Marcus.K.

Ladies, Sirs, mates and pals, I need your advice. I just found something strange in John Lords Section Cut drawing 35208 where he is showing his research results from Humphrey-Papers concering Old Ironsides original layout. I guess it is to be viewed with a certain .. "sceptsism" since Lord did not have Internet or fellow forum colleauges to get advice from. And: it may be a drawing of a set of drawings- in which here missing information may be shown. What I for example noticed as missing information here: Lord refered to the demand of white oak planks 6 feet from the side for the Gun Deck - but did not advice the 5 feed white oak on upper deck - which Humphrey clearly did. But my question for you experts: do you know any evindence for a raised mid section of the decks - in between the hatches - as Lord is showing here? This "white oak" which seem to run in between the hatches - and having a visible step vs. the white oak planks (interlocked?) "beside the hatches" ). It seems to be 6" while that "third straks" along the hatch seems to be described as 5 1/2" - but lowered into the beams.. and the yellow pine planks have a thickness of about 3 1/2" .. making that step 2 1/2" thick. That´s more than 6 cm ! I would think that stronger planks along the mid of a ships deck would help to increase stiffness in general - if there weren´t those hatches, which do "cut" the strengthening feature along the ships lengthwise axis. We know that Humphreys designed "interlocked thick strakes" .. and Lord shows them - one on Gun Deck and at least one in Berthdeck. There are white oak strakes along the hatches - which could be interlocked strakes too - but that is not shown explicitly in the drawing. Source of this section cut: Alexander Mahoun´s "USS Constitution and other historic ships" - but also being part of John Lords 1926-31 restauration plans. But again my main question: are there any other sources or evidence for a step on decks in that mid section - in the area of hatches? Isn´t that an obstacle for the crew - if you have to move a gun from one to the other side - if you have to run across the decks? Or is this just was Lord was thinking it should be? What do you think? And .. since you are looking: what does he show here in the center of the ship in Berth deck level: that "thick stuff" 6" ?? 10"? .. is this a 6" x 10"? What would that be? There is a dotted line - but what would that be??

Hmmmmm ... 🤔😉 Looking forward to your next one ... 🫡

Well yes, it does! And not really only for a first try! Concerning the length of that breaching lines. They do look very long. But of course compared with what? Compared with our expectation coming from 100 and 1000 of pictures, fotos and illustrations in books, blogs, and more. Very rarely from real ships and never from a ship in real action. So is our expectation then realistic? I would do the following: do a try on the model: look how far the gun would be able to run back without risking a collision with other deck features. Look for the most critical gun ... or do it for each pair, either to find a standard for the specific ship or assuming that each breaching was done individually for each gun (pair) to use the maximum space. We know that there are cases in which the gunners had to reach out of the hull, to work on the muzzles. But of course the more they managed to bring the muzzle inside, the more safe and - more important - the quicker they would reload the gun. So it is valid to expect, that the length was optimized to a maximum while still avoiding collision and damage. Keep room for the gun crew not to be squeezed in between two guns in the center of the deck 😉. In any way: it looks phantastic!!

"Computers are made to help us in problems we would not have without them!" I hate to be forced to change my way of working (which was really on very professionell level with the "non-cloud" office) every time MS is reworking their product. What they call "intuitive" is a nightmare for me, since my "intuition" forces me to follow the way I had learned before... Why can't they offer an option like "all functions and menues as in previously used configuration". Well, they don't do that... even if they could... Good luck with the new cloud based version...

