Blue Ensign

Gluing the Bulkheads
My approach to gluing the bulkheads is to start with the centre one (0) and then work sequentially aft and forrad.

6804
To get the important first bulkhead set square I use a mini level and Engineer squares.

6805
In addition to vertical planes the square is also used to check that the Bulkheads are square to the keel.
This will be the benchmark against which all the other bulkheads will be lined up.

6810
Each bulkhead in turn is checked with square and level until all are in place.

6812
I also set up a separate keel support base so I can turn and eye-sight along the frame tops.
Well that's the easy bit, progress will inevitably slow as I get into the build proper.
B.E.
 

Thanks Guys
The beginning
Being an American kit all the measurements are in imperial measure whereas we in the old country are now used to the metric system particularly in relation to ship modelling, although perversely I still think in terms of feet and inches, pounds and ounces,  Pints and Gallons etc; in relation to other stuff.
The first job is to thin down the false keel from the bearding line and form the rabbet along the keel and up the stem to take the planking.
The thickness of the false keel is 3mm and it needs to be reduced to around half to form the rabbet.

6767
I have used a strip of 1.50mm wide styrene strip temporarily pva'd along the keel to provide a guide to form the rabbet.

6777
Once the false keel has been fettled I firstly glue the stem piece using pva.

6789
I think it is easier to centre this short piece onto the false keel first, and then line the keel up to it. The scarf also helps hold the long keel piece in place.

6800
With the keel in place it is time to make a temporary working stand. Not very pretty but it will do the job.
 
The Bulkheads are easily removed, and are a good fit, maybe just a tad tight once the glue is applied, so a very fine sanding of the notches  to ease their passage will be done.

6797

6798
Dry fitting the Bulkheads, no issues with the bulkhead centres, so I will proceed to fettle the notches and start assembly.
B.E.
 
 

Me too😀
 
B.E.
 
 

My Pegasus build was my last foray into the world of 1:64 scale Square Rigged ships.
My future projects will consist of larger scale models of smaller vessels.
Chuck's beautifully designed kits of the Pinnace and the Longboat fall perfectly into this category, and the Pinnace will be my new project. I used the Pinnace plans to produce the reduced scale scratch versions for my Pegasus build.
It has been some six years since I last planked a hull and I'm feeling quite ring rusty, so I will have to do some serious revision of the art.
Not quite decided as yet whether to go with the provided Limewood, or upgrade to Boxwood
There are some excellent Pinnace builds on MSW as well as Chuck's own exemplary build, and I am grateful to the work of Mike Y and MikeB4 whose logs I will browse to assist my own effort.
May be a while before I have anything to usefully show, but here's the 'mini' version as a place holder.

Cheers,
B.E.

Kind of you to say so John, and enjoy your new build, the Swan's make great models😊
B.E.

Thanks Tom, but it's only for my personal interest, and I know who I am  
 
Hi Dirk, I paid £72.00  for the maximum number of pages (120), the basic album is (24 pages)
It would have cost me not far short of that in printer ink to do it myself on my inkjet, and without the professional binding.
 
Cheers,
 
B.E.

As I mentioned in an earlier post,  I have used some of my post build time to create a Photo Album of my build utilising some of the many photo's taken over the course of the build.
The album is large format (28 x 21cm) and runs to 120 pages.
The book has now arrived and I thought you may like to see how it worked out.
The book was designed and created from software downloaded from Vistaprint.  who then produced the Album.
Here's are a few pages to give you a glimpse of how it looks.







In reality the photo's are far better than may appear on this post, and it's nice to have a record outside of a computer to look back on a build.
 
Regards,
 
B.E.
 
 

The casing of Pegasus took place yesterday, one of the most stressful operations since constructing the Headworks.
Slipping the cover over Pegasus with only a few mm clearance each side of the Main Studding Booms ends and Jib boom was scary to say the least.
 
Still all done now, and here she is in her designated place.





 
Moving on now, to what not quite decided.
 
B.E.
 

For those who may be vaguely curious about the face behind the model, here's yours truly posing with Pegasus before she is cased.

 
B.E.
 

Thanks once again Guys, there will be one more photo - when she is encased and placed in the spot reserved for her.
In the meantime I am using the huge collection of photo's amassed over the past seven years to put together a large format 120 page photo book record of the build.
 
Regards,
 
B.E.

Very nice detailing Don  
 
B.E.

Impressive result with your ships wheel Don, beautifully executed.  
 
B.E.

Amazing the difference a coat of varnish makes, nice looking hull
 
B.E.

I agree with the consensus Don, once the hull is sanded and sealed I don't think you will need a paint pot.
 
B.E.

That's an interesting model subject Don, and nice formation of the hull lines, look forward to seeing more progress.
 
ps: Looks like you have some serious wood turning kit there
 
Cheers,
 
B.E.

Ray what are you doing, I presume you are getting some satisfaction, or why do it, but I find it hard to imagine what image you're seeing from the fruits of your labour.
I have to tell you that this is not wooden ship modelling as would be recognised on even the most generous of assessments.
If you have a genuine interest in the subject I think you need to start with the basics of planking a model, and there is a tutorial for beginners on MSW.
here's the link.
http://modelshipworldforum.com/resources/Framing_and_Planking/plankingprojectbeginners.pdf
if you can grasp the principles of fairing a hull before planking, and tapering planks to better fit the hull, you will be on the road to making a half decent model, and hopefully gain far more satisfaction.
Members are very generous with help on the forums, but they need to see that an effort is being made to understand how to construct a wooden kit model.
I'm sorry if this sounds harsh, but you're going nowhere in the hobby with your current approach, and I suspect many members are at a loss to comment on your log.
My advice would be to get a simple beginner kit to hone your skills on, using the tutorial above.
B.E.

