bluenose2
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Amati Loom-a-line worth using? (edited by admin)
bluenose2 replied to bluenose2's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
Rats!! Thought it would be great. Well another tool for the crap archive. -
Hello Les here. I jusr purchased the Amati Loom-a-line rigging jig. Seemed a good idea at the time. Has anyone used this thing and is it any good. I don't want to start using up my Syren rigging and find out it's, meh!
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Hello Les here. If you would like a book that addresses this issue. Please purchase Frank Mastini's Ship Modeling Simplified. ISBN 0071558675. It has a great walk through on assembling bulkhead on keel hulls. The take away on this is that if this assembly is any way warped it could translate into build issues later. The last thing you would want is a hull that is slightly warped.
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Hello Les calling back. This is a case of six of one or half a dozen of the other. CA vs other 24 hr adhesives. Rigging is always a stressful time in any project. So much work in such a confined space. Whats not to like! When I screw up my courage and go for it I want to carry through to the end as quickly as possible. It's not that I don't like rigging as it I get satisfaction from this part of the build, as it's just as important to get this right as the hull and all the other goodies that make your ship, boat or whatever. If you can wait overnight good, if you need to power through great. Sorry for the vent. Do what works for you.
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Hello Les here. This is news to me, as I would like to have something on hand besides CA. My only concern would be the long term holding power of this adhesive. Having to go back and tighten things would be very bad. Best to go to their web site, contact and ask some questions. Let me know as I am interested.
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Hello Les here. Here's what I did with my Mamoli H.M.S. Beagle. Go to Google and type in Italian to English translation. You just type in the Italian word you need translated and 90% of the time voila. My next piece of advice is to purchase Ship Modeling Simplified by Frank Mastini. I can't emphasize how good this book is for beginners or those still cutting their teeth on this hobby. In the back it has a great glossary of Italian translations, really great stuff. ISBN 0071558675. Call McGraw - Hill 1-800-262-4729.
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Prepare PE for painting
bluenose2 replied to cog's topic in Metal Work, Soldering and Metal Fittings
Hello Les here. Here's what I do. Before you detach any parts from the sheet I use a fine grit foam backed sanding paper available from any good paint store. Scuff it up lightly both sides.Then you can attach and prime or paint. No vinegar or anything else required. -
Hello Les here. I use rifflers for rough shaping. You can purchase them online from corradishop.com. They have several selections for the wood worker or sculptor. Second is from, leevalley.com. Item # 62w28.20. As with cog I will pre shape a stick of wood then wrap it with flexi grit sand paper.
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Hi Les calling back. So you can see what non traditional materials can do. I purchased the book Ship Models, The Thomson collection from the Art Gallery of Ontario. If you are remotely interested in this hobby you will find the section of photographs of prisoner of war models by French naval prisoners during the Napoleonic war to be captivating at best. They made sailing ships of beef bones, human hair and straw. Amazing stuff. I could download some pics if anyone is interested so you can see for yourself.
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Hello Les here. Interesting case study. I have been a scratch builder for years. When I couldn't get a kit or supplier supplied part, I kit bashed my own. When painted who knows. As a test for what you can do with a material, good stuff. However with what you can purchase from the many suppliers now, I buy when I can and make when I can't. I have been building for 54 years. I recently purchased some cannons and ships boats on line and was so happy with the quality as apposed to the kit supplied white metal parts. However if you can spin a gun or whatever go for it. This is what makes a hobby great. People who take non traditional materials and make them work. Keep calm and carry on.
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planking repairs
bluenose2 replied to bluenose2's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Hi Duffer. Thank you for the advice. My issue is this. Because this boat is a barrel back there is no clean break to mask out for respray without build up on the tape out. Thats going to create issues with the sprayed thickness transition. Not like an automobile where you have crown lines to make the break for repairs. I have buffed out many canopies for aircraft withe the Novus system and dipped with Future for a clear see through finish. My concern is how to polish out the repair to make it seamless. Thnx Les. -
Airbrush
bluenose2 replied to Mike Dowling's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
Hello Mike, Les here. Here is my two farthings worth. I have a Paasche VL double action airbrush I have used for years. I know it is a tank, and there are much better units but it is what I am comfortable with. The selection now can be overwhelming. My advise is to purchase a mid price range brush. It will do most of what higher end units will do at less cost. When proficient go for the gold. Any airbrush can lay down a great flat coat. Think armor or aircraft. Gloss paints are the bain of any painter. I know, I spray kitchen cabinets for a living. As to a good compressor. I used a Devilbiss unit for years. Sturdy but would wake the dead when it kicked in. A flooring installer friend of mine suggested I purchase a Makita model AC001 compressor. Super quiet and less than the compressors you see in art stores dedicated for air brushing. So far so good. -
planking repairs
bluenose2 replied to bluenose2's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Hello druxey. Les here. The hull is mahogany and was finished with a rattle can of Varathane then polished out. A hair line crack has developed between two of the planks along the hull on one side. The wood was stable old growth mahogany that I replaced because the kit supplied material was way too porous for the scale. I purchased two quarts of the correct stain that is used for Chris Craft boats. The thought of stripping this kit down and refinishing is giving me the dry heaves. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thnx Les. -
Steam Bending
bluenose2 replied to Julie Mo's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Les here. You bet hornet. The war department got upset when I sloshed water all over the upper deck. Have added a drain so no more lashes. At least for this one. -
Steam Bending
bluenose2 replied to Julie Mo's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Hello Les here. I agree with jbshan. For those of you who don't want to build a steamer unit, here's what I did. I purchased a 4 foot piece of plumbing pipe available at any home or plumbing store. I ripped it in half length ways to create a half pipe. Purchase 2, 4" end caps and glue on. Now you can fill with boiling water or whatever witches brew you can come up with to soak your planking. Note the harder the wood the longer the soaking time. This is when you can form the planks into any jigs you have made. Be aware that wood will shrink when drying. Hope this helps. -
Hello Les here. I completed a Dumas barrel back runabout boat 2 years ago. I thought I did my best to glue up all the planking before doing the high gloss finish. However the planking has developed a crack between one of the planks. Does anyone have any advise on how to repair this issue? Keeping in mind this a finished model. Any help would be of great help. Thnx Les.
