Piet

Main Topmast Stays
 
There is a preventer stay as well as a main stay for the topmast. These were made in similar fashion to the mizzen topmast stay. There is a Violin block attached to the lower end. I made these from one piece of stock the same way I make the Sister blocks :
 

 

 

 
The stays are served where they go around the mast head and for a few scale feet below the mouse. A Collar is used to hold a lead block to the mast. The preventer stay block is fitted just below the foremast hounds. This would have been considerably easier to fit on the bench before I'd fitted the mast top :
 

 
Here are a few pics of the main topmast stay ready for fitting :
 

 

 

 

 
And some more of both stays fitted. The preventer stay goes on first :
 

 

 
The lead block for the main topmast stay has a collar which could be slipped over the fore mast head. This pic was taken well after I'd fitted the stay - the fore topmast and shrouds had been fitted when I took the pic :
 

 
The sister blocks and their tackle at the foot of the fore mast. Hooks are used to attach the lower blocks to the eyebolts in the deck :
 

 

 
  Danny

Thanks for the comments John, Shaun, Juergen and Ray .
 
Main Topmast Shrouds
 
Before fitting any of the shrouds the topmast Burton Pendants needed to be made and fitted. These are served all over  I turned the thimbles on the lathe :
 

 
The four sets of shrouds were made up and fitted the same as the mizzen topmast shrouds. Once again the foremost ones are served for their entire length and the others for the uppermost parts :
 

 

 

 
The Backstay is separate from the shrouds and terminates on the aft section of the channel :
 

 
A Sister Block is lashed between the two foremost shrouds. I made these from a single piece of stock in the same way I make "normal" blocks. After first cutting the basic shape on the table saw most of the finish shaping work was done with an Xacto knife :
 

 

 

 

 
  Danny

Oh, how I would have liked seeing the looks on the faces of the people in Mystic walking around with half a tree    What a great price to have John and a nice idea for it.
 
Actually, the O19 is not quite finished yet, still a few details to add like the dinghy cradle and your mine bun door hinges   Then the display board and case.
 
I need to finish the lobster smack first before I can het back to my father's sub.
 
Your Morgan is looking really nice.
 
Say hi to Diane for me and Cheers to you,

This morning I started out cementing all the eye bolts, pulley blocks and cleats to the new woodwork.  
 
Then I masked around the cabin roof so I can paint it.  After the paint had dried enough I removed the masking paper.  Hmmm, I should have waited with the painting till after I was done fiddling around that area,  And in the course of removing the cabin doors to replace the hinges with something better looking I made a divot in the fresh paint.  Needles to say I now have to mask it all off again and respray the roof.
 
Yeah, I was not happy with the way the door hinges looked and decided to make new ones, most likely from metal.  They are rather simple to make and look more authentic.
 
I then looked at how the kit wants you to make the two cleats on the toe rails at the bow.  They are supposed to be made from wood and I guess, with a little effort you can make a decent looking cleat.  However, I thought - - - why not make them from metal    Soooooh - - I drew up a sketch and cut some pieces out of brass sheet stock.  Lacking a milling machine or any other fancy tooling I made them out of three pieces.  two that are bent into a cleat shape and a flat base.  I then soldered them all together and filed them into presentable cleats.  Yeah, it's all hand filing, no machining except for drilling the bolt holes. 
 
All I need to do now is drill the bold holes in the base and fashion a few bolts.  Actually, they'll be CA cemented to the toe rails and the "bolts" are for show.  I think I'll leave them bare in polished brass.
 
I'm now ready to paint the trim, I thimk   Oh yeah, fabricating door hinges first 
 
I didn't take any more pics of the stained woodwork, you've seen them once and they haven't changed much.  Here are a few pics of the two hardware pieces I slaved over.
 

