Blue Ensign

Hi all , after a brief panic about springy planks i finally got them sorted hopefully and although i might have to replace a few planks i decided to go ahead and varnish in the hope that sealing will possibly help prevent any more . Plus im impatient to see how a coat of varnish will affect my color scheme . thankfully it seem alright to me you all can make up your own minds . Itook the pic under lights and dosent really show the correct color but close enough ,might try tomorrow in daylight  .It,s funny how the varnish hides some things and highlights others , brings out the individual planks but also highlights glue stains etc ,but will clean up further before second coat 
 

 
i only varnished to the third wale as still have minor repairs to do above
 

 
Not a springy plank in sight ,,,yet ??
 

 
Although it can,t really be seen here ther is now a yellowish tint to stripes between wales
 

 

 
the wales and the keel are made from the same wood although it dosn,t look it but there is a big variation in the color of the strips and some strips vary greatly even over there own length  ,Sorted a few but then decided the variations would add to the look ,could be proved wrong ??
 

 

 
Relieved to be close to finishing the main hull although still a fair way to go before installing the main deckand there,s still the windows to sort out ,but have a few idea brewing 
 
 
 
 

here are better pics of my hand served collars

working on rigging for bow sprit. served stropps and made hearts using Chucks 3 piece sandwhich method as used on deadeyes. Here is poor photo, will post better pics tomorrow

Thanks B.E. for your kind words. Thanks everyone I will go with how it is doine on the replica. I have started rigging the bowsprit I served the rope by adapting Chucks modelshipways ropewalk.  takes about 20 minutes to make a 30cm length. Does anyone supply made up served rope?
 
I also had a bit of fun, with photoshop using my model hull against the replica. a useful exercise, as it illustrates that the shape is pretty much spot on.

The quarterdeck is now complete. I made and installed the ladder way ladder and railing, the upper main capstan, the mizzen topsail sheet bitts and the wheel.
 
The ladder is boxwood. For the rail, I used some brass stanchions that I had on hand, rather than the PE brass parts from the kit. The PE parts, although nicely done, just seemed too small in cross section and the stanchions I had appeared more appropriate to me. The railing is black wire.
 
The upper main capstan is boxwood and is smaller than the previously made lower main and jeer capstans. Making and fitting the chocks between the whelps was as fiddly as it gets. I added the pawls from boxwood painted black.
 
The bitts are boxwood with simulated sheaves, done just like the previously done fore and main bitts.
 
The wheel uses the kit cast metal parts for the two wheels, with boxwood supports. The wheel rigging enters the deck through strips of boxwood. I had wanted to use wooden wheels, but felt unable to make them without the appropriate tools, and I was unable to locate any of a correct size and appearance after a search of various sites on the web. I've tried to paint the metal wheels to match the boxwood on the model.
 
Next, I'm moving forward to complete work on the forecastle.
 
Bob

Have reworked the galley chimney a bit this afternoon....
 
 
 
 

exhaust will be turned to face leewards, resp. out of the wind
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Build log part 49 to follow...
 
 
 
Nils

The Current State of the Build:
 
The Syren, with a woodcut of Dr. Warren of Bunker Hill fame looking on...
 

Rudder and Transom Decoration:
 
I have had the rudder mostly complete for some time, but I have been holding off on installing it, because I just did not feel up to the task of fabricating gudgeons and pintles.  So I decide not to do that.  I have created simulated gudgeons, but there are no pintles on this model.  For the sake of durability, I decided to pin the rudder to the stern post using three, 0.072" brass rods.  The rods were inserted into pre-drilled holes in the rudder, then used to mark the locations in the stern post.  Once those positions were located, corresponding holes were drilled in the stern post.  Everything was then press fit together.  The small rods were just flexible enough to allow for some fine tuning to get the rudder straight.  
 

 

 
Before I hung the rudder, I decided that I would create a mortise in the rudder head to accept the tiller when it is installed.  I used a drill bit that was the correct size, then used a 2mm micro chisel to square the hole.  Initially I only made the mortise a little more than half the depth of the rudder head, but then decided to go the whole way through, to allow the tiller tenon to pass through the rudder head to be fidded on the after side.
 
 

 

 
I also installed the carved moldings along the transom.  I decide to use the kit provided castings, as I do not feel the call to learn carving at this point.  I started by cleaning the castings up with a burr grinder and added some detail.
 

