steamschooner

Build part 3
 
I completed the first major task this morning all the frames are now laminated for the molds. the other frames will come after the planks are fixed.
 

 

 
I will do the final sanding after the molds are fretted out.
 
Michael
 
 
 

Thanks for all the views and comments and likes.
 
Build Part 2
 
The laminating of the frames continues, if you ever get the chance to pick up one of these for cheap or even free which is how I got mine grab it, they are amazing paper cutters.
 

 
And as you can see they do a great job on thin aircraft ply as well.
 
The laminating of the frames continues
 

 
alongside other seasonal tasks I am waiting about 3 -4 hours before pulling the frames off the form then leaving a full 24 hours before doing any sanding. I have two more stations to go the one at 9' and the one at 6'. Once all the frames are laminated I will set up and fret out the centre sections, I will need to do this out in the shop where it will be a little easier than at the desk. 
The stations will then be set up on a board to receive the stern post keel, and stem elements.I will also carve a block once all the planking is done and fair it so as to make a mold for the lead keel.
 
If I don't get a chance to wish everyone a great Christmas holiday and any other forms that are celebrated at this time of the year.
 
Judy and Me wish you all Merry Christmas
 
Michael

Disclaimer This is all Pete's fault.
 
Because I already have too many builds on the go I thought why not another one. I know there are a few others here who merrily go about building a few boats/ships at the same time one of them shall remain nameless but we all know who it is.
 
Pete has already done enough waxing eloquently about the merits of the Herreshoff lineage of boat designs so there is no need for me to go into any great details here except to say that I completely agree with him on the elegance of the Herreshoff lines no matter what size he designed.
 
Build Part 1
 
Pete sent me a printed copy of the drawing he is using for his new boat it was already printed at 1 1/2 inch to the foot. (thanks Pete) I scanned it in order to trace it for developing some detailed model plans the lines plan is 50% and the body plans are 100%
 

 

 
I spent a lot of time studying the various images of the 14 on the net and was particularly drawn to the Port Hadlock WA Boat school photo stream
There are a lot of pictures of the 14 under construction and it is this version of the hull that I intend to model as far as the main structure of the hull. I have chosen this one because of the clarity of the construction methodology visible in the pictures.
 
Unfortunately there are no pictures that I have yet found of the beginning of the Port Hadlock boat which would have confirmed a few things about how they prepared the frames and if they used a set of mold forms with ribands to prepare the bent frames, but I suspect that is the method that was used.
 
I used corel draw this time instead of Autocad because I am more familiar with all the curve functions in corel. I used the line width function to shape the frames instead of drawing the outlines of them and this seems to be working well.
 
This hull will be a test of my skill at doing a proper planking job, I have learned so much since the first post on the Pilot Cutter (still planning on sailing her next summer) where I basically did not have a clue about what I was getting into and built that hull as if it were a strip built canoe. I have chosen 3/4 inch thick planks for the hull (3/32 inch) and wondered a while about what wood to use. I want to have the planks varnished and not painted (visions of Chucks planking job on his cutter  for the clarity and elegant execution)  as a goal but with a more reddish colour.
 
I remembered the redwood panels from the salvaged garage door and did a little re-sawing to get enough planks for the task.
 

 
stripped up to 3/32 x 9/16 (3/4 x 4 1/2)
 

 
Next I tried to bend some 5/32 square stock by all the different methods that I have read about on this forum and snapped most of them (what am I doing wrong?)
 
I remembered that I had a 5 foot by 5 foot sheet of 1mm birch aircraft ply so I cut some 3/16 strips up on the paper cutter, it worked very well surprisingly. I also printed and traced out one of the more challenging mould forms to add the frames to.
 
Next I used the wide throat jewelers saw to fret out the mould to use as a form for laminating the rib/frame the material is 1/4 inch Baltic birch ply.
 

 
The mold form was pinned to some cork covered homasote (at least that is what I think it is) and the 4 layers were laminated together.
 

 
In order to cancel out any discrepancy from side to side I laminated two of the same side, I will cut out the middle of the mold to help with the clamping of the planks.
 

 
This will now continue for the rest of the frames that will fit over the molds
 

 
Michael 
 
 
 
 
 

Spent a little time in the shipyard and got a couple of things done. First is the anchor davit, which I will need to blacken or paint.
 
I turned my masts, painted them and installed a couple of mast lights that I had made for this build.

Spent a little time in the shipyard and got a couple of things done. First is the anchor davit, which I will need to blacken or paint.
 
I turned my masts, painted them and installed a couple of mast lights that I had made for this build.

