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About chevygrunt

  • Birthday 05/15/1979

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  1. Hi, Having a small amount of lapping experience. I would be careful with using a grinding/lapping compound between the valves and the brass. As I understand it, certain types of lapping use a soft and hard material. The soft material is the lapping tool and the harder material the work piece. When the compound is applied it beds into the softer material and forms a fine abrasive surface which then works to remove material from the work piece. In your application, I would hate to see the brass become embedded with grit which could be difficult to remove after seating the valves. Most modern day car heads have hardened seats, so it isn't such an issue. I am not an expert in this and would happily be corrected. An excellent job by the way. As a machinist, I can fully appreciate what you have achieved! Well done!! Cheers, Scott.
  2. That wasn't the tack hammer you used for the brads in the top left corner of the photo, was it?
  3. Hi, I would certainly recommend using a mask when working with MDF. It's not really the wood particles that is the nasty one here. It's the glue! Having worked as a maintenance worker in a former MDF manufacturing plant. I know that the glue they use contained formaldehyde and some say it is released when working with the material. I can remember that the area of the plant where the panels were pressed was particularly nasty and I was glad I was based on the other side of the plant. The only other downfall I find with MDF is that it will swell terribly with moisture, including paints, without proper sealing Cheers, Scott
  4. Hi, What a lovely Tug you have built! The standards have just been raised and I hope I can achieve something half as good as yours(I'm building a little Steam Tug named "Sanson"). Your boiler is quite interesting and a V6 says it all. Please remember all the joy she has given, and really consider rebuilding the boiler in the future. Cheer, Scott.
  5. Thanks for your tip Yanos. I have been very careful to keep all my cuts running the same way. It is good advice though and applies to more types of wood than just Huon. Cheers, Scott.
  6. Hi All, I have just made a post in my build log that covers how I stripped some planks for my Tug. I will copy it in here as it may be useful. O.K, I experimented with stripping down the Huon pine. I started with a block about 2" sq and slightly longer than the hull. After some careful setup with my bandsaw (all the guides adjusted and a good clean) and a new 14tpi blade fitted. I stripped two strips 12mm wide, then the remainder 6mm wide. Then I fitted a low fence to my saw so I could lower my top guide to minimal distance above the work piece. After testing the thickness it was cutting on some scrap, I preceded to cut the 12mm down to 1.8mm thick strips. I was impressed with the way the Huon cut. For those unfamiliar with this wood, it is a very slow growing timber found only in certain parts of Tasmania. It is reputed to be the best wood for wooden boat making worldwide and Tasmania has a quite a history for making wooden boats from this timber. In those days they pillaged the forests for it and now days it cannot be logged and only a limited number of people are allowed to recover non-growing timber for specialty woodworkers and craftsmen. It is also reputed to not rot and has a natural ability to take bends very nicely. I am just lucky to have inherited a nice stash from an uncle who had a keen eye for recycling wood. I chose to strip to 1.8mm wide in the hope that I may be able to pull off a single layer hull. If not, I have the Walnut veneer to use as a second layer or I have tried stripping down to 1mm successfully and could possibly do two layers in the Huon. Here is a pic of the Huon strips so far. And of the saw setup. This is a very basic overview of how I did it, but the main thing is, I managed to achieve very satisfactory results without the need for thicknessing or planing. Also my saw is only a very cheap unit, so don't think you need an expensive machine to get good results. It is more in the careful setup and blade choice (new blade if possible). Here is a pic of some Myrtle planks that were stripped the same and only needed a light sand after planking. Hope this gives people more confidence to try their own. Cheers, Scott.
  7. Hi, I am just starting to wonder if that is why I have so many unfinished models sitting around. I may just not want to say goodbye your finished. Unfortunately, I don't think that's the reason. I just have a hard time telling myself its good enough to call done. I find it very rare that I start a model that keeps me interested to the end and that I'm happy with all the way. Most of the time I make small mistakes that I am not happy with and the model gets put aside till I forget about them. I quite often find myself doing a project just so I can learn a certain skill, then when past the step learnt the project goes to the side as my enthusiasm wanes. My current project is a combination of things I have wanted to make for years and I am determined to finish this one. So I may feel some of this grief thingy at the end of this one. Then I will just find another project or skill to learn. Cheers, Scott.

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