Justin P.

Maturin;

I'm new to this site, but I have been modeling for some time (mostly scale rc airplanes). I too have a Puritan kit, and I'm thinking of building it someday soon.

 

Would you be interested in doing a team build on our models? Is that sort of thing even done here??

 

I'll follow your lead.

Regards,

John Cole 

Hi John, 

Thats a great idea, though like you both have sorted out, probably not something easily done.   I would be interested in some kind of simultaneous build log thing.  I think if not as a team it would at least be great to have someone to commiserate with  .  

I wont be starting for at least a month or two as I have to finish another project and make some adjustments to my work space to accommodate the larger size model.   Im viewing Puritan as a Fall/Winter endeavor and am just spending time looking over the instructions and plans and trying to wrap my head around what Im about to get myself into.  

Best.

 

This work is going faster than the lower deck framing, mainly because there are no knees on the pillars.  Patterns for the middle deck knees were also lofted more carefully using a different process - meaning the initial fits are better.  Also, deferring the lodging knees is probably more efficient.

 

 

 Ed

What I love about this log, is that I know or am familiar with very little, admire and respect much and spend a fairly decent amount of time simply looking things up that I didnt know I didnt know. 

Thanks Ed.  Slowly but surely Im understanding what "lofting" is and where/how it applies... 

I am back in Bristol so will go down to the Museum and see what they have 

Andy

Hey that would be great!   Thanks!  

Great information being shared here...    I guess a scroll saw is something I should put on my list.

Ill be following along.

One of my favorite build logs.   I learn everytime you post Ed.   Thanks.

Sorry no Pictures yet One of my early builds so waiting for my skill level to catch up with proper finishing needed soon time to restart though 

as for plans what are you looking for?

Andy

Ah I see.  Well Im sure the plans for the model will come packed in the box, but Im hoping to find/aquire a copy of the Edward Burgess plans of the original build by George Lawley and Son in Boston.  Ill likely follow the model plans closely, but would love to have the originals to compare details with. So far Ive not had much luck, but Im VERY new to this kind of research.  

Perhaps some of the NRG members around here might pipe in with some advice.   

My excuse for building this wonderful ship...

Thats a very cool connection.   Currently trying to track down plans of the "Puritan" for reference, if you have any leads let me know.  

Do you have any pics of your finished model?

Ah, I see you're a quick study Maturin - you'll do well in this Hobby. Don't forget, when discussing the cost of kits, tools etc with your wife, to amortise the cost over the time taken to build, and then compare that to other past times, like golf for instance. Your wife will be very appreciative of the economical hobby you have chosen and funds will be released immediately!

I finally got one of my partners to admit in front of the wife that his membership initiation in the country club was 24k.  She doesn't complain too much anymore when I buy a new book or tool.

This is all good to keep in the stores...  ha.    Now I just have to wait and see what happens when I bring Puritan into the house  .   It could go either way...  ha.

Beautiful yacht, I wouldn't call it HUGE, that might not be a term to use around your wife... perhaps you could use one of us as a scapegoat and mention the madmen on this site that are building hulls that are 5 or 6 feet long

Very true...  Ill be sure to point that out.   While it may not be so large by those standards, Its gonna be a colossus when Im trying to convince her to display it.   Keep in mind...   I do this work in the office/loft of our 700 sq ft. city apartment.   I will likely have to find some place to donate it in order for it to be seen once its built! 

Actually I believe if your admiral thinks a bit, she would be happy to have you at home close to her working at your little boat, instead of being away from home and having a beer with the friends, not to mention the risk of enjoying the gracious company of other ladies!

Actually this is more true than you know...   my other hobby is long-distance motorcycling, and so far convincing her that we need another trip out to the hobby shop has been much easier than convincing her that I need to take off for three days out to who-knows-where.    She is much happier with me tinkering away upstairs than being lost on some mountain back-road. 

Like the title says...  Oh dear.    Just snapped up a Mamoli Puritan 1:50 on ebay and an unbelievable price compared to what it went for at Model-Expo.   I just couldnt help it.   

Of course...  now Ive got a HUGE (35") boat to build!   I dont know wether to laugh or cry..   This may be my second or third build EVER.   Can you see why Im a bit freaked out. 

Im HOPING that it actually will not be as challenging as the fully rigged Constitutions and Victories, Im HOPING that the size will make a bit easier, Im HOPING my wife doesnt throw me out of the house.    Keep in mind Im just now working on a canoe!   I suppose I could set it aside and get some others under my belt, but if I bring home one more modeling book, model, tool my wife WILL throw me out of the house.  As it is Im going to have to sneak this behemoth in the door somehow...

A little advice on preparation for such a thing could go a long way.  Thanks folks.

Greetings Maturin,

 

I would eliminate right off the bat any that are made in China, unless there is no other choice. Yes, stuff made in China is cheap, but I have found in almost every case that it is garbage. Other than Chinese food, I go out of my way not to buy Chinese products because they are poorly engineered, poorly made, and the materials are inferior. My first choice is made in the U.S.A., but some Japanese and European stuff (re: German) can be good. The Chinese are good at making shirts and cheap plastic widgets - nothing that involves moving parts.

