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Clark

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Everything posted by Clark

  1. Hi Frank, glad you are back. Looks great. You are right not to fix the pots at this stage. I had to remove the ones in my build since they as they trembled dangerously when the ship was moved. Clark
  2. Hi Michael, I am also following your blog. It is a different approach. I especially like that you show the sails secured. When I get to that point, I'll ask a few more questions on your blog. I assume, however, that you are then finished with your Reale. Continue to have fun Clark
  3. Main mast was prepared and fixed similarly to the foremast. A little bit surprising for me, backstays have to be fixed at the first chains/toggles (seen from the bow) when following the description of corel. I followed it. The fifth chains/toggles are still left free for the later attachment of the rack lines. Clark
  4. Sharpening works quite well when using the sandpaper tools delivered by proxxon. I got both needles and blades sharp enough . There is also a rotating sharpening stone available by proxxon I usually start with the blades. Clark
  5. Hi Dave, hi wefalk Using the vice of proxxon makes drilling and even sanding really easy but I would agree that fixing to the drilling table is a bit challenging in that you have to be sure to adjust it rectangular. I put a long strip (100cm) in the vice (MS4), adjusted the drilling table (KT70) rectangular to the edge of the work disk and measured and adjusted the deviation of the strip of the edge of the working disk. When no deviation was visible, screws were tightened. Clark
  6. Thanks, the Reale is a great challenge in general. Good luck with your build. Clark
  7. I have started preparing the foremast. As always this takes sone time. Progress is not immediately visible. Upper end of the mast is quadratic. I used the table saw to get it in shape. After making it quadratic I bevelled the mast using the “lathe” described above. Lower end of the mast has to be shaped octogonal and bevelled. I glued a wooden trim on a base with 3° deviation to form a guide bar and adjusted it to a disc sander. To get the mast rotated by 45° and in agreement with the quadratic end, I fixed the quadratic end of the mast in a small vice. Before adjustin
  8. I have installed the midway planks. Just behind the main mast, the lines of the haleyard of the main yard run through the planks. To place the holes in the midway planks correctly, I mounted a preliminary main mast and attached the lines of the haleyard to it. I also installed most of the lines later needed for handling the yards (tackles etc.). I thought it would be difficult to attach them when masts and shrouds are added. The lines were pulled through bee wax (to get a slight stiffness) and carefully flamed (to remove the “hairs”). Next step will be preparing the masts.
  9. Hi Frank, good idea to simulate the holding wire of the davits which is surely more realistic. I am also in the process of attaching the cleats and rigging lines. It will be probably more difficult when masts and shrouds are installed. Clark
  10. Chuck, I think that is a good sign that you are sold out. Just a short question: I noticed that the medway longboat was not available over a longer period of time. Is it on your list? Clark
  11. Frank, glad you are prooceeding. I am not sure if you are running into the same problem as I did. Are you aware that there should be enough space between the swivel guns and the lower railing? Clark
  12. After mounting the swivel guns, I adapted the spars later necessary to support the stern drape (I still hesitate whether to put on the drape or not, it will cover a lot). The cross bar was made out of a tapered 3mm spar. I used my old “lathe” made out of a drill machine on one side and a ball bearing on the other side. Opening of the ball bearing was minimized by a small spar. It is not very sophisticated but I have used it very often before to taper masts and yards. It worked. Tapered bar was glued on a carved support put on the arch construction.
  13. Just browsed through the offers. There are some remarks that the cuts are not very precise. I would also be interested in any answers. Is it possible to design and print ornaments on thin (~0.5mm) wooden planks?
  14. Pinnace kit arrived yesterday (ordered 10 d ago). Looks perfect. Recommendation to all not only to those who like details. Clark
  15. May be I can help. Both is with me. Please send me a short note. However, manual description does not help a lot. Better to follow the blogs. Clark
  16. I did not want to start a discussion about Brexit. I only wanted to express my hope thant we can rely on you, Chris, in the near and distant future. Pinnace was ordered yesterday. I am eager to start. Clark
  17. Cooking box is now ready. I added some ash and wood remnants from our fireplace. Since I was also wondering how the soup may be distributed, I put a bucket rack aside. Furthermore, I could not imagine how soup and fire could be handled. Therfore, I glued a walking plank on one side of the cooking box. A further question still bothers me: Are two pots with a diameter of ~60 cm really enough for ~500 hungry man working hard. While the glued ash of the cooking box was drying, I started to think about the swivel guns and I have noticed that the supports I have already m
  18. Thats what was also reported to me but I hope that this will not affect the interrelationsuip between the modellers like Pablo, Paul or Pov. Clark
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