Landlubber Mike

Docmuents (I will update the list during my build):

NMM drawings:
ZAZ4667: Line & inboard profile, decoration of 'Fly' ZAZ4669: Lower & Platform Decks of 'Fly' ZAZ4670: Quarter and Upper deck plan of 'Fly ZAZ4691: Disposition of Frames of 'Cygnet' Books:
David Antscherl, "The Fully Framed Model, HMN Swan Class Sloops 1767-1780", Volume 1 - 4 David Antscherl, "Swan class sheer and profile, scale 1:48", corrected frames Allan Yedlinsky: Scantlings of Royal Navy ships David White: Understanding ship draughts David Antscherl: Understanding Eighten-Century Admirality drafts

Part 1 Reconstruction of the hull lines
 
David Antscherl wrote in his wonderful series about th Swan Class Sloop, that there are a lot of smaller differences between the ships of the class, for example the knee of the head of Fly.
As first decision for my new start I decided not to use the general lines, which David has published. I want to do my own reconstruction. The naval cutter was a first exercise for this project. In January I started with the reconstruction. At the end of February I had a first version of my body plan, which matchs the lines of the historical drawing very well.
 

 

To check the lines I started to build a half model. For the frames I use 3mm birch plywood, it's for a model in 1/32 perhaps a little small, but I've had a bigger batch at home. All space between the frames I fill with poplar plywood. It's easy to shape but stable enough for the purpose.
I glue the drawngs with rubber cement on the ply woord


 
With a sharp knife I mark every 5' line. The picture shows frame 0:
 

 
All bulkheades and the center are cutted out. The hull has a length of around 1m, which is not as big compared with the new 1/200 model kits of the WWII battle ships.
 

 

The Swan Class Sloop and I have as some of you know a longer history. Two years ago I started my build log for the build in 1/48. A few month later I had to stop the build because I got some problems with my eyes. At the beginning of this year I started again. I decided to change the scale of my build to 1/32.
I hope that some of you are intersted in my build and like to follow my log.

So let's start again
 

Hey Mike,
 
Its just like double planking a hull - but in this case you lay your first layer of wales @ 1mm.  Its so much easier to line things up and get a proper run.  Then with the second layer you can use anchor stock planking or whatever joints you wish to simulate.  Dye or paint your wales then proceed with your single planking (no need to mask !) on the rest of the hull and the wale line stays neat and tidy.  Or in your case continue finish planking your hull to the keel.  You then can dye all the way to the waterline (dont worry about masking since you are coppering and you are good to go!)  You can be sloppy here since your copper tiles will be the waterline.  
 
As far as your approach on staining and dyeing - its going to be tricky.  Both have a habit of running where you don't want it post installation of your planks. You can stain/dye the planks off the model but then you will always deal with possible glue spots/runs later or gaps between the planks you will need to fill. Thats why painting those areas or actually using wood the color you want to represent is so much more effective.  

Three cheers for modifications!!! 

Thanks Chris.  Frankly, going with 2mm planks wasn't all that bad.  I had a couple of the pear pieces split on the stem pieces (interestingly, not on the bend itself but at the far end where the plank was straight).  I soon figured out that after soaking, it was good to loosen the wood fibers but bending the planks backward and forward a few times, and then bending to the final configuration.  I had no more issues after that.  All in all, it was a little more work with the 2mm planks, but then I only had to run the planks once.
 
Yeah, the staining is going to be a little tricky.  I might have been better off going with walnut for the dark brown areas from the beginning, but I was scared off by the fact that it tends to be very grainy and more splintery than pear.  I'm going to take my time and do the best I can.  I'm hoping that the 2mm rails will hide any color runs between the brown and blue areas (and frankly, I can probably pre-color the blue planks ahead of time).  The color transition between the brown and black should be fine, as hopefully the brown doesn't bleed onto the black wale (plus, the wale is 2mm, and I can always touch it up with the black again).  For the red area, I'm planning to use redheart so no bleeding issues there to worry about.  The General Finishes stains that I'm planning on using seem to combine stain properties of being a very thin finish with paint properties of coverage and deep color, so I think that should help me.
 
A little ambitious, but so far my modifications are going nicely so I might as well try it out. 

After the the drama of my last posting I decided to switch gears and initiate the first planking.  At the pace I build, I need to go back to the drawing board and teach myself techniques and pour over the many resources offered at this wonderful site. The images show my progress  to date. When the hull is filled in up to the gun deck, I will turn my attention to the deck planking and its fitting out.
 
