foxy
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Had my glass case delivered and it will now keep the dust off the ship. Then its to the sails, I am using cloth sails for this ship with the lower main/foremast being furled. This will entail bunting lines/blocks. To that end I have added bunting loops in the hope that all will work and draw up the cloth sails!!!!. First the ropes added, note there are no details to this fore course sail or the main one. Added then to the yard shown from the rear. From the front you can see the bunting blocks which I hope will work, 'well the ropes go through them'. Not starched these sails, but all the unfurled will have the tapes,strengthening bars added. Frank. -
Any new developments Evan. Still following what is a very interesting project on this Iconic ship. Frank.
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Cheers Frankie. Have taken another look at your sail building and have some of your pictures saved to get reference from. AS you can see I have been following it very closely. Thanks for explaining the technic aspect of this and very usefull it has been. I can see you have been a long time in working on this side of sailing ships. That's what this and other forums are for, so we all, if interested, can learn from others. Thanks again. Frank.
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Thanks OC . Well as most British warships had white sails were possible, but hob/sense licence can be applied here . A better picture of the tops so far. Just to finish the ratties and then its sails/yards. Most done on the yards, but might add sails to yards first before mounting.'we shall see'. Frank.
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Well need a little advice on the sails. The lower one's will be furled, the others will be billowing. Now my question is what spray starch or hair spray should I use for the cloth sails. I am thinking on using the Heller plastic one's and laying the cloth sails over and spray, leave to dry then add tapes and blocks etc, 'well that's the plan'. Any advice would be most welcome and appreciated. Frank.
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Hi Ronald. I to can help ,Having most of the Build for the 180 Victory pictures saved. If you start a build log and don't mind me showing pictures of the build that's relevant to your questions on your log. For some of the build I used Scale Warship(UK) etched parts, most for the netting and shrouds, they do a set for the 180 Victory ship. I would be happy to help if I can. Frank.
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Hi Ronald. Well as for getting a good representation of this ship from OOB, its up to the modeler. I started this project because of the challenge in producing all three fighting decks with there detail. After seeing Daniels etched/resin set and liking scratch building, I decided to take the plunge. Having little or no experience of sailing ships I purchased some books after chatting with more experienced ship builders. It is from this that I have got so far in the build. Weather it be larger scales it means more detail. I started with the Airfix 180 scale Victory. From that experience I went onto the bigger 1/100 Heller ship. I messed around with all sorts on that earlier build. Thus made a diorama with it in the end. So what I am trying to show is anything is possible. Just have ago. You would of course be better with an English speaking plans, but if you have some books, then they will help out. I hope this helps you in deciding which way to go. Frank.
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Radar it is, with a lot of protection. Not seen that before,'protection that is'. Lovely work so far Dimitris ship mate. Frank.
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Hi Ronald. The Paints I am using are APS9014W HMS Victory Set. These are water based and very good, you get all the colours needed for this ship. I used a primer first on the plastic hull and then sprayed the colours needed. I got these from Cornwall Model Boats Ltd Unit 4D, Highfield Rd Ind Est. Camelford. Cornwall. PL32 9RA United Kingdom. Phone- 044-01840211009 I am not sure if the first three numbers are right, so maybe check these when phoning from the states. I also use Life color water based paints for this project. For the Lathe. Its a Proxxon- DB 250. They do a fantastic range of tools that are use full for modeling. Frank. Hope this helps you find what your looking for. Two more pictures of the hanging(futtocks)shrouds. Foremast Mizzen mast. Some tidying up to do, then other side. Thanks again folks for all your Interest, most appreciated. Frank.
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Thanks Frank, Mark. Yes the stove was fun to work out and thats half the fun, ain't it. Well moved on a tad with the overhanging shrouds(futtocks). Used a small piece of brass rod and Dafis etched parts. So as not to bore you I will finish this side and the other before more pictures. Frank.
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Hi Ronald. The photo etch comes from Dafis wonderful etched sets. If you contact him I am sure he will help you. Just hit on his sig and send a message. As for the wood deck, well its 2mm and 3mm I used and came from Cornwall model boats. Just type this in and you should be able to find there site. I used maple wood for this build. Moving on with the stay's done for standing rigging its time for the ratlines to be done. I thought in this scale that if I tied them it would be oversize. So the simple way seemed the best. Just glue to the shrouds. To save time and glue I did all the shrouds with three rows, then left to dry and cut off the excess. This is time consuming but it works!!!. One other thing I did was to move the Anchor rest forward between the first two chains, this allowed the anchor to sit right later. Frank.
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Hi Rich. 1/72 is a larger ship, looking at your first picture I would say that was a good representation for size. Diamond as you say. Stitched to a wood or brass runner across the top should look nice and neat. Frank.
