JSGerson
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Everything posted by JSGerson
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Of the 100 or so completed models I have images of, only one was unpainted; a scratch built model by Peter Henrick Ness. Sorry, I did not record where I found them.
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Thanks Geoff, a very informative log! For those who do not want to search for the site, here is the link. Jon
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Schooner, unfortunately you did not provide a link to the "Glenn-UK's build log for HMS Sphinx." I tried to locate it, but was unsuccessful. Would you be so kind as to indicate how to locate his build. Thanks, Jon
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I just found this "new" build log by Thrasher on Ships of Scale. He is dusting off a build that he's been working on and off for 10 years and is just starting the Bentinck shrouds. You might want to see what he is going to do. Jon
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Just remember, it's a model, not a miniature replicate. Do what you think works best for the look you want. Good luck and have fun! Jon
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Here are some photos that may (or not) help you.
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DAR - Because the hull is going to be painted, I think I have a simple solution. On the subsequent strakes, increase the width a bit of a couple of planks in that area until the 'waviness" disappears. Add a little wood filler if needed and the smooth it out so the wood strakes blend and you can't see any creases. The paint will cover any evidence of the unevenness and it will disappear. Hope this helps. Jon
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Wood filler was my best friend too!😁
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USS Constitution by mtbediz - 1:76
JSGerson replied to mtbediz's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Just so you know for comparison, The MS kit provides 37mm long guns and 23mm carronades. How accurate they are to the actual guns at scale, I don't know. Speaking of guns, the actual ship does not have her original guns but replicas mostly installed in 1927. By 1897 on her 100th birthday, she no longer carried any guns. The carronades that most likely represented the ones used in the War of 1812 (an 1808 design) are the ones with a screw adjustment for raising and lowering the barrel. These replicas were installed in 1981. The ones using a wedge for that purpose are of the 1840 era and are more technically called gunnades. As I understand it, the idea is to eventually replace the gunnades with the more accurate carronades sometime in the future. Just thought you might want to know, Jon. -
This is in essence how I planked my hull. A lot of “How to” articles and build logs use the tick mark method and proportional wheels or dividers. I just could not draw a pencil line on the hull that precise and get a strake to properly taper and fit. Like you I mathematically determined the width of the strake at every bulkhead point and sanded away, checking with the micrometer. I just didn’t do it with a nice spreadsheet. I worked each strake, one at a time, marked the determined widths on a piece of scrap paper. Once done, I discarded the paper. You did a fine job. Jon
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USS Constitution by mtbediz - 1:76
JSGerson replied to mtbediz's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
I did a similar method only I didn't have a mill cutter lying around, so I used my Byrnes Saw. You made that process look so easy. neat, and clean. Well done! Out of curiosity, where did you get your brass cannon barrels from and what size did you get? Jon -
g8rfan - Actually, I have looked at HO figures, but I've never transformed a human figure's clothing/look into something that reasonably looked like someone else. I don't have that artistic talent; but it's not out of the realm of possibilities yet. I've got a long way to go before I'll could use them, so I still have time to consider other possible solutions. Thanks though, for the suggestion.
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USS Constitution by mtbediz - 1:76
JSGerson replied to mtbediz's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
DAR, we may be both correct. I checked the US Navy plans and the wale does exist but is not as pronounced on the surface of the hull as the MS plans make it out to be. At best, the wale bumps out at its thickest point about 3.5" from the hull or about 3/64 at scale." and even that change is not as abrupt as the MS plans show. To see that fine detail in very old images is unlikely.
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USS Constitution by mtbediz - 1:76
JSGerson replied to mtbediz's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
The simple reason is that it is thicker on the actual ship as well as it is on the plans. I'm no expert on ship design, but I assume the added thickness is for added strength when docking and bumping into things. These ships are often rolled on their sides for maintenance too. See foreshortened image below.
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USS Constitution by mtbediz - 1:76
JSGerson replied to mtbediz's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
The transom like other parts of the ship changed over the years, so I hope these images help. The close-up image is present day, The image with windows sashes was 1914. I believe the sashes were removed after the 1927 renovation as seen in the 1934 image with two guys in a row boat. I also gave you a historic montage as to some of the changes that took place. Jon
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USS Constitution by mtbediz - 1:76
JSGerson replied to mtbediz's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
I've always had a hard time bending wood without kinking, cracking, or breaking. It was for those reasons I used the very flexible Styrene plastic on my model for the curved modeling. However, I wasn't too pleased with the mediocre results. The CA glue made the plastic brittle. What wood did you use and how did you soften it up to bend it? BTW, wonderful job! Jon -
Now the fun part begins!🙃
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A lot simpler method than I did and probably just as effective to the typical observer. Looks good so far. Jon
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I've spent many hours researching through my photo library, Google, a multitude of build logs (both finished & in progress) and yet for some reason, my model doesn't look any different than it did before I started hours ago. Is that considered time spent building the model? Jon
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Gregg, I'm not certain which build log website you could not find so here are the three sites we have been talking about: Usedtosail xKen Modeler12
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Ken, A lot of builders rigs their guns minimally for aesthetics. Things look nice when they are neat. I want the detail, so by the time I'm finished with the gun deck, I expect it to be an OSHA nightmare 😁. How those guys back then worked around all those ropes, chains, clutter, noise, smoke, etc. and still were able to conduct ship warfare effectively enough to never lose a battle is amazing. Jon
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I believe, that for the most part, it's personal preference. He may have believed that delaying planking the rest of the model at this point may avoid unnecessary repairs later on due to the delicate nature the hull copper cladding. Because I've added the gun deck among other details to my model, I've bounced around his instructions and even substituted other builder's methods I've read about in their logs. Mr. Hunt does a great job for some details, and skips lightly over others. If you follow him religiously, you will end up with a decent model, but you may wish you had done something differently looking at other builds. I use his practicum as a guide, and as a bible. There is no real right or wrong method, just what works for you. Jon
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Hi Ken. long time, no post. It's great to learn you're back at the shipyard. I look forward to your forthcoming posts. For such physically small items, there are a lot of details to juggle when making all those gun carriages. Just remember, it's a hobby, so have fun. Gregg, you are correct, it's not a race. I've been working on this model since 2017 and was researching it even earlier. I still haven't seen the finish line! Jon
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Nice save. In your situation, I've would have handled it in the exact same manner. Out of curiosity, what kind of wood is your hull planking made of? It does present a unique visual pattern. Will it eventually be covered with a second layer of planking and/or paint and copper plate(?). Jon
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much appreciated, Gregg
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