LFrankCPA
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I'm wondering how other molders store their fine saws. I must had a dozen or more in two different categories. One for regular cuts and the other for metal or harder woods. I want a way to store them so they will be readily available yet not so lose as to damage the blades. There must be a way. I'm sure you have the answer. Thanks in advance for your help. Larry Sorry, I left out the "hand" part of this....hand saws.....I must be getting old(er)....
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I use veneer all the time. It's incredible inexpensive on eBay. I have a dozen or more "end band" roles; just cut it to shape with a pair of sizzers and glue with regular PVA wood glue (not to much). It comes in various widths, everything from Alder to Ebony; less than $10.00 a roll. Mock up your build with any wood; cut the veneer to the size for your scale and apply proud of what is needed. Then cut off with razor saw or sharp knife. Hope this helps. Larry
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As many of us go through our build, we plan on planking a portion of the hull or decking and leaving some open area so as to see inside the ship. Would you be kind enough to share with me, and the group, your philosophy or thoughts as you go through this process? For instance, I have a thing for the anchor works, and would like to show off that; where as I'm not as concerned with the Captian's cabin. I look forward towards your thoughts on this subject of what to leave in and what to leave out....... Thanks, Larry
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Mark, I built my transom out of some really hard wood. I spent all day filing the curved top to shape. Took a break and came back to put it in the vise to work the sides. I tightened it so tight in the vise that I straightened out the curve. I have enjoyed following your build. Good luck, Larry
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Let's talk 3D printers.
LFrankCPA replied to Keith_W's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
It's interesting that I should discover this thread now. I just spent yesterday researching 3-D printers. The Dremel people have come out with a model for about $1,000; also an outfit called XYZ Printing, has a new model which includes 3-D scanning and printing; not out just yet, but street price is about $800. That's the one I am interested in. I did an interned search on filaments (the material to print with) and found; cherry wood, generic wood, brass and bronze, apparently all for normal 3-D printers. For just a little more you can get a printer with two nozzles. You could print windows with clear plastic glass and a wooden frame...at the same time. There seems to be a large quantity of 'open source' software available on line for free...... I just purchased a big screen HDTV, so when my budget recovers, I'm going to get one. Check out Amazon for reviews and purchaser documents. Hope this helps Larry -
I believe Anigre is also called Longhi. I have used a bit of it for interior planking; ceiling. I really like it, I can usually plane it in both directions and I like the soft yellow color. I intend to use it for the upper works, in place of Boxwood or Yellowheart. Sorry, I've never heard of the other wood. Hope this helps some. Larry
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Thanks for the replies Allan and Gary. I think the Hahn method is debated here constantly. I would rather just call it the Hahn Method. I will be glad to just get the frames in. This is the second time I have attempted this. The first time I guess I simply did not give enough attention to that; as my build progressed, things only got worse. I know better now and will do better. Thanks again for your troubles. Larry
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I knew I had read about this somewhere and I finally found it. Goodwin; Man of War; page 22; "All the frames forward of the dead=flat were set so that the floors formed the fore face of the complete or main frame, whereas those aft of the dead=flat had their floors aft." So am I correct in that all the floors faced "away" from the dead-flat??? or did all the floors face "away" from the bow???? Can I get more than just one reply; or am I doing something wrong when posting on this site???? Thanks, Larry
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I'm sorry, you are right, I should have included a few more items of description. I am modeling HMS Alfred at 3/16", 1780 era; sister frames Huhan (sic) method. Hope this help a little more. Larry
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I am in the process of constructing the frames for my model and I need a little clarification, please. In regard to the frames; the floor is on the 'back side' of the frame and the 1st futtock is on the 'front side' of the frame??????? In regard to the placement of frames on the keel: does the floor face toward or away from the 'dead flat'???? Thanks, in advance, to all. Larry
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I model in 3/16" to the foot and use built up spars. I create a center spindle and attach additional strips of wood around the spindle, with the grain running in the opposite direction. This is supposed to forestall warping. For my current build, I am using "yellowheart" and "ebony". But, by using this method, I have been told you could use just about any wood you wanted too. Hope this helps some. Larry
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I have some basswood/limewood leftover for my kit days. Believe it or not, some of what I have has a really nice color grain to it. It would make a really nice looking deck; but the wood is too soft. I know it will not pass the thumb nail test. but I was wondering if any one has tried to make the surface harder. Maybe like several coats of varnish??? Or even diluted white glue?? Any one?? Thanks, Larry
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I cut all my planks by hand from sheet wood. I have an assorted set of brass squares and use these for marking the plank width while held in a vise. I mark the width of the plank slightly oversize and cut it from the sheet, full length. Then I cross cut the plank to slightly longer than the finished size and plane it to final width. Place, mark to final length, glue and done. You get used to it. I can do several dozen in an evening. Larry