Thanks for looking in......
 
JP

Well gents, it looks like I need to retract my comments related to the thickness of the walnut stock that the rudder was supplied on. It was indeed adjacent to the supplied stem  on stock that was 7mm thick....sorry to have misled any prospective Le Renommee or Euromodel builders.  The task of tapering the these pieces on multiple axis has turned out to be quite challenging and my struggles will continue, I'm sure........
 
JP
 
 
 
JP

Well, I started working on the wale, and am laying down the first line of planks.  I plan on planking it according to TFFM, so the upper row will be straight planks, and the next two below will be top and butt planks.  I've laid the first three planks down, and have the remaining plank on either side to go.
 

 
 
This doesn't look like much progress, but I've had hours upon hours on getting the line correct.  I'm using 2mm planks for the wale, rather than two rows of 1mm planks as per the kit directions.  I first plotted out the lines in pencil, then ran blue masking tape to outline the lines to give me an idea of how the planking would run.  Easy enough.  Then I started overthinking things.  I worried that in running the planking line using four separate planks, the line wouldn't be a smooth curve but rather would be angular at the joints between two planks.  So, I added a temporary batten on both sides marking the upper boundary of the planking run as in the picture below:
 

 
 
In theory this would have worked great, but after running three planks on either side and confirming the measurements against the plans, I found that I was off a bit in a few places by as much as 1mm!  Argh!  While I was able to pop some of the planks off to refit in earlier rounds, this time was too much and they all started cracking.  So, back to the drawing board.
 
I spent a few hours redrawing the wale and rail lines.  Interestingly, my original lines had been off for some reason even though I checked and rechecked it numerous times.  I think my new lines are much more accurate.  From there, I soaked and pre-fit planks as I went along, and after they dried, I glued them using pins and sometimes just my fingers to keep them on the line.  Much better results this time around.
 
Couple of things that helped when it came to the first plank at the stem.  First, I widened the rabbet for the wale at the stem to 2mm using some micro gouges.  The rabbet really helps to anchor that first plank at the stem.  Next, I used the jig in the picture below that I got from Micro Mark a while back.  First time I used it, but after eyeballing the general curve and setting the pins, it did a nice job pre-bending the wet 2mm pear planks.  After the planks dried, I soaked them in hot water again and pinned them to the model in the right position.  Once dry, I glued with white glue.  The other planks didn't need to spend any time in that jig thankfully.
 

Finishing the wale is going to be tricky.  The kit appears to have left off the quarter piece that extends just below the taffrail into the wale.  So, what you end up with if you follow the kit is the taffrail just hanging out to the sides of the ship.  The kit supplies you with a photo etch decorative piece that flows where the quarter piece would normally be, but I'm not sure how one is supposed to add it if it lays on the second planking with the bottom of it on the top of the wale (essentially, bumping up an extra mm to go onto the wale).  Here is a picture, I think from BE's log, that shows what I mean about the taffrail just hanging out there:
 

 
 
Here are some pics from the NMM plans showing what I think are quarter pieces:
 

 

 
 
I think Blue Ensign spotted this on his build, and added quarter pieces to his Pegasus.  I'm going to do the same.  I think it would not only add accuracy to the model, but aesthetically, it would essentially round off the taffrail in a much nicer way than just having square ends like the kit.  So, I'll probably take a piece of pear and try and carve it into the correct shape.  BE has a detailed section on his build log on putting together the quarter piece.
 
I've also been taking a look at the quarter badges.  While they look nice, I'm thinking of making them a little more three dimensional by making a sorta bow window look to them.  Realworkingsailor took that approach on his Pegasus to really nice effect, and it seems like some other modelers have taken a similar route as well. 
 

Well, I started working on the wale, and am laying down the first line of planks.  I plan on planking it according to TFFM, so the upper row will be straight planks, and the next two below will be top and butt planks.  I've laid the first three planks down, and have the remaining plank on either side to go.
 

 
 
This doesn't look like much progress, but I've had hours upon hours on getting the line correct.  I'm using 2mm planks for the wale, rather than two rows of 1mm planks as per the kit directions.  I first plotted out the lines in pencil, then ran blue masking tape to outline the lines to give me an idea of how the planking would run.  Easy enough.  Then I started overthinking things.  I worried that in running the planking line using four separate planks, the line wouldn't be a smooth curve but rather would be angular at the joints between two planks.  So, I added a temporary batten on both sides marking the upper boundary of the planking run as in the picture below:
 

 
 
In theory this would have worked great, but after running three planks on either side and confirming the measurements against the plans, I found that I was off a bit in a few places by as much as 1mm!  Argh!  While I was able to pop some of the planks off to refit in earlier rounds, this time was too much and they all started cracking.  So, back to the drawing board.
 
