steamschooner

Start of the Deckhouse
 
I’m going to depart from the kit’s build sequence a bit. The next step in the instructions is to install about 100 triangular bulwark braces around the outside of the main deck. I’m going to hold off on that until I’ve fabricated the deckhouses and crane houses because of the need to place sandpaper on the deck and then rub the house bottoms on it to get a good fit with the deck. Given the limited clearance between the bulwarks I’m sure I would end up breaking off a lot of the braces.
 
The Main Deckhouse is made of up 3 levels. Each level in turn is a stack of 3 laser cut wooden pieces and a thin plastic top deck. The bottom wood piece is a framework so that the amount of surface area that has to be sanded to match the deck underneath it is minimized. The top wood piece is a 1/16 inch sheet that is sanded to form a camber, its center staying 1/16 thick and the outer edges sanded to nothing. Here’s what 1 set looks like:

 
Here’s all 12 pieces dry fitted in a stack:

Did a bit more work on the GR.  Added the chainplates  hull detail like howes holes and anchor skids.  And painted gloss black.

Thanks for the "likes" and commentary...  
 
Making progress.   The beams are in for the lower deck.  There's probably another couple that I'll need to put in once I figure out the shape at the bow and stern.  The bow, not so much, but the stern looks different on the drawing than it does looking into the hull.  i think it's not at deck level... just has me scratching my head as I know the beams are all at the right height.
 
Anyway, I'm checking fore and main mast locations and then I'll be dropping a bit of string down the centerline to double check and pin down where I'll need the mizzen mast step, the three hatches, and the bowsprit step. I'm also plotting out the walls and cabins but won't get to far into that until the deck is planked.   Which... I'm hoping to get started on this week as soon as I can get the planks cut.  The actual next step with the waterways.  The wood has been selected (cherry) and the appropriate sized pieces selected.  
 
Here's pictures.   Feel free to point out any stupidity or errors on my part.  
 


 

Nils, She is looking long and lean in those two photos !  Really coming together nicely. I don't envy you having to make so many boats for the boat deck . While I struggle to make two boats for my project

Nils, She is looking long and lean in those two photos !  Really coming together nicely. I don't envy you having to make so many boats for the boat deck . While I struggle to make two boats for my project

Nils, She is looking long and lean in those two photos !  Really coming together nicely. I don't envy you having to make so many boats for the boat deck . While I struggle to make two boats for my project

Nils, She is looking long and lean in those two photos !  Really coming together nicely. I don't envy you having to make so many boats for the boat deck . While I struggle to make two boats for my project

Nils, She is looking long and lean in those two photos !  Really coming together nicely. I don't envy you having to make so many boats for the boat deck . While I struggle to make two boats for my project

Update....
 
 
the fastening of the deck-edgerail works fine, its also quite riged afterwards. The wooden deck will end about 2 mm away from the rail edge, so that partialy the railing on the aft boatsdeck portion finds a good hold, and same time its a good waterlead all around the deck
 
Nils
 

 
preparing for the soldering work
 
 

 
the rail must be kept down on the spacer tubes and fixed there during soldering
 
 

 
the overstanding stanchions will be clipped off, before the deck goes on
 
 

 
now the most tricky part is done (aft boatsdeck edge-rail)
 
 

 
 

Hello,
 
Sorry for the lapse in updating the build.  The last two weeks have been plagued by a series of minor emergencies that have been keeping me pretty busy.  On top of everything, the motherboard on my 12 year old computer finally gave out.  With no CAM program, the mill has been sitting idle for two weeks.  I now have a "new" 6 year old computer and I think I've finally tracked down all the software I had before.  Back in business!
 
I've finished most of the planking of the boiler deck and have started on the construction of the deckhouse.
 
Steam scapepipe in place. 

 

 
Posts going in.  These were the only posts notched over the deck beams.  The rest will be lightly notched into the cap.

 
Top plate installed.

 
Intermediate posts to frame the windows.

 

 

 

 

 
I decided not to run the deck planking all the way forward at this time.  Instead I placed a lateral cap across the deck.  This brings the deck up to the same height around the entire circumference of the structure making the side planking a little neater.  It also allows me to hold off on installing the chimneys.  I'm still trying to figure out the transition.  I have to hold off on planking the side walkways as well.  The curved tops of the paddleboxes will have to go in first but, these can't be added until the sides of the deckhouse are planked.  I'll complete all this next week.

 
Final photo of Fridays progress.  Lowest four strakes of side planking in place. 

 
 
 
 

Running Gear
 
The Liberty Ships had a style of rudder that I have not seen before. It’s basically 2 airfoil shapes stacked on top of each other, the top one would give thrust to port and the bottom to starboard. The only reason for this that I can think of is that the relatively crude prop would have more side thrust than more complicated (and expensive) ones would so this was an attempt to reduce wear on the rudder bearings. 


 
Here’s mine. For those who may build the kit I recommend using.20 wire drilled into the rudder , covered by 1/16 tubing above it. The 3/32 stock recommended in the kit is too big after the rudder has been shaped.

Drilling a 1/8 inch hole into the thin after section was a little intimidating, I started with a 1/16 bit and worked my way up.

 
After the shaft opening was drilled it was time to finish the final shaping of the hull in that area:

Here’s the final product ( the prop and rudder are off plumb because they are not glued in place, I’ll glue them near the end of the build to save them from getting wacked.) The eye pads above the prop are scratch, you can see the real things in the first 2 pix above.

The anchors were easy to add. At this point the hull “outside the lifelines” is done except for painting.

