Moonbug

The fore t'gallant stay runs from the top of the fore t'gallant mast down to the bowsprit and then seizes to the open heart of the fore preventer stay. A little bit unique, but quite interesting.  Now, here's where I've deviated from the plans again. The FFM and others show two sets of thimbles around the end of the bowsprit- a pair together for the spritsail yard lifts, and three together for the t'gallant stay and the t'gallant bowlines. However, there is some evidence that a treble block was used instead of three thimbles. This is an option I first discovered from Dan Vadas as part of his Vulture build, and I really liked the look of it.  Five thimbles on the bowsprit looks much too busy to me - so I went with the block / thimble combination.
 

 
The rest of the fore t'gallant stay is pretty straightforward; looped around the top and then runs through the treble block.
 
 
 
As mentioned, the end of the line is seized to the open collar of the foremast preventer stay with a lanyard. 
 
 
 

Hey Phil, thanks - that’s exactly right.  Corny as it is - I imagine myself as the Capt’n, sorting out how I want her title run.  
    I think it would have been amazing to compare the setups between different captains - based on their personalities and purposes. 

Hey Phil, thanks - that’s exactly right.  Corny as it is - I imagine myself as the Capt’n, sorting out how I want her title run.  
    I think it would have been amazing to compare the setups between different captains - based on their personalities and purposes. 

As it turns out - there are a number of complications and some competing information when it comes to the main t'gallant stay.  First, although the text in chapter 17 is correct on the FFM - the schematic illustrations (and my computer generated images) show the stay running through a block attached to the fore masthead. However, all of my other resources show the block seized to the upper masthead.  I chose to go with the latter, not only because of the preponderance of the evidence, but it also looks more even and consistent. 
 
The next bit of conflicting information has to do with how the bottom end of the say is rigged. FFM has the line knotted to the strop of the upper preventer stay block. However (and this is actually pointed out in FFM's chapter), this only works if the line runs through the block at the main masthead.  A line coming from the UPPER masthead (as I'm going to have it) to the upper preventer stay block is fouled by the mast cap.
 
The way around this - is the 'alternative' version of rigging laid out in the FFM.  This version has the t'gallant stay running through a 9" block at the upper mast head (as mentioned above), then down to a thimble in an eye. That thimble is then attached to a second thimble (via a lanyard) that is part of a span that instead straddles the upper preventer stay block instead of attaching to it.  This is the method I'm using.
 
First, I created the span using a served .30mm line with a thimble. 
 

 
I quickly discovered, that even with this span / thimble - the line running from the block above it will still foul on the mast cap.  So I carefully shaved off a little of the cap and repainted it.
 

 
The upper 9" (3.5mm) block is attached - but instead of stropping it around the masthead - I'm flat out of room - I stropped it just below the cross trees at the hounds.
 

 
Finally, the two thimbles are lashed together with a lanyard and a fap and tied off.
 

 
An overall look - I definitely think it makes more sense for this line to run from the upper masthead rather than the lower.
 

Hey Phil, thanks - that’s exactly right.  Corny as it is - I imagine myself as the Capt’n, sorting out how I want her title run.  
    I think it would have been amazing to compare the setups between different captains - based on their personalities and purposes. 

As it turns out - there are a number of complications and some competing information when it comes to the main t'gallant stay.  First, although the text in chapter 17 is correct on the FFM - the schematic illustrations (and my computer generated images) show the stay running through a block attached to the fore masthead. However, all of my other resources show the block seized to the upper masthead.  I chose to go with the latter, not only because of the preponderance of the evidence, but it also looks more even and consistent. 
 
The next bit of conflicting information has to do with how the bottom end of the say is rigged. FFM has the line knotted to the strop of the upper preventer stay block. However (and this is actually pointed out in FFM's chapter), this only works if the line runs through the block at the main masthead.  A line coming from the UPPER masthead (as I'm going to have it) to the upper preventer stay block is fouled by the mast cap.
 
The way around this - is the 'alternative' version of rigging laid out in the FFM.  This version has the t'gallant stay running through a 9" block at the upper mast head (as mentioned above), then down to a thimble in an eye. That thimble is then attached to a second thimble (via a lanyard) that is part of a span that instead straddles the upper preventer stay block instead of attaching to it.  This is the method I'm using.
 
First, I created the span using a served .30mm line with a thimble. 
 

