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Jack12477

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Everything posted by Jack12477

  1. Try using Microsol GLOSS on the area of the wood where you intend to place the decal. Place the decal, use Microsol SET to "set it down", when dry use Microsol FLAT to flatten the glossy look; then over spray with a matte finish. Decals (at least water decals) work best on a gloss surface.
  2. Looks nice ! Good job on mating those laser cut side pieces to the rest of the hull. Nice job on the stern also - that took me two tries and was still not completely satisfied with the results.
  3. Kurt, search on "wood art box", here's link http://www.displays2go.com/P-22078/Wooden-Artist-Box-for-Art-Supplies?st=Search&sid=artist storge
  4. Jean, nice job on getting the deck to align properly with the stern bulkheads. I had a devil of a time with that. Model is looking nice.
  5. I've had line(s) pull thru the slit in bulkhead rings that were not soldered shut.
  6. Yes, I solder mine for same reason.
  7. Hang in there, Jean. Study the instructions and photos carefully. You will figure it out. Took me a while but I did figure it out. Just proceed slowly. It is a beautiful mode when completed
  8. Hi Jean, Pulling up a stool to watch. I built this same kit a while ago. Build log link is in my signature.
  9. Julie What is the brand name of the plunge router base you are using with your Dremel? Is it Stewart Mac? Thanks
  10. I have a signed copy of his book. It is a facinating book as Clare says.
  11. Chuck, that's one. I use the Testor's decal paper which I can get in Hobby Lobby among others. Used it on my Marie Jeanne model. I have the Testor's Decal Maker software. And I use the Microscale Industries Micro-SOL, Micro-SET, Micro-Gloss and Micro-Flat solutions to set the decals. Even works on cloth sails.
  12. Dave, he has no power and probably no Internet or Cell, see http://fplmaps.com/ click on Power Tracker for map of area.
  13. Click on your profile to open it. On left side click on Account Settings, scroll down to Display Name and click in that to open a new window, enter your new/corrected name and click Save at the bottom of window.
  14. John, the one I got in Lowes had 60, 120, and 220 grits for the little narrow sander. Also bought the larger one with 3 grits of paper. RichVee, Hobby Lobby also sells those sanding sticks you show in the link. Come with 2 grits per stick, e.g. 80 - 120, 120 - 220, etc. Just flip the stick over to get the other grit. Color coded also.
  15. Cliff, don't post your email address or paypall account here. This forum is not secure. Have people contact you via PM and use that to communicate this info. Just edit your post and remove the info.
  16. Try the Walthers catalog of model railroad - they have probably the largest supply of model RR stuff - but they are US based - see http://www.walthers.com/‎
  17. try Loews ! They carry poplar, maple, oak, pine, aspen in an aisle near their main lumber area - it's list under "craft lumber" and is cut in 1/8, 1/4, 3/8, 3/4 and I think 1 " thickness and widths from 1 up to 6 inches and lengths of 2, 3, 4 ft. Don't know sub-species of Maple they have but it is nice looking wood. That's where I get my "craft" lumber fro various home projects.
  18. Ken, I assume from it's name that his ship is a Great Lakes vessel ????
  19. Ken, thanks again for the explanation and demo. Now I understand exactly what & how your doing it. I have to agree with you, that G1 camera takes some incredibly sharp, crisp photos. In my sidetrack on your photography, I am remiss in not commenting on your very excellent model and those very well done curved stairs. Your model is coming along very nicely and your craftsmanship is superb. As is your photography. Enjoying your build immensely. Thanks again for the advice.
  20. Thanks, Ken. I was wondering if you were doing that. But some of your boat deck shots don't look cropped. I can see I have some experimenting to do. Still trying to make the switch from film/darkroom to digital/computer. I got my first 35 mm camera in 1955 and had a darkroom setup by 1959-60.
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