 
Next I painted them.  In order to give them maximum effect, I painted them with a three tone scheme.  A base color, a slightly darker color for the low spots, and a slightly lighter color for the high spots.  This provides the piece with added depth, and makes it look closer to carved wood.
 

 
Finally I attached it to the transom.
 

 

 

 
 
 

Twelve Pounder Chase Guns:
 
One of the first things that I was able to do after life started to slow down a little bit, was to start on two really small models.  I purchased a gun carriage kit form Chuck Passaro's Syren Ship Model Company.  I also purchased the beautifully turned brass 12 pounders to go with them.  I had so little time to spend on modeling in March, April and May, that these little models gave me the 5 minute fix that I needed every so often to keep me involved in the hobby.
 
I was very pleased with the products offered by the Syren Ship Model Company.  I have also since had the opportunity to try their blocks and rope, which were of equal quality.
 

 
I bought these pieces to replace the kit provided 12 pounders, though the kit long guns really are not that bad compared to the carronades that are provided.  I made the decision to use an all turned brass armament as a matter of taste, and as a matter or accuracy in the case of the carronades.
 
The downloadable instructions on the Syren Ship Model Company's website were easy to follow, and provided a clear path to not only put the pieces together, but also to add a few details to make the finished carriages all the more realistic.  Another nice touch, is that the carriage kit comes with a few pieces of boxwood stock to make pieces such as the quoin and it handle.
 
I used a 1/16" square piece chucked into my rotary tool, and a small file to produce the tiny handles.
 

 

 

 
Next I filed the quoins to shape, then drilled the correct size hole in the back of the quoin to accept the handle.
 

 

 
I also added a few of the details suggested in the downloadable directions, such as simulated bolt heads, and the suggestion of a two piece carriage side made by scoring a line across the piece.  You will notice in the picture of the completed carriage, that one of the "bolts" came through the inside of the carriage.  I have since fixed the problem, being a "bolt" that was too long, and forced into the pre-drilled hole.
 

 
I still have to install the gun retention straps, and associated ring bolts into the carriage, but I am holding out on that until it is time to install the finished cannon onto the deck.
 
More updates to follow shortly!

The companionway/binnacle.
 
Pieces and parts.
 


 
Starting to build it up
 

 

 
The doors will be added after a wipe-on poly session tomorrow.
 

Thanks Richard.
 
Glad you found the site of interest Lukas.
 
Hi Martin, I also have an optivisor but it irritates me to wear it too long, I prefer my extra strength  prescription specs but I think they need upgrading now.
 
Thanks for looking in Neal, this is how I did the base and water.
 
The base is constructed out of cardboard with a wooden framework.
 

The cardboard top has been sprayed with varnish to seal it, followed by coats of rattle can colours in blues and green.

A 10mm wide strip of tape surrounds the top, this will form the boundary of the ‘sea’ and strips of limewood will be fitted later, as will the moulding strips for the sides.
 
The wave pattern is then formed using a non silicone sealant working it into shape with a paintbrush handle, and then a wetted paintbrush to smooth and relax the waves a little.
 

As the sealant dries out overnight it clears to show the base coat beneath.
 

 
The 10mm x 2mm edging strips of Lime wood have now been sprayed (Regency Blue) and mitred around the edges; this will provide an even base for the acrylic case top to rest on.
 

A Georgian style moulding surrounds the base which I think is in keeping with a period look. After testing various varnish finishes, pine, dark and mid oaks, I have settled on a light oak satin varnish. This I think provides a good contrast to the dark sea.
 
I cannot completely finish the sea where it butts up to the ship until I am ready to set her in position, but a little application of sealant should then do the trick.
 

 
The colour tonings were then played around with until I reached a look I was satisfied with.
 

 
This was the final effect.
 

At this stage there was a lot left to do on the model, but the base was complete.
 
Regards,
 
B.E.

Beautiful precise work Thomas, nice job on the rudder coat, a practical approach to forming this tricky little item.
 
B.E.

Not much progress as off late due to summer time,golf,fishing and two weeks holiday.
The lower masts and bowsprit will be made from the kit supplied birch dowel and the rest from the walnut upgrade dowel.
 
The masts
The bowsprit was made first,the shape obtained by fitting the blank into my unimat lathe, and then profiled with files and various grades of sandpaper,diameters checked with a micrometer, the lower masts were made as well, I cross referenced the mast dimensions on the plans with those in Anatomy of the ship Diana so if my masts look different from the kit plans that is the reason, although the differences are mainly on the topmasts and the topgallant.
The bowsprit has had the cleats ,saddles and bee parts added and painted yellow ochre lower masts just started.
 
