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Tidbinbilla

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    49
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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Wisconsin
  • Interests
    Pre-war automobiles, esp. Model T's.

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  1. When I started building this model, I had no idea of how addictive it would become!! After completing the hull this Spring, I boxed up my workspace and moved it into the garage where it was to be stored until Fall. Well, that did not work out... This has been a really busy summer with household chores, maintenance, etc. Well I still found time to play with the Conny! It started out small by doing one of the long boats. Then another. Then another. Then they were all done!!! Next came the foremast! While refinishing my wife's vanity, the bowsprit and jib booms got built!! Thanks t
  2. Geoff, I just ran across the instructions for this model. Let me look at them and get back to you...
  3. The hull is complete! It has taken just about a year to get here and it has been a most fun and interesting journey. Its been an enjoyable learning experience. Actually, I never imagined myself getting this far. This is my first full ship build and way above my "pay grade"! But, I love this ship! And, building a wooden model is on my bucket list. Of course, without the help of Bob Hunt's Practicum and fellow members on this forum, I never would have got to first base. I'm truly indebted! Now, I've put the Conny away until Autumn sets in and all the Summer activities fade away. I'll s
  4. Jeff, Here are some photos I took of the way I connected the chainplate to the deadeye. I trimmed the chainplate so the loop would be hidden by the channel. The photos do not show it but the loop was squeezed shut after connecting it to the deadeye. I super glued the loop to itself and the wire to the deadeye. When attaching it to the ship I glued the chainplate bottom to the ship and the deadeye/chainplate connection to the channel. Hope this helps... Dave
  5. Hi Jon, Point well taken. I mulled over that, too! So far, I've had no collateral damage. Once the chainplates are installed, it may be a tight squeeze to fit some of the lids... Thanks, Dave
  6. Hi Jeff, Yes, I can do that! I'm planning on doing some ship building later on tonight, so will try to get some photos taken then. Thanks, Dave
  7. In spite of all the outside worked being done this Spring, I've managed to make some progress on the Constitution. Gun deck cannons, lids, some of the carronades, channels and chainplates are in. For the most part, I followed Bob Hunt's Practicum, except for the chainplates. After several failed attempts to solder the dead eyes to the chainplates, I gave up. Thanks to other members on the forum, I followed what they did. I set the chainplate in position and then gently bend it back onto the channel to mark the length. I looped it back on itself and threaded a length of wire through which
  8. Oops!! That did not go well. Now I've got a problem to solve!! Luckily, I am having the lids closes for one port, so whatever the solution it will be behind close doors. Not so much for the other port! Something will show up I just have hid it well. I guess I should have used more glue!!
  9. As much as I would like to take credit for this neat little trick, all accolades must go the following. Go to pages 2 and 3 to see what he did. Simple and ingenious!! https://modelshipworld.com/topic/13740-great-republic-by-rwiederrich-four-masted-extreme-clipper-1853/
  10. I finished applying the copper plating. I used a technique developed by a fellow member to simulate the nail heads. It was a simple combination of chicken wire, a drywall sand screen and an old clothes wringer. I cut off 6 inch strips of tape and ran the tape, wire and screen through the wringer! I got the precise look I wanted! A little touch up is needed and then its on to the next step!!
  11. Thanks for your empathy! It is encouraging to know that even seasoned veterans like yourself will at times struggle with these models! At 72 years, the hands, fingers and eyes are not what they once were. This being my first - and last- advanced model, building it is a real challenge but enjoyable just the same.
  12. I finished the head rails or the head rails finished me! That was excruciating! The third rail was the challenge. I used two approaches: build the rail first then the timbers and via versa! The latter was a tad bit easier. I used a piece of styrene as a mock rail when fitting the timbers and then used my wood bending tool to shape the rail. To my surprise the top rail was the easiest. Re the hawse pipes. I added a filler piece between the knees to which I fit the pipes rather than directly into the hull. I did not see this piece in the instructions buy knew of it from some photos I
  13. I finished up the galleries using styrene as outlined by Bob Hunt. The really small trim was difficult to handle- even with a good pair of tweezers. I ended up gluing a l longer than needed piece in place and then just trimmed it with a sharp xacto. Some touch-up paint and they will finish up nicely. The stern details were added. I used the kit molding - it mated up well to the gallery styrene. The stars gave me stars by the time I had made six good ones after "umpteen" attempts! The "CONSTITUTION" was done free-hand. I painted the entire piece white and then went in with a 6-hair pain
  14. Well, I finally finished planking the hull. No real drama here, either! My faring was a lot better on this side as I only had a couple small areas to sand down/build up. Painted the outside flat black. Experimented with a satin or semi-gloss finished - so far the latter looks best. I did the galleries next. I was intimidated by these but they proved to be easier than thought! I used the window panes supplied in the kit. I built the frames first and then just trimmed the openings to fit the panes. Once I apply the white trim, any alignment issues should disappear. I'm going to complet
  15. I've made some progress on the hull. I planked one side without much drama. I divided the planks into about 6 belts which made it easier for me to manage the work and make corrections as I went. I had the usual tapering at the bow and stern. My fairing was OK but ran into some low spots around the last two belts. Nothing major so I just used some glazing putty from my body shop supplies to fill in the low spots. Used 80 grit to shape hull. Will finish with 220, 400 before applying Jesso. I'm happy with my first attempt at planking a full hull (did a bow section earliler)
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