Capt.Bob

Roger and Bob, thanks for the additional information on the book.  I will pursue it further.  We are indeed indebted to Google for their work in scanning and putting online many historical technical works of interest to model builders.  As I write this I am wading through several on 19th century rigging.  
 
Bob, it is true that on some frames the at both ends of the square framed sections where there is maximum frame bevel.  In fact,you should find that the point where the bolts approach either the inner or outer edges of the frames is the point where the cant frames begin, allowing bolts to be driven "normal" - i.e. at right angles to the face of the frame - while not penetrating the outer or inner edges.  Although bolts in these last square half frames are very close to one edge, due to the bevel, they go through the central section of the piece and usually emerge at the opposite (inner or outer) edge on the mating frame.  
 
If this sounds confusing, it is.  The alternatives are to either start the cant frames much closer to midship or to drive bolts at an angle.  The first would weaken the hull significantly.  The latter choice is less clear.  Some sources indicate that bolts were always - or at least preferred to be - driven normal.  However, I found some pictorial evidence (and posted the picture earlier ) of bolt holes being driven at an angle.  This was taken in the early 20th century and a pneumatic drill was being used.  I kept all the bolts normal because I concluded this was the practice at the time (1850's).  Also, and very important to the model, normal holes were essential in the pin-indexed process I adopted for fabricating frames.
 
Keep in mind that these bolts were mainly used to keep the frames connected for erection.  The real strength that held these together came later when the inboard and outboard planking was secured by either structural bolts and or treenails.  At this point I believe the iron bolts through the frames became superfluous.
 
On the frame patterns the holes were placed very carefully on these beveled sections and I found in building the model that none broke through the edges, but as you say, at the ends of the square framed areas, they get very close.
 
I will add the typo you noted on frame Ra to the list.
 
Ed

Ed,
Question about pin (iron pin) locations.  Some of the pin locations in the 5th futtocks of the last few forward square frames actually exceed the outer edge of the opposite face,  (starting about P).  I wouldn't imagine a shipwright would place the 1" iron bars that close to an outer edge.  Should they be more closely centered ?  Also, some of the pin holes are located very close to the end of some futtocks. Many are closer than the thickness of the futtock.  Are those really scale locations?
 
While I'm here, Pattern Ra has all the segments marked Rf.
 
Just about finished with all the square frames.  Can't wait to get to something different.
Bob

Ed,
There's a paperback copy on Amazon from $22.16.
Bob

Hi Ed,
Here are a few items for the revision file.
1. Page 57 First paragraph.  Is: "...and pushed through the hole; See Figure 5-26..."  Should be: "See Figure 5-27"
2. Pattern Af: No siding reference.  Missing 2 holes in Floor (both f & a) 
3. Pattern Aa: 5th Futtocks "110"  Should that be 11 or 10?
4. Pattern 27a: Missing top hole in 5th Futtock
5. Pattern Ea: No parting line in the floor timber
6. Patterns Ea/f, Fa/f, Ga/f, Hf, Jf : No siding or futtock data
 
Bob

Hi Ed,
Here are a few items for the revision file.
1. Page 57 First paragraph.  Is: "...and pushed through the hole; See Figure 5-26..."  Should be: "See Figure 5-27"
2. Pattern Af: No siding reference.  Missing 2 holes in Floor (both f & a) 
3. Pattern Aa: 5th Futtocks "110"  Should that be 11 or 10?
4. Pattern 27a: Missing top hole in 5th Futtock
5. Pattern Ea: No parting line in the floor timber
6. Patterns Ea/f, Fa/f, Ga/f, Hf, Jf : No siding or futtock data
 
Bob

Hi Ed,
Here are a few items for the revision file.
1. Page 57 First paragraph.  Is: "...and pushed through the hole; See Figure 5-26..."  Should be: "See Figure 5-27"
2. Pattern Af: No siding reference.  Missing 2 holes in Floor (both f & a) 
3. Pattern Aa: 5th Futtocks "110"  Should that be 11 or 10?
4. Pattern 27a: Missing top hole in 5th Futtock
5. Pattern Ea: No parting line in the floor timber
6. Patterns Ea/f, Fa/f, Ga/f, Hf, Jf : No siding or futtock data
 
Bob

Hi Ed,
Here are a few items for the revision file.
1. Page 57 First paragraph.  Is: "...and pushed through the hole; See Figure 5-26..."  Should be: "See Figure 5-27"
2. Pattern Af: No siding reference.  Missing 2 holes in Floor (both f & a) 
3. Pattern Aa: 5th Futtocks "110"  Should that be 11 or 10?
4. Pattern 27a: Missing top hole in 5th Futtock
5. Pattern Ea: No parting line in the floor timber
6. Patterns Ea/f, Fa/f, Ga/f, Hf, Jf : No siding or futtock data
 
Bob

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 144 – Monkey Rail 2
 
Happy Valentines Day, everyone.
 
