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Clark

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Everything posted by Clark

  1. Clark
    Hi Frank, glad you are back. It is a good idea to add rudder pendents. However I thought they were not in use such early. Below a photo from http://militaryhistory.x10.mx/shippictures/art_galleys_and_galleasses_03.htm showing the rudder area. How many of the ornaments are left? There a still some needed for decoration at the stern. Clark
  2. Clark
    Swivel gun support were prepared and added.
  3. Clark
    Hi Frank, meanwhile I removed the rudder assembly from the ship. I am afraid that it will be damaged while handling and turning the ship. Clark
  4. Clark
    Hi Frank, height of the pins was adjusted to 5mm. Oars including protective boards at the that point are 5mm x 3 mm (width x height). Oar supports were cut to 7 mm. This there is 2 mm space left in both direktions. Hope it works when oars will be fixed. I placed the pins perpendicular to the waterline. To adjust the ship at the waterline, I took the distances from the corel plan showing that the stern yoke is 14 mm higher that the bow yoke. 14 mm is the number I reminder. I am not quite sure. To adjust the pins perpendicularly I used the holder shown above (#77). Since we will probably not be allowed to visit our children, living a bit far away, during Xmas due to Lockdown, I will probably spend more time with Reale. Clark
  5. Clark
    Next step was to arrange the thole pin of the oars. I hesitated if the pins had to be arranged on the bow or on the stern side of the oars, i.e. if the boat was pulled or pushed via the pins. They had to be arranged on the stern side of the oars meaning that the boat was pulled via the pins and oarloops. Gimo, thanks for providing the picture. To arrange the pins vertically, used the holder I had prepared for fixing the supports. Railing stanchions were prepared out of two 2x2 mm wood strips according to Corel suggestions. To get the correct and uniform placement of the small piece on the longer one, I used a simple walnut strip with an opening cut. To fix the stanchions on the deck, small pins were inserted. For arranging the stanchions vertically and horizontally I used the holder again. Stanchions and pins of the port side are now placed and glued.
  6. Clark
    Gimo, thanks for the comments, but I am not talented enough to do that. Clark
  7. Clark
    Hi Frank, it might be overkill but follows the picture below. Morever, I thought it would be a very nice contrast to the dark wood structure of the hull. I have shortly thought of blackening the ornaments but I finally painted them gold just to get the contrast. Gimo is surely right that they were painted directly on the hull but this is far beyond my skills. I fixed them with a gel-type CA glue. Some of the ornaments were carfully sanded on the backside to get an even surfeace to attach the glue. There is not a lot of time to correct the position. I have used several wood strips, horizontal and vertical, to mark the position. Woodstrips were cut using the ship waterline shown in the corelplan.
  8. Clark
    Lily ornaments were glued on the hull. When finished, there were only 3 lilies left. Thus, the further ornaments must be made in another way. I am quite sure that I did not drop any of the ornaments. But I had to sort out about 10 of them since they were not fully casted.
  9. Clark
    Thanks a lot Gimo, it really helps me. Thus, most of the force is transferred via the oarloops. If will probably simulate an additional leather protection between pin and loop. However, this will surely be some times later. At present I was wondering where to place the oar supports. Again thanks a lot Clark
  10. Clark
    Hi Frank, just a short question. Hope you can help me. I am proceeding and started to place the oarlocks. But I was wondering about the Corel plan. It is shown that the oarlocks are on the stern side of the respective oar. I am quite convinced that they should be positioned on the bow side. Otherwise it would be impossible to transfer the force of the oarstroke onto the boat. I took a foto of the corel plan and simulated the correct (?) position of the oar in relation to the oarlock with a wood strip. I hope I could explain the problem. If yes, do you agree with me? Clark
  11. Clark
    I was also wondering about the hatches and followed the Corel plan. I will probly copy your hinge idea. Have a nice time with your family! Clark
  12. Clark