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I'm using Ebony on my ship instead of black paint. Can anyone offer suggestions as to how to finish Ebony wood???? BTW, I aware of the health problems associated with Ebony. Thanks, Larry
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My biggest concern was that I might be doing something wrong by varnishing the spars; from a woodworking stand point. I guess to each his own and I can varnish without breaking some obscure reason (like the spar warping)...... About the french polishing....maybe that should have been a question. I have no idea what it is.... Thanks too all. Larry
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I have been reading through Underhill's Masting and Rigging; on page 70, he makes the following comment: "Another point, models of timber spars should never be varnished, but very lightly french polished, just enough to give them the appearance of having been oiled." I have been under the impression that most everything was varnished on the model ship. Can anyone comment on this please?? Larry
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I hope I am not coming into the conversation too late. What I do is to apply the PVA glue with my finger and actually rub it into the wood. It seems to fill all the little nicks and crannies; hold for a few minutes then clamp it overnight. Spread the glue with your finger to the outer edge of one piece then add and hold the other. Works for me.... Larry
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Hanging Magazine
LFrankCPA replied to LFrankCPA's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Allan, Unfortunately I do not currently have the means to take pics of my build. I wish I did, so I could start my own build log. I would like to show you all what I am doing. I am severely disabled, my legs were amputated 3 -4 years ago and mobility is an issue with me. I have to do all my shopping on line, but I am working towards being able to do that. However, Gary has several on page 6 of his build log. I am referring to the magazine proper, not the light room. Yes there is an ark type symbol there also. After several years of pre=engineering one would think I would know what that ark thing is; I have no idea....The fore and aft bulkheads extend from below the Orlop deck to the Gun deck. However, the magazine deckhead appears to stop somewhere in between.. (Goodwin, pp 125, fig 4/8). I don't remember where I got the number of shot at 80> Are you satisfied with the number you obtained or do you wish me to justify my number???? Thanks to all, Larry -
The 74 that I am modeling has a hanging magazine. The magazine proper, as you know. hangs below the O deck and extends three or four feet on top of the O deck. However, the bulkhead extends to the underside of the Gun deck. What is this area used for??? The most logical answer would be for powder kegs. But I don't remember having read that anywhere. Can anyone help me out here, please??? Also, as an aside; if there are 74 guns on the ship, with about 80 rounds each, I can't not understand how they would all fit in the shot lockers. What am I missing??? Thanks guys, Larry
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Ever had to chisel some small something. Put one of the school red erasers between the project and your hand. Works great. Larry
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So I think I will put grating for planking on the carpenters walk, next to ship side, out about 4 feet, put a vertical grating for the bulkhead, from stem to stern in the walk. Put in authorship battens/beams on the cable deck tier proper, about 4' tall. Then make a thousand feet of cable...... Thanks for your help Gary. I'll keep an eye or two on your build, they work just fine.. Larry
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Thanks for the quick reply Gary. My legs were amputated a couple of three years ago, so getting around for me is difficult. I must spend a third of my time positioning my wheel chair, only to find out the tool I need is "over there". I am also restricted to hand tools only. I would love to share my build with the community but I don't think I can at this time. I guess I was expecting more on the Orlop deck, I understand now about the vertical grating described by Goodwin and pictured on page 112. I appears that the vertical grating formed the inbound bulkhead of the carptners walk fore and aft and maybe in the cable tier. Longridge has a clearer picture of this at plates 13 and 16. I guess I somehow got it in my head that the cable tier proper would have been grated; as one of its purposes was to allow the cables to drain. Goodwin also shows 'cable tier beams' at fig 4.3 bottom. That I do not understand as it is counterintuitive to the construction of the rest of the deck, being flush with the beam heads. The engineering on these ships is just unbelievable. Thanks, Gary Larry
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Hi Gary, I'm building Alfred also, Haun's plans from Dave at 3/16" to the foot. I was starting to build the pump well, which lead to the Orlop beams, which lead to the Cable Tier......I have most of the books, but could not find the answer to my question. So, after exhausting all my reference material, I headed to your build log. Because of your pictures I understand about the vertical grating. However, the gratings that would be the deck planking still has me confused. If you had planked this area on your Alfred, how would you have done it????? I'm so glad you were able to repost your build log; I reference it frequently. Thanks, Larry
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Dark Colored Glue
LFrankCPA replied to Kenneth Powell's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
Thanks Jud... Now can we be modler friends....I would like that Thanks, Larry -
Please don't be too concerned; you will work it out.. Larry
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