I was again looking into this. The "thing" in the left field may be a "Celtic Harp" instead of a shield as the harp was used in heraldic systems for example in british and in celtic symbols. Behind it, left side, there may be visible the bow of a crossbow? On the right field there seem to be the end piece of a brass instrument behind that shield, right? In the center field I think it is either a shield (backside and not upright but 90° rotated to the left) behind that helmet? The top side of the shield (now left side) seems clear to me, but the bottom side (here right of that helmet) seem to be rounded, not with a tip. We look into the backside of the shield, therefore the plain yellow and just shadows indicating the hollow shape of that shield. That grey "bow" left of the helmets sholderpiece may be one of the shields handles. There seem to be more weapons or floral twigs or sprigs behind and around the arrangement. And yes: a lance behind and crossing diagonal.. . Right field: maybe that huge tip in the round shield is'nt meant to be that big. I think it's outer end color matches with the more greenish weapons behind the yellowish shield. Maybe what looks like the outmost tip is in fact one end of a club or other weapon or instrument and they are just accidently that close? Or: since that brass instruments bell matches that color of what we believieved to see as a round shield.. it is in fact a french horn or a tuba.. and something Stick through its center.. or is the mouth piece?? But this thing is really hard to interpret!! Anyway: fun! And interesting if you start digging in those symbolic elements... I learned about helmets, heraldic, harps...

I would guess that all three fields show a certain shield and behind different weapons. The left one being a shield as knights would have used. Classical heraldic shape, not symetrical and with that cutout for the knights left leg on his horse (strange - he must be lefthanded??) . The right one being a round somehow ottoman shield (?) with a sharp tip in its center.. The center one is strange in its shape.. but would be reasonable if my interpretation of the surrounding weapons is right. But it is guessing... No!! .. the center one is a knights "tilting helmet" with bushes on top in front of a huge shield or a coat in front of weapons!! I will check for good pictures for what I believe to see... Here a picture for a tilting helmet ... http://bridges.rem33.com/books/vonValborth_A2a_files/image020.jpg Its the left side middle one I think I can see in the center one of Alerts paintings.. Found it here: http://bridges.rem33.com/books/vonValborth_A2a.htm

Beautiful and fun! Maybe that Video is interesting for you?

Gentlemen, no matter WHEN that "welcome matt" may have been added: I believe, you see it litterally from the wrong side 😁. Imagine the Admiral wants to leave and that spot in front of that opening is wet due to the opening.. wet and slippery! Imagine he would slip and falls down? "Man over Board!" 's the call!! So better to have the chance for wind and air to dry this spot where he places his foot onto (that grating) while water may be on the deck in front of the waterway... He would not slip on that ... his shoes would step on something more dry with more grib.. Its not an entry port grate, it is an EXIT port grate.🤣

Hello Stuart, your stove is perfect! I just recently found drawings of those brodie stoves - and you did a really good job. And your windows in the stern are the very best adaption I ever saw on that Revel-model. Was thinking about doing a comparable approach - but I wanted first to do some "replicas" with a silicon mold (first attempts were not really successful) since I would like to rework the decoratoin too ... I do not dare to do that with the only part I have right now. I was thinking about widening to upper or the lower end of the windows - but your result (doing on both sides) generates a very pleasing appearance! It fits perfect that way! I think the Revel stern is an excellent representation of the 1812 appearance - as many others I just doubt that 4-patterend windows in the Hull-Model. But since they seem to be done in a comparable poor quality - and even in a strange way "added" into that stern, I tend to believe they have not been done by the same person doing so many things with so much care. Compare to the gallery windows .. So I guess that 4-pane-windows have been a "compromise" - as Olof Eriksen is interpreting: maybe done in a hurry before Hull left the ship and crew.. By the way: the Hull model stern windows are not squared as the Smithonian- and the Revell-model ones .. What you did here with those windows is an excellent adaption of the Corné paintings and as I think - the most likely appearance of 1812. VERY COOL - Looking forward to see it colored. Hope you are doing fine and looking forward seeing more inspirational results from your beautiful build.

I agree: its a Revell kit. Nice to see that again. I did even forget I once did build it.. oh how long ago! Where has it gone by now? Thanks for the reminder!