I spent a few hours redrawing the wale and rail lines.  Interestingly, my original lines had been off for some reason even though I checked and rechecked it numerous times.  I think my new lines are much more accurate.  From there, I soaked and pre-fit planks as I went along, and after they dried, I glued them using pins and sometimes just my fingers to keep them on the line.  Much better results this time around.
 
Couple of things that helped when it came to the first plank at the stem.  First, I widened the rabbet for the wale at the stem to 2mm using some micro gouges.  The rabbet really helps to anchor that first plank at the stem.  Next, I used the jig in the picture below that I got from Micro Mark a while back.  First time I used it, but after eyeballing the general curve and setting the pins, it did a nice job pre-bending the wet 2mm pear planks.  After the planks dried, I soaked them in hot water again and pinned them to the model in the right position.  Once dry, I glued with white glue.  The other planks didn't need to spend any time in that jig thankfully.
 

Hi Martin, really nice work, things are coming along nicely.
 
Not sure what to tell you on the sills.  They are inset a bit from the outside from what I understand.  I forget if the bulwark planking covers them up from the inside though.
 
On the pictures, light plays a huge effect.  I bought a point and shoot camera with a much bigger light sensor, and my pictures are a lot clearer.  There are some basic ways you can touch up the photos as well.  I usually increase the exposure level a bit for a brighter picture, and sometimes tweak the sharpness as well to bring out the fine details.

Hi Brian
 
I tried a small window some months back and it is still on the back.
 
All I did was sand the back down to get rid of any surface film so it is nice and bright finish.
 
Sanding also puts scratch marks on the surface so the liquid glass has something to key to.
 
Denis.

Hi All
 
Just fitted the main deck gratings .
 
I did think about cutting the ends off but decided against it.
But looking at the photos I wish I had now as I left plenty of deck planking left on to support them.
 
Denis.

Ed,
 
I just re-read your books on a vacation, and came away yet again with many good ideas for tools, construction methods, etc. Thanks again for a remarkable resource!
 
Mark

Just a quick update:  most of the upper planking is now in effect complete.  It goes much faster than the lower planking, since the hitherto hated plywood gunport strip provides a solid base to plank onto, and it's not as geometriclly complicated as a curved hull.
 
After making a few rough calculations, and working out just a rudimentary chart, I figured that the usual 5/32" wide planks used on the hull wouldn't work out up here, creating issues with the vertical spacing of the ports, and the overall space of the bulwarks.  So I cut a bunch of my 5/32 strips down to 1/4" and they seemed to work well, with a few exceptions.  For the tapers going up to the ports, I had to rely on wider stock, of course, and then shape it with chisels.
 
First a general broadside view of port:
 
                                         
 
(All views are of the portside, because the starboard isn't quite done.)
 
And here's a shot of the bow:
 
                                          
 
Midships:
 
                                          
 
FFM has a fancy hooked scarph joint on the top row here.  The butting pattern shown in FFM seems to have continuous planks in places that didn't seem to work out; the window for the Captain's Cabin created an issue as well.  So what I'm leading to is that I needed a butt in the second row (actually FFM doesn't have this row), so I put in a hooked scarph there as well.  Maybe it's a bit too much -- more in the roccoco mode than the baroque which would have governed the architecture of these beautiful ships, but I bowed to exigency.
 
Finally here's the Quarterdeck:
 
                                           
 
Blue Ensign notes that the two aft-most ports are smaller than the others, and I heeded his comment here, though I do think that last one does need just a wee bit more opening.
 
There's quite a bit of trimming to do, but I'm leaving that till I plank the inside so I can trim both in & outer planks simultaneously.
 
Here's a question:  should I line the ports with their sills before I lay the inside planking?  I'm thinking that since they need to be stained red, I could save myself some heartache, and since everyone who's done that step has hinted that it tends to lead to a degree of tooth-grinding I'm thinking that I could set them in and plank up to them.
 
Oh, and if anyone has suggestions on how I can get my pictures clearer, I'd appreciate. Criminey, I don't think my hands rattle so much that every shot has to be blurry, but I just can't get them as clear as I see on other logs.
 