Underwater stuff
 
The first item to add is the Paravane Chain Bracket to foot of the stem. The kit provides a nice piece of laser cut ply for the bracket:

 
After cutting a thin slot in the stem with a razor saw it slides into place:

 
The bilge keels are next. They are first cut to length, then the ends are shaped and finally both sides are sanded to bring the outboard edge to a knife-edge:

 
The slots are marked on the hull using the drawings. These are fairly straight with almost no rise at the ends, probably because with this hull shape and an 11 knot top speed these ships did not throw much of a bow wave. The slots were cut with a hobby knife and deepened and widened with a narrow file:

 
The starboard bilge keel in place prior to touching up with filler and primer:

 
Next up will be fabricating the rudder and prop shaft.

Many thanks to Tony, Mark (Taylor), david, and Carl,
 
and all the recent "Likes"....
 
 
Tony,
thanks for your words...
If you search the web for a certain build plan you may not always find a plan in the quality as detailed as you know them from the kit plans, but for a scratch builder, one must be happy with whatever was found. Often there are books with printed lines- and frameplans, and if you have luck you can see the corresponding frame spaces....
 
Mark,
thanks for your compliment, in the moment for example there are no plans how to fit on the upper boatsdeck, so its basicly working to what I think may workout, and doing trials...
 
David,
unfortunately I have no experience with hot air styrene forming over plugs, or vacuum forming, like member Kees did with his hulls (very interesting method)
 
Carl,
see enclosed pics...
it is my aim to go for that way. Some months ago I found and purchased a clinkered open double ender lifeboat in scale 1:144 with fine structured and detailed hull and also exactly 60 mm long (Bingo ! ), this perhaps may be the one to be used for taking a mold. But there remains the challenge of using a self made model,,, The problem I have, is the missing experience with making tiny silicone molds for the resin cast. Probably have to learn by doing...   Nils       the figurines are scale 1:160 in an 1:144 boat the model comes without rudder and oars and is a beautiful little model of a heritage lifeboat       60 mm long to fit neatly in the spaces on the boats deck        

Thank you Carl, much appreciated,
 
I`ll keep in mind to ask Kees, when the time for boatsfabrication arrives..., relating to the challenge, I`m always open for innovative techniques, as far as I can do with my humble toolpark
 
Nils

Well I have made some progress with my ship's boat. I also realized that the two boats that the Cudahy carried were different. So i guess I need to made another plug for the other boat. First one came off with out damage. Adding detail and a little strength to the form. Have a few more things to do with the boat like making a set of oars to tie down in side of it and adding some oarlock blocks.

Hi everyone
 
Thanks for all of your Likes and comments - Bob, yours especially!  I'm getting there, I swear!!!
 
Well, I've finally returned to working on (lots more of work still to go, of course) the internal fit-out of the Lower Deck.  In particular, I've added more doors, cupboards and panelling to the internal cabins.  I've also added a 'bit of life' to the walls and bulkheads by hanging various pictures and pieces of modern art (ok - use your imagination here!)...this is a modern luxury cruiser, of course.
 
I hope you like where the internal decoration is heading!
 
Cheers and have a great weekend, folks.
 
Cheers
 
Patrick

Update...
 
before carrying on with the boat deck supports, here an an intermediate rough crosscheck about davits in relation and position of outer boat deck edge-rail. I made a dummy for the boats arrangement. The overstanding stanchions (hight) will be clipped off after they are soldered to the rail. The 24 boats will be clinker planked and 60 mm long. Will think about resin cast technique here. The boatsdeck will be 1 mm thick ply and planked deck, just like promenade deck...
It looks OK so far   ....., but still a long way to get there
 
Nils
 

 
 

 
 

Hi folks!
 
Well......my mama always said to share. So, here I am sharing some more photos of Majellan's exterior.
 
Most notable are the test fittings of three of the four umbrellas. The fourth umbrella is lying off to one side whilst its glue dries.
 
I also reckon that the small area of deck directly in front of the Bridge's windows looked a bit bare. To address this, I'm toying with the idea of placing a small arm chair, along with a table for the odd guest, or two, to enjoy a sip of their cocktails whilst Majellan's underway. You can just make out the table and chair in some of the photos.
 
By the way, the third last photo is my absolute favourite, so far. Why? I dunno. I just reckon it is, that's all.
 
Thanks for all of your comments and Likes, as well.
 
Cheers and all the best!
 
Patrick

Hi folks
 
Thanks for all of your comments and Likes!
 
Today, I had a day-off work, so, I set about making Majellan's port and starboard navigation lights.  I also added a bit more detail to the ship's tender in a bid to make it look a bit more convincing.
 
Lastly, I repainted the jet skis.
 
I hope you all enjoy the photos!
 
Cheers
 
Patrick
 
 

Boyd,
 
I thank you very much for your nice compliment,
 
and thanks so much to all expressing their "likes"....
 
all much appreciated
 
 
Update
 
Startung with the stanchions for supporting the boatsdeck, starting in the area I meant in my post # 1258 with the dummy trial...
 
Nils
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

By way of illustration of my handy tip (!!!), the hull is now filled and sanded ready to put the keel strip on and then first coat of paint.
 
 
 
 

Bob, your build is coming along nicely, it's all those little details that bring it to life.

Bob, your build is coming along nicely, it's all those little details that bring it to life.

Bob, your build is coming along nicely, it's all those little details that bring it to life.

Bob, your build is coming along nicely, it's all those little details that bring it to life.