 
I quickly discovered, that even with this span / thimble - the line running from the block above it will still foul on the mast cap.  So I carefully shaved off a little of the cap and repainted it.
 

 
The upper 9" (3.5mm) block is attached - but instead of stropping it around the masthead - I'm flat out of room - I stropped it just below the cross trees at the hounds.
 

 
Finally, the two thimbles are lashed together with a lanyard and a fap and tied off.
 

 
An overall look - I definitely think it makes more sense for this line to run from the upper masthead rather than the lower.
 

As it turns out - there are a number of complications and some competing information when it comes to the main t'gallant stay.  First, although the text in chapter 17 is correct on the FFM - the schematic illustrations (and my computer generated images) show the stay running through a block attached to the fore masthead. However, all of my other resources show the block seized to the upper masthead.  I chose to go with the latter, not only because of the preponderance of the evidence, but it also looks more even and consistent. 
 
The next bit of conflicting information has to do with how the bottom end of the say is rigged. FFM has the line knotted to the strop of the upper preventer stay block. However (and this is actually pointed out in FFM's chapter), this only works if the line runs through the block at the main masthead.  A line coming from the UPPER masthead (as I'm going to have it) to the upper preventer stay block is fouled by the mast cap.
 
The way around this - is the 'alternative' version of rigging laid out in the FFM.  This version has the t'gallant stay running through a 9" block at the upper mast head (as mentioned above), then down to a thimble in an eye. That thimble is then attached to a second thimble (via a lanyard) that is part of a span that instead straddles the upper preventer stay block instead of attaching to it.  This is the method I'm using.
 
First, I created the span using a served .30mm line with a thimble. 
 

 
I quickly discovered, that even with this span / thimble - the line running from the block above it will still foul on the mast cap.  So I carefully shaved off a little of the cap and repainted it.
 

 
The upper 9" (3.5mm) block is attached - but instead of stropping it around the masthead - I'm flat out of room - I stropped it just below the cross trees at the hounds.
 

 
Finally, the two thimbles are lashed together with a lanyard and a fap and tied off.
 

 
An overall look - I definitely think it makes more sense for this line to run from the upper masthead rather than the lower.
 

Bug,
 
Nice looking model! Figuring out how to run the rigging so the lines don't foul or chafe is tricky. Regardless of what the plans say, it has to work on your model!

As it turns out - there are a number of complications and some competing information when it comes to the main t'gallant stay.  First, although the text in chapter 17 is correct on the FFM - the schematic illustrations (and my computer generated images) show the stay running through a block attached to the fore masthead. However, all of my other resources show the block seized to the upper masthead.  I chose to go with the latter, not only because of the preponderance of the evidence, but it also looks more even and consistent. 
 
The next bit of conflicting information has to do with how the bottom end of the say is rigged. FFM has the line knotted to the strop of the upper preventer stay block. However (and this is actually pointed out in FFM's chapter), this only works if the line runs through the block at the main masthead.  A line coming from the UPPER masthead (as I'm going to have it) to the upper preventer stay block is fouled by the mast cap.
 
The way around this - is the 'alternative' version of rigging laid out in the FFM.  This version has the t'gallant stay running through a 9" block at the upper mast head (as mentioned above), then down to a thimble in an eye. That thimble is then attached to a second thimble (via a lanyard) that is part of a span that instead straddles the upper preventer stay block instead of attaching to it.  This is the method I'm using.
 
First, I created the span using a served .30mm line with a thimble. 
 

 
I quickly discovered, that even with this span / thimble - the line running from the block above it will still foul on the mast cap.  So I carefully shaved off a little of the cap and repainted it.
 

 
The upper 9" (3.5mm) block is attached - but instead of stropping it around the masthead - I'm flat out of room - I stropped it just below the cross trees at the hounds.
 

 
Finally, the two thimbles are lashed together with a lanyard and a fap and tied off.
 

 
An overall look - I definitely think it makes more sense for this line to run from the upper masthead rather than the lower.
 

As it turns out - there are a number of complications and some competing information when it comes to the main t'gallant stay.  First, although the text in chapter 17 is correct on the FFM - the schematic illustrations (and my computer generated images) show the stay running through a block attached to the fore masthead. However, all of my other resources show the block seized to the upper masthead.  I chose to go with the latter, not only because of the preponderance of the evidence, but it also looks more even and consistent. 
 
