edges of the B planking. The area around the bulb is pretty rounded. So I can see the need for the narrower planking. Now I am wondering if you need to bevel these planks lengthwise.
 
3. Did you use proportional dividers or Tick strips to measure the tapering? How many planks did you find you had to taper? Did you have any drop planks or stealers?

Copper, Finished at Last!
 
This had to be the most tedious part of this build up to this point.  However, the result is really satisfying.  I am not sure I will ever copper the bottom of a model again, but I am glad that I finished this one.  I have to say, that the day that I bought this kit, I opened the box to examine the contents.  At that time, I was not sure I could ever get to this point in the build.
 
As you can see from the last photo, I have started to prepare the ship to receive the rudder.  This was a very nerve wracking step, as I did not want to wreck the counter.  
 

 

 

 

 

 

Bob - I have spent about 2 years doing the 4th option. So now I want to have fun with a relatively easy model.
 
And yes I plan on painting her. No unpainted or uncoppered hulls for this guy! You might see my planking!!

Bob - I have spent about 2 years doing the 4th option. So now I want to have fun with a relatively easy model.
 
And yes I plan on painting her. No unpainted or uncoppered hulls for this guy! You might see my planking!!

Here we go again with another infrequent and random update . . .
 
The shrouds on the lower foremast are on, but not tightened. I want to wait at least until I get some of the stays on before I fix them for good:
 
 

 

 

 
Photos courtesy of Mike Graff.
 
Tonight I made up the mainmast lower shrouds. I like the way they lay at the masthead-enough that I'm considering re-doing the foremast.
 
I decided to leave the boarding pikes off the masts, at least for now. I feel that they will be another thing for lines to snag on when rigging at the base of the mast. I may add them later-we'll see.
 
Contrary to popular belief, I'm enjoying working on the standing rigging. It hasn't been too hard yet, and I'm trying to think things thru before I do something stupid.
 
Thanks for looking in.
 
Harvey