Blue Ensign

Your hull looks magnificent Ron, top class.
 
Regarding the use of  'black' iron for the Horseshoes and Fish plates, that would be correct for an uncoppered hull. The cuprous alloy versions would be used on a coppered hull.
 
B.E.

Hi Ronald, the gap does look a little wide to my eye.
I didn't use the kit set-up on my build of Sphinx, I opted for a working version of gudgeons and pintles and tweaked the set up until my eye was satisfied.
 
On Indefatigable I did use the kit simplified version but they look a little closer than on your photo.
 
Could you perhaps countersink the holes on the stern post to allow the gudgeon to sit further in?
 
B.E.

The hull looks wonderful Ronald, beautiful work. The lower hull planking is very impressive.
 
B.E.

Excellent work Ronald, it looks spot on👏
 
B.E.

Post Seven
The gratings are secured in place using tiny spots of ca but I have found with my previous small boat builds that small enough not to spread thro’ the gratings with an annoying shiny reflection, is not always sufficient to hold securely, we shall see.

9395
I took the precaution of cutting a pattern to fit over the gratings to protect the surface during the extensive messing around inside the boat to come.

9394
The ribs are easily fitted given the notches in the grating pattern, and they do stiffen up the hull.

9393
There is an adequate supply of strip for this purpose.
There are one or two little bits to fit as per sections 32- 35 of the blurb, but back in section 13 there is a part B25 indicated, which as far as I can see is not mentioned again.

9389(2)
I suspect it may have something to do with the Foredeck but If it is, I think the instructions need re-visiting to be more specific in this area.

9388(2)
It’s not an easy match in any case, and the foredeck fitting has issues. If the notched back edge is intended to slot into the second bulkhead, then the first bulkhead should sit below the gunwale.

9292(2)
The first bulkhead and bow pieces are level with the gunwale.
(The bow stem extension has broken off, but that is easily fixed.)

9393(2)
This bulkhead, from the photos appears to form the vertical face of the fore platform.

9390
This rather unflattering macro of the bow end demonstrates the issues.
(Part of the Pearwood bulkhead on the port side snapped off during trimming.)
 
The problem is how to model the fore platform.
To use part B25, the first bulkhead would need to be rebated to accept the part, not an easy task at this point.
 
My thoughts are that the second bulkhead be infilled and brought level with the first bulkhead, and a piece fashioned to fit.
If this stands a tad proud of the top line planking, it can be used to support a bow wash strake.
 
I need to ponder this awhile, but until it’s sorted, I can’t really move forward with this build.
 
B.E.
17/11/2022
 
 

Post Three
Bevelled bow patterns have been attached.

9202
These are tricky to hold for bevelling, I use my toolmakers clamp which works very well.

9211
Before the fairing is started, I add support blocks to protect the Flying Transom; at this stage it is very vulnerable.
 
For the fairing I am using 320 grade paper attached to various width sanding sticks. Being mdf the fairing is quickly done, the four bulkheads from the bow and stern are the ones involved.
 
As with all this range of boats the first plank rests on the shoulder of the bulkheads to give the correct line and sheer.
 
More easily said than done at the bow in relation to the Barge.
The bows of Barges were fairly bluff so there is a tight turn from the stem around the first two bulkheads.

9213
Coupled with this there is a sharp drop in shoulder levels from Bulkhead 1 to bulkhead 3 requiring lateral bending also of a greater curve than is easily achieved.
The instructions don’t mention any need for lateral bending on the first strake, only referring to tapering from the second strake plank.
To secure the planks spots of ca are used from the stem to the third bulkhead, and pva thereafter.

9217
After a fair bit of fiddling around including breaking the end off the first plank, I am relieved they are finally fitted.
 
I derived a small amusement that the box contained the statement Not suitable for children under 36 months
Double that, call it years, and then some, and I still wonder if it’s suitable.😉
 
I don’t think this is going to be an easy planking job.
 
Close examination of the prototype pics indicate that stealers have been employed at the bow and what look like broader planks for some of the strakes towards the keel.

Prototype close-up – the pdf photos are a little small for detail, but it can be seen how James achieved the result.
 
This will get the job done and as the hull is intended to be painted such simplifications are perhaps less relevant.
However, I will try to attempt a more conventional arrangement.
 
From the second plank tapering is indicated.

