JSGerson
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Once the glue, dried overnight, the bow was sanded to create a smooth surface, by beveling the installed pieces.
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Next, the header and sill for the bridle port were installed using 3/32” x 3/32” stock. Finally, the stiffeners were added also using the 3/32” x 3/32” stock
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After reading another build log, it was brought to my attention, that I should check the fit of the bowsprit. It was a good thing that I did. The dowel that will be use for the bowsprit did not fit. With the help of my rotary tool and a drum sander, that was quickly resolved. It is a lot easier to adjust that now, rather that latter.
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Bow Knightheads and Timberheads The bow knightheads and timberheads are those vertical structural members at the front of the ship. The knighthead is the member which is next to the stem. I didn’t know that as I had to look them up. Anyways, in order to follow the plans exactly as drawn, I continue to use copies of the plans as templates marking each piece with their appropriate identifications. The plans don’t specifically state use a particular piece of wood stock, so I checked with Robert Hunt’s practicum to see what he used. What he chose made sense; so, I did the same: Spar Deck Framing – 3/32” #1 - 5/16” x 3/16” #2, #3, & #5 – 1/8” x 3/16” #4 – 1/16” x 1/8” The practicum started with fitting and gluing the knighthead (#1) and then #5 to align the spar deck frame. I found it easier to install the spar deck frame first and then used it to align the remaining parts. After a lot of dry fitting of the pieces singularity and all together to ensure proper alignment, they were glued in with wood glue. What I noticed was that although I meticulously followed the template, the notches in the spar deck frame were not exactly the right dimensions. Some fudging had to be done.
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I was thinking that he could show us how to broadcast through the website, if it was possible.
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Try contacting Chuck. He's the best one to know since he runs the website.
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I live in Aiken SC, about 3 hours away or so from Lumberton. It would be nice to have a local group of fellow wooden model enthusiasts. Jon
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May I suggest that (if you haven't done so already) that you do NOT glue the bottom layer to the rest of the stack. This will allow you carve the interior of the hull a whole lot easier. Once that is done, then attach the bottom layer. Jon
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At this point, the templates were removed, and new ones for the notches were put on the top surface. These were for the gunports and head access frames. These were delicately cut out with an X-axto knife with a fresh blade. Even then, I managed to crack one of the blocks near the big edge notch. PVC glue was used for the repair and I waited 24-hours for it to set to ensure a strong bond. These were then glued into place.
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Bow Filler Blocks I had anticipated that the bow filler blocks would go as easy as the stern blocks. Well they did…and didn’t. The initial cuts on the scroll saw went as planned, following the pattern on the templates. Removing the remaining excess wood took a bit longer than I expected. After removing the remaining bulk of wood with the disk sander, I was constantly checking the block on the bulkheads to see if a plank would fit around the curves. The one thing I feared was taking too much off or taking any material off in the wrong place. So, a little bit at a time, with constant checking, using just files, I believe I managed to get the proper shape. This took quite a bit of time. Patience, tenacity, and perseverance are the key.
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Geoff, you are so right. That is why I haven't posted anything yet for the bow filler blocks. I keep testing and finding I need to remove juuuuusst a bit more here and then there. So I'm taking my time. Jon
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Mike - Surprisingly, I did not find it that difficult. However, That can not be said of the bow filler blocks, for me at least. Pictures and commentary to follow soon.
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Just found your build log today. There is some real good stuff here so I'll be following you with great anticipation of more good stuff. Jon
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Just discovered your build log. I look forward to following your progress as I am a few months behind you. Jon
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Those boats are fun little projects. I did mine first as an appetizer for the main course, the ship itself. Even though the MS kit's plans were very close to the US Navy plans (CD from the museum), I used the US Navy plans directly when ever I could. Jon
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At this point, the stern counter and the filler blocks were glued into place. Any final sanding adjustments still must be made.
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For the last bit of carving, I used the sanding disk, the rotary tool with a sanding drum, files, and sandpaper.
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I don't know about anyone else, but I was getting an error message and could not log on for three days. Finally, somehow, everything is back. Stern Filler Blocks The stern filler blocks have a lot of curves and compound curves at that. Again, using the kit plans as templates, the appropriate template was rubber cemented to the appropriate sides of the raw basswood blocks. Using my vintage Dremel scroll saw of almost 40 yrs. old, the S-curve cuts were made. To make those cuts, my saw took about ten minutes each block. I don’t know if it was the thickness of the blocks, the fact basswood was being cut, the saw itself, or all of the above, but it got done. For those of you who are interested, the saw is a Cat. 572, Deluxe Moto-Shop 15”. The picture I got off the internet shown below, is a good representation of mine. I was just too lazy to set up a shot to get a portrait of mine.
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I like the look of the exposed gun deck. It's something like I did on my Rattlesnake. I'll be following your lead for this part on my Conny build, but at 76.8 scale. That should be interesting.
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zappto - thanks for joining the group
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The top surface is slightly rounded, dropping down at the sides. I used a sandpaper block to create the curve. The aft edge has a slight rounded profile in the plan view which was create by carefully following the lines on the template. The aft edge is also angled in at about 50 degrees which as it turns out is the maximum my disk sander will handle. By keeping the wood flush to the plate and slowly feeding it into the spinning sanding disk using lines I drew on the sides as guides, a nice edge was obtained. Finally, the aft edge has a rounded bottom corner but an angled top corner. This was created with the sandpaper block. At this point, I got a very pleasant surprise, when I placed the completed transom filler block and dry fitted it on the stern post, it fit like a glove on the very first try. That doesn’t happen very often.
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There is a rudder post hole which must be drilled at a slight angle parallel to the stern post. This is easier done now, before the aft edge is created. I found that if I taped a bamboo skewer to the forward edge I got the right pitch for the hole. Using my Dremel drill stand, I drilled a pilot hole with consecutively larger drill bits until I used the largest bit that would fit in the rotary tool. The resulting hole was still smaller than the required 5/16” diameter I needed. This was done using a full-size hand held electric drill with the 5/16” bit. I would have used a drill stand if I had one of the proper size, but the pilot hole did its job.
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Transom Filler Block Using the kit plans as a template, the plan view was pasted with rubber cement onto a piece of basswood supplied by the kit for this piece. The transom filler block was cut out using the Byrnes saw.
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The bulkheads were installed one by one using a set of heavy angle irons I got from Micro-Mark when I started my Rattlesnake. After I took this picture, I rotated the angle iron onto its side, so I could clamp to both the bulkhead and the keel. I just forgot to take another photo.
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Continuing with the keel modification, the three masthead notches were extended 3/32” to compensate for the gun deck modification. Technically this did not have to be done because once the plywood and decking are installed and mast hole are drilled, the length of mast notches should match the original length of the notch cavity. I just wanted additional strength. I just have to remember to extend the base mast lengths by 3/32”.
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