I made a bolt and a new nut to bolt the bowsprit to the Samson Post.  I could utilize the two washers I made previously.  The bolt shank is made from 0.8 mm brass rod and the head and nut from 0.8 mm brass sheet.  The head and nut will take a 2 mm wrench    I actually made two nuts but one served as the head, which I soldered to the  brass rod.  I also "cut threads" in the shank for the nut.  Sorry, I just get a cick out of doing this kinda stuff, forgive me for having a little fun
 

This shows the cleats I made as described above.  The brass is 0.8 mm thick but I filed a good portion away to make them thinner and less bulky.  They are just temporarily laid on top of the toe rails.  I still need to drill the bolt holes and polish them before I can cement them onto the toe rails. 
 
Cheers, 
 
 

Gudgeons and pintles are looking mighty fine there Dave !!
 
Cheers,

Build log part 73
 
 
update, on going sail rigging.....
 
hanging in the pre-rigged square sails is easier than I thought it would be. The main top sail is easier to brace, although the parrel tie to the mast ca`nt be loosened, but the top sail does not foul the shrouds, and the main top staysail fits neatly in with its aft-contour
 
 
Nils
 
 

 
most of the sail controlling lines (mounted sails) are attached and belayed
 
 

 
There are reef lines attached to the topsail yard, shall also add leech lines (these two features from Lennarth Peterson`s book are not shown in the Amati plan)
 
 

 
will add the shroud cleats and ratlines to the main mast shrouds next
 
 

 
as long as the bracelines have not been permanently rigged, the square sails can be swivelled over to both sides, for access to the shrouds
 
 

 
 

Right side finished. Still need some triming (?) and correcting when glue dried





Another little sweet detail. Why I didn't make this for aft side? Why all the generals are smart after battle?



There are real chances for ending of attorney strike next week. We'll see ... It will be great victory for rule of law, and a great shame for actual government ... four months whole judicial system was stopped at all, only because Constitution Act for people in lead political party does mean - nothing ... 21th century ... civilized world ... and islands still in middle age ...

Doing my researching about details which interests me, main resource is, of course, internet. Today I was looking for some detail on rail shown on C-plan which I can not find on photos. Then I started with youtube videos made by visitors, and - bingo !!! But, how to transfer it on picture?

Think think think ....

And idea comes

During play on phone on desired place, pause clip, and make screenshot !!! Android 4 comes with this feature, if not, there are some apps on Gstore with this function

And here are results:





Just what I am looking for my planned today work

So I guess she can now navigate....
 

 
Nice day outside for a few pics....
 

Elia, Mark, Bob, Nigel, Druxey, Carl, Denis, Remco and Mark P, Thank you all for your kind remarks. And to all who used the like button.
 
the last couple of days have been busy with some household stuff and snow removal getting water etc.
 
I have also been beavering away at the water pump.
 
Attempt one ended like this
 

 
attempt two ended like this
 

 
attempt three "this was the turning point" (apologies to the Dinsdale brothers)
 

 
I used the body of the pump to spot the position of the first hole, and because the holes in the pump body were indexed I was then able to use the same index to drill the four holes in the crank case for tapping the 00x90 threads for the mounting screws. I still might make them bolts instead of screws.
 
As each hole was drilled I tapped it straight away. used lots of lubricant and backed the tap out several times for cleaning the swarf.
 

 
using the jewelers saw to cut the slot in the screw.
 

 
assembled on the crank case I now will be able to make the linkage to the eccentric in the backside of the 60T gear the piston in the pump is 1/8th diameter.
 

 
Close up pictures can be brutally honest, I need to set up and make some adjustment on the thickness of the heads of the screws which are 1/16 in diameter, the size of the 00x90 threads are .047" max diameter, the tap drill is a number 62 Drill.
 
The inlet and outlet threads on the water pump are 6x40.
 
Michael
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

G'day All,
Just a quick update of the weeks progress.
After starting to fair the bulkheads, I quickly became unhappy of the large spacing between the bulkhead centers (approx. 2").
I also wasn't too keen on the 4mm wide thickness of them. My dodgey aim would place more nails beside the bulkheads than in them. So I cut some scrap ply and doubled the thickness to 8mm. Then I found some 8mm ply to cut some additional bulkheads. These were glued evenly between the existing.
The results so far. Before then after (& yes, I still have a couple to go).
Cheers, Scott.