9222
I opted to leave the plank full, but edge bend it to follow the first.
 
On the question of tapering, the planks used are 2mm x 0.8mm which makes it difficult to adopt the usual tapering method of cutting the line using rule and scalpel.
Tapering is done by means of scraping and careful sanding on a flat board to finish. Any tapering should not exceed half the plank width ie 1mm.
Fortunately, I do have some 0.8mm Pearwood Strips in varying widths, which will give more options.

9228
It is more difficult edge bending the kit lengths as it has to be done at the end of the strip which is obviously less flexible.
Having soaked the planks, the bend was induced by hand, fitted to the hull, held in place as above, and blasted with the hairdryer.

9236(2)
Spots of ca are used to secure at the bow, with pva along the edge joints, and sparingly on the bulkheads, which will eventually be removed.

9234

9237(2)
The sheer of the hull can be seen in these shots.

9241(2)
Note the blocks glued to the base board to protect the delicate stem.
 
 Hours of unremitting fun now to be had completing the hull planking.🙄
 
B.E.
06/11/2022
 
 
 

Post Two
Not the most exciting part of a build, but I don’t think James has covered the Barge in his build logs, so I’ll run thro’ the initial stage.
 
The bulkheads fit snugly into the building board to the underside of which a grip is glued to secure in a vice.

9165
In short order the next stage is to fit the delicate Pearwood keel.
This is a soft hands procedure and care must be taken not to force the keel slots into the bulkhead slots which are very fine particularly those at the bow and stern.
I tested each keel slot against its bulkhead partner before attempting the keel fit.
9170

9167
The keel is eased into position, and I ensure it sits fully down on the bulkheads.

9173
The keel is also checked for true. Once satisfied diluted pva was run into the joints.

9186
Unlike other boats in the range the barge has a sub-deck. To fit this four of the bulkhead bridges have to be removed to allow access.

9177

9189

9192
One of the advantages of the sub-deck is that it should help to counter twist in the bulkheads once the fairing begins.

9193
The arms of the Flying Transom are glued into place.

9199
Fitting the Flying Transom is a tricky business, I opted to glue the arms to the fixed transom first, and then slotted the Flying transom between before the pva hardened off.
 
The hull is now set aside for the glue to set.
 
B.E.
04/11/2022
 
 
 

I am still not ready to move onto a larger project, but I have had for a while an example of Vanguard Models 36’ Admirals Barge circa 1750.
I have included this build in the 1751-1800 section as it generally reflects the style from the middle to late 18th century.

09158
At £48 this is the most expensive of the current boat range, an added incentive not to cock it up.
The model has a length of 165mm - 6½” in old money – still pretty small to fit in the extra detail applicable to an Admiral’s Barge.

09160
The kit follows the build method common to this Vanguard range, plank over inverted bulkheads using Pearwood planks.

09162
Brass etch is provided for the footwaling and decoration, but the provided brass etch panelling has been replaced with Pearwood detailing also included in the kit.
 
I do have a fondness for this type of boat, having built three Pinnaces and Queen Anne’s Barge, and this bijou version presents some interesting challenges.
It is fortunate that there are several contemporary models of Barges in the NMM at 1:24 scale from which to draw detail.
One thing that catches my eye is that the kit is set up for double banked rowing - thole pins both sides for each thwart, and two rowers per thwart.
The contemporary models of this period invariably show Barges set up for single banking - one rower to each thwart seated alternatively port and starboard, with a longer oar shipped over the opposite side of the boat to the rower.

0929
A mock-up on my Pinnace build shows the arrangement for single banked rowing.
 
This is all a fair way ahead in the build and need not concern me yet.
Basics first.
 
 
B.E.
03/11/2022
 
 
 

Post 5
Fitting the Bulwarks.
As is usual with Vanguard kits the bulwarks come in two sections (Fore and aft) of 1mm Pearwood strip.
They are marked on the interior with the frame positions and a useful fitting line which sits level with the deck line.

5623a
I dry fit them and use heat to reduce the spring before gluing and pinning.

5650a

5652a
Glue is not applied to the bulkhead extensions which are later removed.
The stern counter frames require fairing to allow the counter pattern to fit cleanly across all frames.

5634a
The counter pattern is wetted before clamping to the frames for better conformation and allowed to dry out. This can be speeded up by applying heat.

5642a

5645a
With the bulwarks and counter in place the stern timbers are   better secured against accidental damage.
 
 
B.E.
06/09/2025
 

Post 5
Fitting the Bulwarks.
As is usual with Vanguard kits the bulwarks come in two sections (Fore and aft) of 1mm Pearwood strip.
They are marked on the interior with the frame positions and a useful fitting line which sits level with the deck line.