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aluminum planking clamps
bluenose2 replied to umeckt's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Hello Les here. I have a bunch of these style clamps. But as seventynet says they are tough on the fingers and I find them difficult to get good purchase into the hard lazer cut bulkheads. I found some hull planking clamps from Model Shipways MX103/104. These are easy to use and don't damage have the potential to damage the wood. Oh you have to assemble them, so a good Sunday, Monday night football game project. -
Tools and Supplies for My "Shipyard"
bluenose2 replied to daveward's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Hello Les here. I agree with Dave. I use a lighted headband but I still use a lighted source for additional lighting. When you get old you can't get enough light. Sounds like you have enough tools to do the job. I have suffered from tool envy and have over bought on occasion. A good quality bench vise and miter box to clamp into it has been indespensable. You'll soon find out what will be your best equipment. Don't scrimp on quality. Good tools will last a lifetime. -
Model rescue
bluenose2 replied to GrantGoodale's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
Hello Grant. Les here. Nice pics. I am fortunate that I have the space so I could build a large spray booth vented to the outside. I am currently building the 1/72 scale RCN Flower Class Corvette Snowberry. I built a larger than normal lit spray booth to accomodate this model. On very large jobs I use my Paasche double action with the #5 tip for this purpose. By the way I still hand brush some smaller items when I don't want to fire up and clean an airbrush. Carry on. -
Model rescue
bluenose2 replied to GrantGoodale's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
Hello Les here. Sorry for the late responce. I feel your pain. I have tried Humbrol white and it started to yellow quickly. Water born paints such as Tamiya, Vallejo and Testors stay white for a very long time. One thing to consider, if you display your model in a sunlit room UV rays will damage even the highest quality paint. Rattle cans tend to lay down lots of paint at a shot so over application is an important consideration. My best advise is to purchase an airbrush and compressor and practice, practice, practice. Once proficient you will never hand brush paint again. If you scuff it up with some 400 grit sandpaper then spray a light coat of primer over the affected areas to block bleed through this will give you a good base for repainting. Good luck let me know how it goes. -
Hello Les here. I use Dap for filling gaps in wood for painting. One thing to be aware of is that when dry it is very hard and tough to sand. Best to fill very light coats so you minimize sanding. If applied over a soft wood you will sand out the wood before the filler. for softer work I use a water based filler.
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Coverage question?
bluenose2 replied to vossy's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
Les calling back. Purchase a couple of bottles of each colour you require. That way it is on hand if you run into any issues while painting. It's frustrating to be a cup short on a big job. -
Coverage question?
bluenose2 replied to vossy's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
Hi Les here. If you don't have a lot of experience with airbrushing, this may not be your best choice as a product. It sprays very thin and tends to clog up at the tip. even at a 50, 50 ratio it is still problematic. I have been airbrushing for more than 20 years and my go to water based acrylics are still Tamiya or Vallejo. Go online to see the reviews of Lifecolor products. Good luck. -
Hi Les here. If you plank the hull and apply the keel later it should work out if you file the hull planks very carefully so there would be a seamless transition to the hull to keel application. So when you glue up the keel it looks as if the planks have been faired into the keel. With this application you could apply a deeper piece of non laminated keel then sand it to shape. Please disregard previous note.
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Hello Les here. I have been a finishing carpenter for 25 years. I have done a lot of work with wood and other laminates. The problem arises when you have to cover a compound curve. It can't be done without great difficulty because you have to slice it and cope the curves to make it fit the hull. Glue up without big problems is hard. Ship builders use planking to correct for the curve of a hull. I tried this method with a Dumas Chris Craft runabout. I cut larger strips from old growth mahogany soaked them good and tried to do the job. I had to cut them down to kit size because they wouldn't conform to the hull. The only way to get a solid perfect hull is to carve one out of stock. Hope this helps.
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