Blue Ensign

CAPSTANS Pegasus has two capstans, an Upper deck Lower capstan which should be connected to the second Capstan on the Quarterdeck. The kit has not been designed for this arrangement, each capstan being a separate fitting, each with its own drumhead. With a two tier arrangement the lower capstan has a Trundlehead thro’ which the barrel extends to the Upper capstan. This is more than enough reason for me to want to connect them, so a slight diversion from the kit instructions is necessary. Firstly a capstan step has to be fitted over the deck, capstans didn’t sit directly on the deck. Secondly the Quarterdeck support beam needs to be recessed on the inner face to allow passage of the connecting barrel; I also reduced the depth of the beam to more scale size which also allowed more space for the lower capstan. The style of the kit capstans although reasonable have two extra whelps and bar sockets than that suggested in the Swan books, which indicate five whelps on the lower capstan, and six on the Upper. There are seven whelps on each of the kit provided capstans. The whelps also appear to be a little thin compared to the swan book dimensions. I decided not to mess with the number of whelps but joined two together to increase the thickness. I also inserted upper and lower chocks, made up from the walnut disc which is indicated to be glued to the base of the capstan. At this point only the lower capstan will be fitted and very little of it will be seen once the deck is in place. Finally pawls were added to the Capstan step to complete the arrangement. Pump covers The pump cisterns and heads are quite plain affairs as provided with the kit, consisting of a rectangular walnut block for the cistern and a domed piece to represent the covers. I felt that the provided parts were a tad under-scale compared to the references in the Swan books, but they can be quite easily beefed up by overlaying with boarding, and by the detail fitting of the pump dales and drain plugs. The bearing or rhoding thro’ which the axletree passes and which sit atop the cistern was made from my old standby the brass strip from the Jotika eyelets. The pump dales are represented by some boxwood square stuff, an interesting addition which helps show how the pumps operated. Bitts and pieces Of these the Gallows are probably the most distinctive. An early dry fit is required to check the relationship of the axletrees/winches to the pumps and gallows rhodings. The kit provided cross piece looked a little large to my eye and I’m not too sure about the shape. The proportions looked too long, too wide, too shallow, and the gallows a tad too tall; apart from that they are just fine. The scale cross piece measures out to 13.8’in length, 12.7” wide, and 6.1” deep. By comparison the Swan books give dimensions as 9’ long, 7” wide, and 11” deep, and a shape I’m more familiar with. A little later in the build I may have to make a replacement cross piece that sits easier with my eye. The time has now come to fit the Gunport patterns; this is a critical part of the build ensuring that the gunports sit an equal distance from the deck along each side and are level in respect of the opposite side. Not quite worked out a strategy of how to achieve this yet B.E.

Coamings and Gratings The kit blurb suggests using 3x2mm walnut strip to make the coamings, but this does not allow for the curve in the head ledges which should be similar to the deck camber. I therefore used 5x2mm stuff to make the head ledges to allow for the round up. To begin, a template of the hatch sizes was made around which the coamings will be constructed. I used the ply cut outs from the deck for this purpose. For those who may not have considered it, there is an orientation in respect of gratings. The athwartships timbers are deeper than the longitudinal timbers which run in notches cut into the former. When viewed along the deck of the ship the longitudinal timbers should appear unbroken. A small point and one that will be noticed by very few, well perhaps only me, but if gratings are being made up from strip, they may as well be fitted to reflect the correct method. It is suggested that the coamings are mitred at the corners in the same manner as a picture frame; this makes for a neat arrangement but was not the case in reality, the head ledges were half tenoned into the coamings the end of which are apparent from the fore aft view. The corners of the coamings were rounded above deck, an early nod to Health and Safety perhaps. Once the gratings are made up they can be fitted into the frame and sanded to the rounded profile. Fore Hatch /ladderway, this will most likely be left open. Here the Capstan step has also been fitted (not part of the kit) with the pawls set in place. The run of hatches along the deck, yet to be fixed after a little more fettlin'; I haven’t quite decided at this stage how to finish the coamings, varnished or painted red ochre or black, but there’s time to decide yet... I have also been working on the Capstans and pumps which will be the subject of the next update. B.E.

