Chuck Seiler
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Chuck Seiler got a reaction from Coyote_6 in Prince de Neufchatel by Coyote_6 – Constructo – 1/58 scale - American privateer
I dunno, the new Guildmeister is pretty adamant about having entries.
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Chuck Seiler reacted to WGibson in Gap on flat bottom
Just starting my first wooden boat, AL King of the Mississippi. The good news is that everything came out straight and centered. The bad news is that there is a small gap between the edge of the planks and the edge of the frame on both sides. It's really small to try and adhere another plank to, but would that be your suggestion? I thought about getting the sides down and then adding another plank to the bottom so that there would be some more width. Thanks for any thoughts!
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Chuck Seiler got a reaction from Coyote_6 in Prince de Neufchatel by Coyote_6 – Constructo – 1/58 scale - American privateer
Good luck dragging a fully masted model thru the Fair.
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Chuck Seiler reacted to Poppa Jim in A Long Time Coming
About sixty years ago I ran across a copy of To Glory We Steer, one of the Richard Bolitho series by Alexander Kent, in the Plattsburgh AFB library and started a decades-long on and off love affair with the fighting ships of that era. Made a few half-hearted attempts at modeling but was rapidly overcome. Then, about a month ago I ran across an ad in Smithsonian magazine for Model Expo’s Shipwright Series which sounded right up my alley. Currently working on my second attempt at the Norwegian Sailing Pram, waiting on the glue to dry after breaking (again!) the goddam aft transom support and trying to balance my latent OCD/perfectionism with a desire to learn some skills, which will involve tolerating mistakes. The Grand Banks Dory came out fair on the second try (I can only tolerate so many glue-unglue-reglue cycles before I start over from scratch). Gonna make a third attempt later.
Been lurking the forums and build logs for a week or two and am seeing an improvement in my skill level as a result. Enjoying the new hobby, especially since my back will no longer tolerate golf.
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Chuck Seiler reacted to Coyote_6 in Prince de Neufchatel by Coyote_6 – Constructo – 1/58 scale - American privateer
@Chuck Seiler I think we can safely assume that she will not be ready by summer. Most folks would say we're half done when the cannon, anchors and deck fittings are all rigged.
I hope to move aloft in the next couple months, I hope to build three ship's boats, and I haven't made any decisions on sails at this point. So still a long way to go I'm afraid.
But she should be impressive to work on in the booth by summer!
Steve
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Chuck Seiler reacted to Coyote_6 in Prince de Neufchatel by Coyote_6 – Constructo – 1/58 scale - American privateer
Whew! The holidays. Am I right?
So here we are 4 months later with remarkably little to show for the time. But to @Chuck Seiler I can attest I have indeed got the rudder and tiller squared away. (At least mostly anyway!)
Starting the new year correctly at the shipyard with a safety brief, the assembled staff paid keen attention.
Here is the rudder installation completed.
The devil being in the details, we have:
The pinned "Wood lock" is installed with a removable pin. The Wood Lock prevents the rudder from unshipping (falling off).
And of course if it did unship, the Rudder Pendants (brass chains) keep the rudder close to the to ship to facilitate repairs.
And of course the tiller yoke. If you remove the pin, the tiller yoke can slide out of the rudder head.
From the external bumpers up and the whole deck/bulkheads/rails have 3 coats of wipe on satin polyurethane clear coat. When cured, we will be ready to start some rudimentary rigging (tiller rigging and guns to start).
Thanks for looking in, and wishing everyone great new year!
Steve
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Chuck Seiler reacted to Snug Harbor Johnny in Question About Sanding Deck Planking (Beginner)
If anything, when in doubt, start with a higher number (finer grit) paper first (like 320) and just see what it does. You can always go coarser if you need to, rather than start too coarse - that can put scratches in the wood that have to be further sanded down with finer grits to remove, and that can make the planking get too thin.
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Chuck Seiler reacted to Thom49 in New Member - Starting Over
Hello everyone. I tired wooden ship modeling a few years ago and got really frustrated, too difficult of a kit for first timer. Recently took the advice to start with a simpler kit and it's now enjoyable. Looking forward to learning from the knowledge and experience of the MSW members.
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Chuck Seiler reacted to ccoyle in Please recommend kits
Welcome aboard!
A three-masted man-of-war is one of the most difficult types of wooden ships to model. As a beginner, you should aim toward the opposite end of the spectrum: smaller ship, fewer guns (if any), and less masting and rigging.
To get an idea of what other beginning modelers are building, take a look through the following 523 build logs, all of which have been tagged as first builds:
https://modelshipworld.com/tags/First Build/
Pay particular attention to the builds that have been tagged as "finished." Those are models that beginners actually finished -- a good attribute for any beginner kit!
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Chuck Seiler got a reaction from Archi in Basic Question on the Placement of the Wales
Allan,
I don't know where I got that info from. Maybe an actual quote or I merely deduced it from looking at plans. My memory on the subject of galleons is that the frame futtocks were not fastened together as they were in the 18th and early 19th century. Rather, they were fastened to a pair of wales and envisioned in the attached diagram.