Spent a little time in the shipyard and got a couple of things done. First is the anchor davit, which I will need to blacken or paint.
 
I turned my masts, painted them and installed a couple of mast lights that I had made for this build.

Well I have been getting a few minutes here and there to work on my model. This is what I have gotten done on the boiler at this time.

Here's a couple of shots of my water feed pump. It will get painted and have small wire running to it to act as steam supply piping.   Wire will also be used to show water inlet and water outlets.

Here are a couple of shots of my generator motor. I know it's some what simplified but it was fun to build. All the machinery will get painted and after installing I will run small wire to them as supply piping.

Some cabin work is done as well as some pilot house work.

just recognized that there are no depth markings on my Pegasus, sorry, so here they come now....
 
Nils
 

 
letters made with Excel and ink printer on semi transperant paper
 
paper glue and a little transp. varnish over it...
 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

Hi Greg,
 
have taken up your suggestion and added two of the crew in the hold area....
Also placed some sailors, after painting them, into the rigging
 
Cheers
 
Nils
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

Thank you Patrick, George, Cees and Anthony for your very kind words and thanks to all for clicking the like button.
 
Picturesque eh Patrick, well yeah, it livens it up a little    They did use paint and a lot of carvings all around that were also painted.  I kinda want to make it look like how these ships were painted in the mid-17th century. 
 
Okay, I finished painting the starboard side, except for a few touchups that side done.  The greyed-down green looks pretty good on her.  I have to agree with Jan and Hans, it looks much better then before.  It even matches pretty close to the color chart I got from Ab Hooving.  Now on to the port side.
 
But before I turn the build dock around I wanted to make the galley chimney.  That'll be placed on the quarter deck against the port side bulwark, it's easier to reach it from the starboard side.  I first made a rough sketch with the measurements and proceeded to cut me some wood parts.  I used small pieces of basswood for the base and top with 1 mm birch plywood for the sides.  The swivel hood has also a base of basswood with 1/2 mm plywood for the sides.  The curved top is some shaved down pine to 1/4 mm.  The 1/2 mm plywood is just too stiff to make the curve.  
 
These chimneys were removable and a water tight hatch closed the hole in the deck.  I'm just going to cement this thing to the deck and forego cutting the hole in the deck with the coamings and the hatch - - at this stage o the game.  It'll be painted with the cherry like color paint I used for the railing caps.  No fancy carvings on this thing, I'm cheap
 
So, this is as far as I got in the last few days.  I don't know If I can do work tomorrow though, it's gotten very cold here the last few days.  We'll see.
 

Gwen looked at it and liked it very much.  Of course she also looked for errors an found a fe spots I missed - - - on the underside of the railing caps.  Those are the tough-ups I mentioned. 
 

 

 

 

 

I couldn't get the starboard door off and may have to use some stronger persuasion methods.  Oh well, in that case I'll most likely have to re-cement the hinges.  
 

This shows the sketch with the parts I cut.  That little pyramid like thingy in the center of the base is for the top of the chimney where the sided are cemented to. There'll be another thin square piece of wood cemented to that for the cap to rotate on. 
 

This shows the chimney base all cemented together with the rotatable cap in progress.  I left the cap base attached to the strip of wood for easy handling.  The top part of the cap is cemented only to it's base.  I'l' have to gently persuade it to lay down nicely on the sides.  I'm using CA gel glue for this. 
 
Cheers, 

Ironwork from steamboat wrecks was routinely salvaged, and indeed boilers, engines, and more were re-used on multiple boats. Bertrand's own machinery wasn't original, but was salvaged from another wreck and installed on the newly-built Bertrand.
 
I went back and re-read the academic papers by Dr Crisman dealing with Heroine's excavation, and they did not directly explain the 4-boiler count, other than citing an earlier reference to general practice of the time. However, there's an interesting comparison to be made with reference to my earlier guess about boiler numbers being related to the support structures. Nowhere in the Heroine papers could I find a direct reference to the WIDTH of the boiler supports, though they are described in general. The area of Heroine's hull where the boilers sat was the most damaged, and didn't have any decking remaining to preserve more evidence.
 
On the other hand, the Bertrand wreck did have the boiler-area deck intact, with special cross-timbers and decking in place to support the boilers, so we know for sure how wide that area was: about 10'. That's pretty narrow for a hull that was about 34' wide, not including the guards. As far as I know most steamboat boilers were around 3' in diameter (the papers state that Heroine's were 34"); that means Bertrand couldn't have had more than three boilers, and 2 seems more likely to accommodate the rest of the boiler structure. In comparison, Heroine is a much narrower boat, with a hull width of only around 20' (judging from the published diagrams), so four 34" boilers would have taken up 12'-14' of the total 20' hull width (though she also had guards). I believe Arabia's hull was about 30' wide, and we know she had 3 boilers. Finally, for whatever it's worth, Heroine is especially thin compared to later boats; her hull appears to be about 140' long though only 20' wide, compared to Bertrand's 161'x34'. 
 
