foxy
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Thank you very much Lawrence, much appreciated. 'Yep' Daniel has been a great help with his etch and advise. So have many others with there books/plans and above all research, research which is what I like most. Now on the Lower main yard with the lower fore yard mounted but still more to add when next upper yards mounted. Have held the main yard to the main stay so I can thread ropes from Bunting/leech lines to blocks under top. Found this the best way to sway up the yard to the mast with all ropes attached. As I am moving workshops to the Garage(more space), 'well relations coming and need both spare bedrooms'!!!! Plus sorting out a new kitchen layout. This may delay things what with the bad weather were having(light). Never rains but it pours . More soon me hopes. foxy -
Me too. Sounds a lot of work, but worth the effort. Good luck!!!!! Henry. Frank.
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Cheers Bob. Well moving along slowly slowly with the lower Fore yard mounted. Having to read from two/three books at a time makes this slow progress. Getting to the lower mizzen and main yards before showing any pictures. Plus very busy on other projects(Kitchen re-new) Keeps the wife happy too. Jack of all trades, master of none!!!!!. Frank
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Back to the hammock nets John. It might be a good Idea to have your batting in the nets to stop any mistakes, ie damage while building. You can always remove later and replace with hammocks or nothing. Cracking job by the way. Frank
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Great work Bob. Detail is every thing so they tell me, and you seem to have an abundance so far. The sacks should be interesting. Frank
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Cheers folks,' yep it was a Durrrr moment', but the model is quite sturdy, the only problem was the shrouds, but you live and learn,'so they tell me'!!!!. Well sorted all the hull problems and now its to the yards. Using Syren blocks has really made this job a lot easier, 'because they can move'. So stringing the ropes loose and then able to tighten up later is a great help. Foremast yard first with fourteen blocks to thread ropes through and be able to keep loose. Then two ropes to seize to the mast before tightening up. Then the other ropes can be attached. Also added the main/mizzen Stanchions to the tops plus the Admirals lantern, this using Dafis etched parts for the Lantern supports and stanchion supports. Hope to do all lower yards before tightening up to the masts, 'well that's the plan'. Frank
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Well back in the swing of it. Tidied up the StarB side and turned to do the port. Checked my intray of parts made up and found I had not added the Binnacle, 'Durrrrrr'. With the shrouds in place it was a struggle to get this fitted, 'so next time,' Bin before Shrouds'. The tie downs were the problem, but all went well. Now to the Port, 'No not the drink port, 'but maybe a good Idea lol'. Happy New Year folks. Frank.
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Sorry for your dilemma but it happens. Hope you get sorted soon KP. Frank.
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A ship of that type with treasure on board would not only have a sub crew but soldiers too. So 600 is not far out. But like chidokans comment. Frank.
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Thanks very much Mike. Well off for me break, so a little quite period on this build. Tidying up some of the mishaps, then its yards/sails on and finish the rigging. For the base I have a nice piece of oak and will put green felt to the base of the glass case. Must find someone to make a brass name plate. Then it may go to a museum in Falmouth Cornwall, where they display real relic ships of the past. Frank.
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Thanks Don,Bob. Dimitris and Mike . I was a little worried on the sails but Daniel was right in his help in getting this right. As for the parral's, they were something I had to solve. 'That's modeling'. Frank
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Well Mike. Congrats mate on your build and display. Seems we have the same kind of thing in mind, 'but you got there first', on your build and completion. Great work. Frank.
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Thank you guy's, much appreciated. Well have been struggling to make the parral's for the topsail yards. So, using plastic and brass I have managed to solve this problem. First made up the ash ribs from plastic. Then to keep all square/strait I used two brass rods and filed to size. In the spares box I had some brass tops that came from support railings, these had the holes already drilled. I always save these scrap things,'you never know when they may be usfull'. So now strung together. Making up two pair's of parral's for main and formast topsail yards. Some brown paint to finish and then mount. Frank.
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Work comes before pleasure, so look forward to some more on your build Evan. I hope to start thinking about my Connie as soon as I am near finished on the Vic. So your extensive build will be a great help for my 1812 build of this ship using the same material and scale ship as you. Through you I contacted BlueJacket and got many of the items plus the maps which will be very useful for the rigging. Great work and its nice to know your still working on it. Happy break Frank.
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Cheers Dimitris mate. After some suggestions from Daniel I have reworked the sails in a more fitting position. I like, hope you do. Working on tidying up the hull and refitting the crown on the stern. Then its on with the yards/sails after the break. All the best Frank.
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Looking good ship mate. All very neat and proper. Frank
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Cheers OC. Hi Bob nice to see you back here,' thanks mate' Well on to the folding sails. Sowed on the sails to the mast, fitted Syren bunting blocks and folded up the cloth to near the yards. Then sowed up near the yard and threaded rope through the bunting blocks. Once yard fitted to the mast, the ropes are pulled through the blocks on the lower tops and seized to the belaying pins. This then tightens the sail to the yard. Should do the trick. Frank
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Thanks OC. You might be right, not looked up that part of history. But for the build will have ensign showing somewhere. So I could put the White Ensign on the boom hallards, is that correct. Remove the standard flagstaff. 'Anyone know'. 'Since posting this on another forum, Dafi has come up with the answer. It seems a LT as OC said has the Ensign on the Gaff were the signal flags were normally used. So that's the plan, remove the flag staff and haul the ensign to the Gaff. 'Brilliant', thanks Daniel. Frank
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Hi OC. That was used for the signal flags. The main HMS flag was in Nelsons day carried on the rear staff. But Keith is right for lowering the flagstaff when spanker is in use. But for this ship it will be shown, frank
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That's very good Rich. Working in wood is a challenge and no mistake. Frank.
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'Yep'. That detail is a cracker. Love the work on these wood ships. So much goes into them. Frank.
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Cheers Keith mate. Believe it or not it can just lift out. But would like to show the Flag. Frank
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Thanks guy's. Still on the sails. Fore top sail with tassels added. Spanker. Syren Blocks all work but it will be static, makes putting together easier and would need a few men to work it. Putting the spanker sail on made me realise how to mount sails to yards, in the first picture I have sown rope to top then tied on, but with the mizzen boom I used needle and rope which looks much better, so will be doing this for all yards. Frank.
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Hi OC. I see you are planning on the metal bit for Warspite, this was not so, it was wood through out the decking. I I may show you some pictures of the Pontos decking for this ship. You will see it goes right through, If you are doing the Queen Elisabeth then the iron decking would be fine, this is where the AA turrets would be. Hope this helps. There were four ships of this type, but they differed from each other. Frank.
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