hof00

Thanks Bill, You think that’s small, watch this. LOL

Futtock and upper shrouds on Mizzen Mast…

Anchors came in today from Peter’s Model Supplies on eBay. Great sources for parts. 


Can’t wait to do Ratlines on this one. Steady as she goes…
Cheers
 

Once both front/back sides are covered, you fill in both left/right sides.   Instructions call for a very inaccurate way to measure for the curved sides (Part 71).  At my skill level I would have  really hard time making that curve match the actual curved corner in the carriage.    I pondered it for a long figuring there was no way I was going to be able to make that curve match the carriage.
 

 
Finally realized, and I am not sure why the instructions did not talk about this, but you already have a template that will match the curve exactly.   That being the outline of the sheet wood that contained both sides of the carriage.
 

 
Insert a sheet of the sapelly into the frame and you have the exact curve.   Use a pencil to mark the curve and cut it out with a sharp scissors.    Again, this wood is so thin a scissors works far better than even a sharp   exacto knife.   I am sorry I did not get a picture of the resulting piece, but it really is the exact shape of the curve.
 

 
Below you see the shaped piece inserted into the corner of the carriage.   Using the supplied template is really the only way to do this..
 

 
After all four corners were in place, just started going around the inside of the carriage inserting in the straight pieces.   Note each piece is a little long and will be trimmed later.   I think (hope) it will be easier to trim around the windows and doors later on then try to trim the pieces to make at exact fit prior to gluing them in
 

 

 
 
 
 

A Tale of Woe . . .
 
Before adding the vertical stabilizer to the fuselage, I first added a strip of scrap card to fit inside the stabilizer -- recall that the stabilizer's framing doesn't sit on the fuselage. This gives some more gluing area.

After this, the stabilizer was added.
 
And here's where I ran into some problems. Sometimes the little parts of a model can cause the most trouble. On the MiG-15 and its derivatives, there is a small projection of the fuselage that juts out past the exhaust outlet and forms the base of the vertical stabilizer. Here's the parts for that bit:

 
At first I thought the little joiner strips were supposed to go from this structure to the insides of the stabilizer. I also thought it was weird, if that was the case, to not glue the joiners to the stabilizer first. So I went ahead and did that.
 
Whoops!!
 
I later determined that the joiners were supposed to mate the aft structure to the stabilizer fillets, i.e., they go on the outside of the stabilizer! Since I had already glued the kit parts to the wrong area, I had to make new joiners from scratch. I also needed to trim the cone-like tail structure to get it to fit in the gap between the exhaust outlet and stabilizer.

 
Then I added the fillets -- or rather fillet, singular, since the two sides are all of one piece.

The finished assembly is not particularly tidy.
 
And here's where we are now.

 
Until next time!

The speedy little Honda was a fast project indeed. It took me only two weeks to accomplish and leaves me with a "is it really done ?" expression.

The fairing was the most problematic part of the build. I sprayed it with AK´s Extreme Metal flat aluminum and when I added some mild Tamiya decal fluid, I got a bad paint surface. The fairing needed respraying and then, I glossed over the flat aluminum with Alclad aqua gloss, after my Mr. Color GX100 clear wasn´t working. Not for the first time, it produced a candy cotton effect, equal, which mixing ratio I took. When it works, GX100 is perfect, but often it doesn´t for me and I don´t know why.

Then I applied the decals which were generally nice to work with. They contoured well with Tamiya Mark Fit Strong fluid applied on top, using a hairdryer as well.
For some reason, the 1 of the #16 deformed a tiny bit with the Mark Fit, but I corrected this with a marker.
The numerous tiny metal rivets were applied, using a flat cut toothpick with low tack double sided adhesive tape. Before, the molded rivets were cut away with a sharp blade and after marking the center with a steel needle, I drilled 0,5 mm holes.
 








Cheers Rob

Next come bending the cover over the carriage structure.   Instructions calls to start at one end and slowly with CA glue bend the wood over the cover.   To me that seemed kind of hard and i am not a big fan of CA glue when wood glue would work.   To me the easiest way to ben the cover over the structure was to slightly dampen the cover - both sides.    Find the middle of the sheet and clamp the carriage to it.   I then used a heat gun to soften the wood (not sure that was necessary) and slowly bent each side up at the same time.   Again, make sure the carriage is securely clamped to the center of the wood sheet.   At that point l the sheet is up over both sides, clamp it well and let it dry overnight.
 

