LFrankCPA
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Dark Colored Glue
LFrankCPA replied to Kenneth Powell's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
My origional comments were dealing with planking on a deck; not the hull. However, on any non=flat surface the sides of the plank would be beveled to the ajoining pland so that the join is purpendicular at the point of the join; like during frame construction. Otherwise, I still not following and have no interest except for deck planking and exploring a new method of doing that. -
How about a couple of scuppers???? Drain holes on the out bound deck plank or waterway???? Larry
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Dark Colored Glue
LFrankCPA replied to Kenneth Powell's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
Jud.. I have over 30 years experience building model ships...... What would you like to know??? Larry -
Dark Colored Glue
LFrankCPA replied to Kenneth Powell's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
Jud, What I had in mind was to put a slight bevel on the outbound sides of the plank, maybe 1/4 the thickness of the plank. Lay the pland as you would any other, add a couple of coats of varnish to seal the plank, then flood with the dark glue. Scrape to surface. I see it as planking like any other.. Am I missing something..... Thanks," Larry -
I watched the movie Captan and Commander (that does not sound right) the one with Russel Crow. Actually watched it seceral times and commented about how real the ship was. That's were I got the thought about the wick hole.... Larry
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Dark Colored Glue
LFrankCPA replied to Kenneth Powell's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
Hi Cap, I am not familuar witht he clue you mentioned. But the III goes on a light tan and drys a little darker. I noticed when making up the frames, when it puddles is can be real dark. I have read adverrtisements for dark CA glue, but don't remember where...you could Google it. Larry -
Dark Colored Glue
LFrankCPA replied to Kenneth Powell's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
I use Titebond II Dark Wood Glue, for just about any wooden parts. It has a great tack, will hold under fingure presure and sets up in a few minutes, allowing little time for adjustments and perminate clamping. In regard to deck planking; I have been considering beveling the plank sides to say 45 degrees and attaching to the deck, covering with a couple of coats of varnish, then spreading out this glue to dry in the bevels, then scraping to final shape. I have not tried this yet, but I cut my own planking by hand and to scrape a bevel would not be that much more trouble. Good luck Larry -
I too have found Walnut difficult to work. However, I have discovered that if you sand or file it with a medium grade something it works very well. Something else in a dark wood is African Blackwood. Can be as dark as Ebony, but not quite as difficult to work/ Larry
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Thanks Nigel and yes, that is what I wanted to know. Larry
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Just a few odd comments: I take offence to the use of the 'sloppy'. In the heat of battle things happen, they did the best they could. As for the heat radiating outward: I could not begin to tell you the number of times I have 'smoked the stock' of my M14. Most military rifles have some type of protection on the upper barrel so you will not get burned. After a firefight you do not want to grab the barrel. Keep in mind that the same force of discharge comming out the barrel of the cannon, came out the lighting hole at the head. Was there in type of protection on the timbers above the cannon for this effect???? Larry
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I have this little guy shown above. With that saw, I can take a pen blank, mark it to thickness with a brass square, and cut it in about a dozen or so strokes. With a little scraping or planing, I have a great plank.
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I guess I did not make myself clear. I'm aware of the Establishments concerning planking and such. What I want to know is the proper placement of treeaniles on a plank. I am under the impression that the upper treenail is placed away from the dead flat. Can anyone confirm this for me?thanks to all. Larry
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I use a simular method, but cut with a flush cut saw....
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I've searched and can not find the answer. Could anyone help please? I know there are general rules for placement of many of the parts of the ship; ie floor timbers face away from the deadflat. Is there any rules for the placement of treenails???? In all the pictures of such, one treenail is in the upper right portion of the plank and the other in the lower left. However, how does this position relate to; the bow, stern, deadflat???? I'm sure there must be some common method of placement. Thanks guys, Larry
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Well, you know what they say; "There is a tool for every need and a need for every tool". I also am a 'toolaholic'. But the work is so much more efficient when you can just pull out the specific tool you need.....part of the fun I think.....
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I have found that, at the large scales I work with, it's better to purchase some larger hand tools; not specifically for hobby use. I found that hobby tools are used with the wrist; the others are used with the elbow and sholder. Try going a little larger with the saws, it will not effect the quality of the cut.
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As mentioned above, I have 3 of these saws; one I phased from Lowes for around $10.00 in the store; the others I purchased on sale from Harbor Freight for about $12.00 each. I would recommend to everyone that you explore on-line shopping. For me it has been very convient as I am house bound. I have been doing so for over 10 years with no problems what so ever.
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I intend to make up the masts with this wood. Go to ebay and find what you need.
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I am a 'no 3p' molder; that is, no power, no paint, and no sandPaper. I ran into a sale on ebay and purchased several hundred pen blanks and turning squares, about 35 different types of wood. If I need a specific color, I just find the right wood and slice of pieces for my need. Of course Dave supplies the timbering wood.
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I am unable to use power tools, but I have several of these saws. I have 2 larger ones, one Japanesse, very thin cuts; and another USA made with a thicker blade that I use for harder woods. I also have a short version, about 4" blade that I use where space is an issue. If you take the time to set the blade in the wood and keep as much blade in the wood as you can, the saw will cut a straight line for you. Also, be mindful of the angle of the blade, larger saws, cross cut at 30*, rip at 15*, little saw at any angle. Larry
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You might want to have a look here........ http://hobbithouseinc.com/store/index.htm I've never purchased from them, but the wood looks nice. Good luck.
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Try this link for Cherry strips....good price. http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?c=&p=40840&cat=1,250,43217 Hope it works, never tried this before.......
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I purchased the Alfred for the Lumberyard at 3/16" to the foot or 64th scale. I have the full size plans in hand, building the framing cut out jigs and waiting on the lumber. Great ship, large size and offeres a lot of potential for interior work.
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