foxy
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Thanks Keith mate. Yep thinking that to a while back. But had another bit of advice. That is to have pictures of the interior and show beside ship model, so folks can see what has been built inside. I have the complete build saved on separate external hard drive . Can make smaller and an A4 can show one deck, so two A4s should be enuff. Have not decided yet on the lighting!!!!. Frank -
Well moved on and finished panels to the sides, now working on the inside panels. Bit like a jigsaw puzzle. Once all done can fit together. Also started the rear window display, first the back bench that runs along windows. Shown in a diff light. Surprising how the light makes it look. The beams etc will all be this colour with brass decoration. red curtains. Frank.
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That sure is coming along popeye. Great looking decks.( thinks he may have given me food for thought on my ship.) When I first sore the pictures of the first coat before drying, 'ouch'. but once dry it really looks great. Frank
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Still onto the Admirals quarters with the panelling in sleeping, dining and day room. Making the panels from plastic card and wood. Two layers to get panel effect. Hats off on this deck. Will paint light green and brass decoration. Made up two of the three sections, with the dinning to do. Frank
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Having built this ship, maybe some pictures might help you in positioning the diff colours. For the deck I used real maple wood, but Tamiya do a deck tan paint that replicates this. I hope these help you in your work. Foxy
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Well been at it again, this time finished the wood inside and now working on the Admirals quarters. Most know the layout for this end on the Victory. But will be panelling the sides and paint very light green. For the stern I will be panelling mahogany and a seat the length of the stern windows. One important point is if your detailing the interior then leave off doing the gun hatch's till later. The damage is superficial and can be sorted later. Also adding carpets to the floor, that black and white pattern is very bad on the eye's!!!!!. Next its the hanging kness of which I need 64 for the upper/forecastle and more for the Captains quarters. Done 88 so far. foxy
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Thanks Keith shipmate. Yep she is moving along nicely now. Have noticed however from the real ship that the belaying pins might be a tad short. But can live with that. Although I believe the ones shown in the picture are from a merchant sailing ship. Here's the tackle for the 12 Pdr guns and how they need to look. I think hemp rope will do the trick for these. One more picture to capture the ships wheel(done),the Binnacle(done)and the red boxes strewn about the decks. Plus must make up some lamps to hang from the rafters. The fire extinguisher is a modern addition. foxy
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I am Considering a Plastic Build and Need Advice
foxy replied to BANYAN's topic in Plastic model kits
G-Day Banyan. Have you tried ScaleWarship models, they just may have some of what your looking for. Type in ScaleWarship models and take a peek. 'Well its another option', might be a dead horse but worth a try. Foxy -
:Moved on a touch more with the 12 Pdr cannon. Added most items to these, there are 40 12 Pdr long and short for the upper/quarter decks. Next job was to add dafis trunnion caps, these have to be folded, so used a primitive jig for this. Finished the Anchors. Plus finished one side of the inner hull with wood. Next it will be the hanging Knees. Looking for some red boxes that adorn the ship and found some old AirFix ones. Plus some Cannon ball clusters. Then added the rest of Dafis etch King George motives. A handy little tray for keeping all them titchy parts. Foxy
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There is another that's very good for plastic, infact only for plastic. No I have nothing to do with the manufacture or sales of this product, but I do use it and its good. Plus it lasts a long time. foxy
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There is a car primer that is good for plastic, in fact for plastic only and grey/white are the main colours, but for most subjects that's all you need. This though is only in UK at Halfords store. Not sure if its over the pond. foxy
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Thanks very much Evan. Your build to is Beautiful work and I follow it with the same to settle on what I consider the truth in 1812th time. Look forward to more from your excellent build. Foxy
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Nice work and very good detail in tying the knot. In 1/100 scale it would be a little more difficult with fine thread don't you think. I CA the groove and lay thread over till dry then wind round thread and tie/ seize ether loop or long length. foxy
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That's a tricky question. You have to shake well and I add with a syphon one water to one from the pot. But all depends on how much paint you need for the job. smaller half and so on. I like to put on thin and do more once dry, find this not only dries quicker but coats on better without blobbing. That is running into bobs of wet paint. Some like to do it in a milky way, but find it clogs up easy on the gun, this paint dry's very quickly. Trial and error, I do first on a bit of waste to check its ok. In between I flush through gun with water, Iwata's is what I use. one with top lever and other with trigger. Top lever for fine and trigger for overall spraying. As I say its trial and error, but once you get the hang of it then your home and dry. Frank.