 

 
Next day remove the clamps.   The cover sheet will flop down some, but can easily be bent back.    Add some wood glue to all glue spots and clamp well.   Again wait over night for the glue to really set up.   In addition to clamps, some rubber bands were added at the curve to make sure it was also well glued.
 

 

 

 
Next day when clamps are removed all is good
 

Used an exacto knife and sand paper to remove the excess wood.
 

 
I forget exactly what happened here with the gouges, but it had nothing to do with bending the wood.    I seem to remember "trying to be cute" and "Fast" with the wood trimming and these gouges were the result.   Not a big deal.  A little wood filler and all is good with the world
 

 
On to lining the inside of the carriage with the really thin .06mm sapelly wood.    That is really thin...  it splits and cracks just looking at it.   I found one was that worked for me in cutting the sapelly was to use a sharp scissors.   It is especially hard on both sides of the carriage as the sides are curved.  So you have to shape the wood and it can be a challange do to the wood being so thin.
 
Once side complete
 

 
Second side complete.   I am not too worried about the middle piece on the left being a little short.  In the end, when the floor is laid and seats added, that little gap will not be seen.  However, there really was no excuse for that piece being short....  other than lack of skill on my part  🙂
 

I have done the first heavy sanding with 120 grit, 180 grit and a final with 220 grit.  There are some areas that will need filler and more sanding.  I did manage to snap off a piece of the keel where the rudder post will mount.  Used a piece of scrap from the kit and made a new one.  I have said before and will say again, this kit should have an instruction book and the build sequence should be modified.  I have still not heard back from AL with my concerns about this model

Catheads…








Catheads rigged and ready for Anchors. 
 
Note: 2mm Triple Blocks 
 
Cheers 🍻 

Yesterday, I airbrushed the fairing, gas tank and rear. For the parts, I used Tamiya´s LP bright red with Mr. Color pink primer as a base. Today, I started decaling, which worked well. The Tamiya decals were easy to use and the carrier film is nearly invisible. The tiny rivets on the seat proved to be difficult to apply. I used a flat cut toothpick with low tack double sided adhesive tape, which helped a bit



Cheers Rob

YES! Working on a pair of Catheads now. Drilling out the triple block in the end is challenging. CAN’T WAIT TO START RIGGING. I think some blocks will have to be a painted knot 🪢 LOL 😂 

 

Spider Band on the Mizzen Mast…
 


CHEERS 🍻 
 

Well now the experience Begins- my first Build Log. This is a little retroactive. I have been working on this for a while now. The goal is to a vintage plastic kit and upgrade it using wood ship model techniques. This will include adding wood and/or parts to replace bad detail and incorrect items.  Use  plastic eye, bolts, “T” cleats, deadeye assemblies and chain plates. A laser cut wood deck will be applied and the top mast and upper gaffs will bs remade with wood. As I am building this to represent the America as she crossed the Atlantic, life boats will be added as well as a binnacle.
 
 Why a vintage kit. The first production runs have the best detail. Ihe plastic is strong, but brittle. You need to to use a strong liquid plastic  cement to ensure a good bond.There is little flash  oh the parts. Sink-holes are  few and far between. The major hull seam should be backed up with epoxy. You really do not want seams springing apart when your project is finished. Old plastic is also very hard and difficult to sand.
 
Why this subject? My research found many comments indicating that rigging was accurate and that this was a good introduction to the hobby. I built Revell’s 1:96 Cutty Sark and USS Constitution when I was a teen an relish the opportunity to do better.
This is the end of installment on. More will follow soon.

Great model so far HOF. As Ian mentioned in an earlier post, Underhill’s masting and rigging book may be a really good investment at this point in your project. I have been using it with my own model and it has really helped. I see it listed on Abe Books for less than $20US. With your model at the very early stages of rigging, it will make your life much easier and you can rig it with greater accuracy and confidence. All the best going forward!
Peter

Naturally the first step is to paint the propellor… from the pics I’ve found it’s a wooden laminated prop. 

I painted the propellor buff colour and used a stationary pencil and moved the propellor against it to draw 2 lines to show the layers. It’s 4cm long so was a bit fiddly. From the pics the middle layer is the light colour, so painted the outer layers with a darker brown acrylic.
 

Then once dry covered it with dark brown oils and let it dry for a bit before brushing the oil off to try give a wood grain effect. I’m fairly happy with it and will give it a few days before I seal it in after any touch ups I think it needs with a clear coat. It blends the two shades together well! 
 

