mrcc
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Then of course, getting the cannons built and placed before the upper decks are fixed down. The carriages are glued down first on to the deck and later are the cannons placed through the port onto the carriage for display purposes. Much talk in the other Friesland build logs about the length of the dummy cannons that are to be placed in the deck below the main deck. Some kits of a particular era had cannons that were way out of scale with regards to length and... alas, I have one of those kits that are at least 5-7 mm too long compared to the cannons on the deck above.
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Got some work done on the Friesland this past weekend. Every step requires double checking and shimming where necessary. These vintage kits (pre laser cut) require lots of double checking as nothing is ideal with regards to fitment and further with regards to level and square. The bulkhead frames in the kit were not ideal and thus the builder always has to be thinking about future steps and how things will look. I leveled the hull and then worked forward in terms of shimming the deck support beams in order to make sure they are all level relevant to the hull and each other as evident in the pictures below.
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Thanks Patrick for your reply… went through your linked build log of your Golden Hind and found lots and lots of great information. Cheers!
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Lastly, spent a few hours this past weekend in sanding the hull, and it is now pretty close to being ready for the second (finish) planking layer. I added some fill at the bow and even less at the stern, but through the majority of the hull, added 0.5 mm to 1.0 mm strips to fill slight hollows (especially on the margins of the gun ports) and then sanded back to flush, and though it make not look great, this hull is very nice and smooth (at this time).
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Started to work on the deck fittings... per the plans. Happy with my cuts on the bitts... used the table saw to cut slits in 3 passes half way through the material to 5 mm width in the uprights to accommodate the horizontal bit. Used the saw at an angle of 40 degrees and ever so slightly scored the tops of the bits on all 4 sides of the end and fine tuned with a file for a satisfactory result. The capstan is as pictured and easy enough to figure out but absolutely no guidance in the instruction manual. The instructions only say "glue to the deck". Not sure if I should research a color scheme that is period specific and may do some research on this tonight.
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The Mamoli plans do not call for this step in the instructions but thought I would add this detail should anyone wish to peek through the gunports. The edge of the bulwark is a simple strip of 5 mm with lines drawn through them (to simulate ends of the sides) and the side strips are regular strips that are 5 mm in width.
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Thanks Jan for all the information!
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This is the grating kits from Jotika/Caldercraft. I am missing some laths from 2 of the 6 packages I ordered and have an email out to Jotika for a replacement package.
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Long time since posting an update as was working on another kit... now finished. One of the disappointments with this old vintage kit was the gratings, they are extremely brittle and fragile as you can see in the picture below. I could not live with the result and as such ordered a number of grating packages from Jotika/Caldercraft (made from beechwood). Happy with the result... I cut a recess in the outer margins in the underside perimeter of the grating with my Proxxon saw, also creating a nice margin on the deck, and was lucky enough to have a nice tight friction fit to hide the LED light switch.
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By the way... I could not even find the kit on Corel's own website. Strange!
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Hi Jan... Yes I am sure 😊... take a peek at the screen capture and the attached image from modelexpo's website in the US. I was not aware of this kit until just recently myself... it looks beautiful! Merry Christmas!
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Thanks Peter… yes it is a nice break from the big builds but this kit had some frustrating elements to its construction. All good though… I know Corel has a Dutch Royal river boat that looks really interesting as well.. should someone be interested in this specific subject matter. Yes, Merry Christmas to you as well!
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Thanks all!
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Completed the build at this time... what can I say... I am pleased with the look but certainly the cheaper the kit, the cheaper the result. As simple as that... As I said at the beginning of the build log that it was to be a straight out of the box build. My painting effort perhaps is not the best... but better next time. Going to move-on from the experience and at this time going to focus my effort on my Mamoli Friesland (which I have already started). Thanks for checking out my build log!
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Thanks for the replies… definitely do not speak Russian but do proudly speak some Ukrainian. The chuck in the video is completely different that the 3 jaw chuck of the DB250 but thanks for posting. Certainly I meant to say that the towel over the chuck would need to be created in a tent in order to catch the oil on the first spin after applying penetrating oil.
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Thanks… absolutely no instructions in this regard from Proxxon whether online or in print.
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Thanks! Lots of very good information there…
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Thanks Wefalck... interesting comment about the collets and yes I have them for the machine and many very well take your advice.
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Agreed... But with my primary purpose being to work on dowels; masts and yards, better to have the jaws with the tall end facing in
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Thanks Curt... yes I will rectify that once I put it all together again. Cheers!
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Good advice... I will throw a towel over the chuck on its first operation. Cheers!
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Thanks for all the information… great for the next person struggling to find a solution as there was absolutely no information on the internet specific to this proxxon chuck anyways. PS Proxxon USA (in an email yesterday) recommends using a penetrating oil on the “spiral milled on the base”.
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Update: Reached out to Proxxon USA and they advised me not to take apart the chuck and that with removing the jaws from the base (which I did not know it could be done), there is more than enough room to apply a penetrating oil to remove the thick grime between the base and rotating plate, which should allow easier movement of the jaws. Cleaned up the jaws already and tonight will get the base cleaned up... Jaw 2 is marked 2 on each side and will fit in the original 2 slot of the base but the other two jaws are not as clear in my mind where to place as they have markings of 1 or 3 on each side presuming that 1 will face the 1 on the base and the 3 on the jaw facing the base 3 along the circumference skipping the 2 slot. Not sure as I want to flip the jaw from the original position I received the used chuck in.
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Bingo... it looks like the Proxxon chuck is similarly designed and engineered as the Sherline (mini chuck anyways). Thanks CPDDET! Looks like I need to buy a snap ring plier though... Also looks like the jaws perhaps were not installed (by the previous owner) correctly as per the numbering pattern. Perhaps that why it is so stiff to open and close the jaws.
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