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Hi David. The smaller bottles are Life Color and the taller are Admiral paints, both very good. Easy to spray or use brush I find. Cheers Frank.
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Cheers David. Some more work on the Brace & Sheet bits. Found they were way to large and should be more in keeping with the pin rails. So removed the Heller plastic and replaced with evergreen. Also some of the paints I am using , all water based. More soon. Foxy
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Another update 0n the progress of Anchors, Knights head and belaying pins and racks/rails. Added brass belaying pins as they will be used later. Just waiting on a few more which arrived today. Frank
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I to added brass rod to my yards that were plastic, the rest made of wood with plastic outer extras. Makes it much stronger come the rigging/ blocks etc. Nice work there by the way on the blocks. foxy
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Following on from yesterday, today I finished the plastic strip on the hull, next when dry will ad the wood strip. Also started the Admirals quarters. Then it was a test of the bowsprit, this needed no assistance to stand on its own with out fixing. All though I had weights in case. Next it was Dafis resin Anchors there are six for this ship and have primed ready to spray black when all dry. Cheers Frank
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On again with the thickening the upper deck sides. Will add strips of plastic, then wood strips, this should give the correct thickness to the hull sides and allow the eyelets to grip for securing the guns. Also testing out the boom on the mizzen mast. Plus the making sure the masts sit right. Foxy
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Thank you Lawrence . Having near all the relevant parts and being retired allows me to do a little each day. plus this site has so much information even if its a wood build, the Victory is still the same ship in configuration. Plus I have the Victory model site by Pete Colman which is crammed with Victory detail. this and all the wonder full books out on this subject. How can I go wrong one asks, only in my skill as a modeller. These aids are there but its the modeller who determines how his model turns out. I am really enjoying this build for all the above reasons. I also like looking at others to get some idea for my own build, and there are so many very nice works of art here, you could spend all day/night browsing. Take your build for instance, makes me want to start my wood ship. Having built many ships with out sails, its a challenge indeed on one with sails. Regards Frank.
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Look forward to your step by step process Frankie. I to would like to put sails on my Heller 1/100 Victory, I believe they would look much better. I am thinking on using the Mantua sail cloth for this. Frank
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Learning one hell of a lot here, as I have to go down this road at some stage. Interesting stuff lads. foxy
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Then it was the turn of the upper deadeyes and chains. This time the deadeyes are all the same and the chain lengths, so added the deadeyes to the fret till needed. Having Dafis hints and tips is a great help, this I downloaded from his site. With it you cannot go wrong and having the relevant books makes this much easier. After removing the poop/quarter decks I found one or two problems will also ad some more plastic strip to the hull sides. Think I have the right planking this time. Also note the rope at the stern end, this is the rudder/tiller ropes that will pass up through to the ships wheel. Frank
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A little more progress, this time on the deadeyes and chains. I do have wood deadeyes, but the Heller ones go better with Dafis etched chains. Using his hints and idea's I came up with another that works for me. By using a pointer with a little CA around and press onto the etch chain. Managed to turn out all the mizzen/main and fore deadeyes in a couple of hours. A little Klear to seal and give a little shine later when all dry. Kept the rest of the etch chains on the fret till I need them for mounting on the hull. One very good point in Daniels hints is that you have to use the chains on the fret in sequence, and there are arrows ,names to follow for this. so making the dead eyes up is no problem. foxy
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