What’s Cookin’ I always intended adding the Galley stove to my Pegasus build, but being a lazy modeller I had in the back of my mind the 1:64 scale white metal stove supplied by Jotika. None of that scratching business for me thinks I. Sadly I find that the Jotika version is too large to fit in the galley space on Pegasus where the stove has to be shoe horned between the Riding Bitt standards, and the Foremast Bitt extensions. Stoves were standardised in size for each class of ship, so even at the same scale sizes differed. So a disappointed man, I have to consider scratching one. Fortunately there are clear drawings of the Pegasus stove in the Swan book series. The basic carcass of the stove was carved from balsa and then covered with styrene sheet and strip to form the detail. Here the basic build is completed ready for priming. Once primed it starts to look more like a miniature stove. Before the final top coat is applied the grating bars and hinged pot arms have to be fitted. This is the most fiddly aspect of the build, because even at 1:64 scale which seems quite large, the items are quite small. Getting there, the grating bars and pot arms fitted and weathered, the lifting rings also added at this point. So Pegasus now has a stove completed with the brass rail around the oven sides, and the drain cocks for the two boilers. Still, rather pleased now that the Jotika white metal version didn’t fit, although I think it could be improved with a few scratch enhancements. A word of advice for those contemplating adding a stove to Pegasus, temporarily fit the riding bitts and standards to doubly make sure your little gem fits. The cowl of the galley flue will fit over the protruding pipe when I get around to making it. A final shot giving the relative size ‘on board’ Now what else can I do to avoid getting down to those Gun port templates, well there are the gratings to make, and the Upper deck Lower Capstan.... B.E.

Partition panelling A small update but one that has taken several days to achieve. I like to fit the internal panelling even tho’ it won’t be apparent once the Quarterdeck is in place, except perhaps thro’ the skylight. Two athwartships bulkheads separate the Great Cabin and the Coach/state room/dining room whatever you wish to call it, from the rest of the ship. An additional longitudinal bulkhead separates the Captains Bed Place from the State room. The foremost bulkhead gives entrance to the State room on the Port side and the Bed Place on the Starboard. The aft bulkhead gives access to the Great Cabin on the port side. The Starboard side view of the Great cabin and Bed Place. All the doors open aft, and as with the bulkheads can be quickly dismantled for stowage below. These were only temporary fitments on the real ship. It was necessary to get the fit of these items at this stage - easier before the gunport strips go in, but they will now be removed for final finishing and fitment at a later date. The next job up should be fitting the gunport strip patterns, perhaps the first testing item of the build, but I need to be in the mood for it, and I may bottle it for a while in favour of building the Ships stove. B.E.

Fitting out the Great Cabin- or how to assemble an Ikea flat pack at 1:64 scale Before I go much further with the build I need to sort out how the internal fittings run up to meet the stern windows. All this work is of course totally pointless as once enclosed none of it will be seen again - but I know it’s there, and now so do you. Running across the deck at the stern are seats which double as lockers, and above them a further row of lockers that run up to meet the gallery windows. The arrangement is split in the centre by the stern post which runs up to attach to a deck beam. Behind this the rudder head proceeds to the Quarterdeck. Around both stern post and rudder head is fitted the rudder head trunk. The seat fronts are made from boxwood panelling, and the seats from stained something or other (Georgian Medium Oak – what else) The facing piece of the rudder head trunk is just dry fitted at this stage. The Locker lids were scribed into the top and micro brass tubing sections used for the hinges. The assembly has yet to be sanded and varnished. It took a full day to make and fit the lockers and associated bits after which the stern counter timbers were fitted. It’s always more time consuming making it up as you go along without a specific plan to work to. The rudder head trunk can’t be completed until the stern post is in, but there will be access before the Quarterdeck is fitted. The following shots show the make -up of the revised stern arrangement. The stern counters are now fixed, necessary before attaching the gunport bulwark strips. The painted ‘sail’ cloth is only a template at this stage to gauge the fit and how large the squares should be. I think they will stand some enlargement. The Quarter deck is tried for fit against the end stern counters. I will now make the internal partitions. B.E.

