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About mrcc
- Birthday 06/11/1964
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Calgary, Alberta
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Baker reacted to a post in a topic:
Friesland 1663 by mrcc - Mamoli MV24 - 1:75
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Friesland 1663 by mrcc - Mamoli MV24 - 1:75
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Friesland 1663 by mrcc - Mamoli MV24 - 1:75
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mrcc reacted to a post in a topic:
Wasa 1628 by Knocklouder - Billing Boats - 1:75
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And some pictures of the full hull as she sits at this time... First though a closeup of the kit supplied stern lanterns before they were attached to the stern... very nice in my opinion. Shame about the different color of the panes on the large centre lantern. I told my wife I was going to take a big break at this stage of the build but last night I could not help but turn a few of the masts with the used Proxxon lathe that I bought roughly two years ago for this very purpose. It was fun!
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An update as I have now officially finished the hull. All the gun port lids are now attached and with the exception of all the cannons being installed onto their gun cradles, I am now ready for the masts. I am going to place the cannons at the very end of the build... There are additional fittings such as eyelets and ring bolts to attach to the deck and hull but their placement is more associated with the rigging stage of the build. I will likely pre-drill some of these holes for the eyelets and ring bolts at this time, before the decks get too cluttered.
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mrcc reacted to a post in a topic:
Wasa 1628 by Knocklouder - Billing Boats - 1:75
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Started working on the gun port doors and getting them attached to the hull... also not a fun job. From the first picture (the two protrusion or ends of the hinge) were fitted in two small holes that I drilled just above each gun port (not pictured), gluing in with CA glue and and was able to achieve a solid attachment as a result. The instructions referenced to keep the port doors at a further angle upwards, but not sure how that would be possible and would not feel comfortable in getting a tight bond with the port and hinges to the hull. The last picture references my collection of gun port doors that are of a larger size and attach to the bottom row of the two on each side of the hull
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Finished the chainplates... not a fun job as once I cut back the extra chainplate length (in order to anchor on the wale), the ends kept wanting to separate (given no more solder keeping them together). I should have taken the time to resolder the ends but that is a new skill to me and I did not want to bother with that... next time! Bit of a CA glue mess on the two chainplate ends in the second picture. I will touch that up with dull black paint.
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Good luck in your journey! Its a big build... at least you have the newer kit from Dusek with laser cut pieces and the fit will certainly be better than my old vintage kit from Mamoli where everything was cut with a scroll saw.
- 5 replies
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- West Friesland
- Mamoli
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Look great! What project are you going to tackle next?
- 22 replies
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- chinese pirate junk
- Amati
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mrcc reacted to a post in a topic:
Große Jacht 1679 by Baker - FINISHED - Corel - 1:50 - modified model from the Yacht D'Oro kit
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mrcc reacted to a post in a topic:
HMS Sphinx 1775 by Ronald-V - Vanguard Models - 1:64
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Last post today: did some blackening - the pins were copper alloy, rings and eyelets were brass alloys, the chain was super tarnished brass, and the new chainplates that I made being brass wire. My technique was the same for all - swished around in isopropyl alcohol for 5 minutes occasionally brushing with an old toothbrush, then rinse in distilled water, then transferred to household vinegar for 2 minutes, and then rinsed in distilled water, and then transferred into a 1:3 solution of 1 part Birchwood Casey blackening solution with 3 parts warmed distilled water, with a final rinse with distilled water and drying. The process was really quick - just 5-10 seconds in the blackening solution with the results shown below. Very happy with the results!
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Update: Not happy with the space between the stern stem and the rudder. The space seems very excessive per the plans... I took off the rudder and put a fill piece in. Ideally I should have put it on the rudder side but the rudder margin length is convex and the stern stem is flat thus better accommodating the fill piece. Looks OK from up close but from 1 foot away, the fill piece completely blends in and is not noticeable. I think it looks better...
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Thanks Jose for checking out my build log. I hope it provides lots of help in your journey building the Mamoli Santa Maria. The kit has some flaws but overall it builds into an excellent model. Cheers!
- 181 replies
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- santa maria
- mamoli
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