The next bit of conflicting information has to do with how the bottom end of the say is rigged. FFM has the line knotted to the strop of the upper preventer stay block. However (and this is actually pointed out in FFM's chapter), this only works if the line runs through the block at the main masthead.  A line coming from the UPPER masthead (as I'm going to have it) to the upper preventer stay block is fouled by the mast cap.
 
The way around this - is the 'alternative' version of rigging laid out in the FFM.  This version has the t'gallant stay running through a 9" block at the upper mast head (as mentioned above), then down to a thimble in an eye. That thimble is then attached to a second thimble (via a lanyard) that is part of a span that instead straddles the upper preventer stay block instead of attaching to it.  This is the method I'm using.
 
First, I created the span using a served .30mm line with a thimble. 
 

 
I quickly discovered, that even with this span / thimble - the line running from the block above it will still foul on the mast cap.  So I carefully shaved off a little of the cap and repainted it.
 

 
The upper 9" (3.5mm) block is attached - but instead of stropping it around the masthead - I'm flat out of room - I stropped it just below the cross trees at the hounds.
 

 
Finally, the two thimbles are lashed together with a lanyard and a fap and tied off.
 

 
An overall look - I definitely think it makes more sense for this line to run from the upper masthead rather than the lower.
 

As it turns out - there are a number of complications and some competing information when it comes to the main t'gallant stay.  First, although the text in chapter 17 is correct on the FFM - the schematic illustrations (and my computer generated images) show the stay running through a block attached to the fore masthead. However, all of my other resources show the block seized to the upper masthead.  I chose to go with the latter, not only because of the preponderance of the evidence, but it also looks more even and consistent. 
 
The next bit of conflicting information has to do with how the bottom end of the say is rigged. FFM has the line knotted to the strop of the upper preventer stay block. However (and this is actually pointed out in FFM's chapter), this only works if the line runs through the block at the main masthead.  A line coming from the UPPER masthead (as I'm going to have it) to the upper preventer stay block is fouled by the mast cap.
 
The way around this - is the 'alternative' version of rigging laid out in the FFM.  This version has the t'gallant stay running through a 9" block at the upper mast head (as mentioned above), then down to a thimble in an eye. That thimble is then attached to a second thimble (via a lanyard) that is part of a span that instead straddles the upper preventer stay block instead of attaching to it.  This is the method I'm using.
 
First, I created the span using a served .30mm line with a thimble. 
 

 
I quickly discovered, that even with this span / thimble - the line running from the block above it will still foul on the mast cap.  So I carefully shaved off a little of the cap and repainted it.
 

 
The upper 9" (3.5mm) block is attached - but instead of stropping it around the masthead - I'm flat out of room - I stropped it just below the cross trees at the hounds.
 

 
Finally, the two thimbles are lashed together with a lanyard and a fap and tied off.
 

 
An overall look - I definitely think it makes more sense for this line to run from the upper masthead rather than the lower.
 

The main topmast stay and main topmast preventer stay obviously follow the same pattern as the foremast - though they are reversed in their placement. Meaning, the preventer stay is laid over the masthead first, then the main topmast stay.  The preventer is a 4" line - .50mm at scale - served to just past the mouse as with the others. The line feeds through an 11" (4.5mm) block that is lashed to the foremast just below the hounds and above the catharpins. The block is stropped with a fully served .38mm line.  I used the FFM's version of this strop - an eye on one end, wrapping around the block, then the free end looping around the mast, through the eye, and tied off against itself.
 

 
The bottom tackle of the preventer (as well as the main topmast stay) is made up of a violin block at it's top and a single block attached to a hook that is secured to one of the eyebolts in the deck at the base of the foremast.  The preventer is secured to the port side foremost eyebolt. This was a tricky bit to get measured properly. My process was to first secure the single block to the hook then measure it's length to find a reference point on the mast. Then, I laid the violin block against the stay pulling it down the mast until I found a reasonable distance between the blocks for the lanyard. In this case, it was about 7mm. Then, I unhooked the hook and added the lanyard using .30mm line without securing one end of the line.  Finally, I re-hooked the bottom block into place, tightened the lanyard and stay, and secured the lanyard to the bottom end of the tackle. 
 