 

wq3296

 

I dont remember saying anything about China originally.  I can only suppose that your referring to the Dremel being of Chinese origin.   That would at least be following the theme of the original thread.   

Regardless of where its manufactured, Dremel is a good tool.   They are designed to be abused and can take a fair amount before failure...   I wouldnt hesitate to recommend a Dremel, I would though just mention that they could blow next week or ten years from now.  My Foredom is like an oak tree...  Im not sure it will ever fail, and until this moment never once contemplated its origin.   

As for American versus Chinese.....  thats a dirty pond Im not gonna go swimming in.  Dont believe everything your tag/box tells you.

I have these two and they are excellent

Those Ibex are great.   Nice shape too....   heres a source.

For anyone reading this since Bettina has already made a choice, the Veritas line of planes offered at Lee Valley are very good, heirloom quality tools as well.  They have a very nice mini-plane and spoke shave set that is a little less expensive than the Lie-Nielsen. 

I have the Dremel 4000 now with the drill press, shaft drive, and an assortment of odds and ends.   I love the dremel BUT I have burnt through three in my life having used them since 11 or 12, Im 32 now.   I view it as a necessary but not a particularly long-lived tool.

I ALSO have a Foredom that belonged to a friends grandfather (circa 1980's).  Works great, and I have a couple accessory handles.   I LOVE the variable speed pedal, and its solid dependable build.   I will second what has been said about the tendency for a Dremel to devour anything it can given the chance...   the variable speed pedal makes a world of difference it negotiating this risk.   I dont know anyone that has a Dremel previously belonging to someones grandad.   They just dont last as long...not an heirloom tool.  

One last comment...   I have always felt that a dremel is like duct tape.  Every house should have it.   

maturin, you are welcome.

 

There are a variety of fastenings visible.  Some are dummies for show.  Some are functional and contribute to the strength of the model.  All are based on the type, sizes and locations on the original ship - but usually in lesser number.  The functional bolts are copper wire that is epoxied into the holes from both ends forming very strong joints.  Most of the lower hull structural work is fastened in this way - bilge ceiling, deck clamps, keel, keelson, etc. .  One reason for this is to add strength so when the view ports are cut out their will be no problems.  Many of the copper bolts get blackened before applying finish.  Some are left copper.  Black monofilament is used for many bolts, glued in with CA.  Treenails are bamboo, glued in with dark glue.  These and some of the monofilament may add some strength to glue joints.

 

Ed

Hi Ed, 

Thanks so much for the that.  I had gone back through and read over your posts from the past but was still unsure of what was going on.   The amount of detail here is amazing.  Drilling all those holes for one, then filling them...   amazing.    I look forward to see how this project develops, though well beyond my pay-grade Im sure Ill pick up a few things here or there that can be applied to my own endeavors.   Thanks for sharing. 

I know this will be a bit of a rookie question but I wonder if you wouldn't mind explaining what I'm looking at. In your pictures there among the great woodwork are what appear to be nail or bolt heads. Is that a strictly aesthetic thing, or is there really some hardware holding this together? It almost looks like it might be just pencil dots....

Again thanks...

Those were brass rod the holes were drilled then the rod was press fit and the end was pinged as if there were clinch nails.

David B

Obviously those are the nail along the gunwales, but what about those tiny black dots inside the canoe in a repeating pattern of three?   Looks like maybe just pencil marks..   Ive also seen someone use wax for this, but thats a lot of holes to fill.

I did a canoe  and I used aida cloth (used in cross stitching) It comes in all kinds of weave , I found one I liked and I removed every other strand to get the desired seat weave pattern. Do a Google image search for  aida cloth. hope that helps

Thats a great idea!   Im sure my wife has some of that laying around somewhere.  Perhaps a little tea to die the color a bit more vintage.

Here is a photo of a canoe from Maintowoc at a scale of 1:12

David B

Wow thats great, though a little blurry.  Wonder how the builder got those nail-heads along the ribbing to come through, possible wax? Looks like the kind of detail Im going to be going for.  

What scale are you working in.  I know a few modelers and miniturist who have used bamboo as it can be drawn very fine. 

David B

1/12, I was thinking the very same thing. Possibly just weave it myself, but have not quite worked out how I would do that.   Setting one direction with CA at the ends, then weaving the other direction just the same?     Sounds good enough to give it a shot.   

Not sure if this the right place for this question, but seemed the closest.   Im planning a bashed canoe project and wondering if anyone has scratch built the below pictured woven seats or anything like it.   Looking for material inspiration and/or experience building such things.  

Thanks in advance.  

Calling all Seattle and/or PNW Shipwrights!

Where are your favorite tool stores, suppliers, shops in the area?   Other regional things/places of interest?

Thanks ahead of time...

Gorgeous work...  really no experience prior?   Gives me hope, ha.