5623a
I dry fit them and use heat to reduce the spring before gluing and pinning.

5650a

5652a
Glue is not applied to the bulkhead extensions which are later removed.
The stern counter frames require fairing to allow the counter pattern to fit cleanly across all frames.

5634a
The counter pattern is wetted before clamping to the frames for better conformation and allowed to dry out. This can be speeded up by applying heat.

5642a

5645a
With the bulwarks and counter in place the stern timbers are   better secured against accidental damage.
 
 
B.E.
06/09/2025
 

Post 4
Fairing and fittings
A stove for Erycina
It is certain that a small stove was contained within the cabin of Erycina but the kit only shows the Flue pipe emerging above deck.

5585a
Before I begin fairing I knocked up a small stove to check the fit and position for the line of the flue pipe.
It is a tiny thing measuring only 12mm x 6mm.

5593a
The main objective is to see how it looks in the cabin position.

5595a
I think it will pass muster, at least to a blind man on a galloping horse.
 
Fairing is straightforward on Erycina, it’s nice to have a hull that will fit in one hand to work on.

5600a

5604a
A careful check is made to ensure that a test board will fit tightly against the deck edge and bulkhead ears.

5607a

5608a
Similarly, all points of the faired bulkhead edges are checked using a test board to ensure full contact down to the keel.

5612a

5616a

5620a
The final stage of this section is the addition of the Pearwood  keel, Bow and sternpost parts. They all slot perfectly together into the false keel.
 
B.E.
03/09/2025

Post 3
Stern timber frames
These are the long and vulnerable mdf stern timbers that set alarm bell ringing in my ears.
Great care is required not to stress or knock in the early build stages; repairs could prove tricky.

5572a
I found that careful sanding of the slots, and trial fitting was required to achieve a firm but not overtight fit which may have created difficulty if subsequent removal was necessary.

5573a
Fitting support pieces between the timbers is advisable. I use styrene foam pieces which are ideal.
Once the bulwarks are fitted this area becomes less at risk.

5567a

5569a
This is now the time to fit the ply sub-deck which will secure the bulkheads from lateral flex during fairing. Another testy little exercise.

5580a
The deck is taped square on the cutting mat to mark and remove the section above the cabin, a margin is allowed for some final trimming.

5582a
The bulkhead slots are tested for ease of fitment and having fully inserted the deck into the port side slots I work along the starboard side from fore to aft individually flexing and pressing the deck into place at each slot.

5584a
There is always fear of breaking something with this exercise, but firm and steady pressure get the job done.
I was pleased to see that the deck sits tight against the bulkheads and stern timbers, no pressure necessary to hold the deck down.
The hull is now rock steady for the fairing process to begin.
 
B.E.
01/09/2025

Thankyou Trevor, makes a lot of sense.👍
 
Post 2
Stern cabin area
My idea is to fit out the cabin, certainly with the iron stove which will connect to the flue pipe emerging thro’ the deck, and  maybe with other fittings as space allows.
A section of deck will be left unplanked above the cabin.
 
Modifying the cabin area is tricky, partly because work on Bulkhead 12 is more extensive, and because it proved too difficult to remove for shaping without risking damage and therefore had to be modified insitu.
The filler pieces between the bulkheads prevented removal.
 
Bulkhead 11 is closed off as this forms the partition between the cabin and the Boiler room.
Bulkhead 12 bears the brunt of modification with large sections removed to create frames and beams. Tricky to get at to shape and sand.

5552a
In this area the longitudinal bracing patterns are removed and replaced with Pear carlings.

5553a
Bulkhead 11 is boarded using Boxwood strip and Whitewashed.  A doorway leads to the Boiler room and the door is created from Boxwood strip and decorated with Syren hinges and Handle.

5554a

5557a
The cabin deck area is planked with Boxwood strip.

5559a
Similarly, the Fish hold is decked out using Boxwood strip.

5565a
A paper deck print is used to determine the viewable area.
Still work in progress, but you get the idea.
 
B.E.
31/08/2025

Your hull looks magnificent Ron, top class.
 
Regarding the use of  'black' iron for the Horseshoes and Fish plates, that would be correct for an uncoppered hull. The cuprous alloy versions would be used on a coppered hull.
 
B.E.

I regret to say that the cannon certainly is not a good example of a well made product.