 
This process is repeated for the main topmast stay with the line being 5.5" - .70mm at scale - and using an 14" inch (5.5mm) block that is stropped and lashed to the masthead above the stays and jeer tie lashings. The bottom tackle is the same and hooked to the starboard side eyebolt at the front of the foremast.  
 

 
 
 

 
Starting to look like a rigged ship!

As it turns out - there are a number of complications and some competing information when it comes to the main t'gallant stay.  First, although the text in chapter 17 is correct on the FFM - the schematic illustrations (and my computer generated images) show the stay running through a block attached to the fore masthead. However, all of my other resources show the block seized to the upper masthead.  I chose to go with the latter, not only because of the preponderance of the evidence, but it also looks more even and consistent. 
 
The next bit of conflicting information has to do with how the bottom end of the say is rigged. FFM has the line knotted to the strop of the upper preventer stay block. However (and this is actually pointed out in FFM's chapter), this only works if the line runs through the block at the main masthead.  A line coming from the UPPER masthead (as I'm going to have it) to the upper preventer stay block is fouled by the mast cap.
 
The way around this - is the 'alternative' version of rigging laid out in the FFM.  This version has the t'gallant stay running through a 9" block at the upper mast head (as mentioned above), then down to a thimble in an eye. That thimble is then attached to a second thimble (via a lanyard) that is part of a span that instead straddles the upper preventer stay block instead of attaching to it.  This is the method I'm using.
 
First, I created the span using a served .30mm line with a thimble. 
 

 
I quickly discovered, that even with this span / thimble - the line running from the block above it will still foul on the mast cap.  So I carefully shaved off a little of the cap and repainted it.
 

 
The upper 9" (3.5mm) block is attached - but instead of stropping it around the masthead - I'm flat out of room - I stropped it just below the cross trees at the hounds.
 

 
Finally, the two thimbles are lashed together with a lanyard and a fap and tied off.
 

 
An overall look - I definitely think it makes more sense for this line to run from the upper masthead rather than the lower.
 

As it turns out - there are a number of complications and some competing information when it comes to the main t'gallant stay.  First, although the text in chapter 17 is correct on the FFM - the schematic illustrations (and my computer generated images) show the stay running through a block attached to the fore masthead. However, all of my other resources show the block seized to the upper masthead.  I chose to go with the latter, not only because of the preponderance of the evidence, but it also looks more even and consistent. 
 
The next bit of conflicting information has to do with how the bottom end of the say is rigged. FFM has the line knotted to the strop of the upper preventer stay block. However (and this is actually pointed out in FFM's chapter), this only works if the line runs through the block at the main masthead.  A line coming from the UPPER masthead (as I'm going to have it) to the upper preventer stay block is fouled by the mast cap.
 
The way around this - is the 'alternative' version of rigging laid out in the FFM.  This version has the t'gallant stay running through a 9" block at the upper mast head (as mentioned above), then down to a thimble in an eye. That thimble is then attached to a second thimble (via a lanyard) that is part of a span that instead straddles the upper preventer stay block instead of attaching to it.  This is the method I'm using.
 
First, I created the span using a served .30mm line with a thimble. 
 

 
I quickly discovered, that even with this span / thimble - the line running from the block above it will still foul on the mast cap.  So I carefully shaved off a little of the cap and repainted it.
 

 
The upper 9" (3.5mm) block is attached - but instead of stropping it around the masthead - I'm flat out of room - I stropped it just below the cross trees at the hounds.
 

 
Finally, the two thimbles are lashed together with a lanyard and a fap and tied off.
 

 
An overall look - I definitely think it makes more sense for this line to run from the upper masthead rather than the lower.
 

As it turns out - there are a number of complications and some competing information when it comes to the main t'gallant stay.  First, although the text in chapter 17 is correct on the FFM - the schematic illustrations (and my computer generated images) show the stay running through a block attached to the fore masthead. However, all of my other resources show the block seized to the upper masthead.  I chose to go with the latter, not only because of the preponderance of the evidence, but it also looks more even and consistent. 
 
The next bit of conflicting information has to do with how the bottom end of the say is rigged. FFM has the line knotted to the strop of the upper preventer stay block. However (and this is actually pointed out in FFM's chapter), this only works if the line runs through the block at the main masthead.  A line coming from the UPPER masthead (as I'm going to have it) to the upper preventer stay block is fouled by the mast cap.
 