Bowsprit



 
Masts started





 
 
 
 

Hamilton, Mike - thanks for the comments, and also to all for the likes.
 
Sjors - 'fast' is maybe relative 
 
Progressing with the rigging and have started tying off on cleats and pinrails.  Delicate procedure that did result in one of the bulkhead cleats coming loose - mustn't have glued it well enough.  It was a real swine to get back in straight with all the rigging, pin rails and carronades in place.
 
Question:  I'm tying off using the standard figure of 8 around the pin and using a dab of GS-Hypo glue to make doubly sure its secured, do people typically just trim this line off at the pin?  I was planning to simulate rope coils and thinking I can just make all these when everything is done and droop over each pin hiding any loose end.  
 

Hipexec, BE, Alistair, Eamonn, Mike, Hamilton - thanks for the kind words, means a lot coming from you guys.
 
Tim - I'm still struggling with this a little myself but definitely getting my eye in I think.  Thanks for the kind comments
 
Small bit of progress - ratlines are now completed, I say again, ratlines are now completed!  Little bit of a celebration, I haven't found these too bad and have figured out a rhythm that works.  What most bothers me is that I deliberately tried to avoid using line that was too thick to keep it looking the right scale, - I think I ended up with line that still looks a little thick to scale (not horribly so) but I will do differently next time.  Not everything is finally fixed yet, but she's starting to look more like a ship.
 
Started securing some of the various topmast back stays.  I followed the plans on these - why use just a couple of blocks when you could use more!  Next job will be to secure to the pins.
 

A little update . . .  just to show a sign of life . I spent some time figuring out how I want to do the carronades. The following 3 pictures show the current state of the prototype. Obvious points of improvement are the elevation screw (in the picture it is really “screwed” up), the wheels need to be a bit smaller, and the holder for the recoil cable on the gun barrel needs to be more substantial. For all of these issues I have ideas how to change them, but so far my chronic lack of modeling time prevented me from doing it.
 
Thomas
 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

I finished another little detail - the rudder coat. Image one shows the jig and process which I used to make this piece. The finished rudder coat mounted on the stern of the Syren model can be seen in images 2, 3 and 4.
 
Thomas
 
 

Image 1 Jig and process for making the rudder coat
 
 

Image 2
 
 

Image 3
 
 

Image 4
 
 
 

I finished the stern davits. I made them out of pear wood (image 1) and mounted them (image 2) by notching the davits (and not the stern). I felt it would be easier to recover from potential mistakes using this method. Images 3 and 4 show the davits in their final position.
 
Thomas
 
 

Image 1
 
 

Image 2
 
 

Image 3
 
 

Image 4
 

Build log part 48
 
 
 

Rudder / tiller rigged
 

 

 

front ballustrade with ships bell (bell found from Christmas decoration)
 

 
 

and mounted, note : no sidewise spaces, because Access to forecastle deck is by integrated stair
 

the bits on the four front Posts still to be done
 

horizontal layed spare mast parts find their Support Areas...
 
 
 
 
Nils

So I finally got a bit of time and was able to get the forecastle stuff done.  I need to do a wipe on poly session and blacken the cannons/stack.
 
 

The quarterdeck barricade assembled and fitted, no deviation from the kit here. The horizontal rails have some very helpful locating holes pre drilled through them at the points where columns fit. This helped with stability as brass rod was used to pin e various parts together.

 
The ladder sides are made of walnut ply and are both over scale thickness and show the laminate lines.
The ladders were made up and then had the sides thinned down with a disc sander. A thin strip of walnut was added as a veneer over the sides and face. One side was done at a time as they become quite fragile when thinned down so much.
 
Ladders as kit provided.

One side thinned ( upper)

Gorgeous is the word Mike, I really must get around to having my copy framed.
 
Although what appears on plans as decoration is not necessarily translated into actual work on the ship, the Navy Board were notoriously stingy when it came to paying for such items, at least it makes sense in relation to the named ship.
 
Representations of Medusa, Perseus, and the watery kingdom of Poseidon are what you would expect to find. Those 'norman' knights on the kit stern still irk me and if I can work up the courage I may yet cut them out and replace them with something more appropriate.
 
B.E.

A few odds and ends
 
Rudder coat and pendants.
 