This does NOT mean we should jump to conclusions about Heroine's boilers; there's no rule (to my knowledge) saying the boilers on a steamboat should be X% of the total hull width, and Heroine was built very early in the creative process of developing western riverboats, while Bertrand was built over 30 years later in a relatively more standardized age. But it is interesting to consider if/why Heroine had such a large boiler capacity for a small, one-engine boat compared to larger craft like Bertrand or Arabia, and I wonder if she turned out to be at all top-heavy given all that heavy power plant on such a narrow hull. 
 
I don't want to derail Glenn's build log into a longer discussion of other boats, so in general we should direct discussion of the Bertrand to my log instead. But in this case I think the comparison is interesting; I'm really interested in Glenn's thoughts or corrections on my guesswork here.

Nils,  What a stunning project your "Pegasus" turned out to be.  Thanks for letting us tag along.

Nils,  What a stunning project your "Pegasus" turned out to be.  Thanks for letting us tag along.

Nils,  What a stunning project your "Pegasus" turned out to be.  Thanks for letting us tag along.

Nils,  What a stunning project your "Pegasus" turned out to be.  Thanks for letting us tag along.

Some later views. All I have left to do is the Port forward section. Hope to finish by year end.

Nils,  What a stunning project your "Pegasus" turned out to be.  Thanks for letting us tag along.

and here the second lot of the final pictures......
 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 
 
 

Build log part 94
 
 
COMPLETE
 
 
This post rounds up and completes the 29 months build duration of my HMS Pegasus in scale 1:64.
 
After putting on rudder chains, all bow-lines with their bridles to the squaresails, and appropriate rigging, the crew and some naval infantry men shipped in today to take over an interception and patrol mission in the northern Atlantic. Perhaps there will still be anchor buoys fitted to the lower fore-shrouds....
 
Its been much fun to do this build and especially it`s extensive rigging with all those tiny blocks, but now she is a nice sight with all those sails and pushing her wake, riding on starboard bow with braced sails. Putting on nearly all lines the actual ship had, it was a good lesson in rigging. Next  week I`ll put the final pictures in my Gallery.
Now its time to do the glass display case for dust protection.
 
Due to the modification of the 12 sheet Amati plan set, and building it from scratch (no kit) there are :  the large open port side, the half planked decks, the interior decks and the visible inside fitting out. The POB scratch built ship`s boat is an extra, and the access to the forecastle is by a seperate stair / ladderway .
 
Many thanks to all that visited this build along the ride from beginning on, and so many thanks to all comments and appreciations, and "likes", it has been a pleasure and was very encouraging for me
 
here are the first 10 of appr. 20 final pics......
 
Enjoy the pictures
 
Nils
 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

Build log part 93
 
 
Update
 
brought in the spare spars (rough shaped) for the boat`s rest, a little asymetric offset to port side, so that the stb place on the gallow has place for taking up other items as well
 
Nils
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

I was almost able to complete the engine this week.  All that remains are the throttle handle and feewater preheater on the exhaust.  I fitted the flywheel bearings and the cam frame supports.  The next step will be position the remaining six bearings in-line with the flywheel bearings.  I'm planning on using a round beam from a beam compass and sleeves turned to the proper journal diameters to guarentee alignment.
 
Valve levers fresh from the mill and before and after soldering.

 
Valve levers and risers.

 
 
Assembled valve levers before blackening.

 
 
After blackening.

 
 
Cam frame supports and flywheel bearings after blackening.

 

 

 

 
 
Port view of nearly completed engine.

 
 
Starboard view.

I know this is not a stick and string type build, but I enjoy building vessels of local interest. The John Cudahy was built in Ballard Washington in 1900 for the fisheries trade. In 1904 she was sold to a tug firm in Grays Harbor and was rebuild for tug work. Her duties included ship assist and log raft towing. She was sold several times during her stay on Grays Harbor and went thur several changes. She went to work on the Columbia River for a number of years before being sold again. Foss tug bought her and rebuild her completely. Added length, changed to diesel power and renamed her Henry Foss. She was lost in Alaska in 1952. The period I chose to model is sometime after her conversion in 1905 to about 1915.