SawdustDave

I've been away from my log way to long, vacation, sickness and other projects kept me away from my Kingfisher. Time for an update, although a little off topic. I wasn't very pleased with the storage space I made under my workbench so it was time for a big upgrade. More drawers and a sliding platform to keep the power tools within practical reach. Always nice to do a full size project. Here's before, during and after.
 

 

 

 

 
Stay tuned for updates on the KF
 
Remco
 
 

Planking continued, the black strake (that won't be stained black) and the first strake above it. The openings for the ports and sweep ports are roughly cut. The joints are tinted with pencel lead, it does not show now but it will when the finish s applied.
I'll be taking some shore leave and be back in a week.
 

 

 
Remco

Here you go Tom. A small plate is soldered to a piece of thread rod. I made plates from those little hook's you can nail to the wall to hang a small picture from. The device is locked at the back of the frame with a cocktail stick.
At first I used wing nuts as I could not find thumb nuts, the thumb nuts work way better as you can tighten them with one hand, with a wing nut this will take you much longer, not good when the glue is drying while your applying the clamps. 
 

 

 
Remco

A second day of studying Karl's craftsmanship....I remain speechless....there simply are no words that would serve justice to what my eyes are telling me. This work could only be properly described by a great poet.
Thank you Karl
 
For Karl......
 
Ein zweiter Tag des Studiums Karl's Handwerkskunst .... Ich bin immer noch sprachlos ... es gibt einfach keine Worte, w\'fcrde dazu dienen, was meine Augen mir sagen. Diese Arbeit kann man nur richtig beschrieben durch ein gro\'dfer Dichter.\
Vielen Dank Karl

Hi friends ,
 
 
 
 
 
 
Teil 2
 
 
Regards Karl

Hi friends.
 
 
A. Hold  -  Lagerräume
     9 Magazine and Powder-rooms
        Lager-und Pulverkammer
 
B. Orlop  -  Unterdeck
    12 Bread-rooms
         Brot-Lagerraum
 
Regards Karl
 
 
 
T e i l  3 4

Wonderful Karl. The pictures taken at deck level look like there taken on a on full scale model.....
 
Remco

I agree with Remco, the detail that you have put into the beams and everything else is a shame to hide. Excellent work. You blow me away every time I see new updates. Keep the pictures coming.

OK, This is just insane! Somebody help me out here. Please send me a PM if you know of a more skilled craftsman than Karl, because I would really like to see it for myself. The cannon is simply mind blowing.
Dave

Karl,
I am just now discovering your amazing build for the first time. All I can say is, each time I think maybe I have seen it all....each time I think I have seen the absolute ultimate in perfection....when I say to myself "It just don't get better than this".....I then discover an artist so amazing I can hardly believe what I am seeing.
I can't begin to describe how crazy good your work is....no words for it.
Thank you for sharing your extreme talent with us mere mortals.
Dave

Just WOW!
What beautiful work.
Thanks Toni
Dave

Hi Toni:
Just now finding this amazing build. Returning to my shop after a two year break, it just seems like the craft has been taken to a whole new level by artists such as yourself....or I was simply too busy with my own builds to browse around and see the great work of others. Either way, I am really enjoying it now, as never before.
Your joinery skills are superb. I love your work.
Dave

Michiel, as much as I enjoy doing a little carving, I do not think I would take this one on.....even at 1:50 scale. Anxious to see how you pull this off sir. From what I see, you certainly have the talent to do a great job. My hat is off to you sir.
Dave

OK, This is just insane! Somebody help me out here. Please send me a PM if you know of a more skilled craftsman than Karl, because I would really like to see it for myself. The cannon is simply mind blowing.
Dave

Karl,
I am just now discovering your amazing build for the first time. All I can say is, each time I think maybe I have seen it all....each time I think I have seen the absolute ultimate in perfection....when I say to myself "It just don't get better than this".....I then discover an artist so amazing I can hardly believe what I am seeing.
I can't begin to describe how crazy good your work is....no words for it.
Thank you for sharing your extreme talent with us mere mortals.
Dave

Hi Pete:
Not only is your workmanship extremely excellent, and your model is super nice, I'm thinking "What a fun little boat to own!" I think you should consider scaling her up to 1/1 and go for it.