Cheers,
 
Martin
 

Finishing the wale is going to be tricky.  The kit appears to have left off the quarter piece that extends just below the taffrail into the wale.  So, what you end up with if you follow the kit is the taffrail just hanging out to the sides of the ship.  The kit supplies you with a photo etch decorative piece that flows where the quarter piece would normally be, but I'm not sure how one is supposed to add it if it lays on the second planking with the bottom of it on the top of the wale (essentially, bumping up an extra mm to go onto the wale).  Here is a picture, I think from BE's log, that shows what I mean about the taffrail just hanging out there:
 

 
 
Here are some pics from the NMM plans showing what I think are quarter pieces:
 

 

 
 
I think Blue Ensign spotted this on his build, and added quarter pieces to his Pegasus.  I'm going to do the same.  I think it would not only add accuracy to the model, but aesthetically, it would essentially round off the taffrail in a much nicer way than just having square ends like the kit.  So, I'll probably take a piece of pear and try and carve it into the correct shape.  BE has a detailed section on his build log on putting together the quarter piece.
 
I've also been taking a look at the quarter badges.  While they look nice, I'm thinking of making them a little more three dimensional by making a sorta bow window look to them.  Realworkingsailor took that approach on his Pegasus to really nice effect, and it seems like some other modelers have taken a similar route as well. 
 

Well, I started working on the wale, and am laying down the first line of planks.  I plan on planking it according to TFFM, so the upper row will be straight planks, and the next two below will be top and butt planks.  I've laid the first three planks down, and have the remaining plank on either side to go.
 

 
 
This doesn't look like much progress, but I've had hours upon hours on getting the line correct.  I'm using 2mm planks for the wale, rather than two rows of 1mm planks as per the kit directions.  I first plotted out the lines in pencil, then ran blue masking tape to outline the lines to give me an idea of how the planking would run.  Easy enough.  Then I started overthinking things.  I worried that in running the planking line using four separate planks, the line wouldn't be a smooth curve but rather would be angular at the joints between two planks.  So, I added a temporary batten on both sides marking the upper boundary of the planking run as in the picture below:
 

 
 
In theory this would have worked great, but after running three planks on either side and confirming the measurements against the plans, I found that I was off a bit in a few places by as much as 1mm!  Argh!  While I was able to pop some of the planks off to refit in earlier rounds, this time was too much and they all started cracking.  So, back to the drawing board.
 
I spent a few hours redrawing the wale and rail lines.  Interestingly, my original lines had been off for some reason even though I checked and rechecked it numerous times.  I think my new lines are much more accurate.  From there, I soaked and pre-fit planks as I went along, and after they dried, I glued them using pins and sometimes just my fingers to keep them on the line.  Much better results this time around.
 
Couple of things that helped when it came to the first plank at the stem.  First, I widened the rabbet for the wale at the stem to 2mm using some micro gouges.  The rabbet really helps to anchor that first plank at the stem.  Next, I used the jig in the picture below that I got from Micro Mark a while back.  First time I used it, but after eyeballing the general curve and setting the pins, it did a nice job pre-bending the wet 2mm pear planks.  After the planks dried, I soaked them in hot water again and pinned them to the model in the right position.  Once dry, I glued with white glue.  The other planks didn't need to spend any time in that jig thankfully.
 

Finally, a long overdue update! I started out well with photos of each step and then as life got busy the photos fell by the way. The last few pictures are of each completed piece without process pictures. 
 
I experimented with a few different materials for the stern lanterns, but finally settled on card. The lanterns could not be solid because of the fiber-optics that I had to feed up through the tiny brass tubing and into the lanterns. This was a very tricky process due to the tight fit and bends. I'll try to add some pictures in the next day or so with the lanterns "lit".
 

 

 

 

 
Some more items completed.
 

 

 

 
And placed on deck. I also completed the first of three sets of spiral staircases.
 

 
I also managed to make and place some of the decorative pieces and dolphins.
 

 
Last, but not least, a shot of the stern so far and profile. 
 

Thanks Patrick!
 
I am continuing ...

At that moment I did not know how I'm going to do a sail, so I have prepared the cloth for the sail.

Another of my small projects. I recently have seen the photo of the model boat, which was interesting me.
 

 
I have wrote to the author of the model and he told me that this boat is a typical for Sardinia the southern Mediterranean area Andalucia.
 
A couple of weeks ago I started building the model of this boats in a bottle.
 
Best Regards!
Igor.

Dude this is why I told you to laminate the Wales (smile)

Mike,
 
Great progress and construction skills on the Pegasus. The pearwood really is a lovely colour for ship models.
 
Have a great 4th.