Chuck Seiler
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Chuck Seiler reacted to MrBlueJacket in Silkspan sails
Yes, we sell true silkspan, lite grade. It does have a "grain" which means it tears differently in one direction vs the other. This is important when you layer several sheets, you must alternate the orientation.
Nic
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Chuck Seiler got a reaction from tmj in Book on planking
I second Toni's suggestion. It is a great teaching tool and a great show piece when done well (which mine was NOT, but others in my club were).
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Chuck Seiler got a reaction from mtaylor in Book on planking
I second Toni's suggestion. It is a great teaching tool and a great show piece when done well (which mine was NOT, but others in my club were).
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Chuck Seiler reacted to kurtvd19 in Half Hull Planking Project
The half-hull kits are still available. Use the link on the MSW home page - The black line of topics immediately under the Model Ship World name - click on NRG Home Page - 4th to the right - and check out the NRG store to find the kit and ordering information.
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Chuck Seiler got a reaction from Coyote_6 in Book on planking
I second Toni's suggestion. It is a great teaching tool and a great show piece when done well (which mine was NOT, but others in my club were).
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Chuck Seiler got a reaction from Ryland Craze in Book on planking
I second Toni's suggestion. It is a great teaching tool and a great show piece when done well (which mine was NOT, but others in my club were).
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Chuck Seiler reacted to tlevine in Book on planking
If you are referring to hull planking, consider the NRG hull planking model and look at the hull planking link under my signature.
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Chuck Seiler got a reaction from CPDDET in High Quality Blocks
Syren Ship Model Company. A Model Ship World sponsor.
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Chuck Seiler got a reaction from mtaylor in High Quality Blocks
Syren Ship Model Company. A Model Ship World sponsor.
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Chuck Seiler got a reaction from Canute in Pinas by rcweir - Kolderstok - Scale 1:50 - Cross-Section - Dutch 17th Century ship
I have pretty much suspended work on the model pending our Country Fair. I will be working on it over a 9 day period in our club's ship modeling booth. I got as far as first futtock and some work on other pieces so I can work on it there. That having been said, I may finish a scrap piece of wood and try the 'bolt thing' just to see how it works out.
My thought is that if you buff the exposed end just before you insert it into the wood, using a cloth or something to avoid touching, it should work. We'll see.
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Chuck Seiler got a reaction from Canute in Pinas by rcweir - Kolderstok - Scale 1:50 - Cross-Section - Dutch 17th Century ship
One idea I am toying with is using appropriate size phospher broze wire from Tichy Train Group. Insert a small piece after the wood is finished, leaving a small rounded nib exposed. Then, darken using liver of sulpher. I am told it will not affect the wood.
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Chuck Seiler got a reaction from Canute in Pinas by rcweir - Kolderstok - Scale 1:50 - Cross-Section - Dutch 17th Century ship
Bob,
I found the gluing process for the first futtocks to be relatively simple, if using wood glue. A little dot of glue. or a little diluted glue, spread over about a half inch of the joint will work fine. Once the futtocks are in, the joint is basically one solid piece of wood, fore and aft. There is no real stress on the joint. I actually put a very little dot at the top of the floor timber, one at the bottom of the futtock and one about the middle of the joint, then thinned it out. The glue dries slow enough that you have plenty of time to position the futtocks into place as you want them.
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Chuck Seiler got a reaction from Canute in Pinas by rcweir - Kolderstok - Scale 1:50 - Cross-Section - Dutch 17th Century ship
Once you get above the 2nd futtock, then you have 2 options: long upper timber and short upper timber. I think they are almost the same length. I have not decided whether I will put one on one side and one on the other OR short on both sides. The longs will follow the lines of the short.
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Chuck Seiler got a reaction from Canute in Pinas by rcweir - Kolderstok - Scale 1:50 - Cross-Section - Dutch 17th Century ship
Here is the wooden template, as mentioned. I have built it up to the second futtock and ran a support piece across to prevent from snapping. The bottom of the support piece is even to where the bottom of the orlop deck-beam ledge will be.
Here, the template is temporarily attached to the partially complete hull (for demo purposes). When I finally get around to adding second futt, I will use comb and dab of glue to hold template in place, and use micrometer to ensure bottom of ledge is even.