Karl,
I am just now discovering your amazing build for the first time. All I can say is, each time I think maybe I have seen it all....each time I think I have seen the absolute ultimate in perfection....when I say to myself "It just don't get better than this".....I then discover an artist so amazing I can hardly believe what I am seeing.
I can't begin to describe how crazy good your work is....no words for it.
Thank you for sharing your extreme talent with us mere mortals.
Dave

T e i l  4

T e i l   3

I have finally finished the upper deck framing.  The first three photos show the deck before final fairing.  The last two are after everything has been sanded down.  I started with 100 grit and progressively sanded down to 400 grit.  I finished with a razor blade scraper.  There was a slight hump in beam 20 which was corrected with the sanding.
 

 

 

 

 

Toni,

The original shipwrights had the same problem fitting beams into place - even without the knees. Their end clearances were very close and the frames above the decks "tumbled home."
 
I suggest you do what they did if you can - spring the beam by lifting the center while holding the ends down, then rotate it into place. I installed Naiad's beams with knees attached using this method. Thanks to Blaise Olivier's 1737 commentary on English practice. (The French at the time apparently set the beams then raised the clamps under them.)
 
Here's a picture.
 

 
Ed

Because of the server issue I went back and checked all of the photos in the build log.  It was necessary to repost  about a dozen pictures.
 
I have made and installed the hammock battens.  These are pieces of tooth shaped wood that attach to the beams just under the carlings.  Their function is to provide a hook to secure the hammocks.  I first made several strips of wood the correct dimension (2" x 3") and glued them together.  I set the height of the blade on the table saw to the depth of the notch and sawed all of the strips simultaneously.  The distance between the teeth is 12".  The piece was then put into a bottle of isopropanol and the individual pieces separated from each other after several minutes.  The interior and exterior edges were rounded off with files.  The nails attaching the batten to the beam were simulated with an awl highlighted with pencil.  I decided to only place these on the starboard side since I have not yet decided how much decking I will install on the port side.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
I have also finished the upper row of planks for the aft bulkheads.  They now extend to just below the beams.
 

 
 

Druxey and David, thanks.  The only thing I could think of as I finished the deck was...thank god this isn't a frigate!
 
I deferred making any of the items that attach on to the upper deck (except for the fore and main mast partners) until the entire deck was completed.  Now it is time for some small projects which will vastly improve the monotony of the appearance of beams and scantlings.  The first thing made was the capstan step. The shape of the step varied among the Swan class ships.  In TFFM, David shows a three piece rectangular step.  Atalanta has a tear-drop shaped step.  At this point I was still psyched from finishing the deck, so I forgot to take pictures of the step fabrication.  The step is made of three pieces of wood rabbeted together.  The inner piece was 14" thick and the outer pieces were 10" thick.  The edge of the 14" thick wood was highlighted on both sides with archival ink. The top of the step is flat, stands 7" proud of the beam and is parallel to the waterline, not to the deck.  There is a hole in the middle for the capstan post.  The step is secured to the beams and carlings with bolts.
 
 
 

 
 
 

 
The mizzen partner is a simple plank, in contrast to the complex structures of the fore and main partners.  The most difficult part is placing the hole in the correct location because of the rake of the mizzen mast.  I do not plan on masting and rigging Atalanta so I took the location of the opening off the plan rather than make a dummy mast.
 

 

 

When that day comes, may I recommend "Creating lifelike figures in polymer clay" by Katherine Dewey. This book really helped me to get the proportions of faces and figures right. I started making lifelike figures in no time after putting the described concepts in practice. Some tweaking is needed as we work on a much smaller scale, but the theory is still the same.
 
Remco

Sam,
 
Thoroughly enjoy going through your Enterprise build log. As I browse through projects picking up tips, finding a log like this one is like finding a treasure chest.
Your hull is absolutely beautiful.....love the color contrast.
Dave