Having fun with planks I have spent no little time of late working out a decking plan for the Upper deck of Pegasus. Things I have decided: 3.4mm x 0.6mm boxwood strip will be used for decking. This is slightly larger than the provided 3mm x 0.5mm Tanganika, but a truer scale. Scale 118mm planks will be used in a four butt shift pattern, that is four planks between butts. Within the centre line area of the deck defined by the main Hatch coamings no butts will be made. This is because with coamings, head ledges, and other centre line obstructions, there was no need for long lengths of decking and therefore no butts. As far as I can see there was no King Plank on the Upper deck, although there was on the Lower deck to take the supporting pillars for the Upper deck. A rough plan was drawn up to mark the butt lines, given the shift pattern and the 118mm plank lengths. The first eight planks are laid full length along the deck either side of the centre line, the various openings are roughly cut out but at this stage not to their full width. The divisions across the deck are an important guide for getting the butts in line and at the correct places. I am far to idle to bother with cotton or paper to represent the caulking, I use a Pilot waterproof broad chisel marker to run down one side of the plank, this gives a good scale look to my eye, at 1:64 anyway. The planking is then laid using 118mm planks in a 5.2.4.1.3 pattern on the Starboard side of the central belt and 5.3.1.4.2. pattern on the Port side, this produces a laid deck with the minimum of butts whilst maintaining the required four planks between each butt in a uniform and symmetrical pattern. Full length deck planking is much preferred to the kit suggested idea of splitting the deck into three sections divided by two athwartships planks separating the waist from the deck beneath the Fo’csle and Quarterdecks. I can’t complete the planking along the edges of the waist until the bulwarks are fitted and the three waist bulkhead extensions are removed. Micro drill holes are made for the butt end treenails which as present are marked with pencil lead, I have not decided as yet to go the extra mile and fit actual trenails, the plank width is very small for this and there is a risk of splitting. At 1:64 scale I don’t think they should be too prominent, and for this reason I don’t intend to add the intermediate trenails along the planks, it may end up looking like a spotted deck, something I certainly don’t want. For now it’s back to fairing and doing a little internal fitting work at the stern. B.E.

Fitting the False (Upper) deck Although I had added additional support beams for the deck the area around the Mainmast and Main hatch was unsupported and is very flimsy. To beef things up a little I fitted three support posts along the centre line of the deck in this area upon which the Upper deck join now rests. The lower false deck was planked beneath the Fore and Main Hatches, I used some Tanganyika surplus to my Pickle Build. The 1mm plywood under-deck was fitted and to provide further stability and give a greater perception of depth I also lined the hatches with 2x2mm strip. The under-deck is now rigid enough to start planking. Looking ahead I note that in the build instructions separate Capstans are shown as fitted on the Upper deck and Quarterdeck. This doesn’t strike me as true, they should really be connected, and that is my intention. Not a mast but a piece for lining up the two capstans. The Hatch linings can also be seen on this shot. I have removed some of the keel extension below the Upper deck so that the spindle extends below the deck for stability. The corresponding hole in the Quarterdeck is aligned, but a small recess needs to be cut in the aft face of deck beam 9A to allow free passage of the spindle. I have had a re-think on the Bulkhead 13, I still had niggling concerns about the security of the counter timbers when I attach the stern facia. I have now modified the original bulkhead 13 and utilised the ply counter timbers provided with the kit albeit made more appropriate by the removal of the solid centres. This will provide for a stronger framework; the outer stern counter patterns are yet to be fitted. All dry fitted at this point, I will leave gluing the stern bulkhead as late as possible to avoid the risk of breakage. There is now a clear run of decking thro’ to the stern, ready for planking. I am toying with the idea of fitting the hatch ledges and coamings before I plank but I need to fully weigh up the pros and cons before I decide. If I were building pof I would have to do that way. The area aft of bulkhead 13 will be filled by the Rudder head case and two tiers of lockers running up to the stern lights. This is a viable modification for those who wish to open up the stern area on this kit without going to the trouble of making a separate wing transom and counter timbers. Nothing in the external profile of the original kit has been changed. B.E.

Dust, dust and yet more dust My least favourite part of a build such as this, adding and shaping the balsa fillers. I have taken the fillers at the bow back to bulkhead 4, this should provide a good surface both for fairing and planking. Getting there, but a little way to go. Trouble with balsa it crumbles around the edges like a fine bit of cheddar, but small imperfections won’t affect the planking line. The balsa blocks will also provide additional stability for the false deck. There is one more bit of filler to add –that between the last bulkhead shown above and the final bulkhead yet to be fitted; I won’t do that yet until the fairing is all but complete for risk of snapping the rather delicate bulkhead 13. For now it’s back to dust, dust, and yet more dust. B.E.