 
To me it looks like a wooden prop 

Little more progress on the chair
 
 turning on the taig lathe is fun but challenging. 🤣🤣
 

 
 

What I especially like about bike kits are the different metal finishes, you need to let it look realistic. Here, I used aluminum, titanium a mix from jet exhaust and copper and chrome, all from the AK Extreme Metal range. Chrome got a undercoat of gloss black, the others were sprayed directly onto the plastic.
I was lazy, avoiding masking and sprayed the 3D printed chain in aluminum complete with the chain sprockets. The chain should look like steel and was therefore treated wit a heavy dose of black panel liner, followed by Uschi chrome pigments, which I rubbed in. The tyres received a treatment with a grey Flory wash, to enhance the detail and let them look a little less plastic like. The fit and engineering is still fantastic and putting together the kit is pure joy.







Cheers Rob

Time for an update… Progress is slow, I just haven’t had the time to work in the shipyard. Sealed the deck stain and white acrylic with Testors Clear Gloss Acrylic. 

Stepping the Masts
 
Tapering the Mizzen Lower Mast utilizing my drill chuck lathe. 😎

Building the Lower Mast Head. 

Continuing with the Top Mast Triple Tree.  

Mizzen Mast completed. 




Cheers 🍻 
 

Today, I finished the second wheel, but somehow, it was a chore. I had lots of difficulties to fiddle in the shorter spokes, one half being a fraction of a millimeter to short, the other half too long, that they needed heavy bending, to get them into the rims holes. Anyway, it´s done now and looks better than the plastic wheels for sure.



Cheers Rob

Those flaps and slats caused a bit if fun whilst masking and painting Alan! - Still nearly all done now. 😁
Pictures below of where I have got to over the last week or two,  apologies for the lack of updates, work/life getting in the way...
I Used Colourcoats Enamels, gloss coat then Flory Models washes and decals, then a few light flat coats. 
Now the fun bit of final assembly and seeing if all that canopy glass is still clear!
I did hunt around for pictures of the actual aircraft and there is a nice sequence of "KJ-L" in formation with other Lysanders of 16 Squadron, which I assume is where Airfix also took their inspiration; note the lack of RAF roundel on the wing upper surfaces.  Looks odd without them, but also "different" which is refreshing.
A few minor bits still to go on, but they are all a bit fragile, so will go on after those wings are in place.
Think the next update will be the big reveal, just hope I can get the wings on straight! 😆
 
Thanks for the comments and likes.

And then there was one.  Tonight I finished the planking on this project.  It came with a lot of frustration and cuss words.  The sanding and filling and more sanding will begin tomorrow .  It looks rough but the ugly duckling may turn out to be a swan.

With the problems with the tracks behind me progress has been steady. The last serious photo etch was the baskets for the jerrycans. They were actually fairly easy to make using a folder and the cans fitted without causing any distortion.

The tool kit was painted and added. The saw didn’t actually seem to be needed.

I wanted to show the tank as the winter warms up, the white camouflage is deteriorating and the tank is plowing through mud. 
I used powdered ceramic bricks from my Aedes Ares Loarre Castle model, mixed with some white glue, water and brown acrylic paint. This was then applied with a stiff brush and cleaned up with cotton buds where I had got too enthusiastic. I may have been too liberal with the effect but I think it works and it does cover some of the issues with the track assembly.

I think this is finished and it’s time to go back to HMS Iron Duke and some serious PE.
Thanks for looking in, the likes and comments.
alan
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Too bad you're on the opposite side of the world......I have two copies!  I thought I'd lost the first, bought the second, then found the first months later. I suppose I should try to sell it on. It's a limited market.

Harry, do you have a copy of Underhill's  "Masting and Rigging the Clipper Ship and Ocean Carrier"?
 
A great reference for such ships.  I bought it to help with rigging my Preussen.

I found rigging the bowsprit a challenge.  Hopefully the rest will be easier, although not sure about that!
Rick

Rigging looks daunting, but as you go through it in manageable pieces it all comes together in the end, so long as you have good instructions. 😏

Harry...fine work, however, I don't mean to be a Debbie downer, but your chain guys, port and starboard are too long.  They should terminate on the hull, just in front of the catheads.  Otherwise, the anchor would become fouled in them.  They are behind the Catheads and cross right under the catheads.  Making raising and lowering the anchors very problematic.  Do you see?  Sorry.
 
Rob