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rcmdrvr

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Posts posted by rcmdrvr

  1. I have not been actively participating in this forum for quite a while.  I retired a few years ago and got involved in building plastic models and dioramas.  Decided to get back to wooden ship modelling a short while ago.  I rummaged around in my stash and recovered this model of the Cairo that I had purchased several years ago.  I am a bit of a Civil War history buff and have read a bit about the "naval" battles on the Mississippi river.  I started this model a couple of nights ago and find that while it appears simple (low parts count, solid hull, etc.) it is turning out to be a more challenging project than I thought.  I guess I should count myself lucky, however, as I have not run into any "Huh" parts yet.  The instructions are not as clear as I would like and photos of steps would be more helpful than sketches.  It also looks like fit is also going to be a challenge.  Us old plastic modelers expect perfect fit with no seams.  Finally, a list of terms would help.  I had no idea what a "casement" was until I looked it up on the internet.

     

    While I did not expect to open a build log; I will if I can figure out how to do it.  Had a few logs a few years back so I should be able to work through it.  Cathead, as we move along; perhaps we can help each other and learn from our mistakes.  I will also send for those marked up plans.

  2. I have used all of the paints you list and all are very good.  The link you you gave lists conversions for Vallejo Model Color.  Vallejo Model Color generally does not like airbrushes (even when thinned) but is excellent for brushing.  Generally, you can airbrush most brands of acrylic paints (intended for plastic models) over other brands of acrylic paint as long as you have given the "base" coat ample time to dry.  If you are going to use any enamels or oil products for weathering, a clear coat over your paint base is recommended.

  3. Well, I have been working on the ships launches for almost two weeks.  The kit provided three metal launches.  I started by painting them to hide the shiny metal and that was a complete disaster.  I could not get the paint to stick and it would peal when I tried to glue the wooden parts to the interior.  I decided to proceed without the paint hoping that the wood would hide most of the metal.  The exterior hulls were planked and painted and then the interior built.

     

    I am not entirely happy with the result; as they only look OK.

     

    I am now starting the masts and rigging.  Just thumbing through the instructions is intimidating.  Well, here goes nothing!!

  4. It would probably more realistic to blacken the brass.  I tried painting on a previous model and was disappointed with the result; plus it chipped and scratched when I was rigging.

     

    I have wanted to try a blackening agent; but working with toxic chemicals is a little scarey.  I hear they liquid can cause burns and the fumes are caustic.  Does anyone have suggestions on a non-toxic blackening agent?

  5. I got a little upset about this log being hijacked.  Perhaps I over-reacted.  I will continue posting in hopes of some constructive comments.  I have continued with deck equipment and structures.  I round into difficulty that many of the dark (walnut) trim of the buildings crumbled when I tried to remove from die cut sheets.  Had to manually reconstruct many of them.  I enjoy working on deck stuff and there are plenty of it to be constructed in this model.

     

    Here is are some photo graphs that show the model stern to bow.  Tried to get in close with the camera so you can see some of the detail:

    post-13869-0-35793900-1485821152_thumb.jpg

    post-13869-0-76766000-1485821162_thumb.jpg

    post-13869-0-47777100-1485821175_thumb.jpg

    post-13869-0-34728300-1485821186_thumb.jpg

    post-13869-0-07585400-1485821200_thumb.jpg

    post-13869-0-46382100-1485821208_thumb.jpg

  6. I have been away from the modelling table for a while.  I did get some work done on the coppering of the hull.  I cut the copper tape into 4 inch long pieces.  I then used a spoked wheel(which you can see in the first photo) to simulate rivets.  I was happy with the adhesion of the copper strips to the hull.  The extensive rubbing did flatten the riveting a bit; but I think the effect is there:

    post-13869-0-10723400-1481409627_thumb.jpg

    post-13869-0-83346100-1481409641_thumb.jpg

    post-13869-0-86042000-1481409653_thumb.jpg

    post-13869-0-63978000-1481409664_thumb.jpg

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