Hi All,
I would just like to share an idea I had whilst fairing my skeleton. As I am new to this, I started to think of ideas for a curved sanding stick. I soon came to think of the endless sanding belts available in various sizes. So after purchasing some I rattled the scrap bin and found a thin strip of oak (25x5mm). I then cut it to a length longer than the belt flattened by about 5mm+.
Then rounded the square edges, and cleaned up till smooth. Then I flexed the strip into a bow and slipped the belt on.

The result was a nice gentle curve to the stick, and the inside working surface can flex till it reaches the strip. The example shown has only a slight curve and this could be increased with a slightly longer stick. I have found the belts to last a good bit of sanding without much loss of grit (far superior to normal glass paper) and can be changed easily without the need of glue. I just wish I had one of these years ago, I'm that happy with it!!
Cheers, Scott.

Hi All,
I have now finished the bow end braces and filler blocks. Started fairing the bow last night and quickly started to get a new respect for surfboard shapers. I soon realized I had left plenty of meat on my fillers and being solid pine they are taking a bit of sanding. 


I also got a delivery in the post today, my new bit of copper tube for the boiler. So I had a quick look around my shed at what materials I have to start the steam plant.


And here is the boiler tube against the deck.

And sitting in the upside down cabin assembly.

O.k enough of a break for me, back to fairing!
Cheers, Scott.
 

Hi All,
Quick update on building the frame. Got to the stage today where I thought I had completed all my cuts needed and was ready to start gluing. My bulkhead former was warped when unboxed and nothing I have done has completely removed it yet. This has been the case with both my A.L kits and I would say the warp has been formed by the shrinkwrap pulling the boards uneven when they pack'em. To combat this (& the fact my former is as floppy as a rag doll with all the extra cuts in it) I built a jig/clamp out of 1/2" MDF. Its an overkill i'm sure, but it was cheap and easy to make.

So I started with the blocks that rejoin the bulkhead former where I cut the channel for the propshaft. I also glued the two bulkheads that ran beside these blocks. Left it for an hour, and removed it from my jig, only to realise I hadn't cut my recesses for the servo's!! Bugger!! My first major mistake in only the first bit of gluing. I can only hope this is not a sign of things to come.
Here is the first bulkheads getting glued.


All but two bulkheads glued, and starting to add braces.

And here is how they line up with my rabbet (which isn't finished).

My glue should be dry on those last parts now, so I'm off to do some more.
Cheers, Scott.

G'day All,
 
Here I am starting my second log and my first planked hull. This time I am going for a challenge by trying my hand at fitting a working steam engine and radio gear into what is a static model kit. Yes, I may be crazy trying this on only my second build (& the first isn't finished yet either)!! My choice for this comes from building stand alone steam engines, and wanting to take it a step further by adding the building of a boat to house one. My choice of kit came from being happy with my first kit from A.L, & the fact I fell in love with the shape of the hull on this tug.

Some background on myself, as I am newish to the site and probably should introduce myself.
I am a Fitter and Turner by trade, and have little patience for working with wood (yes, I think it's funny too).
I live down here in the lovely state of Tasmania in Australia and this gives me access to a wonderful selection of specialty timbers native to this area. I am also blessed with a hand-me-down collection of hard to get timber such as Tasmanian Huon Pine, Black Heart Sassafras, King-Billy Pine and Myrtle. I look to incorporate some of these into the ship.
I am married, with two daughters, one aged 4 yrs and the other 5 months. This means I spend a lot of time with my trusty hound (the only other male in the house) building things in my shed.
I work full time as a maintenance fitter and have too many hobbies. This may mean I get distracted for periods of time, working on other projects and I apologize now if I leave you waiting for updates from time to time.
 
O.K, Time to get started!
Some pics of the pre-cut parts.



My first step was to start working on making room in the hull for the go-bits.
This was a headache as the finished size of this model is about 600 mm (24") long and I am trying to fit lots in it.
I decided to use the cutout for the prop-tube to make a cut along the keel to help remove the unwanted framing material later. Then the necessary bulkheads were marked and cut on a scroll saw to aid removing the centers later.
I will try to let the pics tell the story as I am slow at typing and struggle to explain things sometimes.