The way around this - is the 'alternative' version of rigging laid out in the FFM.  This version has the t'gallant stay running through a 9" block at the upper mast head (as mentioned above), then down to a thimble in an eye. That thimble is then attached to a second thimble (via a lanyard) that is part of a span that instead straddles the upper preventer stay block instead of attaching to it.  This is the method I'm using.
 
First, I created the span using a served .30mm line with a thimble. 
 

 
I quickly discovered, that even with this span / thimble - the line running from the block above it will still foul on the mast cap.  So I carefully shaved off a little of the cap and repainted it.
 

 
The upper 9" (3.5mm) block is attached - but instead of stropping it around the masthead - I'm flat out of room - I stropped it just below the cross trees at the hounds.
 

 
Finally, the two thimbles are lashed together with a lanyard and a fap and tied off.
 

 
An overall look - I definitely think it makes more sense for this line to run from the upper masthead rather than the lower.
 

As it turns out - there are a number of complications and some competing information when it comes to the main t'gallant stay.  First, although the text in chapter 17 is correct on the FFM - the schematic illustrations (and my computer generated images) show the stay running through a block attached to the fore masthead. However, all of my other resources show the block seized to the upper masthead.  I chose to go with the latter, not only because of the preponderance of the evidence, but it also looks more even and consistent. 
 
The next bit of conflicting information has to do with how the bottom end of the say is rigged. FFM has the line knotted to the strop of the upper preventer stay block. However (and this is actually pointed out in FFM's chapter), this only works if the line runs through the block at the main masthead.  A line coming from the UPPER masthead (as I'm going to have it) to the upper preventer stay block is fouled by the mast cap.
 
The way around this - is the 'alternative' version of rigging laid out in the FFM.  This version has the t'gallant stay running through a 9" block at the upper mast head (as mentioned above), then down to a thimble in an eye. That thimble is then attached to a second thimble (via a lanyard) that is part of a span that instead straddles the upper preventer stay block instead of attaching to it.  This is the method I'm using.
 
First, I created the span using a served .30mm line with a thimble. 
 

 
I quickly discovered, that even with this span / thimble - the line running from the block above it will still foul on the mast cap.  So I carefully shaved off a little of the cap and repainted it.
 

 
The upper 9" (3.5mm) block is attached - but instead of stropping it around the masthead - I'm flat out of room - I stropped it just below the cross trees at the hounds.
 

 
Finally, the two thimbles are lashed together with a lanyard and a fap and tied off.
 

 
An overall look - I definitely think it makes more sense for this line to run from the upper masthead rather than the lower.
 

Several hours of work, and very few photos can only mean one thing - ratlines.  Finished up the rest of them. No mystery here - same as the lowers, with a piece of 5mm graph paper serving as a template and spacing them out then filling in the gaps. Ratlines are tied off with half hitches, then diluted glue on all the knots. I give it a good overnight drying before I go through and clip off all the ends with a scalpel. 
 

 
I also added the upper shroud cleats. 
 
 
 
 
 

The main topmast stay and main topmast preventer stay obviously follow the same pattern as the foremast - though they are reversed in their placement. Meaning, the preventer stay is laid over the masthead first, then the main topmast stay.  The preventer is a 4" line - .50mm at scale - served to just past the mouse as with the others. The line feeds through an 11" (4.5mm) block that is lashed to the foremast just below the hounds and above the catharpins. The block is stropped with a fully served .38mm line.  I used the FFM's version of this strop - an eye on one end, wrapping around the block, then the free end looping around the mast, through the eye, and tied off against itself.
 

 
The bottom tackle of the preventer (as well as the main topmast stay) is made up of a violin block at it's top and a single block attached to a hook that is secured to one of the eyebolts in the deck at the base of the foremast.  The preventer is secured to the port side foremost eyebolt. This was a tricky bit to get measured properly. My process was to first secure the single block to the hook then measure it's length to find a reference point on the mast. Then, I laid the violin block against the stay pulling it down the mast until I found a reasonable distance between the blocks for the lanyard. In this case, it was about 7mm. Then, I unhooked the hook and added the lanyard using .30mm line without securing one end of the line.  Finally, I re-hooked the bottom block into place, tightened the lanyard and stay, and secured the lanyard to the bottom end of the tackle. 
 