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Cheers for that Daniel, well can remove ok and will add your version. Well its Organised Chaos at the moment with one side of the stay ropes done. For the blocks I am using Syren 3mm and 2mm for the lesser ropes, with Dafis eyelets already positioned. The main top. Running down to the channel. Some of the chaos on the deck. The shrouds on the top masts are run through the top and left loose at the moment. The tuther side is next with the blocks made up, so should be faster. Frank.
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One question on the last picture, this shows a raised part block on the sprit bow above the marine walk. Looking at many pictures, there does not seem to be this item. Can anyone help weather this needs removing or not. What's its purpose if so. Frank
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Great work Henry. Wonderful work going on here. Been toying with the Idea of getting this ship. But with Victory and Connie later, I can't get me head around another ship. So seeing your build makes up the difference.(so I tell my self) Frank
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Thanks very much Lawrence, much better now thanks . Well have been busy of late with all the top ropes strung. Left loose till main stay ropes have passed over mast/shroud. Then tightened up. With the main stay ropes in place. One point is the main stay ropes to the bowsprit. As all know they pass through the bowsprit and then attach to block and tackle. For those doing this build, its advisable to add the blocks near the knights head before adding the netting and booms. This will be a lot easier. The blocks I used for this were of Syren manufacture and can move if ness. Next its the stay ropes from masts to channels etc. This is the sequence I am following for this static build. Having good plans of the rigging helps, so far its standing rigging I am working on. Thanks guys for all your imput and likes. All the best Frank.
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Thanks Lawrence, There are so many good builds here its a job to take them all in. Yours is no exception. Hi Ronald. The deck planking are 2mm and 3mm, mostly 2mm wide maple. I got mine from Cornwall model boats(England), there 1'000 in lengths, but they cut them down to export. The lathe is of German make and I believe I got this from Axmister tools in England. I am sure you could also get these in the States too. Hope this helps. Moving on a touch with the top shrouds. Keeping them loose on the running rigging till all done, then its the stay's to tension up and then tighten up the shroud runners. You could if you wanted to make all adjustable, but as this is a static model all will be fixed. Frank.
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Well its been a bit hard going, as I should have done the fire buckets earlier, anyone having a go at this should think on this. Now having enuff KG etched crests(thanks to Daniel)I started thinking on how to place them with the shroud ropes done. I added a strip of plastic from the tops left over part, stuck this behind to the top of the plastic rear bulkhead of the poop deck. Then used plastic glue to hold buckets, later will add CA to the handles. Later when all settled will paint handles and surrounding area black. Next its on to the upper shroud ropes. Used .63mm for the lower and for the upper will use .30mm black. For both shrouds I will use .08mm for the ratlines. Frank.
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Thank you Daniel. Tis to the fire buckets using dafis etched KG parts. First how NOT to remove fire buckets from spru. Note bad cuts to the rear of the buckets. Use a proper cutting tool and leave a little to file to shape. The KG etched parts were formed with round pliers. Should look like this. Twenty one are needed for the quarter deck, but a few extra will help later for the crew to carry maybe. The buckets come in black plastic, but to make a difference I painted them leather(as new). They were tarred inside and later outside. 'My choice'!!!!. Frank
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Well its to the tops I be going. Removed the DE etched parts from Dafis fret and found some of the deadeyes loose. So after making sure all was fixed down ship shape I then filed the burrs off both ends of the etched parts. Drilled out the holes in the tops so the etched futtock shrouds would push fit through the holes. Left loose till later. Then its six aside for the Fore and Main tops. four aside for the Mizzen. Now I know why I did not complete the ratlines yet, is most fiddly at this point to secure ropes etc to the belaying pins. With that in mind and having Dafis etched motives for the fire buckets, its to that I am next working on. . More soon shipmates. Frank.
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Thanks for the advice JCF. Not using any of the plastic ring bolts(P40), but the use of wire at this point is!. 'So thanks for that'. Frank.
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Thanks guy's,' yep', on the mend. Well with the lower shrouds done its to the tops we are. Using Dafis etched parts and Heller deadeye's. I have glued the deadeyes to the etched frames, no need to worry about size as there all the same,'phew'. Note the hooks below, these are for the futtock shrouds, will attach ropes to these before hooking to the main frame of theDEs. One other thing you may need to file the Heller tops to fit etched parts, Dafi does suggest gluing these in in his hints and tips. Very good advise. Frank.
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Sorry for the delay in posting pictures, had a spot of time in hospital. So its back to the Victory again. With a picture of the mouse and eye for the main stays. Was very small to make, but I think it came out all right. Next its the sails in progress with 8 more to make. Still to add the tassle's and blocks. More to come soon me thinks. Frank.
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Cheers Daniel. Nice way of putting it. . Thanks Mark. Been thinking on those lines,thanks to Daniel. Getting more Interesting by the day with new territory to explore for me. Frank
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Well after a few hours work the foremast shrouds are done. Plus the main and fore stays/preventer. Plus some more etch arrived today and a surprise from Daniel, most welcome it was too. I am sure you will recognise these two navel chaps. Frank
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