After making and polishing the rail stanchions holes were measured out and drilled in the center of the main rail and in most cases down into the toptimbers below.  The stanchions were then inserted into the holes for a depth check.  A single rail section for each side was then curved to match the poop profile.  The stanchions were then removed from their holes and threaded on to the rail in order.  The next picture shows the next step – epoxy gluing the stanchions into their holes.
 

 
The end of the rail was first inserted into the inverted U bracket at the stern.  All of the stanchions were then inserted into their holes, then lifted for gluing starting at the stern.  The clamps in the above picture are lightly pressing the stanchions down where needed until the epoxy sets.  The next picture shows the last stanchion on the starboard side being glued. 
 

 
The rail was crimped in the aft stanchion then touched with a drop of CA glue.  The others are free to move along the rail at this stage.  The forward end of the rail was bent to the athwartship direction at the foremost stanchion as shown in the next picture.
 

 
The stanchions along the breast beam were then glued into place with the rails inserted.  In the picture above, the glue has dried and a section of stair rail is being fitted into the lower ball on one of the stanchions at the top of the stair.  The next picture shows the stanchions loosely in place on the port side.
 

 
In this picture the port rail has been curved to shape and is ready for installation.  The last two pictures show the completed monkey rail.
 

 

 
This last picture was taken before final straightening of the stanchions on the near side.  Once everything was adjusted the top balls were crimped with pliers to hold them in place.  The rail is, of course, quite exposed and susceptible to damage by careless leaning or bumping.  I am trying to sensitize myself to this new problem.  The days of turning the model over and shaking it to remove debris are over.
 
 
Ed

I've been learning to make my own frames, which require sanding on the inside curve.  I have some sanding drums for my drill press, but they cause a lot of vibrations due to the way the sandpaper is mounted on the drums.
 
I have some 1 inch sanding drums that can be used on a Foredom tool and which take sanding sleeves rather than sandpaper sheets, so I decided to try using these on my milling machine rather than the drill press.  I made a smaller version of the dust-collecting box that I use on the drill press, and set it up so that it would clamp on the x table of the mill using cap screws and t-nuts.  The variable speed on the mill is very useful in getting the right speed.  I suppose it's not quite as good as a real spindle sander, but it cost nothing to make (I already had the required parts and wood) and serves my purposes well.
 
                   
 
                   

Welcome, Bob! I agree with You, setting up sometimes takes more time than milling. But the quality justifies the cost. Yes, I'm bringing into operation this machine has already produced several critical parts. The result pleased me! Lake Onego is really great, but in Karelia about 40,000 lakes, and they are all very beautiful! ... If the person has a hobby - life is interesting in any point of planet Earth! Now developing a mount for the spindle of a milling machine. I have postponed this task for a while.

HI Aviaamator,
How is your new model milling machine coming?  Anything new?
Did you rebuild the lath in the picture?  What is the story?
 
How is life in Petrozavodsk?  I took a tour of your city on Google Earth. There are many photos of the city and the lake.  Lake Onega must be very nice in the summer time, but lots of photos of ice in the winter.   Also, I read some history about Peter The Great and the original iron foundry that started the city in 1703.
 
I have only practiced a few things on my new milling machine.  Milling is easy,  Setup is everything!!
 
Bob 

HI Aviaamator,
How is your new model milling machine coming?  Anything new?
Did you rebuild the lath in the picture?  What is the story?
 
How is life in Petrozavodsk?  I took a tour of your city on Google Earth. There are many photos of the city and the lake.  Lake Onega must be very nice in the summer time, but lots of photos of ice in the winter.   Also, I read some history about Peter The Great and the original iron foundry that started the city in 1703.
 
I have only practiced a few things on my new milling machine.  Milling is easy,  Setup is everything!!
 