A bevelling we will go The kit instructions say to roughly bevel the bulkheads at the stern and bows before fitting to avoid damaging the walnut keel and prow, and for ease of access. This is ok up to a point but how rough is rough, I didn’t see any reference to using an Angle grinder for rough work. Only kidding but there is a danger of taking too much off at the wrong angle without the bulkheads being fixed in position so that fairing planks can be used to gauge the correct bevel angle. This is as much bevelling I did off the model, the bow plank termination patterns are also fixed in place. I prefer to bevel with the bulkheads firmly fixed and take it slowly using sanding sticks. I am perhaps fortunate with my kit that the bulkheads are mdf, much easier to work than the plywood I understand is provided in some kits, so I don’t anticipate too much of a problem working them in situ. Bulkheads 1 -11 were initially glued to the keel, alignment being made with the provided false deck, fitted but not glued at this stage. This part of the build really does go together well; accurately cut snug fitting parts that are a joy to work with. The two stern bulkheads 12 and 13 will be fitted later. The build was then set aside to cure overnight. Once dry the Lower (false) deck was secured using pva. Bulkhead (12) fixed into place, and the Plank termination patterns fitted having been roughly shaped. There is a need to beef up a couple of the bulkheads to provide a little extra deck support. Could also do with some around the Mainmast area which falls between two bulkheads, but I'm not sure that's feasible. Additions made to bulkheads 5 and 6. I decide to remove the keel extensions between bulkheads 11, 12, and 13 completely. Additional support will be provided by beams pinned between the bulkhead centres at the top. The rather flimsy Upper deck which comes in two halves was tried for size and it fits just like a jigsaw. There is now a clear run of deck thro’ to the stern, although a small extra piece of ‘false’ deck will need to be fashioned. Even at this early stage the nice lines of a Swan Class Sloop are apparent. The instructions suggest dividing the planking into three areas, the exposed waist being separate to the planking beneath the Foc’sle and Quarterdeck. They also suggest planking the (false) Upper deck area that will be covered by the Foc’sle and Quarterdecks, before the deck is fitted, with athwartships strips dividing the waist area from the rest of the deck. To an experienced eye this looks very odd and is not a correct way to plank a deck. I will plank the whole deck with the (false) Upper deck in place and run the planks from the stern to the bow using either a three or four shift pattern, not quite decided yet. I have drawn out a plan of the deck to work out my planking strategy. Quarterdeck in place. Foc’sle in place Again the fit leaves little to be desired. I think the stern mod will work ok, but the last bulkhead will not be fixed in place until I have inserted the balsa blocks and faired the bow area of the ship. The decks and beams now have to be dismantled. B.E.

Working up ideas This part of a build is not the most interesting for the casual peruser, but it may help those who may build this kit in the future, and may be tempted into a bit of unofficial dockyard bashing. One of the things I want to do is to modify the stern bulkheads 12 and 13 and open up the Great cabin area,(such as it is in such a pokey little vessel) and with open access thro the Quarter badge lights. For the quarter badges the critical thing is where the bulkhead frames come in relation to the opening thro’ the gunport pattern that will have to be cut. To this end a tracing was made of the framing profile (plan5) which was superimposed over the external profile (plan 4) and the quarter badge light traced on. This was then transferred to the ply gunport pattern to fix its position. With the kit arrangement part of bulkhead 13 cuts across where the light would be, so that’s a non starter without modification. Bulkhead 12 presents no problem and has been opened up between the deck level and outside frame edge. The top of the bulkhead with its formed camber I have left in as a deck beam. This modification has no critical effect on the kit should I get an attack of the yips and revert to the given plan. A NEW Bulkhead 13 was made using spare mdf. The outside profile is the same as the provided bulkhead but the inner area was removed and two mortices were cut to take modified stern counter pieces (23) These were cut from walnut sheet and now form what would be two of the solid plywood stern counter timbers. I have a slight worry that the modified stern counter pieces may prove to be a weak point without additional bracing when the stern piece is put into place. The modified last bulkhead, with the kit version below. The shaded area of the keel above the deck line should be removed but I am toying with the idea of cutting out an inverted ‘L’ shape for the larger section which would provide both a deck support and a support for cabin partitioning. The smaller aft keel extension will be removed. All wip at present with not a sniff of glue as yet; once I’m clear on how I’m going to proceed at the stern I can dismantle it all and start bevelling. B.E.