Any questions on how or why I am doing things the way I am will be explained the best I can, so feel free to ask.
Cheers for now, Scott.

Today was spent mostly studying the plans to figure out what the Brittania parts are that are staring at me. There is no idintification as to what they are. The plans show some drawings, but if you can't read the plans there are no reference to them. I think I have figured them out, but don't know for sure. Then I worked on completing the Dolphin Striker getting it ready to paint and hang. I'll do that tomorrow and run the Martingale Stays and Backstays to the Bowsprit and hopefully get a fair amount of rigging done to the Bowsprit before moving on to the masts.

Larry...interesting question...hmmm...how do I answer that????? Well, from a Nautical View, I don't have an answer yet. I am very fortunate to have a rough cut slab of I think Red Oak that was cut in the forming of the real Bowsprit on of the Real CW Morgan, given to me by a very gererous "Head Honcho" doing the restoration of the ship last year when I visited Mystic. It still has the bark on it, and I understand that it was a 250 year old tree knocked down during Hurricane Katrina from Mississippi. It is a beautiful piece of wood, however, it is about 4 feet long by almost 2 feet wide and weighs about 45 pounds. It is about 2" thick....I made an interesting sight hiking through Mystic Seaport with a 45 lb. piece of wood in my hands. I was cleared through the gates but sworn to secrecy as to who gave it to me, but I will say he had the power to do so. I am thinking I'm going to rough finish it, and use some Dolphins I made from clay to mount My Constitution and the Morgan to it. Been thinking for a year about it, and still not sure how to use it. I'll photograph it tomorrow and post it for suggestions. Thanks for asking.

Yup, them chainplates are looking mighty fine John!
 
Cheers,

Looking very nice Popeye and glad things worked out to your liking.
 
Cheers,

Looking very nice Popeye and glad things worked out to your liking.
 
Cheers,

Hang in there Jesse, we are all rooting for you.
 
Cheers,

Hey babe, you seem to be doing alright by yourself!  Gudgeons and pintles are easy stuff, ratlines are difficult  
 
Cheers, 

Well, today I spent all day in the shipyard....what a concept. I think this is the first full day in almost a year, so now it's back to work before spring and our next trip, so I'm going to try and get a lot done. I finished the Port side Chain Plates and it is definitely one of those situations where practice makes perfect, the more of them I made the better they got..I just hope my first ones aren't too bad, and as time permits, I'll probably address the problems, but not right now. Need to do a little touch up paint yet, but it's presentable. I have to think about where I'm going from here next...hmmm

gee......who would you have had in mind.......David Hasselhoff?     ohhhhh,  right.......he was known for brawn....not brains!! 
 
soooooo.......anyway......tinkering still going on.....cleaned up the nasty rod ends on the reels and touched them up.   added some strip stock to the top edge of the pilot house,  to stiffen the side walls up.   I took a look at the Tree Boat's hull frame to get an idea where the bulkheads are on the Andrea Gail.  the area of interest is between the third and fourth bulkhead.......if I remember,  it's roughly 51 mm.
 

 
from this,  the template was made.  the fourth bulkhead is the fore deck bulkhead on the A.G...since the top rub rail follows along the main deck line, I used it as a reference.   staying within the increment,  I was able to drill the pilot holes.......then a size larger.
 

 
the next size after that put the holes close to the size of the porthole inserts.   19/64ths......I used a rat tail file to enlarge them the rest of the way.
 

 

 
it went well........only one very........very tiny chunk occurred!   I figure paint will take care of it     the fore deck railings were adjusted and cemented.......still need to be trimmed
 

 
I drilled the holes for the aft section of the trawl rig.......but it made the rig unstable....bother!   the Billing's kit doesn't have the portholes....figured I'd put 'em in. 
 

 
small issue with the exhaust fan..........working to get it resolved 
 
 
 

I have to remind myself, this is a Mayflower build log.... sorry, if I got a little distracted with the stupid shop sign.
 
So, back to the Mayflower....
 
Ratlines all tied, now she needs a rudder....
 

 
I do wish Piet would come over and create these pintles and gudgeons for me...