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Jack12477

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Everything posted by Jack12477

  1. Jack12477
    I have used the MS paints with a brush. Kurt's correct. The pigment is too coarse and obliterates any fine detail. I found it also has to be diluted with water to flow properly. I used the artist's technique - put a small dab of the paint on a piece of card stock, dip the brush in water, then into the dab of paint and swirl it around a bit on the card stock, do this repeatedly till it thins to a consistence you want, then pick up paint on the brush directly from the card stock and apply to the model. I agree with others - Vallejo is a good replacement for Floquil
  2. Jack12477
    Very nice ! I like your color scheme. Coming along nicely.
  3. Jack12477
    Derek, In addition to the above, I recommend using Microscale decal products to set the decal in place, then covering the decal with either Microscale Gloss or Flat or Testors Dulcote spray before you cover it with Wipe-on-Poly. Not sure how the Poly will affect the decal if it is applied directly over the decal. I find it the Microscale products make the decal conform to the surface better and they seal the decal well. Works the same on wood as it does on plastic - the decals on my plastic Armor models have held up well for over 20 years. One other thing the decals go on best over a glossy surface, so I use the Microscale Gloss to cover the area where the decal is to be placed, then after that dries, apply the decal.
  4. Jack12477
    Derek, I used Testors decal paper and the Sure Thing Decal Maker: Standard Ediition Software from Decal Gear; both worked well. I used it to create the decal name for the Marie Jeanne and Willie Bennett (see links in signature below). If you have access to a Hobby Lobby store, they carry the decal paper, and Decal Bonder in their stores. The decal paper comes Clear and White. Any good ink jet printer will create the decals; use the Decal Bonder to set the ink before you immerse the paper in water - this is a MUST DO.
  5. Jack12477
    Take one of the bolts and go to your Loews or Home Depot stores, in their hardware department on the wall/bin rack they have measuring jigs that will give you the exact size and thread.
  6. Jack12477
    Tower Hobbies in Chicago (USA) offers Dumas and Artesania Latina kits at very reasonable prices and both of these manufacturers are good and reputable. Also Ages of Sail (see link here on MSW) is another good source for kits.
  7. Jack12477
    Yes, we do Chuck. I buried my Dad this past Monday - died November 9th at age of 102. Thoughts and prayers for a good outcome and speedy recovery for your Mother-in-law. Thoughts and prayers to your wife as well. Take whatever time you need. Family first.
  8. Jack12477
    Me too ! Nice paint work.
  9. Jack12477
    Mike, I did a single fold on mine and used a "fray stopping glue" made by same company to stop the edge from fraying - time will tell if it really works or not. Probably a double fold would be better but then it depends on the scale. My single fold is nearly impossible to distinguish at 1:48 scale.
  10. Jack12477
    I would suggest going to a sewing store like JoAnns and getting Aleene's Tacky Glue (you may also be able to find it in Michaels craft store). I've used it to tack down the sail cloth as I fold over the hem. Makes stitching easier. You could lay some rope (e.g. Syren rope) inside the fold of the hem, apply a little Tacky Glue to hold it. It dries flexible and holds pretty well. I used on the last set of sails I had to make. Admiral did the sewing machine part for me.
  11. Jack12477
    Looks great Jean-Philippe. Coming along nicely.
  12. Jack12477
    Jim, I am enjoying your paintings immensely - you have a great eye and great talent - thanks for sharing them with us.
  13. Jack12477
    Actually ALL of the photos are contest winners. Very nice work, Ken. You are lucky to live in an area with such photogenic scenes. Your ship model is coming along well also.
  14. Jack12477
    Yes! After the decal sets and dries, apply either Microsol Gloss or Flat to seal the decal, let it dry completely, then apply your matte finish over the Microsol
  15. Jack12477
    Try using Microsol GLOSS on the area of the wood where you intend to place the decal. Place the decal, use Microsol SET to "set it down", when dry use Microsol FLAT to flatten the glossy look; then over spray with a matte finish. Decals (at least water decals) work best on a gloss surface.
  16. Jack12477
    Looks nice ! Good job on mating those laser cut side pieces to the rest of the hull. Nice job on the stern also - that took me two tries and was still not completely satisfied with the results.
  17. Jack12477
    Kurt, search on "wood art box", here's link http://www.displays2go.com/P-22078/Wooden-Artist-Box-for-Art-Supplies?st=Search&sid=artist storge
  18. Jack12477
    Jean, nice job on getting the deck to align properly with the stern bulkheads. I had a devil of a time with that. Model is looking nice.
  19. Jack12477
    I've had line(s) pull thru the slit in bulkhead rings that were not soldered shut.
  20. Jack12477
    thanks for the info, Julie
  21. Jack12477
    Yes, I solder mine for same reason.
  22. Jack12477
    Hang in there, Jean. Study the instructions and photos carefully. You will figure it out. Took me a while but I did figure it out. Just proceed slowly. It is a beautiful mode when completed
  23. Jack12477
    Hi Jean, Pulling up a stool to watch. I built this same kit a while ago. Build log link is in my signature.
  24. Jack12477
    Julie What is the brand name of the plunge router base you are using with your Dremel? Is it Stewart Mac? Thanks
  25. Jack12477
    I have a signed copy of his book. It is a facinating book as Clare says.

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