Pegasus on the stocks 29 December 2010 I make this post really to fix the start date for the build. Modifications with this kit starts quite early in the build with the marking of a bearding line and cutting of a rabbet along the keel and up the stem. I feel vaguely irritated that the instructions did not make mention of either, although they do say to sand the stern area to half its width, but elaborate no further. To mark the rabbet I drew a 1.5mm line along the bottom edge of the keel and temporarily fixed strips of 1mm x 2.5mm styrene along the centre of the keel with c.a. A chisel blade was then used to cut the rabbet using the styrene and the line as a guide. Once completed the styrene strip can be removed. The MDF keel was very easy to cut which bodes well for chamfering the bulkheads. Styrene strip was also used to provide the sanding line for the bearding strip, which should allow for a reduction to 2.5mm. It would be better if the bearding line had been shown on the plans. The separate prow section of the keel was attached using PVA, best done whilst the keel can be laid flat to centre it on the keel. I have marked but not cut the rabbet where it crosses the tab on the Walnut prow, didn’t want to risk snapping that area off. Don’t even know at this stage whether the rabbet is required in this area, but best cut whilst the keel can be laid flat, it can always be filled in if not required. I like this mdf bulkhead lark they fit together superbly, and are easier to work than the plywood equivalents. The Building board is completed and she sits patiently on the stocks for work to begin. B.E.

PEGASUS LOG INDEX SUBJECT PAGE Post No. SUBJECT PAGE Post No. Keel, bulkhead, and early stages one 3 The Binnacle. 61 modify the stern bulkheads 4 The Wheel 61 Upper deck planking 8 The Tiller 61 Opening up the great cabin 9.10.26 Rigging the Ship’s wheel 62 Galley stove 11 Fitting out the waist 63 Coamings 12 Gun side tackles 64 Capstans and pump covers 13 Gangways and Gangplanks 65 Gunport patterns. 14-15 Gallows modification 66 First planking. 16-20 Rhodings, Winches and Axletrees. 66 Second Planking 21-23 The Quarterdeck Breast rail 67 Bulwark planking 24 Stern Gallery, fixing and modifications three 68-71 Spirketting, Scuppers. 27 Fo’csle Cathead fitting 72 Main Wales. 30-34 The Headworks 73-75 The subject of guns two 35-37 Pegasus head figure 76 Frieze work. 39-41 Quarterdeck Bulwark rails 77 Foc’sle deck. 42 Quarterdeck rails & swivel gun mounts 78 Elm Tree Pumps 43 Port lids 79 The Quarterdeck Upper Capstan 44 Topside decoration 80 That waterline business 45 The Fish davit 81 Copper sheathing 46 Channels. 82 Looking at the Rudder 47 Deadeyes, Chains, and Preventer plates 83 Time for a little gun blacking. 48-50 Waist Stanchions 84 Swivel Guns 51 Bolsters, Billboards, and Linings. 85 Beneath the Foc'sle modifications 52-53 Anchors for Pegasus 86-87 Foc’sle deck 54 -55 The Stern Lantern 88-90 The Foc’sle Rail and Belfry 56 Rudder Coat and chains 90 guns beneath the Quarterdeck 57 Hatch Guard Rails. four 91 Quarterdeck fitting 58-59 The Boats of a Sloop of War 92 Quarterdeck Fittings two 60 Building a 1:64 scale 25’ Pinnace 93-99 The Quarterdeck Upper Capstan 61 A 19 foot Longboat for Pegasus 100-107 Masting and Rigging Index Part two 111

My four year build log has alas fallen victim to the latest system upgrade, and like the ship she represents is now presumed lost, as Pegasus was in 1777. To re-instate all the information contained within the orginal log which ran for over 100 pages is a bit of an ask but where I can pick up the information quickly I will include it in this replacement log with priority being given to specific aspects where I have modified the basic kit, to produce the model which is now allbut finished. My log which was first posted in 2013 lacked much of the earlier stages of the build which had been going since 2010, and this revision will include aspects of the earlier build stages which may assist those embarking on a new Swan build adventure. I would like to thank all those members who have shown interest in my build over the past four years, and for the many appreciative comments and 'likes' I received. I still can't believe that over 257,000 visits were made to the log, but it is nice to think that it was of use to the membership. Also thank you to those who have messaged me with kind words about the loss of the original log, and with offers of help. Hopefully this revised version, risen from the ashes, will continue to provide useful information to the membership, particularly those involved with Swan Class Sloops. B.E. 5th March 2017

A job well done Sean, and a great result, you should be very proud of your achievement. A beautiful model and I think Augie will be nodding in complete agreement. B.E.

I think that looks very good Jason, you have got a nice curve on the Quarter Gallery which is easy on the eye, so many of these items end up looking wedge shaped. Love your moulding, light years ahead of the other options. B.E.

Nice work bug, love that last shot, Augie would be proud of you. B.E.

Well done Jon, a fine model, beautifully displayed. B.E.