    Planking of the bow area follows a certain pattern. After tracing the plank outline onto wood strips, planks were cut and glued onto paper. To simulate caulking, I used small strips of paper glued between the planks. Paper strips were cut when planks were glued. Planks were then sanded and glued on deck as a whole block. Knees, edges and rails were glued after sanding and smoothing the contour. Cathead material provided by Corel was slovenly prepared. Size differs (I noticed that after cutting the slots for the achor rope). At this point I was wondering if Corel really put enough effort to provide the wood material, since it is not the first time I noticed such an inaccuracy. Catheads were made new form walnut boards. Cathead and metal enforcement were added. Unicorn ram at the head was “stabilized” by a conical support.
  13. Clark
    Figurine looks excellent. Glad you managed the reattachment. Are you really sure you are able not to look at the ship for one week? Clark
  14. Clark
    Thanks a lot. Maybe such a long narrow ship is easier to steer than a short one. Like an eight-man sculls. Clark
  15. Clark
    Hi Frank, Most of the glue types will probably ve visible under the Mica. Do you have ever tried acrylic glue to be hardended by UV light which is very transparent at least to my experince. I do not know if it works with Mica and wood. Clark
  16. Clark
    I was also wondering about the handling of the rudder tiller. Not only because it stretches into the kings area but also because it is very short. I would assume that there is a huge horizontal energy with the waves wich would it make very difficult to handle such a short tiller. Maybe there were additional blocks and ropes used to enhance the leverage. Is there anything outlined in the plans of Fleur de Lis about the rudder? Clark
  17. Clark
    Thanks, Frank, for accompanying me. Maybe I made the mistake that I left the brass pieces too long in the blackening solution. They broke immediately when I tried to adapt them finally to the rudder. They were preadapted before putting them in the blackening solution. Although the upper hinge seemed to resist the blackening solution, I replaced it also by card strips to get a uniform appearance (photo below). It may be better to paint the hinges with email paint and not to use blackening solution.
  18. Clark
    The brass pieces provided for the rudder hinges did not resist bending and blackening at least the way I did. Thus I replaced them by card strips. Stern part is now ready and I will proceed with the bow area.
  19. Clark
    It really took some efforts to get the bending. Your way may be better. Luck and patience. Clark
  20. Clark
    For adapting the arches covering the kings platform, I used and sanded the template provided by Corel before proceeding the way Corel manual suggests. This because the arches had to be put in line with the arches already glued at the stern platform. It took some time but it was the best way to fit the strips. Railings were fixed before putting the arch construction on. According to Corel there should be a window line between the railings: So far none of the Reale builders (fmodajr, bender, gimo) liked it. Me neither. I replaced it by some pillars.
  21. Clark
    Hi Frank, I am almost at the same point you are now. When building the Xebec, I had the same problem but used the flexible wood and it worked, althought it took a lot of efforts to bend the ends. Nevertheless, stressing of wood was no problem. Thus I will probably rely on the the flexible ones. For that purpose, I checked the templates of Reale Corel provides (#233 and others). They are not completely in line when placed in order and have to be sanded. Did you have the same problem? I am a bit disappointed of the Corel material. Your solution seems much better than the flexible wood. Clark
  22. Clark
    Frank, I was also wondering how to manage the problem of windows since they are visible from the outside only. Moreover, the false windows provided by Corel do not look very realistic. I do not like them. I will probable leave the space between the rails completely free. At present we all are watching the battle in your Country which will surely have a strong impact on Europe. Clark
  23. Clark
    The floor will be covered by arches but I know that is there. Thanks for stopping by. Clark
  24. Clark
    The king’s platform at the stern is ready. Compass symbol is surrounded by diagonal planking using mahogany and lime strips.
  25. Clark
    For planking the decorative platforms at the stern, I used the material provided by corel. Since these platforms were the beginning of the officer’s part of the ship, I marked the “border” to the oarsmen part by a half round strip on the top and a concave one at the bow side. Clark

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