Hello Wefalck, this tiny work is fascinating! I can not imagine how you can do things like that! A proposal for the foots plates of those stanchions which you wished to be not that prominent: I noticed on the real ship´s photo: for me it seems, the foot itself was painted in the colour of the deck - dark gray. If you´d do the same, you would take away the "optical weight" of those foots. But maybe you do a test on a sample first - because it looks already so excellent.. and I would not dare to try to optimize and then mess it up! Wonderful work!!

That´s a very interesting build ! I am looking forward seeing more 🙂 ! I very much like your carpet - and the deck beams look very cool. To move the gunports is daring - your approach very interesting. I need to dig into that. Would the gun ports have been moved? Humphrey specified their position as far as I remember in his layout 1794.. Did you compare with Humphrey-Doughty Plan? I will investigate in that too. Looking forward in further progress 🙂 Happy Eastern to everyone!

I know THAT experience! 🤣

I love to read frequently your posts, @Force9 .. what´s your beauty doing? And even more important: how are you doing? Hope all sails are up and flying?? Concerning your conclusion from data: "The data suggests that each gun shot @10 times in 30 minutes. " wouldn´t in a single ship combat the 10 shot´s per gun and 30 min. mean that they shot in fact 20 times per 30 min?.. or maybe double shots for short range maximized damage? .. ... since there would not be any sense in using both sides the same time - but sequentially?

I love to read frequently your posts, @Force9 .. what´s your beauty doing? And even more important: how are you doing? Hope all sails are up and flying?? Concerning your conclusion from data: "The data suggests that each gun shot @10 times in 30 minutes. " wouldn´t in a single ship combat the 10 shot´s per gun and 30 min. mean that they shot in fact 20 times per 30 min?.. or maybe double shots for short range maximized damage? .. ... since there would not be any sense in using both sides the same time - but sequentially?

I love to read frequently your posts, @Force9 .. what´s your beauty doing? And even more important: how are you doing? Hope all sails are up and flying?? Concerning your conclusion from data: "The data suggests that each gun shot @10 times in 30 minutes. " wouldn´t in a single ship combat the 10 shot´s per gun and 30 min. mean that they shot in fact 20 times per 30 min?.. or maybe double shots for short range maximized damage? .. ... since there would not be any sense in using both sides the same time - but sequentially?

I love to read frequently your posts, @Force9 .. what´s your beauty doing? And even more important: how are you doing? Hope all sails are up and flying?? Concerning your conclusion from data: "The data suggests that each gun shot @10 times in 30 minutes. " wouldn´t in a single ship combat the 10 shot´s per gun and 30 min. mean that they shot in fact 20 times per 30 min?.. or maybe double shots for short range maximized damage? .. ... since there would not be any sense in using both sides the same time - but sequentially?

I love to read frequently your posts, @Force9 .. what´s your beauty doing? And even more important: how are you doing? Hope all sails are up and flying?? Concerning your conclusion from data: "The data suggests that each gun shot @10 times in 30 minutes. " wouldn´t in a single ship combat the 10 shot´s per gun and 30 min. mean that they shot in fact 20 times per 30 min?.. or maybe double shots for short range maximized damage? .. ... since there would not be any sense in using both sides the same time - but sequentially?

I love to read frequently your posts, @Force9 .. what´s your beauty doing? And even more important: how are you doing? Hope all sails are up and flying?? Concerning your conclusion from data: "The data suggests that each gun shot @10 times in 30 minutes. " wouldn´t in a single ship combat the 10 shot´s per gun and 30 min. mean that they shot in fact 20 times per 30 min?.. or maybe double shots for short range maximized damage? .. ... since there would not be any sense in using both sides the same time - but sequentially?

Next are gratings and the "floor" And then the rails.. left and right side: Followed by the benches (in top you see the frame which helps to position the supporting pillow vs. the keel) Result: The final Hull - after "paint" with my "blackened" casein glue (I did not have other paint with me in that vacation. Missing now: the oars, the rudder, masts and other details. .. But that was now delayed due to the "snowwhite sleep" up to today.. The russian beauty awaits a prince to kiss her back to life ... Hope you like her appearance .. Its my very first effort with the material "wood" ... but the quality of that kit is good enough to prevent me from getting major issues. If you want to start with wood, these kits would be a very good starter! Not much tooling, but you begin to learn how to work with wetted planks, etc. . .