Bob 

HI Aviaamator,
How is your new model milling machine coming?  Anything new?
Did you rebuild the lath in the picture?  What is the story?
 
How is life in Petrozavodsk?  I took a tour of your city on Google Earth. There are many photos of the city and the lake.  Lake Onega must be very nice in the summer time, but lots of photos of ice in the winter.   Also, I read some history about Peter The Great and the original iron foundry that started the city in 1703.
 
I have only practiced a few things on my new milling machine.  Milling is easy,  Setup is everything!!
 
Bob 

Returned to the life of another lathe....

Mark, Ian, OA, Frank, Jerry, & Avia...
 
Gentlemen, thank you.  All great ideas.  I shared Mark's anxiety about spending money on things that seem important, but never get used.  I am going to use the mill primarily for ship modeling, which means mostly hardwood &, brass.  Aviaamator, nice job with your homemade mill.  I'm sure I'll have more questions once I spend some time playing with it.
 
Take care, Bob

Hi Mark,
Well, lets see:
1. (84634) 6 piece HSS end mill set 3/8 Inch Shank, Center cut, 4 flute
2. (82678) 3 piece Fly Cutter Set
3. (84700) ER 25 Collet Set
4. (83952) Power Feed Control Box
5. (82578) 42 Piece Clamping Set
6. (83383) Two-Way Milling Machine Vise
Total =$599.20
 
Bob

To all:
Just destroyed my budget and bought myself a MicroMark milling machine.  The mass destruction came from accessories.  A rotary table had me really confused about applications.  I held off to wait for fiscal recovery and to investigate worthwhile applications.  The bank will undoubtedly be sending me a Christmas card with the appreciation of their stockholders.  Also, any other accessories that people have found useful.
 
Bob

Richard, unfortunately it is difficult to make an accurate prediction on the next volume.  I believe it will be no less than two years considering the amount of modeling needed plus the time to write and produce the book.  The publication date will also be subject to the Seawatch publishing schedule.  I can tell you that both Seawatch and I want to get the book out as soon as we can.
 
Ed

Ed,
Thanks,  Ordered a life time supply, which really isn't that much.
 
After reading your section on paring the fetlocks down, I tried using the small Dremel router table.  Since the amount of material to be removed is so small, it is very difficult to control the depth of cut.  With the router table accurate cut depth is easy to establish and maintain.
A little paring to square off the ends and you're done.
 
Bob

Ed,
Thanks,  Ordered a life time supply, which really isn't that much.
 
After reading your section on paring the fetlocks down, I tried using the small Dremel router table.  Since the amount of material to be removed is so small, it is very difficult to control the depth of cut.  With the router table accurate cut depth is easy to establish and maintain.
A little paring to square off the ends and you're done.
 
Bob

Ed,
Thanks,  Ordered a life time supply, which really isn't that much.
 
After reading your section on paring the fetlocks down, I tried using the small Dremel router table.  Since the amount of material to be removed is so small, it is very difficult to control the depth of cut.  With the router table accurate cut depth is easy to establish and maintain.
A little paring to square off the ends and you're done.
 
Bob

Ed,
Thanks,  Ordered a life time supply, which really isn't that much.
 
After reading your section on paring the fetlocks down, I tried using the small Dremel router table.  Since the amount of material to be removed is so small, it is very difficult to control the depth of cut.  With the router table accurate cut depth is easy to establish and maintain.
A little paring to square off the ends and you're done.
 
Bob

Ed,
Thanks,  Ordered a life time supply, which really isn't that much.
 
After reading your section on paring the fetlocks down, I tried using the small Dremel router table.  Since the amount of material to be removed is so small, it is very difficult to control the depth of cut.  With the router table accurate cut depth is easy to establish and maintain.
A little paring to square off the ends and you're done.
 
Bob

Ed,
Thanks,  Ordered a life time supply, which really isn't that much.
 
After reading your section on paring the fetlocks down, I tried using the small Dremel router table.  Since the amount of material to be removed is so small, it is very difficult to control the depth of cut.  With the router table accurate cut depth is easy to establish and maintain.
A little paring to square off the ends and you're done.
 
Bob

Hi Ed,
 
Getting ready to add the iron bars to the fetlocks, but can't find any black mono that thick.  I've been to all the fishing shops but no one has anything close.
Point me in the right direction Obi Wan.  The Force is with you.
 
Bob