Michael I will message the Lees info to you tomorrow.
 
B.E.
 

Lovely! A work for a shipmodelling lecture!
 
Christos

For those who may be vaguely curious about the face behind the model, here's yours truly posing with Pegasus before she is cased.

 
B.E.
 

With the fairing completed the stern transom is added.

7026
This has very little to hold it securely at least until the first strakes are added, so I also drilled and pinned it to the false keel.
Even so very soft hands are required to fair the transom piece.
As a trial  I am using 0.6mm thick Boxwood strip, slightly thinner than the provided Limewood.

7033
The sheer strake is applied full width.
PVA is used to bond the strip to the b/heads, secured with an assortment of clamps.

7032

7051
 Water and heat are used to bend the strip both laterally to follow the rise of the sheer, and to curve around the bow.

7053

7058

7055
The foremost Bulkhead K  rises above the sheer line.

7060
The Sheerline strake extends beyond the transom.
When I made the mini version for Pegasus I omitted the second decorative transom piece, still not sure what practical purpose, if any, this addition served, but as they were a feature of the 18th Century Pinnace, I will include it on this build.
 
Once the glue has hardened overnight I will add the next strake, and then make a decision whether to continue with the Boxwood, or remove and revert to the Limewood.

7038
C'mon ain't you spent enough time on that today.
 
B.E.

With the fairing completed the stern transom is added.

7026
This has very little to hold it securely at least until the first strakes are added, so I also drilled and pinned it to the false keel.
Even so very soft hands are required to fair the transom piece.
As a trial  I am using 0.6mm thick Boxwood strip, slightly thinner than the provided Limewood.

7033
The sheer strake is applied full width.
PVA is used to bond the strip to the b/heads, secured with an assortment of clamps.

7032

7051
 Water and heat are used to bend the strip both laterally to follow the rise of the sheer, and to curve around the bow.

7053

7058

7055
The foremost Bulkhead K  rises above the sheer line.

7060
The Sheerline strake extends beyond the transom.
When I made the mini version for Pegasus I omitted the second decorative transom piece, still not sure what practical purpose, if any, this addition served, but as they were a feature of the 18th Century Pinnace, I will include it on this build.
 
Once the glue has hardened overnight I will add the next strake, and then make a decision whether to continue with the Boxwood, or remove and revert to the Limewood.

7038
C'mon ain't you spent enough time on that today.
 
B.E.

As I mentioned in an earlier post,  I have used some of my post build time to create a Photo Album of my build utilising some of the many photo's taken over the course of the build.
The album is large format (28 x 21cm) and runs to 120 pages.
The book has now arrived and I thought you may like to see how it worked out.
The book was designed and created from software downloaded from Vistaprint.  who then produced the Album.
Here's are a few pages to give you a glimpse of how it looks.







In reality the photo's are far better than may appear on this post, and it's nice to have a record outside of a computer to look back on a build.
 
Regards,
 
B.E.
 
 

For those who may be vaguely curious about the face behind the model, here's yours truly posing with Pegasus before she is cased.

 
B.E.
 

With the fairing completed the stern transom is added.

7026
This has very little to hold it securely at least until the first strakes are added, so I also drilled and pinned it to the false keel.
Even so very soft hands are required to fair the transom piece.
As a trial  I am using 0.6mm thick Boxwood strip, slightly thinner than the provided Limewood.

7033
The sheer strake is applied full width.
PVA is used to bond the strip to the b/heads, secured with an assortment of clamps.

7032

7051
 Water and heat are used to bend the strip both laterally to follow the rise of the sheer, and to curve around the bow.

7053

7058

7055
The foremost Bulkhead K  rises above the sheer line.

7060
The Sheerline strake extends beyond the transom.
When I made the mini version for Pegasus I omitted the second decorative transom piece, still not sure what practical purpose, if any, this addition served, but as they were a feature of the 18th Century Pinnace, I will include it on this build.
 
Once the glue has hardened overnight I will add the next strake, and then make a decision whether to continue with the Boxwood, or remove and revert to the Limewood.

7038
C'mon ain't you spent enough time on that today.
 
B.E.

With the fairing completed the stern transom is added.

7026
This has very little to hold it securely at least until the first strakes are added, so I also drilled and pinned it to the false keel.
Even so very soft hands are required to fair the transom piece.
As a trial  I am using 0.6mm thick Boxwood strip, slightly thinner than the provided Limewood.

7033
The sheer strake is applied full width.
PVA is used to bond the strip to the b/heads, secured with an assortment of clamps.

7032

7051
 Water and heat are used to bend the strip both laterally to follow the rise of the sheer, and to curve around the bow.

7053

7058

7055
The foremost Bulkhead K  rises above the sheer line.

7060
The Sheerline strake extends beyond the transom.
When I made the mini version for Pegasus I omitted the second decorative transom piece, still not sure what practical purpose, if any, this addition served, but as they were a feature of the 18th Century Pinnace, I will include it on this build.
 
Once the glue has hardened overnight I will add the next strake, and then make a decision whether to continue with the Boxwood, or remove and revert to the Limewood.

7038
C'mon ain't you spent enough time on that today.
 
B.E.