Frank, dear Viewers, I have to appologize, life rolled over my in a way ... so many things happeing. The russian beauty progressed of course - but after finsihing the hull it fell in a .. in German we say - "snowwhite sleep".. do you have a comparable expression? What has happened so far: Removed the frames along the lasered "predetermende breaking points" .. resulting in a nice hull with 1/2 of the framing: The next step is inserting the wetted and "softened" second half of the ribs: And this is then the result after cutting the ends.

Impressive!!! THANKS for SHARING this wonderful findings in this way!

Hello Ben, thanks for you comment. Your Viking ship had the same scale - and it´s a beauty! Thanks for watching - and thanks for the thumbs to everone! The kit is fun and I like it a lot. You will see... The very next thing to do is to add the first frame - on in this case better "rib" They need wetting - a procedure I never did before and I was suprised how soft the wood would become. Really amazing. Here you can see the first three ribs - I started in the center, since their radius is the widest and bending would not have that much risk. I have to say: Falkonet did a great job with the kit. There are almost double the number of ribs the kit needs. That may give beginners a chance to test and play and destroy some of them. My wetting was a success from the start. I used to work with paper models, in which you can pre-shape a bit flat paper into something 3D with soft pressure. That experience may have been a help. And I learned meanwhile that drying often causes issues if the wood then is shrinking. For example while doing the planking. The shrinking then may lead to "straight" segments between the frames where the wet plank fitted perfect before. In this case there wasn´t such problem since the ribs sits on top of that "construction"-frame. This photo shows the foremost ribs - and since they sit in an angle vs. the longitudinal direction the ribs are split in half and also have those triangle "flag" at their bottom end - which helps a) to find the correct angle and b) generate a support for the later planking. They "fill" the step on the very first parts - those filling pieces at the bow. Of course it is important to not insert the first of the 2 ribs too deep into that slot, so that the second rib from the other side still has room in that slot in the keel. The last rib - one piece again - which has to be placed into that framing. Even that kink (is that the correct word?) in the keel slot was simple to generate. The wood did not break there as I expected. So I did not need any of the spare ribs up to now ("spare ribs" - a new meaning for a common word 😁). The result seems to please - at least to my eye Next step is planking - starting with that beatiful laser-ornamented upper plank - above that side-stabilizing strip you see in the picure above:W You see on top of that picture the plate with all planks - and the very right one is seperated (3 cuts usually are needed) and glued to the framing. You may see it at its rear end under the rubber band - and in the front forced in place by the clothespin - glued to that filling piece on the stem. In this picture you see a bit more of the rear end, its ornament and also the other sides plank still in that board. Then flollows that planking process, in which - due to my habit to start from front end (most tricky alignment of the bow end of each plank into that "curve" which - in real ships would be shaped by a rabbit - while the rear end is just longer than the boat and will be cut later on. Also I use to glue first one side - and until the glue is fixed sufficiently I work on the other sides plank. By that the process is faster and I have a symetrical approach ot avoid unsymetrical load and distortion in the hull. All this generates this nice "trilobitic"-like appearance. And at the end, the planking is ready: The planks I needed wetting only in the bow area and the lower ones also in the rear a bit - for that needed distortion to align with the stern. The midsection did not need wetting. Since this is my very first wooden carvel-planking I had to learn some things (the real purpose of this build!). I did for example miss to press the planks harder together to each other. As a result some of the gaps are really wide and you can even look through. I would not want to be in need of a boat like this - it probably would sink really quick! Another effect I did not work hard enough against is that the planks sometimes do not align good enough with the contour of the frames. That effect is even more obvious due to the fact that I did not sand the lasered (and dark) sides of each plank). So if you look at the next picture you may notice some "clinker-like" steps. A problem which I could work on by sanding the hull and getting the surfaces more uniformly. Although I have to admit: there is one plank which got thin as paper by this process and I was close to have the plank rasped away! Also you see the rear side - on which I have to shorten the planks. But after filing and sanding the hull is in pretty good shape: The curve of the planks front is not as bad as it cold be - and I am happy that I had those pre-shaped planks in that kit. I can only imagine how hard it must be to use straight planks to try to fit such a complex shape of a water going vessel. You would not only need to bend over the planks "thickness", but also to bend "upright" .. do you know what I mean? But that is a load for that plank which would make it real hard to avoid breaking I guess. And then you in addition need to shape the front edge of the plank to fit to that stem. Here in that kit everything is prepared and its just a matter of how precise you glue it into position. Almost like a 3D puzzle. The rear - with cutted and sanded planks.. of course not yet ready. Now the preperation of seperation of hull and the "slide" has to be done - first: cutting the ribs: The ribs are glued into the keel and at the top edge of the frames in this picture. To be able to move out the slide they need a cut. Also the very first front frames (which had been glued to not get lost) have to be cutted - while all the parallel frames are not glued. Then a careful seperation must be done.. fore and back, up and down again - to generate more game in the joints and find a smooth way outl. Starting ... A bit of air already ... And done! The next step is kind of tricky. Since I did - against the instructions adivce (since I did NOT read it in time!!) - I glude the frames not only in keel level but also vs. those fixation stripes, I now have to face the fact that I need to seperate them without damage at those stripes! A tricky surgery.... .. will I succeed? ..... will that russian beauty survive? stay tuned and turn on again next time ...

