Landlubber Mike
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Everything posted by Landlubber Mike
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Wow nice display case! Will really set off the model!- 55 replies
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- Scharnhorst
- Trumpeter
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I have a similar MDF tool holder for my plastic models. It allows me to work upstairs in my kitchen and hang out with my family, rather than work in my workshop. Best yet, it's portable, which allows me to move it in and out of the kitchen as needed. Seems like you are looking for a similar solution, so if you think this meets your needs, I'd consider it.
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Cool build Andrew!!
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That came out great Craig! Prisine work on the decals my friend, wow!
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Amazing build as always Gary! Those bunker plates came out fantastic! Thanks for sharing your modeling techniques with us mere mortals.
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I've done the hot water trick (and hair dryer trick) on thinner resin parts and things worked out just fine. My parts again were much much thinner and had a bit of flex to them. Your resin looks a lot harder with little flex, and anyway the hull looks way too thick to get any bends out of it at this point. First question though - do you know if the deck is supposed to be perfectly flat, or is there supposed to be a slight camber to the deck at the bow and stern? That could be why the hull is shaped the way it is. Though, in your pictures in post #44, the top of the hull doesn't seem to have a smooth line - straight or curved - but had what looks like little valleys that don't conform to the general line of the top of the hull. That being said, if the hull is the problem (i.e., the deck is supposed to be perfectly flat), I'd try to sand the middle section down a bit so that the deck fits a little better. I'd then glue down the deck with two-part epoxy. Once cured, I'd glue in plastic card shims, use a two-part epoxy putty like Tamiya's to get all the tiny gaps filled, and then sand everything so that you have a smooth hull. If the deck actually needs to have a camber to it (i.e., the hull is correct), I'd try the hot water technique to get a curve in the deck. Then I would use a strong two-part epoxy to glue down the deck while it is clamped to the hull. Good luck!
- 165 replies
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- new orleans
- iron shipwrights
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On my 1/700 and 1/350 ships, I did the rigging after I was done with the construction, painting, and weathering - i.e., was the last step. Part of my thinking was that I spray a matt clear over the model once the painting and weathering is completed to unify the finish. I wasn't quite sure how the rigging material would react to the clear. Zinnia looks great!
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Law of supply and demand... People use them in other hobbies besides model ship building. With nothing comparable on the market, I can see how these are getting bid up.
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Great work Gary. That engine looks like it could be an award-winning stand-alone model itself.
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Another beauty Scott! CSM does seem to make some really good kits.
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Beautiful aircraft and fantastic model. I still can't get over how you can do everything you are doing in card - really impressive!
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Just catching up with your log now. Really nice job!
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Looking really good Patrick! Not to focus on a small part of your build as everything is amazing, but your work on the ladders is pristine! PE ladders are not easy to do and you aced them.
- 91 replies
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- Curtis Wilbur
- I Love Kit
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Gunboat Philadelphia 1776 by tmj
Landlubber Mike replied to tmj's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
That's going to look fantastic! I agree with you on "painting with wood" - would rather use woods to achieve the colors and tones I want as well. -
Gunboat Philadelphia 1776 by tmj
Landlubber Mike replied to tmj's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Looking forward to following along on this one. I saw the Smithsonian plans years ago, and picked up a set for myself. The plans are incredibly detailed. Can I ask what scale you are building this one in? And what kind of wood are you using? Looks very good! -
Very cool, great start on this! I didn't realize Trumpeter made a kit for this ship. I love the look of the Italian WW2 ships.
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Very cool diorama! Very clever for sure! Thanks for sharing your experience with using epoxy - good to know what to look out for whenever I finish my SIB build.
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Just caught up with your log Alan - great job! Nice models and the diorama is going to be sweet! For a 1/350 ship diorama, you can take a look at my Shimakaze build for how I did the seas. They aren’t rough like yours, so my approach may not be of much help. I love these Flower Class corvettes!
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Looks amazing Alan! Well done!
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Looking really great Glen, wow! That wheel is incredible. Glad the BMF worked!
- 235 replies
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- Banshee II
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Not yet Kevin. All the steps needed to address the warped keel, as well as lining the gunport, burned me out on it and I ended up trying out plastic models. At some point I plan to return to it, but likely will finish my Pegasus first. If you're looking for a nice subject, this kit is a beauty.
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Glen, those paddle wheels and housings are fantastic. Even more impressive at the scale you are building. Nice job man!
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- Banshee II
- Bottle
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