I usually make rudder coats out of micro-porus tape as it has a sort of canvas finish to it and has the added advantage of a sticky back.
Rudder coats are a sort of bell shape in plan but cutting a pattern for a particular ship is a matter of trial and error.
 
There should be an element of ‘bag’ in the coat to allow free movement of the rudder
 
This is difficult to achieve without padding out the interior, I use a little cotton wool off a cotton bud for this purpose.
After this it is just a matter of teasing it into shape around the transom and rudder.

The canvas was tarred to waterproof it as much as possible and I have represented this with a black grey finish.

 
The Rudder pendants
 
Evidence is that even smallish vessels like Pickle would have had some system for retaining the rudder after all loss of rudder was no small matter.
I could not find any detailed information exactly how the pendants and chains would have been fitted on Pickle; similar smallish vessels are shown with the pendants taken up over the transom and secured to cleats on the inside. This method would foul the stern gunports in the case of Pickle.

I fitted chains to eyebolts secured in the rudder and to eyebolts in the lower transom, and contented myself with this arrangement for the present.
 
Anchor buoys
 
These too are an essential part of a ships equipment, they need to be clearly seen on the water, and the standard size is 54”x 30” with something in excess of 100’ of line.(475mm)
 
Smaller vessels such as Pickle would have had a smaller version and I scaled mine down to 36” x 20”
I made an egg shaped core from the cone shaped tips of two cheap bic prop pencils and planked these with styrene strip.
 
With the addition of eyebolts either end and 0.25mm line to form the slings and hoops and the job’s done.

I don’t normally adhere to scale lengths of line but in this case I have measured out 18 fathoms of line (scale of course) to coil on the shrouds.

 

 

Nearly there
 
 

Cheers Chris
 
Anchors
 
A white metal anchor is provided with the Pickle kit to be fitted on the Starboard side.
 
I was a little puzzled by this as my research suggested that she should have at least three, two bowers of 6cwt plus a smaller kedge.
I bought a second matching anchor plus a kedge.
 

The observant may have noticed the absence of catheads on Pickle, something that puzzled me somewhat.
 
In my research I discovered that it is entirely possible that catheads were not fitted given the relatively light weight of the anchors, and that a Fish tackle from the Masthead was used to raise the anchor.
 
I may still yet fit one of these to demonstrate the principle.
 

The stocks of the anchors required some fettlin’ to obtain the correct shape and I wasn’t happy with the given dimensions of the anchor rings.
 
The ends of the anchor stocks have been rounded off in accordance with practice of the time.
 
The use of an inside clinch to secure the anchor cable can be seen here. I was tempted to use a Fishermans Bend, an interesting knot, which was sometimes used on smaller anchors, but decided in the end to stick with the clinch.

Jotika suggest that wire is wrapped around a 6mm dia dowel to produce the rings, but this looked out of scale to my eye.
 
As with everything naval, anchor proportions were subject to specific rules, the ring diameter on small anchors is something in the order of 1/8th of the length of the shank.
 
This is 33.15mm so the anchor ring should be in the order of 4mm.
 
After clean up the anchors were painted with humbrol iron grey rather than black, gave a better scale effect I thought.
 
For the iron stock bands Jotika suggest using strips of black cartridge paper,I preferred to use the brass etched framing from their eyelets as the banding.
 
1.3mm line is supplied for the anchor cable; I checked this against known formulae - ½” circumference of line for every foot of maximum hull width.
 
This did indeed work out at 1.3mm Ø line – well done Jotika.

The anchor cable however is far too white for my taste ; I rather thought it would have a sort of greyish appearance so I soaked it in ‘dirty’ water to dull it down.
The anchor is secured to eyebolts fixed atop the rail with thread.

I wasn’t sure about the authenticity of this so I modified the lashing using 23 links to the inch chain to secure the one fastening with chain secured with a rope lashing to a ring bolt in the deck. The second lashing was line secured around the capping rail eyebolt.
The effect I was after with the anchors was a slightly worn/weathered appearance, and to this end I am satisfied with the result.
The Kedge
This is lashed to the Starboard aft bulwark on the Naval Museum model, Jotika did not include one with their kit.

No historical evidence for it but I rather fancied securing it to aft face of the skylight, seemed a reasonable place to store it.

 
B.E.

Sorry you have trouble with your keel Jason it's always disappointing to find a defective part in a kit, particularly one that's so important.
 
Jotika have a good customer support system and it may be useful to send them an e-mail direct and explain the situation, if they live up to their reputation they should send a replacement directly.
 
Cheers,
 
B.E.