Ahoy there! What´s up, doc? Vacation with my family. My kids all in the age of puperty used to sleep until the first half of MY day is wasted. So I decided to make use of this quiet time and take a kit with me: the Falkonet 6-oared boat. Its a very nice kit and due to recent experience with a Shipyard Alert with klinkered hull I dared to try this one. My working place was like this: Southern France, Atlantik Coast (Biskaya), you could hear the sea crashing into the beaches (a surfer-paradise nothern Biarritz and Capbreton) - a cool breeze even when the sun burned hot. The start was more tricky than I expected. The plan showed this: But the part A14R uand A14L was available 2 times each!!??? And my russian is not good enought to understand the text. And even the sketch confused me, since the direction of the milling seems not plausible!? It was clear: those two filling pieces support the connection of stem post and keel - and also provide gluing surface for the planking in the bow area. But .. why then a step there? .. and why two pairs of them in the set? An Englisch Pool-technician (thanks Willliam!) gave me the hint: use your smartphones google-browser to translate. You can even translate graphics via hte smartphones camera!!! .. and you can "share" and save that picture: Ups.. sorry, now this translation is in German - which fits well for me.. But although its just a google translation its getting clearer than cyrillic russian texts for me. But still it left me with the question: why in heaven are the two sets of this filling pieces - and even on different thick sheets? I decided to ignore this question and just start with the thicker ones! Milled them in shape according to the lines (ignoring the misunderstandable sketch in the plan - et voila! The filling pieces in place beside the division line of keel and stem post. Aligned so the slot beneth it would not be covered by the step of the filling pieces. Next step is preparing the slade (correct wording?): These where the first parts I needed to file a a bit so that the tongues fitted into the openings. But in general there is not much rework to be done in this laser cut set. Just sanding the cutting area.. and maybe getting rid of the burned edge if you don´t like the dark appearance (which I did not do). Then the frames had to be set loosly into the slade. Only the 4 front ones were allowed to glue together to each other so they don´t get lost. Added the Keel (onto which I already glued the transom and the rear bulkhead) .. Those two rails had to be added too .. And the small kit slowly became looking like a boat ...