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Clark

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  1. Clark
    Thanks for stopping by.
  2. Clark
    Thanks! Diameter of the thicker part of the oar blade (dont know if this is the correct name) varied between 4 and 2.4 mm. Sanded them the best I could.
  3. Clark
    Next, the oars were prepared. The blanks from Corel had to be sanded and adjusted quite intensively. It might have been easier to make the oars from a strip with a square cross-section. Since later the ship will be visible mainly from the starboard side, I assigned the slightly worse oars to the port side. Also between port and starboard was later differentiated in the simulated attachment of the protective boards (knots/gluing on the keel side of the oars). To fix the rudders better, small pieces of wire (diameter 0.2 mm) were first sunk into the shaft. However, it turned out that these wire pins made adjusting the oars rather difficult. They were therefore subsequently ground off. To adjust the oars on the ship, I made a template that imitated the bend of the ship's side. The distance between the oars was marked. On the outside, the oars were brought to the same distance by a spacer bar. For the showcase I used acrylic glass. The showcase was mounted under a sloping roof. The easier sawing of acrylic glass proved to be advantageous here. Now in the showcase it becomes especially clear what dimensions the ship has. In retrospect, building the ship was a lot of fun even if the material from Corel sometimes left something to be desired.
  4. Clark
    Hope you get well soon Clark
  5. Clark
    Hello Gerard, thank you very much for the detailed answer, which really helped me and removed many uncertainties. I had so far relied on von Mondfeld with his special editions on the galleys and the ships of the Mediterranean. However, he is less informative here than with his other books. Also congratulations on the galleys video (La Fleur de Lis) which helps explain a lot. Clark
  6. Clark
    I just saw that an old discussion is being reignited. In this context, I have a question for the experts.In the case of ships from the Mediterranean region (xebecs, galleys), the standing rigging is also modeled light. Is this correct? Clark
  7. Clark
    In the last few weeks I have finished the anchors, the flags and the dinghy and attached them to the ship. The problem with the Corel anchors is shown in the previous post. Regarding the exact bearing of the anchors, there was a discussion on safemaster's blog: https://modelshipworld.com/topic/20561-reale-de-france-by-safemaster-heller/page/7/ In the end, Gérard Delacroix convinced me, his video is quite compelling and contradicts Corel's presentation: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YYxrbtuyNG0. In my opinion the anchor ropes have to be guided tightly. Therefore, they are guided directly into the box. For the flags, movement due to the wind was simulated with highly diluted PVA. For the dinghy, material was also used that came from Chris https://vanguardmodels.co.uk/product/ships-boats-various-types/. It's not quite contemporary this way, but I liked it better this way. Next I will work on the oars and think about the construction of the display case.
  8. Clark
    IIf you have enough money, you might want to buy a second device that runs on a rechargeable battery. The Dremel inserts can also be used with Proxxon. Conversely, only those with a thick shaft. Have fun Clark
  9. Clark
    The "Krick" dregg anchors only had to be slightly deburred. Following von Mondfeld's description, galley anchors were fastened with a special stay. I put the ship aside for the time being, so the anchors are also in stock and will only be attached later. The next thing I want to do is the dinghy.
  10. Clark
    Hi Frank, Not only are the anchors bent, but the right one has a depression on the lower blade arm. I ordered new ones from "Krick" (German specialist dealer), they arrived yesterday and look excellent. I had tried to make anchors myself on a previous ship, but it was not successful. How are you doing with the move? Ships secured? All the best Clark
  11. Clark
    The main lateen yard is now fixed. The first fixation was again done with two small nails, countersunk in the yard. The ropes for the halyard were fixed before. As they pass through the centre aisle and are attached to the pins of the forecastle, they were mounted before the covering the centre aisle. As there are no sails attached, I fixed the yard slightly eased. Actually, I then wanted to continue with the anchors, but found that they were considerably bent and also inaccurately made. Another point that turns me away from Corel.
  12. Clark
    Preordered two weeks ago, Sphinx arrived today. Chris, do you ever sleep? Thank you very, very much! Perfect. Clark
  13. Clark
    Back at the shipyard after a long time. Our house (wood) was in need of an intensive refreshing and touching up, so the warm months were needed for that. The fore lateen yard is now fixed. I pondered for some time whether to show the sails and decided against it. The lateen sails are quite large and catch the eye. Reefed sails usually look rather fake, my attempts with paper etc. on the previous ships were not quite satisfactory. The attachment to the foremast was done with two small nails (unfortunately no photo taken), so that the rigging was then easier to attach. I partly deviated from the Corel plan with regard to the rigging and the belaying, as some things seemed illogical to me (conflict with the oars).
  14. Clark
    Thank you very much for the quick reply. It is more than understandable that you want to be on the safe side. I will exercise patience then. Good luck and success to you and James with the wonderful model. Clark
  15. Clark
    Is it already possible to send an advance order? Clark
  16. Clark
    Good idea not to fix the guns, it will pay off at the latest when the shrouds are fixed, own experience. Clark
  17. Clark
    Hi Frank, glad you are back. Looks great. You are right not to fix the pots at this stage. I had to remove the ones in my build since they as they trembled dangerously when the ship was moved. Clark
  18. Clark
    Hi Michael, I am also following your blog. It is a different approach. I especially like that you show the sails secured. When I get to that point, I'll ask a few more questions on your blog. I assume, however, that you are then finished with your Reale. Continue to have fun Clark
  19. Clark
    Main mast was prepared and fixed similarly to the foremast. A little bit surprising for me, backstays have to be fixed at the first chains/toggles (seen from the bow) when following the description of corel. I followed it. The fifth chains/toggles are still left free for the later attachment of the rack lines. Clark
  20. Clark
    Sharpening works quite well when using the sandpaper tools delivered by proxxon. I got both needles and blades sharp enough . There is also a rotating sharpening stone available by proxxon I usually start with the blades. Clark
  21. Clark
    So July will be Chrismas time. Clark
  22. Clark
    Hi Dave, hi wefalk Using the vice of proxxon makes drilling and even sanding really easy but I would agree that fixing to the drilling table is a bit challenging in that you have to be sure to adjust it rectangular. I put a long strip (100cm) in the vice (MS4), adjusted the drilling table (KT70) rectangular to the edge of the work disk and measured and adjusted the deviation of the strip of the edge of the working disk. When no deviation was visible, screws were tightened. Clark
  23. Clark
    Thanks!!
  24. Clark
    Thanks, the Reale is a great challenge in general. Good luck with your build. Clark
  25. Clark
    I have started preparing the foremast. As always this takes sone time. Progress is not immediately visible. Upper end of the mast is quadratic. I used the table saw to get it in shape. After making it quadratic I bevelled the mast using the “lathe” described above. Lower end of the mast has to be shaped octogonal and bevelled. I glued a wooden trim on a base with 3° deviation to form a guide bar and adjusted it to a disc sander. To get the mast rotated by 45° and in agreement with the quadratic end, I fixed the quadratic end of the mast in a small vice. Before adjusting the masts, I prepared all the lines of shrouds and back stays. I found it difficult to fix the toggles. Thus, I drilled holes with smaller diameter than the middle of the toggles to put ~1/3 of the toggles in it. Upper end of the toggles end was fixed by a trim. It made handling of the toggles much easier. All lines were pulled through bee wax. Racks were also added before gluing the masts in place at this stage.

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