I am awed by the sheer magnificance of this build Nils. B.E.

I tend to use 0.1mm diameter line for serving, but if I think the true scale size of the line to be served would look too bulky, I reduce the size of the line to be served to allow for this. How it fits around any scale heart or block also has to be taken into account, sometimes compromises are required to get the right effect. You should start a build log, don't think there are any other examples of Liverpool on here. Cheers, B.E.

Tom, this is a link to the online version of Steel's The Elements and Practice of Rigging And Seamanship, 1794, http://www.hnsa.org/resources/manuals-documents/age-of-sail/the-elements-and-practice-of-rigging-and-seamanship/ Hope you find it useful. B.E.

Hi Tom, I would be inclined to use hearts at that date. My reading of Lees (page 40) is that deadeyes were used for the lower stays up to 1690, and hearts thereafter. Steel's description is: THE FORE-STAY has a heart turned in the lower end with a throat-seizing, and two round seizings above, and the end of the stay capped with canvas, whipped and tarred, then set up with a laniard, that reeves alternately through the heart in the stay and the heart in the fore-stay-collar on the bowsprit. The first four turns lie in scores cut in the hearts, and are tallowed, that the strain may be immediately given to all the turns at once. The laniard is then strained tight by tackles, thus: The upper block of a luff-tackle is hooked to a selvagee fastened round the stay, and the lower block is hooked with a cats-paw to the laniard: then the outer-block of another luff-tackle is hooked with a cats-paw to the fall of the other tackle, and the inner block hooked where most convenient. The fall leads in upon deck, and is swayed by all hands. Then two of the turns, are stopt together with a rope-yarn to prevent their coming up, and more turns taken, and hove on, as before, till the laniard is expended; the end is then well stopped. THE PREVENTER-STAY is set up the same as the fore-stay. THE MAIN-STAY sets up, as the fore-stay, to a heart seized in the bight of the main-stay-collar above the bowsprit-chock. Steel does make reference to the use of deadeyes as an alternative to hearts for the Bobstays and Bowsprit shrouds. Regards, B.E.

I did find a painting by Robert Cleveley who was an eye witness at the time of the war, and served aboard the Asia as Clerk to the Captain. His painting The Occupation of Newport appears to show the British ships wearing the White Ensign. Here's the link. https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=The+invasion+of+Rhode+Island+1776&hl=en&biw=1344&bih=720&site=webhp&tbm=isch&imgil=Z2s-ScLsU8jJBM%253A%253BcbZkZQl7q4-2JM%253Bhttps%25253A%25252F%25252Fen.wikipedia.org%25252Fwiki%25252FBattle_of_Rhode_Island&source=iu&pf=m&fir=Z2s-ScLsU8jJBM%253A%252CcbZkZQl7q4-2JM%252C_&usg=__31uR3SrjjSHMASyy1AWWM1HDLlw%3D&ved=0ahUKEwjF_8P10IrSAhXlKcAKHUvkCQMQyjcIPQ&ei=z16gWIXcG-XTgAbLyKcY#imgrc=ZROkdfV977raoM: There is a colour print of this painting on the cover of a book I have called Navies and the American Revolution 1775 - 1783 (Chatham Pictorial Histories) and the painting clearly shows a White Ensign on the ships right and centre. ps: you will find many photo's of my Pegasus build on my log - click on the link below my name. Cheers, B.E.

Ensigns can be a tricky issue Tom. At the time Liverpool was serving in the American Station Vice Admiral Richard Howe was in Command. It would follow but not exclusively that ships of his squadron would wear his colours. The question is was Lord Howe, Vice Admiral of the Red, White, or Blue? I'm not sure, and the info I have doesn't mention this fact. If you can find some contemporary paintings of the naval engagements around 1778 this may show the Ensign colours. I don't think anyone would gainsay you whatever Ensign colour you use provided it isn't the 1801 version. I will be using the Red Ensign on my Pegasus, which was heading for Newfoundland when she was lost in 1777. Regards, B.E.

Hi Tom, are we talking about HMS Liverpool 1758-1778, 28 gun Coventry Class 6th Rate? B.E.

I have not used that method but it seems very tortuous to me. At 1:96 scale the line should be at 0.1mm diameter, and have a clear differential to the shroud line. My approach would be to trial both a clove hitch and a simple overhand knot and choose which I thought looked the best. It may be that at 1:96 scale the overhand knot may look neater. I tend to use the overhand knot at smaller scales, it is my preferred method of choice for scales down to around 1:150 B.E.