 
This process is repeated for the main topmast stay with the line being 5.5" - .70mm at scale - and using an 14" inch (5.5mm) block that is stropped and lashed to the masthead above the stays and jeer tie lashings. The bottom tackle is the same and hooked to the starboard side eyebolt at the front of the foremast.  
 

 
 
 

 
Starting to look like a rigged ship!

Getting ready for the T'Gallant rigging takes a couple preemptive steps.  As the FFM points out - getting the upper jeer tyes done before mounting the T'gallant masts is quite a bit easier than waiting until later. Even though these area simpler bit of rigging than the lower versions, I still found the quite tricky as I am running out of room on the upper mast heads.  Were I to do it again - I would allow for more room on the upper heads above the cross trees and tressle trees than the measurements suggest. The blocks for both fore and main are listed as 14" or 5.5mm.  
 

 
While I probably could have waited a bit longer to mount the jib boom, I decided to do it now so I can start to wrap up the standing rigging.  Mounting the boom requires wrapping the crupper - a 2" line - I used .25mm with six wraps and secured very similar to the gammoning. While Lees has this wrapping forward of the saddle, I stuck with the FFM which shows it aft. 
 

 
Before any rigging can be added to the end of the jib boom, I first need to sort out the jib boom traveller. This is a specific piece of iron work that has a ring that holds the jib outhaul and the running end of the jib stay. It also has a hook  that holds the tack of the jib. Both of these are attached to a larger ring that runs along the jib boom.  I shaped all these with two different gauges of wire and silver solder.
 

 
Finally, the entire piece is blackened and run over the end of the jib boom.
 

 

Here are the post sanding picks.  I know this borders on sacrilege to the purists out there... but I gave it a first pass using my really cool Dremel/rotary tool extension and a 60 grit tip on slow speed.  The extension allows you to hold it like a pencil and really lightly and specifically cover areas. 
 

 
  After I evened out the hull in general terms, I gave it more traditional sanding with 150, 220, 400, and 600 grit. There are a few slight gaps that I filled in with glue/sawdust (which is why they show up a little darker) or "Wonderfill". 
 
 
 
 
 
Next steps are to carve out a new rabbet line for the second planking layer, then I'm going to draw out the planking plans with pencil onto the light wood so I can scale out the necessary tapering and (possibly) stealers. 
 
 
 
 

Getting ready for the T'Gallant rigging takes a couple preemptive steps.  As the FFM points out - getting the upper jeer tyes done before mounting the T'gallant masts is quite a bit easier than waiting until later. Even though these area simpler bit of rigging than the lower versions, I still found the quite tricky as I am running out of room on the upper mast heads.  Were I to do it again - I would allow for more room on the upper heads above the cross trees and tressle trees than the measurements suggest. The blocks for both fore and main are listed as 14" or 5.5mm.  
 

 
While I probably could have waited a bit longer to mount the jib boom, I decided to do it now so I can start to wrap up the standing rigging.  Mounting the boom requires wrapping the crupper - a 2" line - I used .25mm with six wraps and secured very similar to the gammoning. While Lees has this wrapping forward of the saddle, I stuck with the FFM which shows it aft. 
 

 
Before any rigging can be added to the end of the jib boom, I first need to sort out the jib boom traveller. This is a specific piece of iron work that has a ring that holds the jib outhaul and the running end of the jib stay. It also has a hook  that holds the tack of the jib. Both of these are attached to a larger ring that runs along the jib boom.  I shaped all these with two different gauges of wire and silver solder.
 

 
Finally, the entire piece is blackened and run over the end of the jib boom.
 

 

Getting ready for the T'Gallant rigging takes a couple preemptive steps.  As the FFM points out - getting the upper jeer tyes done before mounting the T'gallant masts is quite a bit easier than waiting until later. Even though these area simpler bit of rigging than the lower versions, I still found the quite tricky as I am running out of room on the upper mast heads.  Were I to do it again - I would allow for more room on the upper heads above the cross trees and tressle trees than the measurements suggest. The blocks for both fore and main are listed as 14" or 5.5mm.  
 

 
While I probably could have waited a bit longer to mount the jib boom, I decided to do it now so I can start to wrap up the standing rigging.  Mounting the boom requires wrapping the crupper - a 2" line - I used .25mm with six wraps and secured very similar to the gammoning. While Lees has this wrapping forward of the saddle, I stuck with the FFM which shows it aft. 
 

