jburchfield1@wowway.com

I don't comment much, cause I'm so new, but I gotta say "LOVE the color of that bamboo".

This is really amazing work.  Don't always hit the like button or comment, but am following avidly.  Maybe in another 25 years I can hope to come close.

I apologize if you have already answered this elsewhere but there are a lot of pages here......

Do you have experience as a finish carpenter or is this skill just from years of experience? 

Well, don't know if it's a good one, but got the second book for my library today.  Ship Modeling from Scratch by Edwin B. Leaf.

On the model front, got the gaff ready (FINALLY), the boom is ready, the bowsprit is mounted, and after I complete the mast bands, I'm ready to step the mast and start all that rigging.

Sorry Chuck, never even thought to look at that one.

Or you can buy various gauges of blunt tip needles from Amazon.

Has anyone tried these?

The instructions say that the shape of the traveler ring is on the plans but I can find it nowhere.

Did everybody just "eyeball it" from the instructions or what?

I assume that you guys are aware of carpenter shims (used for "wedging") in door/window installations, as well as other uses.

While too large as sold they could be adjusted as to size and you can pick them up in hardware/home improvement stores anywhere for about a buck a dozen.

Don't mean this to sound obnoxious or condescending just thought I'd mention it.

looking good dude!  

I understand that "over-thinking" issue.  It's my worst enemy!

Looks eggscellent to me.  

French polishing is a wood finishing technique that results in a very high gloss surface, with a deep colour and chatoyancy. French polishing consists of applying many thin coats of shellac dissolved in alcohol using a rubbing pad lubricated with oil. The rubbing pad is made of absorbent cotton or wool cloth wadding inside a square piece of fabric (usually soft cotton cloth) and is commonly referred to as a fad,[1] also called a rubber,[2] tampon,[2] or muñeca, Spanish for "rag doll".[3]

"French polish" is a process, not a material. The main material is shellac, although there are several other shellac-based finishes, not all of which class as French polishing.

The finish is considered by many to be a beautiful way to finish highly figured wood, but it is also recognised to be fragile. It is softer than modern varnishes and lacquers and is particularly sensitive to spills of water or alcohol, which often produce white cloudy marks. However, it is also simpler to repair than a damaged varnish finish, as patch repairs to French polish may be easily blended into an existing finish.

Tom

Right, so polyurethane it is.

Thanks Keith, got the parts list, now to read some build logs.  

The Model Expo 1/16 scale version of the Bounty Launch is gonna be my second build and I'm gonna try upgrading at least some of the wood to hard maple as a stepping stone to boxwood.  

Haven't ordered the kit just yet, but I want to order the replacement wood.

Not sure what sizes to order but I thought maybe somebody has a copy of the parts list(s) I could get or maybe just the part concerning the planking and decking??

Not sure if that violates any copyrights but just a scan and post would be very helpful if possible.

TKS for the kind words guys.

It's acceptable for a first attempt, but will do things differently for the next one.

Currently trying (and trying and trying and trying) to make those teeny, tiny, did I say tiny? jaws for the gaff.  Can't seem to keep from breaking them.

Chuck - Thanks much for the link.  That looks good and also it's 1/16" which gives me plenty of sanding room!      Got it bookmarked so I can pre-order when the time comes.

Floyd - Thanks for the offer BUT it's a sales tax issue for him and you know how the government gets when they don't get their share.   Don't want to create trouble for anybody. 

Well, here's the pics I promised.  In real life things are not as "shiny" as they appear in these pictures.

Interior, everything done except tiller and and "arms" for the windlass......

Outer hull...............

Floyd - I just got notice from Model Expo that my 4 packages of 1/32" x 1/8" x 24" basswood have shipped.  Not sure what size is used for the Launch, but should be close and I still have about 25 12" strips from buying the Longboat twice.

I want to try boxwood but can't get it from Hobby Mill (because I live in Ohio as well) and I'm still not sure how to go about it at the Lumberyard (haven't figured out what the process is and how to make sure I'm ordering the right thing) but planning on getting "better" wood when I start my first larger ship.

Maybe it's my tri-focals but I see 9 belaying pins on that rack??

Well, got the bow sprint mounted today.  Have completed shaping the boom and gaff, but have to re-do the main mast.  Seems I can't drill a perfectly vertical hole consistently.  Pictures to follow.

I have learned the following important things while working on this longboat...

1.  I love this craft/hobby without reservation.

2.  The most important thing (in my opinion) is accurate measurements (down to 1/64").

3.  Patience and perseverance are critical.

I'm changing my next build to the Bounty Launch so that I can get more experience planking and proper measuring (on a less expensive model) before I move to larger craft.

K, for this dummy,

What is "french polished"??

Thanks for the quick response.  Back to the shipyard.

What size drill bit did you guys use for the sheaves in the mast?

Toni, that "one try" thing is why I don't use contact cement anymore.  Hands are a little too shaky now.

Did it with CA (gap filling) and seemed to work fine.

Got the rudder on today and that completes everything ('cept the tiller and windlass handles which will be the very last 2 things to go on.

Sorry no pics, I'll get some up tomorrow.

Got my "lathe" set up so I can start tapering the masts, etc.  I'm hoping the rigging will be just as much fun (though frustrating at times) as the rest has been. 

I agree with Casey, only I use an old 1/4" brush to apply the glue and spread it out.  I also only glue on one surface - not both.

I also use Titebond2 which grips really fast but still leaves time for positioning.

Got everything done up to the rudder.

Have not yet purchased the materials/torch for silver soldering what would be the second best method......

Regular CA, Extra Thin CA, or epoxy to attach the "pins" to the gudgeon?

Even closeup you can't even tell it was broken!

Amazing work!

So that's what the Longboat is supposed to look like after it's planked!  

Well, maybe next time.