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Chuck Seiler got a reaction from Canute in Pinas by rcweir - Kolderstok - Scale 1:50 - Cross-Section - Dutch 17th Century ship
I have this kit as well. Recently received. I don't know how far along you are and if my advice will be helpful.
I decided to dye the frames and keel with Trans Tint wood dye in alcohol. Used brown and amber mix, giving it a 'golden oak' color. I used the dye because it does not inhibit gluing. Stain looks better but inhibits gluing, in my experience.
While most of the wood is quality basswood, the planking in my kit was not. I went to the hobby store and got a sheet of 1/16" Midwest basswood and cut the planks on my Byrnes Saw. Better planks. I will use boxwood above the wales and will stain those.
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Chuck Seiler reacted to Fishooks in High Quality Blocks
Can anyone tell me where to buy quality finished blocks, either pearwood or boxwood...the only place i have heard of is Dry Dock Models but know nothing about them..?
Appreciate the assistance. Sick of the awful rough square boxwood ones in the average kit.
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Chuck Seiler got a reaction from Canute in Speeljacht by ccoyle - Seahorse - 1/50 - CARD - 17th-Century Dutch Pleasure Boat
Only three? You are slacking off.
Good luck with the paper model. I am a bit leary after my experience with Wutender Hund.
Yeah, sometimes those kits from Europe to the US can take awhile. I just finished a model from Ukraine (Shallop by Pavel Nikafin) and started one from Netherlands (Pinas Cross Section-Kolderstock). Both took a long time in transit.
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Chuck Seiler got a reaction from mtaylor in Pinas by rcweir - Kolderstok - Scale 1:50 - Cross-Section - Dutch 17th Century ship
I have pretty much suspended work on the model pending our Country Fair. I will be working on it over a 9 day period in our club's ship modeling booth. I got as far as first futtock and some work on other pieces so I can work on it there. That having been said, I may finish a scrap piece of wood and try the 'bolt thing' just to see how it works out.
My thought is that if you buff the exposed end just before you insert it into the wood, using a cloth or something to avoid touching, it should work. We'll see.
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Chuck Seiler got a reaction from mtaylor in Pinas by rcweir - Kolderstok - Scale 1:50 - Cross-Section - Dutch 17th Century ship
One idea I am toying with is using appropriate size phospher broze wire from Tichy Train Group. Insert a small piece after the wood is finished, leaving a small rounded nib exposed. Then, darken using liver of sulpher. I am told it will not affect the wood.
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Chuck Seiler got a reaction from rcweir in Pinas by rcweir - Kolderstok - Scale 1:50 - Cross-Section - Dutch 17th Century ship
I have pretty much suspended work on the model pending our Country Fair. I will be working on it over a 9 day period in our club's ship modeling booth. I got as far as first futtock and some work on other pieces so I can work on it there. That having been said, I may finish a scrap piece of wood and try the 'bolt thing' just to see how it works out.
My thought is that if you buff the exposed end just before you insert it into the wood, using a cloth or something to avoid touching, it should work. We'll see.
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Chuck Seiler reacted to rcweir in Pinas by rcweir - Kolderstok - Scale 1:50 - Cross-Section - Dutch 17th Century ship
Chuck, I'll be interested to know how it turns out for you. I had a similar idea using 14 gauge copper wire. (Of which I have a large supply.) My problems with that were mostly with getting the darkening chemical to do well for me, but also that it was slow work getting a nicely rounded end. The stopper for me, though, was darkening, and that was undoubtedly because I wasn't doing the cleaning well enough.
Bob
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Chuck Seiler got a reaction from BenD in Speeljacht by ccoyle - Seahorse - 1/50 - CARD - 17th-Century Dutch Pleasure Boat
Only three? You are slacking off.
Good luck with the paper model. I am a bit leary after my experience with Wutender Hund.
Yeah, sometimes those kits from Europe to the US can take awhile. I just finished a model from Ukraine (Shallop by Pavel Nikafin) and started one from Netherlands (Pinas Cross Section-Kolderstock). Both took a long time in transit.
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