Keith,
I find it hard to believe they are more 'rub rails'. As Allan pointed out, in the multi deck SOLs of the 18th/19th century you have wales well above where any other ship or pier would contact, If they don't serve as a place to anchor the knees, they are at least longitudinal structural members designed to strengthen the hull... along with internal stringers. Of course Joshua Humphries took the internal strengthening to a whole new level with CONSTITUTION.
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Chuck Seiler got a reaction from MikkiC in Golden City by Louie da fly - Scale 1:50 and 1:25 - solid hull - Paddlewheeler
I wasn't aware that there were paddle wheelers in the middle ages. 😁
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Chuck Seiler got a reaction from mtaylor in Wood Source
That surprises me, although I never got anything smaller than 1/16". There might be a limit down to which they can work. It wouldn't hurt to ask.
What wood?
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Chuck Seiler reacted to JacquesCousteau in Wood Source
When I tried to custom order 1/32‐inch thick sheets earlier this year, Ocooch told me that the thinnest they could do was 3/64-inch.
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Chuck Seiler reacted to Gregory in Wood Source
I've sourced a lot of wood from Ocooch, and was told they would do custom jobs, but they turned me down on a request for some 1/32 sheets.
Do you think they would do strips like 1x 6mm?
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Chuck Seiler got a reaction from barkeater in Wood Source
I would be reluctant to use oak in planking that small. The grain is quite coarse. I have been told beech is 'scale oak'. It is tight grained and easy to work with. I get beech from OCOOCH HARDWOOD.
That having been said, if you are dead set on using oak and Modelers Sawmill cannot get it, Ocooch probably can.
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Chuck Seiler reacted to barkeater in Wood Source
I third Chuck's recommendation. If you want to see what beech decking looks like, look in thread "snapshot of members current builds". I've put a few pictures of L'Unite in there as I've been doing the build and it has beech planking.
Rich
i also secom
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Chuck Seiler reacted to Wawona59 in Wood Source
I second Chuck's recommendation on beech instead of oak. Beech is a tight grained hardwood that takes stain well and is easy to work with. Oak is too course in my opinion for model work. A good source for beech is popsicle sticks. Save the sticks after you've enjoyed your ice cream bar.
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Chuck Seiler reacted to Chuck in what kind and dimension of wood (or other material) to use as battens to guide planking?
I usually go with 3/64 thick by 1/16. You could go thinner but I prefer a little more meat. I will at times go wider on larger models but 1/16" wide usually works just fine for me. If you are just ordering a few strips from Joe for this purpose, I would get both 1/32" and 3/64" thick strips which wont costs much considering you will have to pay shipping which will be the same for both thicknesses. I would go with boxwood or yes even cedar but any wood that isnt splintered will work just fine. Boxwood preferred.
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Chuck Seiler got a reaction from catopower in Pinas by rcweir - Kolderstok - Scale 1:50 - Cross-Section - Dutch 17th Century ship
Here is the wooden template, as mentioned. I have built it up to the second futtock and ran a support piece across to prevent from snapping. The bottom of the support piece is even to where the bottom of the orlop deck-beam ledge will be.
Here, the template is temporarily attached to the partially complete hull (for demo purposes). When I finally get around to adding second futt, I will use comb and dab of glue to hold template in place, and use micrometer to ensure bottom of ledge is even.
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Chuck Seiler reacted to Louie da fly in Remains of 500 year-old shipwreck: Dated 2019
Unfortunately a few seconds after opening the link it went to NY Times advertising and demanding I log in and let them have access to my personal stuff. Looked interesting up to that point, though.
Steven
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Chuck Seiler got a reaction from Ryland Craze in Wood Source
I would be reluctant to use oak in planking that small. The grain is quite coarse. I have been told beech is 'scale oak'. It is tight grained and easy to work with. I get beech from OCOOCH HARDWOOD.
That having been said, if you are dead set on using oak and Modelers Sawmill cannot get it, Ocooch probably can.
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Chuck Seiler got a reaction from mtaylor in Yellow and Yellow Ochre
IIRC, Nelson had his ships paint the masts below the tops yellow prior to Trafalgar so the could be distinguished from the French/Spanish in the smoke of battle. Not sure if he did this at other times or if the tradition was carried forward.
I don't believe Pegasus was at Trafalgar.
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Chuck Seiler got a reaction from Canute in Yellow and Yellow Ochre
IIRC, Nelson had his ships paint the masts below the tops yellow prior to Trafalgar so the could be distinguished from the French/Spanish in the smoke of battle. Not sure if he did this at other times or if the tradition was carried forward.
I don't believe Pegasus was at Trafalgar.
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Chuck Seiler got a reaction from thibaultron in Yellow and Yellow Ochre
IIRC, Nelson had his ships paint the masts below the tops yellow prior to Trafalgar so the could be distinguished from the French/Spanish in the smoke of battle. Not sure if he did this at other times or if the tradition was carried forward.
I don't believe Pegasus was at Trafalgar.
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