She looks a fine model fully rigged Glenn, well done.
Too nice not to be on display.
 
B.E.

I regret to say that the cannon certainly is not a good example of a well made product.

She looks a fine model fully rigged Glenn, well done.
Too nice not to be on display.
 
B.E.

I have now completed all the the work on my Harpy build. This has been one of my most enjoyable builds. I have made a few mistakes during the build and rigging process but overall I am very happy with how the finished model looks.
 
@chris watton continues to set a very high bar with the standard of his kits and I am looking forward to starting my next project which will be The Baltimore Privateer Schooner Grecian.
 
Many thanks to everyone who has viewed my build log and for the likes and comments.
 

I regret to say that the cannon certainly is not a good example of a well made product.

Post 5
Fitting the Bulwarks.
As is usual with Vanguard kits the bulwarks come in two sections (Fore and aft) of 1mm Pearwood strip.
They are marked on the interior with the frame positions and a useful fitting line which sits level with the deck line.

5623a
I dry fit them and use heat to reduce the spring before gluing and pinning.

5650a

5652a
Glue is not applied to the bulkhead extensions which are later removed.
The stern counter frames require fairing to allow the counter pattern to fit cleanly across all frames.

5634a
The counter pattern is wetted before clamping to the frames for better conformation and allowed to dry out. This can be speeded up by applying heat.

5642a

5645a
With the bulwarks and counter in place the stern timbers are   better secured against accidental damage.
 
 
B.E.
06/09/2025
 

Post 5
Fitting the Bulwarks.
As is usual with Vanguard kits the bulwarks come in two sections (Fore and aft) of 1mm Pearwood strip.
They are marked on the interior with the frame positions and a useful fitting line which sits level with the deck line.

5623a
I dry fit them and use heat to reduce the spring before gluing and pinning.

5650a

5652a
Glue is not applied to the bulkhead extensions which are later removed.
The stern counter frames require fairing to allow the counter pattern to fit cleanly across all frames.

5634a
The counter pattern is wetted before clamping to the frames for better conformation and allowed to dry out. This can be speeded up by applying heat.

5642a

5645a
With the bulwarks and counter in place the stern timbers are   better secured against accidental damage.
 
 
B.E.
06/09/2025
 

Post 5
Fitting the Bulwarks.
As is usual with Vanguard kits the bulwarks come in two sections (Fore and aft) of 1mm Pearwood strip.
They are marked on the interior with the frame positions and a useful fitting line which sits level with the deck line.

5623a
I dry fit them and use heat to reduce the spring before gluing and pinning.

5650a

5652a
Glue is not applied to the bulkhead extensions which are later removed.
The stern counter frames require fairing to allow the counter pattern to fit cleanly across all frames.

5634a
The counter pattern is wetted before clamping to the frames for better conformation and allowed to dry out. This can be speeded up by applying heat.

5642a

5645a
With the bulwarks and counter in place the stern timbers are   better secured against accidental damage.
 
 
B.E.
06/09/2025
 

Post 5
Fitting the Bulwarks.
As is usual with Vanguard kits the bulwarks come in two sections (Fore and aft) of 1mm Pearwood strip.
They are marked on the interior with the frame positions and a useful fitting line which sits level with the deck line.

5623a
I dry fit them and use heat to reduce the spring before gluing and pinning.

5650a

5652a
Glue is not applied to the bulkhead extensions which are later removed.
The stern counter frames require fairing to allow the counter pattern to fit cleanly across all frames.

5634a
The counter pattern is wetted before clamping to the frames for better conformation and allowed to dry out. This can be speeded up by applying heat.

5642a

5645a
With the bulwarks and counter in place the stern timbers are   better secured against accidental damage.
 
 
B.E.
06/09/2025
 

Post 5
Fitting the Bulwarks.
As is usual with Vanguard kits the bulwarks come in two sections (Fore and aft) of 1mm Pearwood strip.
They are marked on the interior with the frame positions and a useful fitting line which sits level with the deck line.

5623a
I dry fit them and use heat to reduce the spring before gluing and pinning.

5650a

5652a
Glue is not applied to the bulkhead extensions which are later removed.
The stern counter frames require fairing to allow the counter pattern to fit cleanly across all frames.

5634a
The counter pattern is wetted before clamping to the frames for better conformation and allowed to dry out. This can be speeded up by applying heat.

5642a

5645a
With the bulwarks and counter in place the stern timbers are   better secured against accidental damage.
 
 
B.E.
06/09/2025