 
Before any rigging can be added to the end of the jib boom, I first need to sort out the jib boom traveller. This is a specific piece of iron work that has a ring that holds the jib outhaul and the running end of the jib stay. It also has a hook  that holds the tack of the jib. Both of these are attached to a larger ring that runs along the jib boom.  I shaped all these with two different gauges of wire and silver solder.
 

 
Finally, the entire piece is blackened and run over the end of the jib boom.
 

 

Getting ready for the T'Gallant rigging takes a couple preemptive steps.  As the FFM points out - getting the upper jeer tyes done before mounting the T'gallant masts is quite a bit easier than waiting until later. Even though these area simpler bit of rigging than the lower versions, I still found the quite tricky as I am running out of room on the upper mast heads.  Were I to do it again - I would allow for more room on the upper heads above the cross trees and tressle trees than the measurements suggest. The blocks for both fore and main are listed as 14" or 5.5mm.  
 

 
While I probably could have waited a bit longer to mount the jib boom, I decided to do it now so I can start to wrap up the standing rigging.  Mounting the boom requires wrapping the crupper - a 2" line - I used .25mm with six wraps and secured very similar to the gammoning. While Lees has this wrapping forward of the saddle, I stuck with the FFM which shows it aft. 
 

 
Before any rigging can be added to the end of the jib boom, I first need to sort out the jib boom traveller. This is a specific piece of iron work that has a ring that holds the jib outhaul and the running end of the jib stay. It also has a hook  that holds the tack of the jib. Both of these are attached to a larger ring that runs along the jib boom.  I shaped all these with two different gauges of wire and silver solder.
 

 
Finally, the entire piece is blackened and run over the end of the jib boom.
 

 

Getting ready for the T'Gallant rigging takes a couple preemptive steps.  As the FFM points out - getting the upper jeer tyes done before mounting the T'gallant masts is quite a bit easier than waiting until later. Even though these area simpler bit of rigging than the lower versions, I still found the quite tricky as I am running out of room on the upper mast heads.  Were I to do it again - I would allow for more room on the upper heads above the cross trees and tressle trees than the measurements suggest. The blocks for both fore and main are listed as 14" or 5.5mm.  
 

 
While I probably could have waited a bit longer to mount the jib boom, I decided to do it now so I can start to wrap up the standing rigging.  Mounting the boom requires wrapping the crupper - a 2" line - I used .25mm with six wraps and secured very similar to the gammoning. While Lees has this wrapping forward of the saddle, I stuck with the FFM which shows it aft. 
 

 
Before any rigging can be added to the end of the jib boom, I first need to sort out the jib boom traveller. This is a specific piece of iron work that has a ring that holds the jib outhaul and the running end of the jib stay. It also has a hook  that holds the tack of the jib. Both of these are attached to a larger ring that runs along the jib boom.  I shaped all these with two different gauges of wire and silver solder.
 

 
Finally, the entire piece is blackened and run over the end of the jib boom.
 

 

Getting ready for the T'Gallant rigging takes a couple preemptive steps.  As the FFM points out - getting the upper jeer tyes done before mounting the T'gallant masts is quite a bit easier than waiting until later. Even though these area simpler bit of rigging than the lower versions, I still found the quite tricky as I am running out of room on the upper mast heads.  Were I to do it again - I would allow for more room on the upper heads above the cross trees and tressle trees than the measurements suggest. The blocks for both fore and main are listed as 14" or 5.5mm.  
 

 
While I probably could have waited a bit longer to mount the jib boom, I decided to do it now so I can start to wrap up the standing rigging.  Mounting the boom requires wrapping the crupper - a 2" line - I used .25mm with six wraps and secured very similar to the gammoning. While Lees has this wrapping forward of the saddle, I stuck with the FFM which shows it aft. 
 

 
Before any rigging can be added to the end of the jib boom, I first need to sort out the jib boom traveller. This is a specific piece of iron work that has a ring that holds the jib outhaul and the running end of the jib stay. It also has a hook  that holds the tack of the jib. Both of these are attached to a larger ring that runs along the jib boom.  I shaped all these with two different gauges of wire and silver solder.
 

 
Finally, the entire piece is blackened and run over the end of the jib boom.